In this section, I bolster the discussion that Fung and Canavan mention in their readings of these passages, by demonstrating how the act of putting on clothes would have racial implications. First, however, what do I mean by “race?” Some readers may be uncomfortable with my use of “race” in this essay. However, I purposefully use this term in order to disrupt our modern sensibilities that obscure how the ancients thought about people groups, their differences, and how they were categorized. If we think that the idea of “race” did not exist in the ancient world, then we will fail to observe how the ancients made value statements and judgments about various people groups. One may also prefer the term “ethnicity” instead of “race.” However, it is difficult to define and distinguish “race” and “ethnicity” given their overlapping use and interchangeability (
Sechrest 2009, pp. 54–60;
Estrada 2023, pp. 12–17). Even Eric Gruen admits that the term “race” may be a misleading and erroneous category given its modern usage (2012, pp. 197–98). However, as
Buell (
2005, p. 2) remarks, “it frequently demarcates groups whose members apparently share certain characteristics”. It is thus helpful to think about “race” as classification language that organizes human difference (
McCoskey 2012, p. 2). It appears whenever the ancients attempt to define group differences and group boundaries (
Estrada 2023, p. 17).
Truly, clothing is a vital racial marker and part of the social construction of race (
McCoskey 2021, p. 4;
Derbew 2021, pp. 25–26;
Buell 2021, p. 61). It visibly identifies an individual with a particular racial group. It is not the only component to racial identity. It is one among many components, including language, lineage, laws, religion and so forth (Herodotus 8.144; Tacitus
Agr. 21.1). We cannot, however, discount clothing’s importance and its visual communication of belonging to a racial group. We find in Greek and Roman Literature various perceptions made about racial groups based upon their clothing. When the ancients described different racial groups, they tended to highlight their clothing—what they wore and how it differed from the dress of other people. Our study will also reveal how racial fluidity and judgments of inferiority or superiority were based on clothing. Clothing certainly made it easy to observe and racially classify various people groups. Most notably, it also demonstrated the malleable nature of one’s racial identity. Just as one could change one’s clothes daily, so could people change racial identities as though garments, too.
3.1. Barbarian Clothing
It is Thucydides who makes a connection between clothing and the barbarian identity. He remarks that the early Greek athletes wore loincloths during the Olympic games, a practice no longer employed by the Greeks during his time. Only barbarians, however, would cover themselves during the athletic games of boxing and wrestling (1.6.5–6). This was no minor point of comparison. In discussing the clothing of Athenians, Ionians, and Spartans, Thucydides points out that the ancient Hellenic manner of life was similar to the barbarian way of life. He also finds that the Spartans were the first to wear a moderate and modern style of dress but trained openly while naked. Clothing reflected a barbarian identity—one the Greeks had eschewed and progressed from.
Aeschylus also reflects a similar sentiment. In his
Suppliants, he describes Pelasgus, the king of Argos, encountering fifty daughters of Danaus who were forced to marry Egyptian husbands. The king was able to identify the women by their clothing. He describes them as having “un-Greek garb, wearing luxurious barbarian robes and headbands” (
Suppl. 239). He makes mention that none of the women in all the Greek lands wear such clothes. These women, however, claim to be Argives by race. The king refuses to believe their claim. Instead, he asserts that they “… bear more resemblance to the women of Libya—certainly not to those of this country. The Nile, too, might nurture such a crop” (
Suppl. 280–85). We must notice, though, that not just their physical appearance confused the king but also their clothing. Clothing, in other words, was a racial signifier. Their clothing was not “Greek” and could not convince the king. This is not the only time Aeschylus makes this association. In Aeschylus’
Persians, he associates Persian clothing with a barbarian identity. In one episode, Aeschylus describes a dream by the mother of Xerxes. The mother saw two well-dressed women, one in Persian clothing and the other in Dorian clothing. What was the difference between these two women? Nothing at all. They are described as “sisters of the same stock” (
Pers. 180). Indeed, Gruen finds that this dream makes the point that both Greeks and Persians “belong to the same lineage”
Gruen (
2012, p. 20). However, what distinguished the women was their clothing. That is, to wear barbarians clothing provides a visual marker of one’s non-Greek identity, despite one’s ancestral roots. The woman in Dorian clothing came from Greece, whereas the other woman, as Aeschylus describes, came from a vague “barbarian land” (
Pers. 185). Clothing not only distinguished the two women in the dream, but the woman of Persian clothing is associated with “barbarian” land, which also reflects the tendency to conform and be subservient to despots (
Pers. 190–95). Even though Greeks and Persians may have a common ancestor, clothing itself provides a visual mechanism to distinguish barbarians from Greeks.
