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12 January 2023

Current Trends for Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Mill.) Crops and Products with Emphasis on Essential Oil Quality

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1
Department of Botany, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca, Calea Mănăștur Street No. 3-5, 400372 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
2
Department of Genetics and Plant Breeding, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca, Calea Mănăștur Street No. 3-5, 400372 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
3
Department of Crop Technologies, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca, Calea Mănăștur Street No. 3-5, 400372 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
4
Department of Engineering and Environmental Protection, Faculty of Agriculture, University of Agricultural Sciences and Veterinary Medicine of Cluj-Napoca, Calea Mănăștur Street No. 3-5, 400372 Cluj-Napoca, Romania
This article belongs to the Collection Essential Oils of Plants (Chemical Composition, Variation and Properties)

Abstract

Lavender is in the research spotlight due to its increasing economic importance, while market demand is expected to continue to grow. Among the hundreds of essential-oil-bearing plants, Lavandula angustifolia Mill. remains one of the most valuable. This paper explores the lavender chain timeline from crop to products, examining the expanding knowledge on the characteristics, phytochemical profile and functional potential of lavender that could lead to new products and uses. Lavender crops can be expanded without competing for productive land, instead using marginal, contaminated or unproductive land. A novel cultivation trend proposes leveraging agri-background biodiversity, arbuscular mycorrhiza and the natural enemies of pests for healthy crops. Together with breeding efforts targeting highly performant genotypes with complex volatile profiles coupled with resistance to specific biotic (particularly Phytoplasma) and abiotic (salt, heavy metals) stressors, industry could have a steady supply of high-quality raw material. Besides the expansion of the uses of essential oil in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, food and environmental and agri-applications, novel channels have appeared for the use of the solid by-product, which is rich in polyphenols and polysaccharides; these channels have the potential to create additional streams of value. The stabilization and optimization of techno-functional delivery systems through the encapsulation of essential oil can extend shelf-life and enhance biological activity efficiency.

1. Introduction

The market for medicinal and aromatic plants (MAPs) is growing because of the increasing demand for specialty materials derived from them that have expanding and diverse uses [1]. Out of all the specialty materials derived from MAPs, the essential oils are some of the most valuable. It is estimated that around 3000 essential oils are known today, but only around 150 have commercial importance. It is difficult to know the production worldwide, but available data suggest that essential oil crops worldwide cover more than half of million hectares. The European market is experiencing an increasing trend in production, because leading fragrance and flavoring manufacturers are located here. Under these conditions, many European countries have increased their production [2]. Lavender is one of the most valuable plants from the range of MAPs with commercial importance, and it is cultivated for industrial purposes. The essential oil extracted from lavender is the most sought-after product obtained from lavender crop because it is further incorporated in a broad range of products [3]. From the species and hybrids of the genus Lavandula, the essential oils obtained account for about 1500 tons annually [4]. Out of this, the worldwide production of true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia Mill.) essential oil is estimated at 300–500 tons per year [5]. The quantity of lavender essential oil found in trade each year is difficult to assess, given that official figures do not account for the amount of adulteration or for synthetic lavender essential oil on the market [6]. France was among the original countries that cultivated lavender, and among the first exporters of lavender essential oil for the worldwide cosmetic industry [7]. The leading lavender production countries are Bulgaria and France, followed by other countries such as Russia, Ukraine, Moldova, Romania, Hungary, Poland, Italy, Spain, Turkey, Morocco, United Kingdom, United States, Australia, South Africa and China [8]. Lavender plantations, both inside and outside Europe, have increased in number recently [9]. The increasing demand over the last few years has been fueled by consumer behavior. MAPs improve life quality and well-being and offer a positive experience associated with their health-promoting properties [10]. A survey in Romania showed that knowledgeable consumers of MAPs in general exhibit a preference for naturally derived products that have ecological certification [11], reflecting increasing health and environmental awareness.
Although the cultivation of lavender has become a tradition in many parts of Europe and worldwide [7], the recent literature lacks a general overview over the entire production chain of lavender from crop to products. Both opportunities and challenges have arisen recently that affect growers and the processing sector alike [3].
Traditionally, the trajectory of lavender from crop to product was simple. The crop was harvested and send for distillation. The farmer profited from selling the flowering tops, and the processer from selling only the essential oil obtained therefrom, according to its quality; sometimes one entity was involved in both activities. However, this functioned on a single line of operation and dealt with a single raw material, leading to the obtainment of a single product—the essential oil, which had various further destinations of use. The issue with this approach is that it misses modern opportunities for creating additional streams of value and income. In order to maximize the beneficial outcomes, both lavender growers and the processing sector must consider complementary and secondary utilization options to make full use of the market opportunities. Literature abounds in various interesting findings, but little is yet known about when these could become implementable, or how they might connect with current consumer trends. For this reason, this review summarizes the current state of knowledge by bridging long-known cultivation practices and traditional uses with novel ones. Challenges related to emerging pests, cultivation technologies and perspectives on quality standards, as well as the factors influencing them, have been researched.
The aim of this study was to provide an overview on the latest trends for lavender crops and products, with emphasis on essential oil quality, since essential oil is economically the most important product obtained from lavender at this time. Two objectives were defined: (1) reviewing the state of the art in lavender crops and products, with emphasis on emerging trends; (2) identifying the gaps in knowledge regarding the optimization of lavender crops and products and the increasing of opportunities.

