3.1. Sacred Food and Secular Food
At the Boston Chinese Catholic Church, food is divided into sacred and secular according to its relevance to religious rituals. Sacred food mainly refers to the Holy Body and Holy Blood in the Mass, which Catholics usually call spiritual food (in Mandarin: 精神食粮). Through the religious rituals, bread and wine are offered by the priest as Holy Body and Holy Blood, symbolizing Jesus’ devotion to the sins of humankind, having sacred religious connotation. Through receiving the Holy Body and the Holy Blood, laity establishes a spiritual connection with God. Secular food refers to food consumption outside the Mass, which includes breakfast after Sunday Mass, church meals, and the daily meals the priests and the church staff have. These foods, even in the Church, are not related to religious rituals and do not have a symbolic religious connotation.
These two types of food traditions are not completely distinguished from each other; on the contrary, they are closely related. Bread and wine are not only consumed during religious rituals but are also integral parts of the secular diet. It is only after the ritual of sanctification that bread and wine are transformed from secular to sacred food (
Eliade 1959). Father Shen has a very graphic analogy to share, according to which “if a piece of bread, passing through my hands, is offered on the altar, all overseas Chinese Catholics will appreciate and accept it because it represents the blessing of God. However, if this piece of bread is placed in the church, the situation will be different. Hong Kong Catholics would eat it as bread that is part of the daily diet. Fujian Catholics would not eat it as they prefer Chinese food. Even if some Fujian Catholics have the habit of eating bread, they will not eat it together with Hong Kong Catholics. The Hong Kong Catholics also have the same attitude toward it. There is a distinction between these two communities, which also affects their food choices and eating habits.”
Thus, food habits play a role in religious distinctions but also in social distinctions. At the Boston Chinese Catholic Church, different communities gather and form different eating habits, ways of interaction, and social relationships.
3.2. Commensality: The Holy Body and the Holy Blood
Commensality is not only a way of eating but also a window into society and culture (
Tan 2015, pp. 13–30). In religion, the meaning of commensality goes beyond the organizational form of food; it is about the expression of religious beliefs and the practice of them. In the study of Semitic religion, Robertson Smith argues that communal eating is a particular religious practice that establishes a kinship bond between humans and gods through sacrificial rituals and uses communal eating as a metaphor for the relationship between humans and gods. In addition, the formation of ‘communal partners’ in religious communions strengthens internal relationships and distinguishes the members from other non-religious believers (
Smith 1995). Following Smith’s work, Émile Durkheim argues that communal eating can create ‘artificial’ kinship bonds between attendees. Therefore, food is always the substance that continues to recreate the social organism (
Durkheim 1995, pp. 330–54). Thus, for individuals, religious commensality can establish a way of communication between man and God and is an important part of the expression and practice of the religious faith. For groups, religious communion can strengthen relationships among the members of the group, maintain the stability of the group order, and ensure the unity of the group. Commensality with religion is very common in Chinese. In Hong Kong, there is a local ‘basin meal’ according to which the locals cook various meals separately, and then they get gathered, with the separate meals being just one meal that is shared alike by everyone. That serves as a symbolic representation of the people who gather to eat. This is a form of an act that can break the boundaries of class and status so that everyone in the shrine is equal while they share food and sit at the same table (
Watson and Watson 2004, pp. 105–24).
It has been noted that during the development of early Christianity, religious worship was practiced during mealtime, thus creating a Christian identity shared alike by everyone eating at the same table at the same time (
Taussig 2009, pp. 19–20). It was not until after the third century that the ritual Eucharist and secular food were gradually divided into different categories. Therefore, commensality in the Christian religion is not only a religious ritual that leads Christians to feel the sanctity of God, but also a manifestation of religious identity that supports the unity of the members of the Christian community (
Flanagan 1991).
