Search Results (5)

In a coastal engineering project, hydrodynamic models are used to study wave transformations and impacts on structures, while morphodynamic models are applied to calculate the response and evolution of sedimentary beaches. Conventionally, laboratory experiments and numerical modeling have been called to investigate beach changes, particularly those resulting in the formation of an embayed beach. The former is undertaken in a wave basin, necessitating a huge outdoor facility to fit a project with large dimensions, numerous instrumentations, and manpower, while the latter is performed by powerful numerical models on a desktop, requiring only the advent of computing power and professional skills. Conventionally, both approaches have successfully achieved the expected outcome, though differing in cost and time frame. On the contrary, an efficient empirical geomorphic model for headland-bay beaches has been available since 1989 for assessing the planform stability of a crenulated beach in static equilibrium. The model can readily produce a graphic display of the static bay shape aided by a supporting software within a shorter time frame (in a couple of minutes), instead of in hours or days in laboratory tests and numerical modeling. Several practical examples drawn by the software MeePaSoL for the empirical model are presented to complement the results of a morphodynamic model in a wave basin, as well as to guide the modeler to terminate the programming when equilibrium is reached. We believe this alternative approach could be helpful for the experimentalists and numerical modelers on large engineering projects associated with shoreline beach evolution and shore protection, especially for time-saving and reducing manpower and cost. Full article

Coastal scientists and engineers are constantly trying to quantify the ideal bay shape using mathematical formulas. Since the 1980s, a large number of achievements have been accomplished and various empirical models have been obtained. This article is based on the theory of equilibrium coastal development in the headland–bay and takes an artificial beach forming part of Rizhao Port’s “Return to Sea” project in Northern China as an example to explore the selection of beach protection schemes. The influence of different forms of plan layout on the shape of the equilibrium shoreline is compared, and the scheme is further validated using physical model testing methods. The following results are obtained: (1) a suitable protection scheme and its corresponding beach equilibrium shoreline shape are recommended, (2) a reasonable maintenance cycle is proposed, and (3) after 27 months of implementation of the artificial beach, the monitored sediment loss is less than 10% of the total amount, meeting the design purpose. This confirms the effectiveness of the research results in artificial beach protection engineering and equilibrium shoreline design, achieving good economic, social, and ecological environmental benefits, and with broad prospects for promotion and application. The results can also provide reference and guidance for subsequent coastal engineering evaluation, improvement, and construction. Full article

Detached breakwaters are widely used for shore protection. The planforms of tombolos or salients behind structures have also been used to provide a recreational and sustainable coastal environment. In this study, the comprehensive XBeach model was used to numerically simulate the evolution of wave transformation, nearshore current, and morphological changes in tombolo planforms behind detached breakwaters. Given various gap spacings between consecutive breakwaters, the numerical results indicated that both equilibrium bay-shaped shorelines and bottom profiles form in the lee of detached breakwaters after long-term persistent wave action. These equilibrium shorelines and bottom profiles were verified using well-known empirical formulas. Post-wave-action retreat displacement to the initial shoreline was analyzed, and an empirical relationship was proposed for predicting the equilibrium bay-shaped shoreline. By associating the empirical formula with a parabolic bay-shape equation, some actual beaches were evaluated to validate the predictions of equilibrium shorelines behind detached breakwaters. In conclusion, to appropriately plan the layouts of breakwaters, bay-shaped shorelines of tombolo planforms in the lee of detached breakwaters can be predicted at the design stage by using the proposed relationship. Full article

For crenulate-shaped bays, the coastal outline assumes a specific shape related to the predominant waves in the area: it generally consists of a tangential zone downcoast and a curved portion upcoast. Many coastal engineers have attempted to derive an expression of the headland bay shapes that emerge when a full equilibrium is reached (stable or dynamic). However, even though models for static equilibrium bays exist, they are merely of an empirical kind, lacking further insight on relationships between incident wave characteristics and beach shape. In addition, it is commonly believed that shoreline profiles tend to follow wave fronts, but this has been never fully verified. In this paper, we investigate a possible correlation between static equilibrium profiles and wave front shapes. Numerical experiments have been performed using the MIKE 21 Boussinesq Wave module, and the generated wave fronts have been compared to the hyperbolic-tangent equilibrium profile. A thoughtful analysis of results revealed that a single-headland equilibrium profile is merely the wave front translated perpendicularly to the wave direction at the headland tip, without any influence of wave period or in wave direction. A new function called the “wave-front-bay-shape equation” has been obtained, and the application and validation of this formula to the case-study bay of the Bagnoli coast (south-west of Italy) is described in the paper. Full article

Among the various causes of coastal erosion, the installation of offshore breakwaters is considered the main cause that influences the most serious changes in shorelines. However, without a proper means for predicting such terrain changes, countries and regions continue to suffer from the aftermath of development projects on coastal land. It has been confirmed that the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) can accurately predict shoreline changes under the wave climate diffracted as a result of such development projects. This study developed a shoreline change model that has enhanced the previous shoreline change models by applying PBSE to shoreline changes into bay-shaped features. As an analytical comparison with the second term of the GENESIS model, which is an existing and well-known shoreline change model, a similar beach erosion width was obtained for a small beach slope. However, as the beach slope became larger, the result became smaller than that of the GENESIS model. The validity of the model was verified by applying it to satellite images that demonstrated the occurrence of shoreline changes caused by breakwaters for seaports on the eastern coast of Korea; Wonpyeong beach, Yeongrang beach, and Wolcheon beach. As a result, each studied site converged on the static equilibrium planform within several years. Simultaneously, the model enabled the coastal management of the arrangement of seaports to evaluate how the construction of structures causes serious shoreline changes by creating changes to wavefields. Full article