We also notice in Plutarch’s
Life of Alexander a similar association between clothing and a barbarian identity. Alexander the Great is described as putting on “barbarian” clothing when he ventured to the region of Parthia (
Alex. 45.1). Plutarch does not know how to interpret this action and proposes two possible motivations. Either this was due to a desire to adapt himself to the local customs, thinking that this sharing of customs and culture would lead to “softening the hearts of men” (
Alex. 45.2), or second, Alexander wanted to observe if this would lead to the custom of prostration before him. Nonetheless, Plutarch announces that Alexander did not put on Median clothes. It was too “barbaric and strange”, given that they wear pants, cloaks, or a tiara (
Alex. 45.2). Instead, Alexander utilized a blend of Persian and Median clothes, which communicated a style that was more “modest than the one and more stately than the other” (
Alex. 45.3). Plutarch continues to recount that this clothing was utilized when Alexander was entertaining the “barbarians”, as he describes (
Alex. 45.3), but Plutarch admits that Alexander became too comfortable with this clothing and offended his Macedonian companions. Alexander’s decision to wear barbarian clothing was tolerated for some time by his Macedonian companions, given that they still admired his character. Eventually, though, as Plutarch describes Alexander:
he adapted his own mode of life still more to the customs of the country and tried to bring these into closer agreement with Macedonian customs, thinking that by a mixture and community of practice which produced good will, rather than by force, his authority would be kept secure while he was far away.
(Alex. 47.3)
What would these customs that Alexander tried to impart to his conquered subjects include? Plutarch mentions that Alexander encouraged people to learn the Greek language, Macedonian weaponry, and instruction. However, it cannot be lost that while Alexander tried to influence non-Greeks of Greek culture, he himself was becoming similar to the “barbarians” in the eyes of his Macedonian companions. Alexander’s clothing was indeed a hybrid mixture of various styles, which also reflects his own hybrid identity—an identity that offended his Macedonian companions. In fact, one of his military officials, Cleitus, debated with Alexander and called to his attention that he was surrounding himself with barbarians and slaves who would bow down to Alexander while he wears his “white tunic and Persian girdle” (Alex. 51.3). Cleitus even remarks that happy are the Macedonians who have died and were not present to see Alexander betray his Macedonian father, Philip, and associate himself with Ammon, a deity from Libya who had associations with Egypt (Alex. 50.6). In other words, Alexander’s Macedonian army started to notice that he was becoming a barbarian through his gradual incorporation of non-Macedonian clothing. While I describe in the next section the relationship between clothing and racial transformation, I want to point out here that Plutarch’s narration of Alexander the Great provides a striking example on how the embrace of non-Macedonian clothing caused his army alarm. According to these loyal Macedonians, to dress in the style of a barbarian is to lose one’s Macedonian identity.
Other Greek and Roman writers also described racial groups according to their clothing. When it comes to describing the various people from Africa—Libya and Ethiopia in particular—there is a general tendency to differentiate or generalize various tribes by their clothing, or even making mention that they wear no clothes. For example, Herodotus distinguishes various Libyan people groups by their clothing. He remarks that the Adurmachidae Libyans practice Egyptian customs but wear clothes similar to other Libyans, noting that the women wear bronze anklets around their legs (His. 4.168). Strabo describes the people who live in Libya as “cloth[ing] themselves with the skins of lions, leopards, and bears” and the Pharusians and Nigretes, certain people west of the Ethiopians, as barbarians who use serpent and fish skins for clothing and bed covers (Geo. 17.3.7). When Diodorus describes the Ethiopian tribes, he remarks that they are “entirely savage and display the nature of a wild beast, not so much, however, in their temper as in their ways of living” (Bibl. hist. 3.8.2). He notices that they are “a striking contrast” in light of Greek customs, noting that some do not wear clothing while others wear the skin of animals (Bibl. hist. 3.8.3–6). Pliny finds that the far reaches of the world produce strange humans and animals with monstrous shapes. He states, “It is by no means surprising that the outermost districts of this region produce animal and human monstrosities, considering the capacity of the mobile element of fire to mold their bodies and carve their outlines” (Hist. 6.187). In particular, when describing the territory of Ethiopia, he notes that the Gymnets people never wear clothes (Hist. 6.190).
What implications can we observe, then, about clothing and racial identity? As we notice with the early Greeks, Thucydides demonstrates that the Greeks used to dress in the manner of the barbarians when they wore loin cloths but moved away from that practice and, by implication, evolved in their racial identity and civility. What is barbarian clothing? This is no specific garment, but various clothing styles associated with a non-Greek style. Barbarian clothing is Libyan, Persian, and Median clothing. It is the clothing of the ‘other’. As we can observe in this short review, this clothing was also associated with those considered inferior and with a servitude nature. In addition, racial groups and tribes differentiated themselves by their clothing. Clothing not only seems to distinguish one’s racial identity, but it can also reflect a process of change with the change of clothing. One’s clothing, in other words, impacted how one was perceived by others, as we notice within Plutarch’s description of the Macedonian reaction of Alexander’s dress and the various comments made by Greek and Roman writers about people from Africa. Another element must be further explored, however—how the change of clothing also communicates a change in racial identity.