The Catholic religion requires Catholics to attend Mass every weekday and on special days as a religious obligation. The Mass is the Catholic religious ritual that commemorates the sacrifice of Jesus, the great Catholic sacrifice to God, and the center of the entire Catholic liturgical life. During the ritual of the Mass, bread and wine offered by the priest, become the Holy Body and Holy Blood, which symbolize the formation of Jesus for the salvation of humanity. As Mary Douglas puts it, “the observance of the dietary rules would thus have been a meaningful part of the great liturgical act of recognition and worship which culminated in the sacrifice in the Temple (
Douglas 1984, p. 58).” This liturgical communion, with its deep theological meaning, is a necessity for the communion of the Chinese Catholics (
Cruz 2016). Catholics attend Mass and consume spiritual food that has a strong religious meaning, establishing their connection to God on a spiritual level.
During the liturgy of the Mass, only Catholics can receive the Holy Body and the ‘Holy Blood.’ On one occasion, a Fujian Catholic brought a friend to Mass to convert him to the Catholic faith. At the Holy Communion, the non-Catholic followed his friend, and they received the Holy Body and the Holy Blood together. This incident caused havoc among the people in the Church, and the members of the management committee of the Boston Chinese Catholic Church, which included both Hong Kong and Fujian Catholics, immediately organized a meeting and unanimously decided to ask the priest to teach the non-Catholic the mystery of the Eucharist, hoping that they would receive it in a holy spirit, even though they had received it by mistake. As we can see, the Holy Body and Holy Blood, as sacred food for Catholics, draw a clear line between Catholics and non-Catholics. At the same time, they also strengthen the religious identity of Catholics.
Both Hong Kong Catholics and Fujian Catholics share the same Catholic identity, which is what enables them to share a commonality. Auntie Liu is a Hong Kong Catholic but serves mainly Fujian Catholics within the Church. Auntie Liu’s husband is a senior engineer and they have two daughters; the older daughter has graduated from college and works for a human resources firm in Boston, and the younger daughter has just started junior high school. Auntie Liu is a full-time wife, and her main job is to take care of her youngest daughter. Auntie Liu is very devoted to her faith and has a lot of free time, so she puts a lot of her time into church work. According to the church’s organizational division of labor, Auntie Liu’s job is mainly to assist the parishioners of the Fujian Community in their religious activities, which mainly includes faith training, daily counseling, and planning as well as arranging activities for the Fujian Community. The first and the third week of each month are called Mandarin Masses and they are mainly attended by the parishioners of the Fujian Community. Auntie Liu brings her young daughter to every Mass to offer to the Fujian community. Each Mass requires a cantor and an organist so Auntie Liu takes the cantor and leaves her young daughter to play the organ. Generally, the Mandarin Mass for the Fujian community ends at 10 am, while the Cantonese Mass for the Hong Kong community begins at 10 am. Parishioners are only required to attend one Mass per day, so after the Mass at the Fujian Community, Auntie Liu and her youngest daughter would do some cleaning at the church, wait for her husband to finish the Cantonese Mass, and then walk home together. Auntie Liu and her daughter are open to attending Masses in the Fujianese community; she said, “the Mass is universal, only the language in each community is different. Hong Kong people and Fujian people attend different Masses because we are used to different things. We all receive the Holy Body and Holy Blood of Jesus Christ in the Mass, and we are all God’s children.” In Auntie Liu’s view, the linguistic differences between the two communities are cultural differences and have nothing to do with the nature of religious faith, saying “whether it’s a Mandarin Mass, a Cantonese Mass, or an English Mass, it is all the same; it is all about our faith in God. We are sharing the body and the blood of Christ, and that is the fundamental essence of faith.” Therefore, Auntie Liu has been consistently attending the Mandarin Mass for Fujian Catholics. The commensality of the rituals within the Church connects the Hong Kong Catholics and the Fujian Catholics.
In short, when we examine food culture in the context of the religious ritual field, the differences between Hong Kong Catholic and Fujian Catholic communities begin to fade, and everyone is allowed to receive the Holy Body and the Holy Blood together. By getting gathered all together and by receiving the Holy Body and the Holy Blood, a religious community becomes more established, and that leads to the formation of a communion in the Church.