2. Origin, Botany and Phytochemistry of the Genus Lavandula

The genus Lavandula belongs to the family Lamiaceae. This is an economically important botanic family that comprises many herbs and shrubs known for their medicinal or culinary use and cultivated worldwide [12,13,14,15]. The flowers are hermaphrodite, with characteristic bi-labiate morphology and nectaries that attract bees. The plants present glandular trichomes over the aerial organs [13,16], and these can havegreater abundance on certain plant parts, depending on the species (Figure 1). These epidermal structures contain aromatic volatile oils [13]. The morphology, localization and density of these structures are distinctive features among the species of this botanic family [17]. Their density, frequency and size influence the essential oil obtained [18]. Characteristic to this family are also different glycosides of taxonomic significance [6].
Figure 1. Aspects of Lavandula angustifolia ‘Sevtopolis’, one of the frequently cultivated genotypes in Eastern Europe: (a) inflorescence; (b) glandular trichomes located in the calyx grooves and branched trichomes with protective role, magnified 160×; (c) microscopic sideview of a glandular trichome and branched protective trichomes in the background, magnified 400× (original photos by Ioana C., 2022).
The genus Lavandula comprises 39 species, 79 infraspecific taxa and a number of hybrids classified into 3 subgenera and 8 sections [19]. There are also about 400 registered cultivars [20]. The genus occurs naturally from the North Atlantic islands to India [19]. Within the genus, the -species most commonly cultivated are L. angustifolia (lavender or true lavender), L. latifolia Medik. (spike lavender), L. stoechas L. (Spanish lavender) and L. × intermedia Emeric ex Loisel. (lavandin). The latter is a sterile hybrid obtained from the crossing of L. angustifolia × L. latifolia [21]. For essential oil production, the most cultivated genotypes are L. angustifolia and L. × intermedia [7,22], but lavender oil (of L. angustifolia) is marketed at a price around 3–5 times higher than lavandin oil, as it is considered of higher quality [23]. The plants of the genus Lavandula are rich in phenolic compounds, with 8 anthocyanins and 19 flavones identified, and the essential composition varies across the species of the genus [6], with more than 300 terpenes (mono- and sesquiterpenes) accounted for [24].
L. angustifolia, also known as lavender, is native to the mountainous regions of the Mediterranean from Spain to France and Italy, where it grows generally at altitudes over 1500 m. There are two subspecies: ssp. angustifolia, native to the French and Italian Alps, and ssp. pyrenaica, from the Pyrenees [19]. However, some notable differences have been reported between the essential oil composition of these subspecies, with wild ssp. pyrenaica considered unacceptable for normal commercial grade lavender oil [6], and ssp. angustifolia being the most economically important out of the two - [25]. The mountain origin of this species makes it - hardy in cultivation. It grows as a shrub, reaching 50 cm in width, flowering from the middle of June to July [7]. This species is distinguished by 3–9 flowered cymes, nutlets with a basal scar, bilobed stigma and a corolla tube twice the length of the calyx. The leaves are simple and entire [7,19]. Like many members of Lamiaceae family, plants of this species also present capitate and peltate trichomes on the aerial organs [26], but in lavender, these reach highest abundance on flower calyx (Figure 1) [26,27,28]. The trichome density can vary to a certain degree between cultivars and due to nutritive supply [29]. The constituents of essential oils from aromatic plants are considered secondary metabolites [17], and have various roles in the life of plant, acting as attractive agents for pollinators, signaling between plants and intervening in some defense mechanisms against biotic and abiotic stressors [22]. The main components of the essential oils of the commercial genotypes of lavender are linalool and linalyl acetate (in amounts exceeding 20% each) [6].