3.2. Change of Clothing, Change of Race
In our review of Plutarch’s
Life of Alexander, we have already noticed the connection between a change in one’s racial identity with the wearing of clothing. This is not a new idea but found throughout Greek and Roman Literature. It was Herodotus who recounted a startling story of a Scythian named Scyles who was the son of Ariapethes, a Scythian king. He was born from an Istrain woman who taught him how to speak and read Greek (
His. 4.78). When Scyles became king, he did not appreciate the Scythian way of life and was more inclined to a Greek way of life. During a military venture against the city of the Borysthenites, he left his army outside the gate and entered the city. While in the city, he removed his Scythian clothing, put on Greek clothing, and followed the Greek manner of life. Herodotus writes that no one saw him do this. This happened frequently to the point that he would spend many months there. He had built a lavish house and married a woman from the city. When Scyles would leave the city, he would resume his Scythian clothing (
His. 4.78). During a time when he was participating in a Dionysus initiation rite, however, Sycles’ double life was exposed. A fellow Borysthenite exposed Scyles’ identity by informing the Scythians that their king had been initiated into this Greek rite. This Borysthenite brought some Scythians into the city to show them their king who was with Dionysian worshippers (
His. 4.79). The Scythians saw their king and reported to their army about their king’s double life. Scyles was eventually deposed and fled to Thracia but was eventually captured and executed (
His. 4.80). A Greek reader of this account would find it startling that the Scythians would execute Scyles for participating in a Greek way of life, culture, clothing, and religion.
Hartog (
1988, p. 62) explains that the Greeks in this story are being interpreted through the perspective of the “other”. He finds that this story also communicates to the reader that both traveling to distant lands and being bilingual in different cultural groups are dangerous activities that lead to neglecting the boundaries between groups
Hartog (
1988, pp. 64–84).
This story about Scyles not only explains why the Scythians protect their own customs and avoid Greek rites, but it also demonstrates how racial identity was fluid and could visibly be expressed and associated with clothing. One could “put on” a Greek identity by wearing Greek clothing and likewise “put on” a Scythian identity with Scythian clothing. Clothing provided a boundary marker that differentiated racial groups—boundaries that were not to be crossed. Certainly, racial identity includes much more than clothes. Scyles also had a Greek education and practiced Greek rituals, aspects that are also a part of one’s racial identity. We cannot exclude the fact, however, that his change of identity and his blending into the community was facilitated with a change of clothing. Strikingly, a similar example is found with Decimus Brutus, a Roman who participated in the assassination of Julius Caesar. When Marc Antony was pursuing all those involved in the conspiracy against Caesar, it was Decimus who was able to evade capture by dressing up in the style of a Gaul. Appian writes, “he changed into Celtic clothing, and, as he was already fluent in the language, he made his escape with these ten men, passing himself off as a Gaul” (Bell. civ. 3.97). Decimus knew the language and culture and had access to Celtic clothing—possibly because he had served as a commander and former governor of the region alongside Caesar. His access to both the language and the clothing enabled him to escape capture for some time. As we can observe, clothing was not just something one “puts on” but something that demonstrates a visual transformation and association with a racial group.
Within Roman Literature, clothing continues to distinguish racial identity, including the Roman one. Vergil describes the diversity of the human race based upon the diversity of their clothing, weaponry, and language (Aen. 8.720). Additionally, in Virgil’s Aeneid, there is a remarkable correlation between the toga and the Roman racial identity. The Roman people are described as having an “empire without end”, “lords of the world”, and a “nation of the toga” (Aen. 1.280). Virgil also describes a situation when Juno makes a startling request for the emergence of a new Latin race. Juno asks that the Latin race should not change their names, become Trojans, lose their language, or change their clothes (Aen. 12.820–830). Strikingly, clothing—along with language and a self-identifying name—is considered a vital aspect to Latin racial identity. Clothing, in other words, is not just something that is put on. It signaled a racial identity, a particular association with a people group.
This sentiment is also found when the Britons became Romans by embracing a Roman way of life, including the wearing of Roman clothing. Tacitus describes the military success and social reforms of Agricola, his father-in-law, during his campaign in Briton. He allured many Britons and convinced them to give up their hostility toward Rome by parading the benefits of submission. For those who were won over, Tacitus states that Agricola began to educate the people. Then, as a result:
the nation which used to reject the Latin language began to aspire to rhetoric: further, the wearing of our dress became a distinction, and the toga came into fashion, and little by little the Britons went astray into alluring vices: to the promenade, the bath, the well-appointed dinner table. The simple natives gave the name of ‘culture’ to this factor of their slavery.
