Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050242

Authors: Yoshiaki Uchida Katsuya Sato Masayuki Ito Toshiya Sato

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induces hyperpigmentation and contributes to skin photoaging. Glutathione trisulphide (GSSSG), a naturally occurring supersulphide with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, has been shown to suppress α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis and improve skin brightness. However, its efficacy under physiologically relevant UVB-induced pigmentation conditions and its skin-brightening potential in human skin-like systems remain unclear. Therefore, this study evaluated the anti-melanogenic effects of GSSSG in UVB-stimulated melanogenesis and assessed its skin-brightening efficacy in a three-dimensional (3D) skin model while investigating the relationship between melanogenesis and intracellular endogenous supersulphide levels. UVB irradiation increased melanin production while decreasing intracellular supersulphide levels. GSSSG suppressed UVB-induced melanogenesis and restored intracellular supersulphide levels. Furthermore, Cars2 knockdown reduced intracellular supersulphide levels and melanin production, suggesting a role for endogenous supersulphides in pigmentation. In addition, 0.1% GSSSG significantly improved skin brightness in a 3D skin model. These findings demonstrate the efficacy of GSSSG in both UVB-induced melanogenesis and a human skin-like model and suggest that supersulphides play context-dependent roles in melanogenesis, suppressing excessive pigmentation while supporting physiological melanin synthesis.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050241

Authors: Roxana-Georgiana Taușer Oana-Maria Chirliu Maria Apotrosoaei Florentina-Geanina Lupașcu Bianca-Ștefania Profire Andreea-Teodora Iacob Ioana-Mirela Vasincu Dan Lupașcu Lenuța Profire

The rapid transition toward real-world personalized skincare strategies is based on the integration of molecular pathway analysis, laboratory skin models, advanced technologies, clinical data, (epi)genomics testing, and AI. In this perspective, we designed a prospective, exploratory, uncontrolled pilot study with an educational component, integrating genetic testing of relevant skin-aging biomarkers and telomere length with AI and a phenotypic questionnaire to provide individualized skincare guidance. Our study also aimed to implement an innovative academic teaching method based on this integrative patient-centered skin health; therefore, we enrolled 44 students from the Faculty of Pharmacy Iasi. We present the genetic profiling of all 44 subjects according to genetic biomarkers for extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging (ASIP and SOD2 polymorphisms, respectively), while a telomere length analysis was conducted only for 20 enrolled participants due to financial constraints at the study’s initiation. Based on the possible combination of these polymorphisms, we performed a genetic stratification of the study cohort. After the integration of the genetic results with the individual responses, and with Perfect AI assessment performed for the whole cohort, we provided optimized skincare counselling to all 44 enrolled subjects ; here, we selected some case reports as examples of personalized skincare routines and cosmetic ingredients for each genotype segment. Our pilot exploratory study finished up with a follow-up questionnaire and a satellite workshop on ethical aspects. Finally, we compared the design and insights of our pilot study with those of other cosmetic clinical trials that focus on integrative patient-tailored skincare.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050240

Authors: Jinjin Liu Qian Wang Jialin Zhong Xiaoqing Wang Haidong Jia Yushu Wang Yuanyuan Chen Runshuang Lu Gang Ma

Objective: Ablative fractional laser (AFL) therapy impairs epidermal barrier integrity through the disruption of stratum corneum lipids and keratinocyte differentiation, resulting in increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and delayed functional recovery. This study aims to develop a more effective barrier repair strategy and evaluate the efficacy of topical safflower seed oil (SSO) in promoting post-AFL barrier restoration. Methods: An optimized murine AFL model (20 W, 0.5 ms pulse delay, and 0.7 mm spot spacing) was established to investigate skin repair mechanisms. SSO composition was characterized by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Epidermal repair was assessed using confocal laser scanning microscopy, while Oil Red O staining and immunofluorescence were employed to evaluate lipid formation and the expression of lipid synthesis-related genes, respectively. Results: GC-MS analysis identified SSO as a rich natural source of linoleic acid (69.1%) and oleic acid (18.7%). Over the 7-day period of AFL exposure alone, TEWL rose by 4–6 fold in mouse skin, accompanied by a near-complete loss of epidermal lipid synthesis. However, upon SSO administration, a marked reduction in TEWL was observed from day 1, and epidermal lipid synthesis recovered by day 7. Moreover, SSO treatment significantly upregulated epidermal PPARγ expression in AFL-injured skin. Pharmacological inhibition of PPARγ (T0070907) largely abrogated the lipid synthesis and barrier repair effects of SSO, while PPARα antagonism (GW6471) showed no obvious interference with SSO’s therapeutic efficacy, suggesting a potential association between PPARγ signaling modulation and SSO-mediated skin barrier restoration. Conclusions: These findings suggest that SSO is a promising natural agent for post-AFL skin care, which improves AFL-impaired skin barrier function by remodeling lipid metabolism, at least in part through PPARγ signaling, and warrants further preclinical and clinical investigation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050239

