Search Results (5)

The post-storm beach recovery process exhibits variability. Understanding its mechanisms is crucial for advancing the study of beach morphodynamics. This study involved a 25-day continuous field observation on Dongdao Beach, Hailing Island, Yangjiang City, Guangdong Province, following the passage of Typhoon Cempaka. The evolution of beach morphology and the spatiotemporal variations in erosion and accretion were analyzed to explore the key influencing factors, response mechanisms, and recovery modes during the short-term recovery process. The post-storm evolution of beach profile structures is predominantly influenced by major geomorphic units such as berms and sandbars, whereas localized responses are characterized by adjustments of fine-scale features like micro-troughs. The width of the supratidal zone and the position of the berm crest continuously fluctuate, while the slope of the intertidal zone increases or decreases as the berm crest migrates landward or seaward. The erosion–accretion process was complex and occurred in distinct stages, with marked spatial heterogeneity. In some areas, the beach experienced multiple short-term cycles of alternating erosion and accretion. Beach slope plays a significant role in short-term recovery. Three types of response relationships between beach unit-width volume and changes in slope were observed, with flatter beaches being more sensitive to changes in unit-width volume. Based on this, four recovery modes in the post-storm short-term recovery process were explored from the perspective of beach slope. This study provides theoretical support for managing beaches after storms and recommends the implementation of zoned and phased management strategies based on different recovery modes to enhance the efficiency and resilience of coastal recovery. Full article

Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions. Full article

Nearshore sandbars are dynamic features that characterize shallow morphobathymetry and vary over a wide range of geometries and temporal lifespans. Nearshore sandbars influence beach geometry by altering the energy of incoming waves; thus, monitoring the evolution of sandbars is a fundamental approach in effective coastal planning. Due to several natural and technical limitations related to shallow seafloor mapping, there is a significant gap in the availability of high-resolution, shallow bathymetric data for monitoring the dynamic behaviour of nearshore sandbars effectively. This study introduces a novel image-processing technique that produces time series of pseudo-bathymetric data by utilizing multi-temporal (monthly) drone imagery, and it provides an assessment of local morphodynamics at a sandy beach in the southeast Mediterranean. The technique is called standardized-ratio bathymetric index (SRBI), and it transforms natural-colour drone imagery to pseudo-bathymetric data by applying an empirical formula used for satellite-derived bathymetry. This technique correlates well with laser altimetry depth measurements; however, it does not require in situ depth data for implementation. The resulting pseudo-bathymetric data allows for extracting cross-shore profiles and delineating the sandbar crest with 4 m horizontal accuracy. Stacking of temporal profiles allowed for the quantification of the sandbar’s crest and trough changes at different alongshore sections. The main findings suggest that the nearshore crescentic sandbar at Episkopi Beach (north Crete) shows strong seasonality regarding net offshore migration that is promoted by enhanced wave action during winter months. In addition, the crescentic sandbar is susceptible to morphology arrestment during prolonged weeks of low wave action. The average migration rate during winter is 10 m.month⁻¹, with some sections exhibiting a maximum of 60 m.month⁻¹. This study (a) offers a novel remote-sensing approach, suitable for nearshore seafloor monitoring with low computational complexity, (b) reveals sandbar geometry and temporal change in superior detail compared to other observational methods, and (c) advances knowledge about nearshore sandbar monitoring in the Mediterranean region. Full article

Sandbars are commonly encountered in coastal environments, acting as natural protections during storm events. However, the sandbar response to waves and possible shear failure is poorly understood. In this research, a two–dimensional numerical model is settled to simulate the wave-induced sandbar soil dynamics and instability mechanism. The model, which is based upon the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and Biot’s consolidation theory, is validated using available experiments. Parametric studies are then conducted to appraise the impact of the wave parameters and soil properties on soil dynamics. Results indicate that the vertical distribution of the maximum vertical effective stress in the sandbar is different from that in the flat seabed, which decreases rapidly along the soil depth and then increases gradually. The impact of soil permeability and saturation on the vertical effective stress distribution around the sandbar also differ from that in the flat seabed. Unlike the flat seabed, the vertical distribution of shear stress in the sandbar increases with an increasing wave period. The sandbar soil shear failure potential is discussed based upon the Mohr–Coulomb criterion. Results show that the range of shear failure around the sandbar is wider and the depth is deeper when the wave trough arrives. Full article

Understanding the spatiotemporal variability of surface moisture on a beach is a necessity to develop a quantitatively accurate predictive model for aeolian sand transport from the beach into the foredune. Here, we analyze laser-derived surface moisture maps with a 1 × 1 m spatial and a 15-min temporal resolution and concurrent groundwater measurements collected during falling and rising tide at the barred Egmond beach, the Netherlands. Consistent with earlier studies, the maps show that the beach can be conceptualized into three surface moisture zones. First, the wet zone just above the low tide level: 18–25%; second, the intertidal zone: 5–25% with large fluctuations. In this zone, surface moisture can decrease with a rate varying between ∼2.5–4% per hour, and cumulatively with 16% during a single falling tide; and, third, the back beach zone: 3–7% (dry). The bar–trough system perturbs this overall zonation, with the moisture characteristics on the bar similar to the upper intertidal beach and the trough always remaining wet. Surface moisture fluctuations are strongly linked to the behavior of groundwater depth and can be described by a ’Van Genuchten-type’ retention curve without hysteresis effects. Applying the Van Genuchten relationship with measured groundwater data allows us to predict surface moisture maps. Results show that the predictions capture the overall surface moisture pattern reasonably well; however, alongshore variability in groundwater level should be improved to refine the predicted surface moisture maps, especially near the sandbar. Full article