3.3. Separate Meals: Chinese Food and Western Food in Everyday Life
Jack Goody points out that food can vary among social classes (
Goody 1982). K.C. Chang indicates that, in each segment of Chinese food culture, food expresses social differences in social interactions in different ways (
Chang 1977, p. 16). Due to social class, the distinction between Fujian Catholics and Hong Kong Catholics is very clear (
Bourdieu 1996). In the eyes of Hong Kong Catholics, Fujian Catholics are illegal immigrants with a low level of education. And in the eyes of Fujian Catholics, Hong Kong Catholics always assume that they belong to a superior place within society and always look down on their fellow countrymen. Therefore, the difference between the two communities can be apparent, and there is little interaction between them in everyday life. This distinction has a direct impact on the ways food is symbolically approached in the church.
During the first and third weeks of each month, when the Mandarin Mass ends around 10:00 a.m., the Fujian Catholics go to the Pastoral Center for breakfast. Breakfast, in this case, is thin rice and twisted cruller; in other words, typical traditional Chinese food. Most of the Fujian Catholics entered America after the reform in 1978 through the illegal immigration route. Except for a few Fujian Catholics who opened their small restaurants, most of them work in Chinese restaurants in Chinatown. The Fujian Catholics congregate in Chinatown, Quincy, and Malden, where there are many Chinese and international students. The Fujian Catholics have retained their food culture habits, and many have difficulties integrating fully into the American food culture; they are more accustomed to the Chinese food culture. Uncle Zhang has been living in America for over twenty years and he is still used to Chinese food culture. After more than ten years of hard work, Uncle Zhang opened a Chinese restaurant in Morton, a suburb of Boston, where the frequent customers are Chinese students who rent rooms there. Once, Uncle Zhang took his grandson, who was holding a burger in his hand, to church. Uncle Zhang said, “children like to eat these things that Americans eat; we are older and still like to eat Chinese food. After all, we are Chinese.” In Uncle Zhang’s heart, Chinese food is not only a dietary preference but also an expression of Chinese identity. Whenever it was time for the Fujian community to gather for a meal, he would prepare thin rice and doughnuts at home and trust Catholics who lived in Morton to drive them over to the church.
In addition to what they eat, the Fujian Catholics retain traditional Chinese eating habits. When it comes to breakfast, the Fujian community has a strong preference for traditional Chinese food. Whenever rice and twisted crullers are brought out, they first share them with the elderly and children. What is more, everyone likes to help each other, and the atmosphere at the Pastoral Center Breakfast is particularly positive, making it very popular among the Fujian Catholics.
The Fujian community’s presence in the pastoral center is also an important social activity with the following main characteristics: information exchange, and practical and emotional support. The Fujian Catholics would exchange information about their recent lives, including what they had seen and heard when they returned to Fujian to visit their relatives, details about the lives of their relatives and friends in America, as well as about recent events in the Fujian immigrant community. Through this exchange of information, Fujian Catholics receive support about how to better organize their lives. Furthermore, they help each other. Fujian Catholics are working in Chinese restaurant, and they often share business information such as information on restaurant recruitment, details about restaurant owners’ attitudes towards employees, and other information. This provides essential help to Fujian Catholics who are looking for new job opportunities. At the same time, Fujian Catholics also exchange market information, such as supermarket discount sales, which can help them save on living expenses. Most importantly, Fujian Catholics often provide channels to hire lawyers or seek legal assistance to help them cope with illegal immigration investigations. Finally, due to their lower education level and social class level, Fujian Catholics find it difficult to integrate into American society. Living in a foreign country for a long time, in combination with high levels of pressure at work and low income, they generally feel that life is difficult and inevitably feel lonely and isolated. The regular gathering activities of the Fujianese community provide an opportunity for the Fujian Catholics to communicate and feel safe.