(Agr. 21.1.)
Agricola was able to convince the Britons to adopt the Roman way of life, which they did. As the Britons lost their indigenous identity and became Roman, they started to speak Latin, think as Romans thought, participate in Roman luxuries, and dress as Romans dressed with the toga. As one can notice, one transforms into a new racial identity with the embrace of cultural aspects that include clothing.
One final example is most notable with the life of Marc Antony, a Roman military general who fought and governed alongside Octavian after the assassination of Julius Caesar. Although Marc Antony and Octavian were fellow Romans, they eventually had a falling out and became enemies. While most “barbarians” desired to become Roman and embrace the Roman toga to signify their change of racial identity, Marc Antony’s racial transition went the opposite direction. He is often described by Greek historians as becoming Egyptianized and for having the tendency to wear Greek clothing.
When Appian describes Marc Antony, he writes that Antony would spend much time in Egypt without displaying “the insignia of command” and would wear the “square-cut Greek cloak instead of his native one and the white attic sandals also worn by the Athenian and Alexandrian priest” (Bell. civ. 5.11). Plutarch also records this similar tendency. He mentions that when Antony left Italy and was in Athens, he celebrated the Roman military victory of Ventidius by leaving at home his Roman “insignia of command” and carried the “wands of a gymnasiarch in a Greek robe and white shoes” (Ant. 33.4). Dio Cassius also does not fail to mention Marc Antony’s dress. On one occasion when Octavian and Marc Antony were meeting face to face to discuss the situation with Pompilius, the son of Pompey, he writes that “they entertained each other at banquets, Caesar [Octavian] in military and Roman fashion and Antony in Asiatic and Egyptian style” (Rom. his. 48.30). The contrast between Octavian and Marc Antony would have been striking.
Cassius, however, explains that Antony was “enslaved” by Cleopatra and was compelled to act as a “gymnasiarch for the Alexandrians” (Rom. his. 50.5). He also notes that Antony would carry an “oriental dagger in his belt”, wear “clothes which were completely alien to Roman custom”, and appear in public “seated upon a gilded couch or chair” (Rom. his. 50.5). This description of Antony, as Cassius narrates, portrays him not as a Roman military general or leader but as a complete foreigner who had lost his Roman identity.
Later when Octavian and Marc Antony do engage in war with each other, the conflict is also understood with racial rhetoric. Octavian justifies the war against Antony by convincing his soldiers that Antony had lost his Roman identity by dressing in the manner of the foreigners Rome had conquered. He states,
Who would not weep when he both hears and sees Antony himself, the man twice consul, often imperator, to whom was committed in common with me the management of the public business, who was entrusted with so many cities, so many legions—when he sees that this man has now abandoned all his ancestors’ habits of life, has emulated all alien and barbaric customs, that he pays no honor to us or to the laws or to his fathers’ gods.
(Rom. his. 50.25.1–3)
Weeping, in this case, is the Roman response to both “hearing” and “seeing” Marc Antony. What specifically would they see? Most startling, they would no longer see Marc Antony wear his Roman clothes, military garb, and insignia—those visual aspects that communicated Roman identity. Octavian continues:
Therefore let no one count him a Roman, but rather an Egyptian, nor call him Antony, but rather Serapion; let no one think he was ever consul or imperator, but only gymnasiarch. For he has himself, of his own free will, chosen the latter names instead of the former, and casting aside all the august titles of his own land, has become one of the cymbal players from Canopus”.
(Rom. his. 50.27.1–2)
Notice in these speeches that Roman identity is found in maintaining a way of life which includes laws, customs, honor for the Roman people, and the Roman religion. Losing these identity markers indicates to Octavian and other Roman soldiers that Antony had indeed lost his Roman identity—most visible in his Greek clothing and Egyptian way of life. How then does Octavian justify his war against Marc Antony? Simply put, by convincing his soldiers that Marc Antony had lost his Roman identity and that they, they alone, are fighting for Rome.
This version of the Roman story between Octavian and Marc Antony was embedded within Virgil’s Aeneid. When Aeneas receives a shield from Vulcan, embedded is a portrait of Augustus “standing on the lofty stern” and leading the people of Italy with all the might of the gods into war (Aen. 8.675–680). This portrayal is in contrast to Marc Antony who is with his “barbaric might”, Egyptian wife, and “monstrous gods” (Aen. 8.695–700). Marc Antony does not appear as a Roman in a civil conflict with Octavian. In fact, Octavian and his Roman soldiers are the ones who are truly defending the Roman way of life and ancestral traditions. Marc Antony is cast alongside the barbarians and those who do not wear Roman clothing.