5. Overview on the Importance and Emerging Uses of L. angustifolia

Alongside traditional uses, there have emerged in recent years many novel ones. Some may currently occupy only a niche, but could increase in importance in the decades to come. Particularly attractive are secondary uses, which enable lavender growers or the processing industry to make the best use of crops, raw materials and by-products. Growers could explore secondary utilization options to increase or supplement their incomes. In addition, industry actors could employ novel uses to monetize the resulting by-products, which would be in line with the circular economy concept of ‘zero waste’.
Due to the increasing number of uses of lavender and the ongoing search to optimize both their cultivation and their applications, choosing the right genotype for target purposes leads to best outcomes. Some cultivars with recommended uses are presented in Table 2.
Table 2. Some L. angustifolia cultivars suitable for different uses [107].
Many cultivars have been created for essential oil production. Literature indicates that although ‘Maillette’ remains the French standard for the essential oil quality obtained, there are a few cultivars that come close to it: ‘Compacta’, ‘Irene Doyle’ and ‘Twickel Purple’ [85]. Others have been found to be particularly suitable for certain uses: the cultivar ‘Buena Vista’ has been indicated as suitable for pot-pourri, and ‘Blue Mountain’ for hedges. Some cultivars created are highly ornamental and display specific aesthetic characteristics, such as white flowers (‘Celestial Star’), soft lavender-pink tones (‘Hidcote Pink’), vibrant violet (‘Budakalászi’) or dark flowers (‘Hidcote Blue’) [7]. Lavender pallets of colors are well-documented to inspire horticulturists in finding the best ones for their needs. In addition, there are indications for those best adapted to certain conditions, such as those cultivars able to withstand cold winters, like ‘Maillette’, ‘Royal Velvet’, ‘Imperial Gem’, ‘Folgate’ and ‘Buena Vista’ [39].
Due to superior volatile profile, L. angustifolia is used preponderantly in perfumery and cosmetic industries, while other species of the genus with harsher volatile profiles that are richer in camphor find non-perfumery destinations of use [21,108]. While choosing the right cultivar for the products intended to be obtained is important for lavender famers in order to best monetize their raw material production, recent literature suggests that farmers could also consider novel utilization options for their crops. This could be approached both for a complementary income, or if proven feasible, by transitioning towards more highly advantageous destination of use. However, traditional approaches for the utilization of lavender crops, such as essential oil production, remain the market backbone due to the high demand.
The trajectory of lavender from crop to products is summarized in Figure 3.
Figure 3. Lavender from crop to products with an overview on the main uses as they are related to human senses, activities and favorable outcomes (original infographic by Ioana C.).

5.1. Food and Beverages

This category of uses is both new and old. The use of lavender tea is old, but there are more recent uses. In food industry and cuisine, lavender buds or essential oils can be used as flavoring agents. For this purpose, English origin is preferred because has a milder and more pleasant taste. The following food products can be flavored with lavender: candies, chewing gum, condiment blends (chutney, salsa), cooking spices, confectionary, jams and jellies and beverages, such as tea blends, hot chocolate, coffee, lemonade and cocktails. Creative kitchen uses suggested by cookbooks involve the use of lavender for artisanal pizza, ice-cream and home-cooked chicken recipes. Its antimicrobial properties can be employed to prevent food spoilage or incorporated in packages. Lavender essential oil has been tested for meat preservation, but also against a wide range of food-borne pathogens in general [109]. It has been proposed that phenolic extracts from solid waste resulting as a by-product of essential oils extraction could find wide uses in the food industry due to their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. These can range from food additives to packaging [110]. Lavender-processing by-products rich in polyphenols could be used in the baking industry. Bread with the addition of 2.5% lavender by-product showed higher loaf volume and increased shelf life and consumer acceptability [111]. Active food packaging could be developed using lavender essential oil. Films of starch fulcellaran and gelatin loaded with lavender essential oil at concentrations of 2–6% showed antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, while some physical properties of the films were also enhanced [112].

5.2. Wellness and Cosmetics

This category of uses is an important one from the economic point of view [4]. Driven by the desire for a healthier lifestyle, the use of natural ingredients in cosmetics is in high market demand.
Fragrant lavender oil and flowers are used in aromatherapy, detergents, massage oils, perfumes and personal hygiene products, such as shampoo and soap [113]. Aromatherapy is considered effective due to the psychological effects of fragrance as well as the physiological effects of the compounds, which act through limbic system (amygdala and hippocampus) [21]. For aromatherapy, the essential oil is administered through vaporization or direct application on the body in small quantities [109]. Out of the all cultivated lavender species, L. angustifolia is the one preferred for perfumery as well as cosmetics [21]. A recent study shows that the biomass resulting as a by-product of essential oil extraction could be used as a source of polysaccharides and incorporated in cosmetic products [114]. Steam distillation produces hydrolats as a by-product, which have a volatile organic compound content between 9–97 mg/100 mL and shows low antimicrobial activity [115]. Although it lacks the linalyl acetate found in essential oil, it presents linalool, α-terpineol and coumarin, among other constituents [116]. This lavender hydrolat presents a floral–herbal scent and is commonly known as ‘lavender water’ and sold for personal and home use. The possible utilization options for lavender water have been insufficiently explored, and since it is a by-product obtained in abundance, new uses could be highly attractive for the processing sector.

