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Pharmaceutics 2018, 10(4), 266; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics10040266

Investigation of Different Iontophoretic Currents Profiles for Short-Term Applications in Cosmetics

1
Instrumental Cosmetics, Applied Research, L’Oréal, 94550 Chevilly-Larue, France
2
Advanced Research, L’Oréal, 93600 Aulnay-sous-Bois, France
3
School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Geneva & University of Lausanne, 1205 Geneva, Switzerland
4
Instituto Interuniversitario de Investigación de Reconocimiento Molecular y Desarrollo Tecnológico (IDM), Universitat Politècnica de València, Universitat de València, 46100 Valencia, Spain
5
Departament de Farmàcia i Tecnologia Farmacèutica i Parasitologia, Universitat de València, 46100 Valencia, Spain
6
Servicio de Farmacia: Hospital Universitario Doctor Peset, 46017 Valencia, Spain
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Received: 31 October 2018 / Revised: 27 November 2018 / Accepted: 1 December 2018 / Published: 7 December 2018
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Abstract

This study aimed at investigating the effect of electrical current profile upon the iontophoretic transport of (i) ascorbic acid (AA) and (ii) ellagic acid (EA), into porcine skin in vitro, and the impact of the physicochemical properties of both actives on their mechanism of transport when formulated in cosmetic compositions. The experiments were performed using a proprietary iontophoretic device containing a roller to apply the formulation. Three current profiles were tested: (i) galvanic direct current (DC), (ii) square unipolar pulse current (SPC), and (iii) galvanic direct current (DC) + pulse current (PC). The skin samples were collected at different sampling points, extracted and analyzed by HPLC. Results suggested that the DC + PC mode for only 5 min was able to significantly increase the delivery of AA from o/w cosmetic compositions. The use of this current profile might improve the skin penetration of AA due to electromigration and passive diffusion, the latter being facilitated by the physical enhancement method. The SPC mode significantly improved the passage of EA in its neutral form from cosmetic o/w formulations by electroosmosis. Tailoring specific electrical current modes considering the ionization state of active ingredients would allow the design of short and personalized cosmetic treatments that significantly improve the penetration efficiency of the active ingredients and possibly reduce the doses applied. View Full-Text
Keywords: iontophoresis; topical penetration; ascorbic acid; ellagic acid; pulsed current; galvanic current; square unipolar pulse current iontophoresis; topical penetration; ascorbic acid; ellagic acid; pulsed current; galvanic current; square unipolar pulse current
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited (CC BY 4.0).
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Cázares-Delgadillo, J.; Planard-Luong, L.; Gregoire, S.; Serna-Jiménez, C.E.; Singhal, M.; Kalia, Y.N.; Merino, V.; Merino-Sanjuán, M.; Nácher, A.; Martínez-Gómez, M.A.; Burnier-Yalaoui, V.; Barbarat, P. Investigation of Different Iontophoretic Currents Profiles for Short-Term Applications in Cosmetics. Pharmaceutics 2018, 10, 266.

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