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Design and Optimisation of Green Scented Products

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A special issue of Molecules (ISSN 1420-3049). This special issue belongs to the section "Flavours and Fragrances".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2021) | Viewed by 31094

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Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Manuela Pintado

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor

Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, 4169-005 Porto, Portugal
Interests: biotechnology and biochemistry
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Dr. Patrícia Costa

E-Mail Website
Co-Guest Editor

Escola Superior de Biotecnologia da Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Porto, Portugal
Interests: flavors & fragrances; industrial by-products valorization; bioactives

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Natural and synthetic fragrant molecules are complex substances associated with positive emotional effects. However, the synthetic fragrant molecules used in many scented products have been associated with human allergic reactions, endocrine-disrupting properties, and negative environmental impacts linked with contaminated waterways. Concerned about these issues, consumers today prefer products scented with naturally sourced ingredients in their composition. Nevertheless, contrary to common belief, the production of many natural fragrances represents a higher negative environmental impact than the production of synthetic counterparts. In this context, innovative and sustainable ways to produce natural fragrances and greener extraction technologies have been proposed as an attempt to circumvent some of these problems, but there is still plenty of room for improvement in this regard.

Another complex and challenging issue is the performance of fragrances from scented formulations. This is because the creation of a successful scented product is not a simple procedure enclosed in pure artistic creativity; instead, it is a long, costly, and complex process, where a high number of ingredients with different physicochemical and psychophysical properties are combined, and dozens or even hundreds of combinations are tested until the desired scent is achieved. In fact, if a fragrance performs well in a certain product formulation it does not necessarily mean that it will also be successful in a different one. This justifies the need for further research in this field, developing technologies to improve and predict the performance of fragrances from complex mixtures.

Therefore, this Special Issue aims to highlight eco-friendly ingredients sourcing and extraction, innovative analytical methodologies to fingerprint the odor space of scented products, the development of sustainable scented formulations, and the sensory evaluation of consumer products. Discussions of fragrance delivery systems and technologies developed to protect and carry fragrant ingredients to the target point are encouraged.

Prof. Dr. Manuela Pintado
Guest Editor
Dr. Patrícia Costa
Co-Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2700 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

sustainably-grown plant species
fragrant molecules
green chemistry
fragrance performance
encapsulation
green formulations
sensory analysis

Published Papers (4 papers)

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Research

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10 pages, 3422 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Partitioning of Selected Anisole and Veratrole Derivatives between Water and Anionic Surfactant Micelles

by Andrzej Lewandowski and Katarzyna Szymczyk

Molecules 2020, 25(24), 5818; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25245818 - 9 Dec 2020

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 6952

Abstract

The UV absorption spectra of six structurally related derivatives of anisole and veratrole, i.e., anisaldehyde, (E)-anethole, estragole, veratraldehyde, methyleugenol and (E)-methylisoeugenol, were recorded at various concentrations of the anionic surfactants, either sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) at T = 298 K. In addition, conductivity and density measurements were made for the SLS and SLES solutions to determine the volumetric properties of the studied surfactants. Next, using the W. Al-Soufi, L. Pińeiro and M. Novo model (APN model) including the pseudo-phase model for micellar solubilization, the values of micelle-water partition coefficients for each perfume-surfactant system were determined. In addition, the relations between the molecular structures of the solute and the head group of the surfactant and the value of the micelle-water partition coefficient as well as the octanol-water one were discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Optimisation of Green Scented Products)

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17 pages, 2492 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Chemical Compositions of Essential Oils Derived from Cryptocarya alba and Laurelia sempervirens Possess Antioxidant, Antibacterial and Antitumoral Activity Potential

by Jorge Touma, Myriam Navarro, Betsabet Sepúlveda, Alequis Pavon, Gino Corsini, Katia Fernández, Claudia Quezada, Angelo Torres, María José Larrazabal-Fuentes, Adrian Paredes, Ivan Neira, Matías Ferrando, Flavia Bruna, Alejandro Venegas and Jessica Bravo

Molecules 2020, 25(23), 5600; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25235600 - 28 Nov 2020

Cited by 10 | Viewed by 3163

Abstract

Cryptocarya alba (Peumo; CA) and Laurelia sempervirens (Laurel; LS) are herbs native to the Chilean highlands and have historically been used for medicinal purposes by the Huilliches people. In this work, the essential oils were extracted using hydrodistillation in Clevenger apparatus and analyzed by GC-MS to determine their composition. The antioxidant capacity (AC) was evaluated in vitro. The cytotoxicity was determined using cell line cultures both non tumoral and tumoral. The toxicity was determined using the nematode Caenorhabditis elegans. The antimicrobial activity was evaluated against 52 bacteria using the agar disc diffusion method and the minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) were determined. The principal compounds found in C. alba essential oil (CA_EO) were α-terpineol (24.96%) and eucalyptol (21.63%) and were isazafrol (91.9%) in L. sempervirens essential oil (LS_EO). Both EOs showed antioxidant capacity in vitro. Both EO showed antibacterial activity against bacteria using. LS_EO showed more inhibitory effect on these cell lines respect to CA_EO. Both EOs showed toxicity against the nematode C.elegans at 3.12–50 mg/mL. The essential oils of CA and LS have an important bioactive potential in their antioxidant, antibacterial and cytotoxicity activity. Both essential oils could possibly be used in the field of natural medicine, natural food preservation, cosmetics, sanitation and plaguicides among others. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Optimisation of Green Scented Products)

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Graphical abstract

18 pages, 1778 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions

by Sara Bom, Manuel Fitas, Ana Margarida Martins, Pedro Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro and Joana Marto

Molecules 2020, 25(21), 4887; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules25214887 - 22 Oct 2020

Cited by 24 | Viewed by 6682

Abstract

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Optimisation of Green Scented Products)

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Graphical abstract

Review

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22 pages, 10462 KiB

Open AccessReview

Perfume and Flavor Engineering: A Chemical Engineering Perspective

by Alírio E. Rodrigues, Idelfonso Nogueira and Rui P. V. Faria

Molecules 2021, 26(11), 3095; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26113095 - 22 May 2021

Cited by 12 | Viewed by 12720

Abstract

In the last two decades, scientific methodologies for the prediction of the design, performance and classification of fragrance mixtures have been developed at the Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering. This review intends to give an overview of such developments. It all started with the question: what do we smell? The Perfumery Ternary Diagram enables us to determine the dominant odor for each perfume composition. Evaporation and 1D diffusion model is analyzed based on vapor-liquid equilibrium and Fick’s law for diffusion giving access to perfume performance parameters. The effect of matrix and skin is addressed and the trail of perfumes analyzed. Classification of perfumes with the perfumery radar is discussed. The methodology is extended to flavor and taste engineering. Finally, future research directions are suggested. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Design and Optimisation of Green Scented Products)

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