5.3. Medicinal Uses and Pharmaceutical Potential

This category of uses has significant potential for the development of novel products in the years to come, as the knowledge of their properties and effects is expanding.
Traditional medicinal uses for lavender include sleeping aids based on the calming effect of lavender tea and oils, as well as treatments for wounds, lice infestation, migraines, panic attacks and some heart problems, cold, bites, cramps and congestion [109]. Some traditional uses based on previous empirical knowledge were later confirmed with various degrees of confidence through scientific methods [21]. Pharmacotherapy screening on the properties of lavender found indications for their use in relation to anxiety, with strong evidence. Several other indications of use, although with only moderate evidence, were hypnotic/sleep aid, mitigation of perineal discomfort following childbirth, spasmolytic and antibiotic treatments and cancer treatment based on phase I human trials (lavender constituent perillyl alcohol) [113]. Several studies on cell lines revealed cytotoxic effects on cancer cells of specific lavender compounds or essential oils: breast cancer cells, leukemia cells, melanoma cells [117], colon cancer cells and ovary cancer cells [71].
Aside from the actions on the central nervous system, lavender was shown to have an antispasmodic effect on both uterine and intestinal smooth muscle, ergogenic effects in sports training [21] and benefits for the circulatory system [118].
There is evidence for the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of lavender essential oil [4]. Antimicrobial activity was documented for some common pathogens, such as: Staphylococcus aureus Rosenbach, Streptococcus pyogenes Rosenbach, Escherichia coli Mig., Enterococcus faecalis (Andrewes and Horder) Schleifer and Kilpper-Bälz [21], Candida albicans (C.-P. Robin) Berkhout, Pseudomonas aeruginosa (Schröter) Migula, Bacillus subtilis (Ehrenberg) Cohn, Listeria monocytogenes (E. Murray et al.) Pirie, Salmonella sp., Enterobacter sp., Klebsiella sp., etc. Results indicated that lavender oil might be useful as a prophylactic or for topical application in surface infections but not for deep-seated infections, with greater effectiveness against Gram-positive than against Gram-negative bacteria [118].
Despite promising results obtained regarding biologic activity, there are some hindrances in making the next step towards developing therapies. One of them is the lack of standardization for the dosages and experimental set-up from scientific literature, which makes it difficult to reach a consensus regarding optimal concentrations.
In pharmaceutics, essential oils are included in different dosage forms, such as capsules, creams, syrups, suppositories, ointments and aerosols. In the medical field, there is potential for the use of lavender essential oil as a disinfectant for equipment and medical surfaces, or as aerosols in waiting rooms or operating blocks to limit air-borne contamination [109].
One study shows that through fermentative or enzymatic processes involving microorganisms (especially filamentous fungi), the solid by-product fraction resulting from essential oil extraction could be used in the production of various bio-active compounds, such as antimicrobials, antioxidants and various bioproducts with either cosmetic and pharmaceutical activities, opening up novel possibilities for white biotechnology applications [119].
Proof-of-concepts from literature in regard to the possibilities for using by-products for valuable compounds are highly attractive. However, processing these products requires highly specialized knowledge and equipment. When transitioning towards implementation, some foreseeable challenges might arise. There would be a need for regional centers where these could be sent or collected, considering that sending by-products over large distances might not be financially attractive. The existence of a processing center might also depend on the number of lavender crops and farms in the area. Perhaps the best way would be for centers where the plant material was distillated to be equipped to also immediately further process, pack and store the by-products. Based on positive experimental data, these technologies should become available to be transferred towards market.

