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Keywords = bermslope

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15 pages, 20467 KiB  
Article
Process-Based Model Prediction of Coastal Dune Erosion through Parametric Calibration
by Hyeok Jin, Kideok Do, Sungwon Shin and Daniel Cox
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(6), 635; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9060635 - 7 Jun 2021
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 3415
Abstract
Coastal dunes are important morphological features for both ecosystems and coastal hazard mitigation. Because understanding and predicting dune erosion phenomena is very important, various numerical models have been developed to improve the accuracy. In the present study, a process-based model (XBeachX) was tested [...] Read more.
Coastal dunes are important morphological features for both ecosystems and coastal hazard mitigation. Because understanding and predicting dune erosion phenomena is very important, various numerical models have been developed to improve the accuracy. In the present study, a process-based model (XBeachX) was tested and calibrated to improve the accuracy of the simulation of dune erosion from a storm event by adjusting the coefficients in the model and comparing it with the large-scale experimental data. The breaker slope coefficient was calibrated to predict cross-shore wave transformation more accurately. To improve the prediction of the dune erosion profile, the coefficients related to skewness and asymmetry were adjusted. Moreover, the bermslope coefficient was calibrated to improve the simulation performance of the bermslope near the dune face. Model performance was assessed based on the model-data comparisons. The calibrated XBeachX successfully predicted wave transformation and dune erosion phenomena. In addition, the results obtained from other two similar experiments on dune erosion with the same calibrated set matched well with the observed wave and profile data. However, the prediction of underwater sand bar evolution remains a challenge. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue The Coastal Response Modeling)
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19 pages, 8763 KiB  
Article
Simulating Destructive and Constructive Morphodynamic Processes in Steep Beaches
by Katerina Kombiadou, Susana Costas and Dano Roelvink
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2021, 9(1), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9010086 - 15 Jan 2021
Cited by 19 | Viewed by 5124
Abstract
Short-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective [...] Read more.
Short-term beach morphodynamics are typically modelled solely through storm-induced erosion, disregarding post-storm recovery. Yet, the full cycle of beach profile response is critical to simulating and understanding morphodynamics over longer temporal scales. The XBeach model is calibrated using topographic profiles from a reflective beach (Faro Beach, in S. Portugal) during and after the incidence of a fierce storm (Emma) that impacted the area in early 2018. Recovery in all three profiles showed rapid steepening of the beachface and significant recovery of eroded volumes (68–92%) within 45 days after the storm, while berm heights reached 4.5–5 m. Two calibration parameters were used (facua and bermslope), considering two sets of values, one for erosive (Hm0 ≥ 3 m) and one for accretive (Hm0 < 3 m) conditions. A correction of the runup height underestimation by the model in surfbeat mode was necessary to reproduce the measured berm elevation and morphology during recovery. Simulated profiles effectively capture storm erosion, but also berm growth and gradual recovery of the profiles, showing good skill in all three profiles and recovery phases. These experiments will be the basis to formulate event-scale simulations using schematized wave forcing that will allow to calibrate the model for longer-term changes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Monitoring and Modelling of Coastal Environment)
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