Authors: José de Jesús Rodríguez-Aleriano Odessa Magallón-Chávez Jose Navarro-Partida Luisa Fernanda Briones-Márquez Edgar J. López-Naranjo Juan Antonio Rivas-Loaiza

Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) has emerged as a promising bioactive biomaterial with broad applications in regenerative medicine because of its anti-inflammatory, angiogenic, and tissue-repair properties. Traditionally obtained from salmonid sperm DNA, it has been reported to promote tissue regeneration primarily by activating adenosine A2A receptors and the nucleotide salvage pathway, thereby stimulating fibroblast proliferation, extracellular matrix remodeling, collagen synthesis, and angiogenesis. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the biochemical characteristics, mechanisms of action, extraction methods, and translational potential of PDRN from different biological sources. In addition to conventional animal-derived PDRN, recent advances have introduced plant-derived (PhytoPDRN) and microbial- or algae-derived alternatives, offering improved sustainability, scalability, and reduced environmental impact. Preliminary in vitro evidence suggests that these emerging sources may exhibit regenerative and antioxidant activities; however, differences in molecular characteristics, experimental models, and study designs currently preclude establishing biological or clinical equivalence with salmon-derived PDRN. Finally, the translational perspectives, industrial challenges, and future research directions are analyzed, highlighting the need for standardized manufacturing processes, comparative clinical trials, and sustainable production strategies. Overall, PDRN is a DNA-derived biomaterial of growing interest in regenerative medicine and cosmetic applications. At the same time, novel biological sources may contribute to the development of more sustainable and clinically effective next-generation PDRN-based therapies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050238

Authors: Yuan Cao Jun Wang Yongkuan Pan Liming Hou Yan Jin Changwei Cai Fuquan Jiang Quan-Cheng Chen

Dermatological senescence, characterized by functional deterioration and the accumulation of senescent fibroblasts, has prompted the investigation of safe and effective anti-ageing agents. The present study investigates the role of Tripeptide-3 (T-3) and Hexapeptide-9 (H-9) in countering D-galactose-induced senescence in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Using a D-gal-induced senescence model, we found that non-cytotoxic concentrations of T-3 and H-9, both individually and in combination, led to a substantial reduction in senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity and concomitant downregulation of p21 expression. Notably, the combination exhibited superior anti-senescence effects. Mechanistically, both peptides activated the AMPKα pathway by increasing phosphorylation at Thr172, with their combination showing enhanced activation. It is of particular significance that the AMPKα inhibitor Compound C served to nullify these protective effects, thereby establishing AMPKα activation as a critical contributing pathway in the combined anti-senescence effect of T-3 and H-9. This study provides novel evidence that T-3 and H-9 inhibit fibroblast senescence via AMPKα activation, thus providing a mechanistic basis for the development of peptide-based anti-ageing skincare formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050237

Authors: Seul-Ki Mun Jin-Yeong Choi Si-Eun Lee Kyung-Yun Kang Yun-Seo Oh Jeong-Ho Kim Jun-Ki Park Ho-Yeol Jang Beom-Gyun Jeong Mi-Rim Jang Jang-Mi Suk Kyung-Wuk Park

