Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Materials and Methods
2.1. Chemicals and Reagents
2.2. Plant Materials
2.3. Preparation of C. sativa Bur Hydro-Alcoholic Extracts
2.4. Preparation of Hydrogels Containing C. sativa Bur Hydro-Alcoholic Extracts
2.5. Technological Characterization of Hydrogels
2.5.1. Colour Evaluation
2.5.2. Determination of pH
2.5.3. Determination of Moisture
2.5.4. Texture Analysis
2.5.5. Rheological Behaviour Analysis
2.6. Determination of Hydrogels Bioactive Compounds
2.6.1. Total Phenolic Content
2.6.2. Total Flavonoid Content
2.7. In Vitro Antioxidant Activity of Hydrogels
2.7.1. DPPH Free Radical Scavenging Assay
2.7.2. Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power Assay
2.8. Microbiological Properties
2.9. Stability Study
2.10. Statistical Analysis
3. Results and Discussion
3.1. Technological Characterization of Hydrogels
3.1.1. Colour Evaluation
3.1.2. Determination of pH
3.1.3. Determination of Moisture
3.1.4. Texture Analysis
3.1.5. Rheological Behaviour Analysis
3.2. Bioactive Compounds in Hydrogels
3.2.1. Total Phenolic Content
3.2.2. Total Flavonoid Content
3.3. In Vitro Antioxidant Activity of Hydrogels
3.3.1. DPPH Free Radical Scavenging Assay
3.3.2. Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power Assay
3.4. Correlation between Total Phenolic Content and Antioxidant Activity
3.5. Correlation between Total Flavonoid Content and Antioxidant Activity
3.6. Correlation between Total Phenolic and Total Flavonoid Contents
3.7. Microbiological Properties
3.8. Stability Study
4. Conclusions and Future Perspectives
Acknowledgments
Author Contributions
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Composition of Hydrogels | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Compounds | Total Weight (%) | |||
F1 | F2 | F3 | F4 | |
Glycerine | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
Carbopol® 940 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
Preservative | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
C. sativa bur hydro-alcoholic extract | - | 25 | 50 | 89 |
Triethanolamine | q.s. | q.s. | q.s | q.s. |
Deionized water | 89 | 64 | 39 | - |
Formulations | Technological Properties | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
L* (Lightness) | a* (Redness) | b* (Yellowness) | pH | Moisture (%) | Adhesiveness (N.mm) | Firmness (N) | ||
F1 | T0 | 10.69 ± 0.01 a | −0.64 ± 0.04 a | 3.37 ± 0.02 c | 4.46 ± 0.04 a | 30.69 ± 1.64 a | −1.480 ± 0.237 a | 0.554 ± 0.013 b |
T30/4 °C | 10.01 ± 0.05 c | −0.72 ± 0.06 a | 4.01 ± 0.04 a | 4.48 ± 0.01 a | 30.28 ± 0.70 a | −1.943 ± 0.232 a | 0.749 ± 0.023 a | |
T30/20 °C | 10.11 ± 0.01 b | −0.73 ± 0.04 a | 3.57 ± 0.02 b | 4.52 ± 0.01 a | 29.35 ± 0.55 a | −1.413 ± 0.220 a | 0.531 ± 0.031 b | |
F2 | T0 | 10.74 ± 0.02 c | 2.70 ± 0.08 a | 6.39 ± 0.06 b | 5.27 ± 0.03 a | 20.27 ± 0.39 a | −1.158 ± 0.148 a | 0.461 ± 0.020 a |
T30/4 °C | 10.93 ± 0.01 a | 2.65 ± 0.04 a | 6.71 ± 0.06 a | 5.00 ± 0.02 b | 20.01 ± 0.66 a | −1.193 ± 0.013 a | 0.471 ± 0.019 a | |
T30/20 °C | 10.83 ± 0.02 b | 2.74 ± 0.08 a | 6.51 ± 0.06 b | 4.99 ± 0.01 b | 20.12 ± 0.49 a | −1.029 ± 0.077 a | 0.429 ± 0.004 b | |
F3 | T0 | 10.31 ± 0.02 b | 0.43 ± 0.03 a | 3.03 ± 0.01 a | 5.67 ± 0.01 b | 15.43 ± 3.13 a | −0.932 ± 0.122 a | 0.367 ± 0.012 b |