5.4. Environment, Agri-Applications and Niche Uses

This category of uses is not currently as important as the ones above, but is certainly a dynamic one and full of potential. Some uses from this category also emerge in response to certain needs from other sectors. A certain degree of flexibility across the crop-to-products chain might confer stability to the volatility of the demand for certain goods. Therefore, one can consider this category of uses as a potentially transitional one, complementary to the purely traditional utilization options at this point in time. However, in the coming years, it could become the norm across the entire chain due to increasing market opportunities.
The ornamental use of lavender is highly prized by the wide public. In landscaping, lavenders can be used for borders, hedges, rockery, knot gardens or in pots. Lavender can be mixed with other drought-tolerant plants that originate from dry regions of Mediterranean or Central Asia. Some suggestions for companion plants for lavender are: Achillea millefolium L., Arabis sp., Armeria maritima (Mill.) Willd., Artemisia sp., Buxus microphylla Siebold & Zucc. cv. ‘Winter Gem’, Centranthus ruber (L.) DC., Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, Gaillardia × grandiflora hort., Hypericum olympicum L., Kniphofia uvaria M., Oenothera sp., Penstemon cv. ‘Firebird’ and Rudbeckia hirta L. A highly successful combination is lavender and antique roses, with attention to cultivars, since modern roses do not tolerate drought very well [39].
Lavender farms have a first-rate opportunity to use their crops to earn additional income or create goods for complementary income [9]. As it is a melliferous plant, the quantity of honey obtained from lavender is about 50–100 kg/ha [120]. The distinguishable marker of L. angustifolia honey is lower phenylacetaldehyde and higher heptanoic acid content [121].
Lavender could also be integrated in the strategic marketing of rural tourism destinations to contribute to attracting additional service-based income to sustain rural communities by diversifying income-generating activities in lavender farms. A study from the Isparta province of Turkey, an important cultivation area for lavender and lavandin, revealed that promotion through social media and influencers were important in attracting tourists during the two-month interval in the summer when crops were in bloom [122]. Rural tourism-building around lavender crops and products opens opportunities for partnerships with small businesses to provide locally obtained goods derived from locally sourced lavender that could contribute to the economic stability of the families and communities that depend on lavender.
Crafts present interesting utilization options that do not require costly equipment and investments, nor highly trained operators. In addition, crafts marketing could be joined with rural tourism to create short value chains, or considered as standalone complementary utilization option. Among the potential uses, such as fresh cut flowers, dried buds and wreaths are the most common [107]. Sachets filled with lavender flowers for their soporific properties to be placed under the pillow [113] or crafts for other home uses could be easily created on the farm and sold locally.
The environmental application is related to the phytoremediation capacity of lavender on heavy metals contaminated soil. Study shows that lavender is a hyperaccumulator of Pb and an accumulator of Cd and Zn. Although the biomass can be adversely affected by soil pollution, the essential oil obtained can still meet the market standards and is not contaminated [123]. As for their accumulation, this can vary by species. While some lavenders contained higher levels of heavy metals accumulated in their leaves, L. angustifolia accumulated them in roots and stems [124]. Lavender could be employed for the use of contaminated soil of otherwise unproductive, polluted land. However, the resulting contaminated biomass poses further environmental issues, such as storage and potential leaching of heavy metals into the environment. The possibilities for using the resulting solid by-products is limited due to contamination. Therefore, secondary utilization options for the resulting contaminated biomass should be sought that will in turn make lavender cultivation on heavy metal contaminated soils more attractive. The influence of heavy metal stress on the quality of essential oil should also be researched.
It has been proposed that aromatic plants could restore unproductive as well as marginal lands to the status of productive agroecosystems. Given the fact that these species can often thrive in adverse conditions where food crops fail or are less feasible, their cultivation with low input and high output in the form of valuable essential oil is attractive [125,126]. In this regard, L. angustifolia is a suitable crop for abandoned and hilly marginal lands. The value of agronomic production per hectare of land is 5800 EUR, according to data from Italy, if it is used for essential oil production [127]. Lavender plants are adversely affected by salinity stress, with both morphometric as well as essential oil yield significantly reduced. The interaction of bio-dynamic preparations and biofertilizers were shown to alleviate salt stress effects in lavender and enhance essential oil yield [128]. These further open up the possibility of extending the cultivation of lavender without competing for fertile agricultural soil.
Protection of cultural heritage monuments against degradation could be aided by lavender. Lavender essential oil (10–100 μL/mL) was tested against fungi isolated from cultural heritage objects. Sensitive isolates were Epicoccum nigrum Link and Penicillium sp., proving lavender essential oil might be used to mitigate the activity of some biodeteriogens [129].
In agriculture, there are some interesting uses for products and by-products of lavender. The solid by-product resulting from essential oil extraction has been used as soil fertilizer or converted into a fuel source. However, these cheap valuable resources may currently be of industrial interest, and might find better uses [119]. Lavender essential oil has been shown to have a moderate inhibition effect on the growth of plant pathogens, such as Alternaria sp., Botrytis cinerea, and Colletotrichum sp., with the most effective concentration being 1000 μL/L [130]. The loss of stored food production due to pests poses particular challenges that call for sustainable approaches, due to the toxicity of some chemicals used. An experiment demonstrated that lavender essential oil is effective against Acanthoscelides obtectus Say [131]. The use of lavender essential oil as insecticide for stored grains, although effective, might not yet be entirely feasible, considering the costs and high quantities needed [109].
Because the lavender scent effectively repels moths and flies, for this purpose it is placed in closets and drawers, with proven insecticidal activity [118]. For home use, the required quantities are smaller than for industrial-scale use, and therefore is more widespread. Room fresheners and pot-pourris for home are common uses [3]. Since other species of the genus Lavandula are known to have higher camphor content than L. angustifolia, they are more suitable for use as insect repellents, as well as more effective antimicrobials [21].
In animal farming, there is evidence for the advantages of using lavender for rearing healthy broiler chickens. Chickens provided with water containing 0.4 mL/L lavender essential oil during the second period of rearing (days 22–24) had enhanced body weight, with 6.35% higher than the control. In addition, the treatment improved the gut health of chickens [132]. Dietary lavender extract (1.0–1.5%) administered to common carp (Cyprinus carpio L.) was associated with the suppression of crowding stress, inflammation and oxidative conditions, as well as of increased immune responses [133]. Lavender was shown to have acaricidal capacity and could be used against ticks and in a veterinary context [134].
Some niche uses with potential emerging importance or experimental value were also proposed. Lavender essential oil was showed to inhibit the growth of some Mediterranean weeds, suggesting its potential use as bioherbicide [135]. Novel cellulosic fiber with a crystallinity index of 65% was obtained from lavender stems [136]. Lavender essential oil was shown to also have an application in the leather tanning industry [137].