Oxidative stress contributes to hair follicle degeneration by inducing inflammation and apoptosis in dermal papilla cells. This study investigated whether Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation enhances the anti-hair loss potential of Laminaria japonica (kelp) by-products by improving their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and cytoprotective activities. Fermentation significantly increased the superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity of kelp. In H2O2-stimulated human hair follicle dermal papilla cells, fermented kelp culture (KF) dose-dependently protected against oxidative-stress-induced cytotoxicity, reduced IL-6 and IL-8 secretion, inhibited NFκB phosphorylation, restored insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) expression, enhanced AKT phosphorylation, reduced Bax expression, and restored total caspase-3 expression. These findings indicate that KF attenuates oxidative-stress-induced inflammation and apoptosis while preserving dermal papilla cell function. A four-week application study further showed that a shampoo containing KF reduced hair loss and improved hair gloss, scalp sebum, and scalp scaling. Together, these findings suggest that S. cerevisiae fermentation enhances the biological activity of kelp by-products and supports the potential of KF as a functional cosmetic ingredient for anti-hair loss applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050236

Authors: Sarocha Chareegun Wantida Chaiyana

Background/Objectives: This study investigated the potential of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) to improve the in vitro skin delivery and retention of bioactive compounds derived from Bombyx mori silk cocoon. Furthermore, an NLC-based facial serum was developed and clinically evaluated for its efficacy and safety. Methods: Silk cocoons from Nang Lai (NL) and Lueang Saraburi (LS) were extracted using aqueous and enzymatic methods. Extracts were evaluated for protein, phenolic, and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, collagenase inhibition, and irritation potential. The most active extract was incorporated into NLCs and assessed for their physicochemical properties, entrapment efficiency, release, and Strat-M® membrane permeation and retention. The selected NLC was subsequently incorporated into a facial serum and clinically evaluated in 30 volunteers over 28 days for its effects on skin hydration and roughness using a Corneometer® and Visioscan®, respectively. Results: Enzymatic extraction markedly increased phenolic and flavonoid contents, resulting in stronger antioxidant and collagenase inhibitory activities than aqueous extraction. LS enzymatic extract (LS-EN) exhibited the most favorable overall bioactivities and was selected for NLC formulation, which showed a particle size of 149 ± 1 nm, low polydispersity index (0.263 ± 0.05), a zeta potential of −48 ± 1 mV, and an entrapment efficiency of 83%. Compared with the solution, the NLCs showed sustained release and approximately 3.7-fold higher membrane retention (5.45 ± 0.59% versus 1.47 ± 0.59%). The NLC-based facial serum demonstrated good skin tolerability and high user satisfaction, with skin moisture increasing by 7.05% and skin roughness significantly decreasing by 6.74–7.29% after 28 days of application (p < 0.05). Conclusions: Enzymatic extraction combined with NLC encapsulation enhanced the cosmeceutical potential of silk cocoon bioactive by enabling sustained release and localized retention, while the NLC-based facial serum demonstrated good skin tolerability and improved skin hydration and roughness, supporting its potential as a promising anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050235

Authors: Aknarin Anatachodwanit Wuttichai Jaidee Setinee Chanpirom Thapakorn Tree-Udom Benjaporn Noppradit Punita Thammachot Nann Kain Kham Cholpisut Tantapakul Naphatsorn Ditthawutthikul Rawiwan Charoensup Chittipong Tipbunjong Maria Pilar Vinardell Tawanun Sripisut

Onion (Allium cepa L.) is one of the most widely cultivated vegetables worldwide, while its leaves are discarded as agricultural waste despite being a valuable source of bioactive compounds. This study aims to investigate anti-aging cosmetic potential of onion leaf extract obtained by microwave-assisted extraction (MAE). Under optimized conditions (50% ethanol, 50 °C, 15 min, and a 1:20 solid-to-solvent ratio), the total flavonoid content obtained by MAE was approximately 1.34-fold higher than that achieved by conventional maceration. HPLC analysis of the extract identified and quantified quercetin as a major constituent (2.51 ± 0.02 mg/g sample), while LC-QTOF-MS profiling identified 56 bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and sulfur-containing groups. The extract showed a total phenolic content of 45.1 ± 1.47 mg GAE/g sample, total flavonoid content of 13.2 ± 2.52 mg QE/g sample, antioxidant activity (DPPH IC50 = 97.1 ± 7.12 µg/mL), anti-glycation activity (IC50 = 213 ± 4.6 µg/mL), tyrosinase inhibitory activity (IC50 = 50.66 ± 2.52 µg/mL), and anti-collagenase activity (IC50 of 2.84 ± 0.03 mg/mL). Cell-based assays using human keratinocytes (HaCat) cells demonstrated that the extract was non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 100 µg/mL after 24 and 48 h of exposure. Furthermore, cells treated with the extract showed visually lower H2DCFDA fluorescence following hydrogen peroxide exposure, suggesting a possible reduction in intracellular ROS accumulation. Overall, onion leaves represent a promising natural source of bioactive compounds and could be valorized as a potentially anti-aging cosmetic ingredient.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050234