T30/4 °C | 10.96 ± 0.02 a | 0.42 ± 0.02 a | 2.89 ± 0.02 c | 5.65 ± 0.01 b | 14.15 ± 0.53 a | −1.125 ± 0.033 b | 0.439 ± 0.011 a | |
T30/20 °C | 10.27 ± 0.02 b | 0.49 ± 0.03 a | 2.98 ± 0.01 b | 5.72 ± 0.01 a | 13.89 ± 0.73 a | −0.857 ± 0.035 a | 0.381 ± 0.005 b | |
F4 | T0 | 11.25 ± 0.02 c | −0.28 ± 0.09 a | 1.69 ± 0.01 c | 8.28 ± 0.01 b | 14.04 ± 0.63 a | −0.707 ± 0.082 a | 0.288 ± 0.008 a |
T30/4 °C | 12.44 ± 0.03 a | −0.15 ± 0.09 a | 1.96 ± 0.05 a | 8.69 ± 0.01 a | 14.03 ± 0.13 a | −0.659 ± 0.029 a | 0.259 ± 0.007 b | |
T30/20 °C | 11.32 ± 0.02 b | −0.35 ± 0.09 c | 1.78 ± 0.01 b | 8.21 ± 0.02 c | 13.99 ± 0.23 a | −0.679 ± 0.060 a | 0.261 ± 0.007 b |
Formulations | Bioactive Compounds | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
TPC (mg GAE/g gel) | TFC (mg CAE/g gel) | FRAP (µmol FSE/g gel) | DPPH (µg TE/g gel) | ||
F1 | T0 | 0.79 ± 0.01 a | 0.05 ± 0.01 a | 98.41 ± 7.65 a | 431.96 ± 7.71 a |
T30/4 °C | 0.82 ± 0.01 a | 0.06 ± 0.01 a | 85.05 ± 5.01 a | 395.01 ± 3.86 b | |
T30/20 °C | 0.69 ± 0.01 b | 0.06 ± 0.01 a | 76.71 ± 5.78 b | 280.46 ± 8.12 c | |
F2 | T0 | 2.48 ± 0.02 b | 0.31 ± 0.01 a | 509.17 ± 16.10 a | 658.37 ± 5.26 a |
T30/4 °C | 2.81 ± 0.01 a | 0.27 ± 0.01 b | 510.84 ± 13.25 a | 656.07 ± 10.11 a | |
T30/20 °C | 1.96 ± 0.01 c | 0.23 ± 0.01 c | 412.32 ± 16.10 b | 611.24 ± 10.21 b | |
F3 | T0 | 5.30 ± 0.01 a | 0.73 ± 0.01 a | 774.66 ± 10.43 a | 803.15 ± 12.71 a |
T30/4 °C | 4.41 ± 0.02 b | 0.69 ± 0.01 b | 727.91 ± 15.30 b | 795.03 ± 7.58 a | |
T30/20 °C | 3.48 ± 0.01 c | 0.63 ± 0.01 c | 714.55 ± 10.43 b | 745.91 ± 13.36 b | |
F4 | T0 | 9.65 ± 0.04 a | 1.23 ± 0.02 a | 1013.43 ± 12.61 a | 990.84 ± 14.06 a |
T30/4 °C | 8.00 ± 0.01 b | 1.16 ± 0.01 b | 1030.13 ± 18.97 a | 933.98 ± 11.58 b | |
T30/20 °C | 7.55 ± 0.04 c | 1.08 ± 0.02 c | 888.20 ± 12.61 b | 867.11 ± 11.57 c |
Formulations | Microbiological Properties | |||
---|---|---|---|---|
Total Aerobic Count (UFC/mL gel) | Total Mesophilic Aerobic Bacteria Count (UFC/mL gel) | Total Yeast and Mold Count (UFC/mL gel) | ||
F1 | T0 | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 |
T30/4 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
T30/20 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
F2 | T0 | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 |
T30/4 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
T30/20 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
F3 | T0 | ≤10 | ≤10 | 195 |
T30/4 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
T30/20 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 | |
F4 | T0 | ≤10 | 15 | 15 |
T30/4 °C | ≤10 | 25 | 30 | |
T30/20 °C | ≤10 | ≤10 | ≤10 |
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Pinto, D.; Braga, N.; Rodrigues, F.; Oliveira, M.B.P.P. Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040050
Pinto D, Braga N, Rodrigues F, Oliveira MBPP. Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient. Cosmetics. 2017; 4(4):50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040050
Chicago/Turabian StylePinto, Diana, Nair Braga, Francisca Rodrigues, and M. Beatriz P. P. Oliveira. 2017. "Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient" Cosmetics 4, no. 4: 50. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040050