6. Essential Oil Standards for L. angustifolia

Due to the increasing market demand as well as the expanding use of essential oils, the development of regulations, guidelines and standards aiming to maintain a high level of quality and safety remains a priority. Exigence is necessary for ensuring that buyers are receiving what they paid for, and in addition, depending on the destination of use and industry, for ensuring the derived product quality is not adversely affected.

6.1. Sensorial Quality of Essential Oil

The characteristic scent of lavender oil is fresh floral, resembling the flowering tops of the plant [38]. Oxygenated monoterpenes are the bulk constituent of lavender essential oil and responsible for the characteristic scent. The common monoterpenoids in lavender essential oil are: alcohols, esters, ketones and oxides [24]. The main component in lavender essential oil is linalool, both esterified in the form of linalyl acetate as well as free [92].
True lavender essential oil is appreciated due to its softer olfactory bouquet in comparison to that of other species of the genus [7,24]. The essential oil obtained from the flowers has a milder fragrance than the one obtained from leaves or other plant parts. The essential oil from the leaves and stems is higher in 1,8-cineole and camphor, which are responsible for harsher notes [24]. The linalyl acetate content determines the superior or inferior quality of lavender essential oil [92], and this constituent is also responsible for the floral–woody sensory character of the essential oil [24]. A camphor content exceeding 1.2% reduces the aroma quality by giving a fresher accent, while α-terpineol gives the desired lilac-like scent. It has been proposed that terpineol-4-ol in higher concentrations (over 2%) diminishes the essential oil value by giving it a grass-like scent [92]. These aspects related to aromatic quality are important, considering that essential oils are further used in perfume industry. Therefore, a balance between components is a defining sensorial quality.

6.2. Current Standards and Trending Guidelines for Essential Oil Quality

Lavender essential oil must have the appearance of a clear liquid, pale yellow in color. To meet the standards, at 20 °C, the relative density must be between 0.878% and 0.892%, the refractive index between 1.457 and 1.466 and the optical rotation between 12.5° and 6°. To obtain a clear solution with one volume of authentic lavender essential oil, should not be required to use more than 2–3 volumes of ethanol 70% or 75%. The maximum acid values should be between 1.0–1.2, while ester values should be between 90–160 [38].
The essential oil profile of lavender analyzed by gas chromatography must present characteristic compounds. Representative compounds are presented in Table 3, according to current standards from literature. These are given for clonal and spontaneous lavender, respectively. The latter refers to standards for essential oil obtained from lavender that was obtained exclusively by seed and grew spontaneously or was cultivated in the south of France. Clonal lavender refers to those plants obtained from crops propagated through cuttings [38].
Table 3. Standards for L. angustifolia essential oil quality.
One study showed that volatile profiles of both the calyx and whole flowering tops are consistent with the lavender ISO (International Organization for Standardization) standard, but by contrast, the volatile profiles for the corolla and leaf alone are not within lavender standard ranges. Compared to the corolla, leaf and entire flowering top, the essential oil from the calyx is low in camphor and borneol, hence its superior characteristics. If an abundance of leafy plant material is harvested once with the flowering tops, the quality of the essential oil obtained could be unintentionally reduced (compared to carefully harvesting flowering tops alone) and will present elevated camphor levels [76].
There are various certification schemes for agri-sector products worldwide that can attest to certain qualitative particularities of raw material and final product, and these can be grouped into several typologies [138]. Among these, some that may present potential interest for lavender are presented below:
  • good agricultural practices (GAP)
  • origin certification schemes that guarantee specific origin/quality/attributes
  • organic product schemes
  • multi-purpose schemes that can combine GAP and quality management
  • traceability and safety schemes
  • other schemes: non-GMO, Fairtrade [138].
Within the European Union, organic essential oils must be obtained from crops that comply with European and national regulations for organic agriculture [139]. The land must be converted and applicants must undergo inspections on site. Examples of some organic lavender essential oil certifications in France are ECO-Cert, Qualité-France, SOCOTEC [6].
In the European Union, the regulation of commercialized essential oils is under the incidence of Regulation EC Number 1907/2006 EC on ‘Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals’ (REACH) [140], and other regulations, depending on destination of use, for example, when the destination of use is flavorings in the food industry (Regulation EC Number 1334/2008) or products in the cosmetic sector (Regulation EC Number 1223/2009). Through the REACH regulation, the ‘European Chemical Agency’ (ECHA) was instituted with the purpose of gathering, managing and supervising the registration of chemicals by the manufacturers and importers. In addition, two entities, the European Federation of Essential Oils (EFEO) and the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) release guides on substance identification and environmental assessment guidance on essential oils that assist both manufacturers and other industry and market actors [141].
In general, variations in the composition of essential oils of aromatic plants can influence their biological activities [17], and it was proposed that the synergistic effect of various compounds within an essential oil contributes to their overall effectiveness [142].