Authors: Youngrin Kwag Seok Hwan Oh Sang hyun Kim Ji Hwoon Baek HuiJeong Jeong YooRi Kang Hongseok Kim Wonkyu Hong

Skin hydration is not uniform: it is low at the surface and rises with depth, and the standard capacitance probe (Corneometer) samples only the outermost layer. How the surface–deep relationship evolves under repeated moisturizer use is not captured by a single metric. Using the Hydration Gap Index (HGI = |surface − deep (0.5 mm)|), this relationship was tracked in 22 healthy adults, measuring surface hydration (Corneometer) and depth-resolved deep hydration (Moisturemeter D; 0.5–5.0 mm) at baseline, after one application, and after two weeks. Surface hydration rose sharply after one application (30.9 → 64.0 A.U.), then partially declined by two weeks (43.5 A.U.; all p < 0.001), whereas deeper readings were essentially unchanged (≤5.1%), consistent with a stable deep compartment. The per-subject surface–deep gap first widened (13.1 → 18.0) then narrowed to ≈5.1 A.U. (19/22 subjects; group-mean 2.0). Surface and deep compartments varied independently (baseline r = −0.14; change r = +0.05), and the surface-dominant response was reproduced with a different surface instrument in the same cohort (surface +102%, deep +4%). The apparent depth gradient steepened only through this shallow-layer gain (−3.66 → −3.93 A.U./mm, p < 0.0001). Thus, repeated use reflected equilibration of the superficial layer toward the 0.5 mm compartment, not a uniform rise; the HGI provides a compact index of this surface-to-deep equilibration.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050233

Authors: Sirigoon Kuamsub Yothin Teethaisong Suwipa Intakhiao Thirapit Subongkot Thanchanok Sirirak Kulwara Poolpol Waranurin Yisarakun Piyapong Prasertsri

This study characterized the in vitro properties of a Hom pathum rice extract and explored the clinical performance of a facial mask containing the extract. In this single-center, assessor-blinded, two-arm randomized controlled trial, 60 patch-test-negative healthy adults aged 30–50 years were allocated 1:1 to a no-treatment control group or to a treatment group that applied a multi-ingredient facial mask containing 0.27% (w/w) Hom pathum rice extract for 30 min twice weekly for 12 weeks. Hydration, elasticity, oiliness, melanin, and erythema were assessed at the forehead, cheek, and chin. Complete-case week-12 comparisons used ANCOVA adjusted for the corresponding baseline value, age, and sex, followed by Benjamini–Hochberg correction across the 15 between-group comparisons. Forty-nine participants completed follow-up (control, 24; treatment, 25). The ethanolic extract showed 55% DPPH radical-scavenging activity, an IC50 of 2.29 ± 0.02 mg/mL, and a total phenolic content of 0.01 ± 0.00 mg GAE/mg extract; total flavonoids were below the assay detection limit at 5 mg/mL. Six comparisons were nominally significant, of which three remained significant after false-discovery-rate correction: higher forehead hydration (adjusted mean difference, 9.42 AU; 95% CI, 2.79 to 16.06; p = 0.007; q = 0.033), lower chin oiliness (−33.15 μg/cm2; 95% CI, −52.40 to −13.89; p = 0.001; q = 0.022), and lower cheek melanin (−68.65 AU; 95% CI, −112.89 to −24.41; p = 0.003; q = 0.026). However, none of the 15 comparisons reached nominal or FDR-adjusted significance in the intention-to-treat multiple-imputation sensitivity analysis (all p ≥ 0.092). No intervention-related adverse effects were recorded among the enrolled patch-test-negative participants. These findings apply to the formulation and application procedure as a whole and were not statistically confirmed in the intention-to-treat sensitivity analysis; they therefore warrant confirmation in an adequately powered, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial with a prespecified primary outcome. ClinicalTrials.gov: NCT06475222. Funding: Burapha University, Thailand Science Research and Innovation, and the National Science Research and Innovation Fund.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050232