Therefore, during breakfast meetings, the Fujian community maintains the stability of religious faith and creates a space for Fujian Catholics to interact with each other. Thus, it gradually becomes a more united community.
Unlike the Fujian Catholics, the food culture of Hong Kong Catholics is more Western-oriented. Most Hong Kong Catholics who migrated to America were educated in America, later stayed in America to work, and became American citizens. Hong Kong Catholics work mainly as doctors, engineers, and teachers, and have a high income. In addition, the social status of Hong Kong Catholics gives them more opportunities to socialize, which enables them to integrate better into American society. In their everyday life, Hong Kong Catholics maintain an American way of life, with three meals a day based on Western-style dining. Therefore, before Sunday Mass, the long table in the church basement is set up in advance with bread, milk, coffee, and Western-style tea. Due to its special geographical location and history, Hong Kong is in the contact zone between Chinese and Western cultures and was exposed to Western society and Western civilization at an early stage. In addition, due to their familiarity with British culture, their food culture has many elements that come from Western-style dining. Most importantly, Western-style dining is not only a matter of dietary preference but also an expression of identity. After I became familiar with the Chinese Catholics in Boston, many Hong Kong Catholics also got to know me. There were several times when I was going to follow the Fujian Catholics to the Pastoral Center for breakfast. Jacob, a Hong Kong Catholic, stopped me and said, “you shouldn’t eat with those Fujianese. They like to eat Chinese food, which is different from American food. Besides, they are illegal immigrants and can’t integrate into American society. You should dine with us instead.” Apparently, in the eyes of Hong Kong Catholics, Western food culture is the American way of eating and has a cultural advantage over Chinese food. By following Western food habits, Hong Kong Catholics can be distinguished from Fujian Catholics.
Breakfast in the church basement follows the dietary norms of the West. While food is placed on a long table, the table is organized as a buffet where one would need to serve themselves. It would be considered rude to serve food to someone else. After breakfast, everyone must place their cutlery and leftovers separately, according to each disposal category. At the breakfast site, Hong Kong Catholics use their English names instead of their Chinese names, as Fujian Catholics do. In addition, Hong Kong Catholics are very concerned about personal privacy and do not easily reveal details about themselves and their families to others. Except for very close friends, their interactions are more on the level of pleasantries. For example, they often start with “Are you busy at work?” and “How are you?” to greet each other. The church basement breakfast, which is predominately attended by Hong Kong Catholics, is typical of the American lifestyle.
Hong Kong Catholics go to the church basement for breakfast every Sunday. Fujian Catholics go to the pastoral center for Chinese breakfast on the first and the third Sunday of each month, and on the second and fourth Sunday of the month, they also go to the church basement for Western breakfast. There are two main reasons for the Boston Chinese Catholic Church arranging it this way: one of them is to accommodate the Mass schedule. The Boston Chinese Catholic Church has a Cantonese Mass every Sunday, and on the Sunday of the first and the third week of the month, the church celebrates a separate Mandarin Mass for the Fujian Catholics an hour earlier. Thus, by the second and the fourth Sunday of the month, the Fujian Catholics could only attend the Cantonese Mass with the Hong Kong Catholics. Moreover, the Church wanted to increase the opportunity for communication between the Hong Kong community and the Fujian community by inviting them to have breakfast together. However, according to my observation, this initiative did not have the desired effect. The two communities are working separately, and cross-community exchanges are rare. Hong Kong Catholics communicate with Hong Kong Catholics, while Fujian Catholics bring their habits to the basement breakfast where they still exchange information and help each other serve the food. It can be observed that a deep-rooted barrier has been formed between Fujian Catholics and Hong Kong Catholics around food culture and food liturgy, and it is difficult to form an effective communication channel between them. After the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, discrimination among Overseas Chinese Catholics became more obvious. Hong Kong Catholics deliberately reduced their visits to having breakfast together with Fujian Catholics because they believed that their diet would create aggregation and increase the risk of virus transmission.