6.3. Safety and Authenticity Issues

In general, the aroma profile of essential oils can be given by a dominant constituent or a mixture of constituents, depending on botanical identity [17]. Given the high demand in late years, adulteration is not uncommon across supply chains of essential oils [74,143], and consists in the addition of cheaper essential oils and cheap synthetic materials, or dilution with mineral or vegetable oil, among the most common alterations [74,144]. The simplest way to test for adulteration of an essential oil with vegetable oils is to place a drop on the filter paper and examine it after 24 hours. If a translucent spot is observed, then it indicates that fatty acids (e.g., vegetable oils) were added to that essential oil [74]. The adulteration of lavender essential oil is also achieved by the addition of lavandin and/or spike lavender essential oil, which have higher camphor levels (>6%). Therefore, to determine the authenticity and quality of lavender essential oil, it is important to distinguish the cause of elevated camphor levels. This could be attributed to either the addition of lavandin/spike lavender or to mixing lavender flowering tops with high quantities of lavender leaves for extraction [76]. The usual instrumental procedure to differentiate between authentic and inauthentic/adulterated lavender essential oils is to evaluate the chemical composition in regard to the normalized percentage area or true quantitation of the diagnostic markers, which must be then compared against reference thresholds stipulated in pharmacopoeias or ISO norm monographies [74]. Investigation of 72 lavender essential oil samples showed that unidentified/commercial samples exhibited wider variation in their composition than authentic ones of known origin. As for the indicator compounds, in some samples 1,8-cineole, linalool, camphor, and linalyl acetate exceeded the ISO standards, while 3-octanone, cis/trans-β-ocimenes, lavandulol and terpinen-4-ol were outside the range of the authentic ones. Authors showed that ISO standards alone are not always sufficient to distinguish between authentic and adulterated essential oil. The Q-Index method based on multiple markers was shown as a highly sensitive tool for discriminating between genuine and adulterated volatile oils [145]. As for the borderline samples that cannot be placed clearly in either category, enantiomeric recognition and an absolute quantitative analysis of a set of marker compounds can be used in addition to the normalized relative abundances for identifying adulterations [74].
When it comes to essential oils, safety and efficient doses are aspects to be considered in their use and application [142]. Because authentic essential oils are highly concentrated, they require caution when they are being used [146]. However, lavender essential oil is considered one of the mildest known plant-derived essential oils, and therefore has been used for topical application undiluted on skin. One of the few studies on the cytotoxicity of lavender essential oil showed that dermal cells presented a viability of 80%–100% at concentrations up to 0.125% (v/v), but not beyond [147]. This suggested that dilution of lavender essential oil when it is used on skin is prudent to prevent sensitization. Results also suggested that linalyl acetate might have a higher chance of causing a skin reaction than the linalool from the composition of lavender essential oil [147]. There have been conflicting reports in the scientific literature on the potential estrogen-like or anti-androgen action of lavender essential oil. A recent critical review of scientific literature by Hawkins et al. [148], found no indication based on the current knowledge that there is any link between lavender essential oil and endocrine disruption in children.

7. Summary of the Factors Influencing Essential Oil of L. angustifolia

The numerous factors influencing essential oil characteristics in aromatic plants can be divided into two main categories: (1) before and up until harvesting and (2) post-harvesting factors. The first category of factors refers to all those aspects that influence the living plant, and directly reflect on the quality of the biologic material at the time of harvest. The second category refers to all those aspects that intervene post-harvest and involves what happens to the biologic material after it is collected. The two categories are interlinked to an extent, since all together influence the end result.
The value of herbal medicines and aromatic plants is directly related to their application, which depends on the consistent quantitative and qualitative composition of the biologic material provided. However, due to cultivation and processing there can arise a substantial variability. The goal is to reduce such variability as much as possible and at the same time to increase the level of qualitative uniformity.

7.1. Factors Related to Plant Biology, Cultivation and Harvesting

Factors intrinsic to the plant are some of the most important. Ontogeny influences the accumulation and composition of essential oil and is therefore found in relation to the optimal time of harvest [17,27]. For this reason, specific phenophase must be defined for this operation [5]. During the development of flower and inflorescence of lavender, the content and composition of essential oil varies [92]. Usually, younger aromatic plants synthesize more essential oil, but the older ones have a richer composition [2]. There are variations from one year to another for the same genotype of lavender [92]. A recent study from Italy showed that the linalool content of lavender essential oil presented high positive correlation with the age of the lavender plant with an increasing trend between the first and fourth years, in contrast to the linalool acetate trend. Similar increasing content with age was observed for two other characteristic components of lavender essential oil: 3-octanone and α-terpineol [127]. A study from Hungary showed that only two out of eight cultivars displayed significant differences in the composition of their essential oil with plant age [149]. Plant organs can influence the essential oil composition, as shown by Wilson et al. [76], the highest quality being obtained from flowers; therefore, the inclusion of stems and leaves should be kept at a minimum during harvesting.
Agronomic factors, such as the genotype used [72,96] and aspects related to the cultivation technology, such as fertilization [64,65] and irrigation [35], were shown to influence the essential oil obtained from lavender. Some factors are very specific, such as the time of day at harvest [5,73]. It was proposed that there is also a relationship between lavender plant pollinators and optimal essential oil production, considering that harvesting is performed towards the end of flowering and the unpollinated flowers drop down early [150].
Among the environmental factors, the microclimate, such as temperature and precipitation distribution along some geographical particularities, can contribute to differences among chemotypes in aromatic plants [17]. A study from Hungary showed that weather conditions—particularly precipitation, influenced the linalool to linalyl acetate ratio in lavender [149].
There are also geographical factors influencing agronomic traits in the genotypes of lavender. Results showed that an ecological gradient created germplasm heterogeneity. Thus, intra-specific variations in secondary metabolites both qualitatively and quantitatively were associated with the latitudinal gradient [22]. Furthermore, lavender grown at higher altitudes has higher essential oil content [24].

7.2. Factors Related to Drying, Extraction and Storage

Pre-processing aspects can influence the essential oil obtained, such as drying methods [35]. Storage can also play a role. Research into two varieties of lavender conducted over a period of eight years showed that during long-term storage of dry flowers, the essential oil content decreased with a mean of 2.56% per year, with notable changes in the volatile profile as well [87].
Regarding distillation, several parameters, such as temperature, pH, duration of extraction, aqueous medium—all can influence the essential oil obtained [24]. Comparative investigations also showed that the method of extraction can also influence the parameters and efficiency of essential oil extraction from lavender [28,77]. Once obtained, the stability of essential oils obtained is important for maintaining long-term adequate properties and characteristics [10]. In this regard, optimizing the techno-functional delivery systems in the applications related to lavender essential oils (either for cosmetic products and pharmaceutical use) meant to increase their stability and effectiveness are noteworthy research approaches. Research showed that encapsulation within edible bio-polymers enhanced the thermal stability of lavender essential oil, while emulsions of lavender essential oil nano-droplets can result in enhanced shelf life stability [151]. Furthermore, encapsulation of lavender essential oil could ensure superior applications against pathogenic microorganisms [152,153].

8. Conclusions

Among hundreds of essential oil-bearing plants, L. angustifolia remains one of the most valuable. Its increasing market demand is driven by consumer behavior because of its use being associated with a healthy lifestyle, while expanding applications in various industries are monetizing this trend. The quality of the essential oil obtained can be influenced by a variety of factors that occur either before or after harvest, and standards are set in place to define the range of acceptable variability.
Lavender crops have increased in recent years, but they do not necessarily compete with food crops for agricultural land, because lavender can be grown on marginal, less productive land or on land contaminated with heavy metals, because it is a low-input crop, while the resulting essential oil is free of heavy-metal contaminants.
The main trends in the cultivation of lavender are related to the use of environmentally friendly approaches for the production of a high-quality raw material, such as organic fertilization and microbial preparations (e.g., arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi). Breeding efforts making use of novel findings on wild genotypes from populations from the natural range could aim at creating cultivars with more complex volatile profiles. In addition, biotechnology has been used in preliminary studies to screen for either tolerance or susceptibility to various factors (e.g., salinity, diseases) that can impact the crop, and these should be further researched. Performant genotypes and optimized technology packages are needed to ensure a steady supply of raw material of high quality. Improved methods of extraction should be strongly considered and extended in use, such as microwave-assisted, hydrodiffusion and gravity extraction. Long-term stability of essential oils could be achieved by their encapsulation, to prolong shelf-life quality as well as enhance techno-functional delivery systems in their applications. After essential oil extraction results some by-products, such as solid biomass and hydrolat, which could find new uses and thus generate new streams of value.
The greatest challenges come from the increasing incidence of lavender diseases. Worrisome reports exist regarding increasing stolbur incidence caused by ‘Candidatus Phytoplasma solani’ in Europe, where most lavender crops are located, as well as first accounts of severe Epicoccum sorghinum infection of lavender crops from China, which could become a worldwide issue in a short while. These pathogens can drastically reduce the life of the crop from one decade to just a few years, therefore threatening the supply chain of lavender raw material. In addition, there are some unresolved concerns regarding the adulteration of lavender essential oil on the market that must be addressed. Certification schemes to guarantee authenticity, origin and quality should become mainstream for lavender products.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, I.C., A.O., D.V. and R.V.; methodology, I.C., A.O. and D.V.; investigation, I.C., A.O., D.V., A.M. and R.V.; writing—original draft preparation, I.C. and A.O.; writing—review and editing I.C., A.O., D.V., L.M., A.M., R.V., T.M. and A.S.; visualization, I.C. and A.O.; supervision, L.M. and R.V. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This research received no external funding.

Data Availability Statement

Not applicable.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflict of interest.

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