Authors: Kyong Jin Lee Mi-Jin Lee Hari Jang Woo-Yong Song Eunjandi Go Hyun Min Kim Boo-Sik Jang

Hydrolyzed collagen preparations have attracted increasing attention because their biological properties may vary according to collagen source, peptide composition, and physicochemical characteristics. In this study, Richi I II III Collagen (HTCP), a hydrolyzed type I, II, and III collagen preparation derived from chicken sternum (keel) and manufactured by CNABIOTECH Co., Ltd. (Cheongju-si, Republic of Korea), was physicochemically characterized and evaluated for antioxidant and skin-related biological activities. Physicochemical characterization included analyses of amino acid composition and molecular weight distribution, while biological activities were assessed using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays and human skin cell-based models. HTCP showed distinct responses in the two radical scavenging assays, with ABTS radical scavenging activity reaching 80.4 ± 0.0% at 100 mg/mL, whereas DPPH radical scavenging activity remained comparatively low (13.1 ± 4.6%). No cytotoxicity was detected in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) or human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKn) at the concentrations tested. HTCP exhibited 101.65 ± 1.28% collagenase inhibition at 10% and significantly increased type I collagen, type III collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid (HA), HAS2, and HAS3 levels, while reducing MMP-1 and HYAL1 levels. Collectively, these findings demonstrate changes in selected ECM- and HA-related protein levels in human skin cells following HTCP treatment under in vitro conditions, supporting further investigation of HTCP as a collagen-derived ingredient for skin-related applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050231

Authors: Franz J. Wortmann Jessica Welzel Leila Berriche Svitlana Sirenko Gabriele Wortmann Volkmar Vill

The fatigue failure (F/F) test is an important method for evaluating hair strength. In this study, we evaluate commercial European hair after up to four bleaches. F/F-data were directly fitted using a two-parameter cumulative Weibull distribution (CWD) function, described by lifetime index (λ) and shape factor (β). Fibre samples taken from treated tresses (T) exhibited stable F/F behaviour across multiple treatments, while treated single fibres (S) showed early breakage if treated more than twice. We attribute this effect mainly to the liquor ratio during treatment. In this context, we suggest a strategy to estimate a treatment-related apparent decay constant for λ. The constant for T-samples was determined as kn = 0.095. This is consistent with DSC results in the literature for the denaturation enthalpy. This may indicate an important role for intermediate filaments in fatigue failure. To possibly establish a link with hair breakage during combing, we investigated the properties of the hazard function for T-samples based on β = 0.92. The model calculations indicate that early failure risks are low but increase exponentially with repeated bleaches. The correspondence with the literature results leads to the hypothesis of a relationship between F/F and combing tests.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050230

Authors: Paula Juliana Eraso-Calvachi Isabella Rivera-Montoya Daniela Bustamante-López Juan Camilo Mejía-Giraldo

Formaldehyde is a chemical compound historically used for its antimicrobial and preservative properties. Due to its classification as a carcinogen and skin sensitizer, its use in cosmetics is restricted; however, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are still permitted under specific conditions. The release of formaldehyde in cosmetic products may be influenced by factors such as temperature, storage time, and formulation matrix, raising potential safety and regulatory concerns. In this study, a full factorial design was applied to evaluate formaldehyde release in aqueous solutions at 40, 70, and 90 °C over 15, 30, and 60 min. In cosmetic matrices, temperatures of 40 and 70 °C were assessed at 0, 15, 30, and 60 min. Additionally, a three-month accelerated stability study was conducted to evaluate formaldehyde release over time in three different formulations. Formaldehyde release increased with both temperature and time in aqueous solutions, with diazolidinyl urea showing the highest levels, followed by DMDM hydantoin and imidazolidinyl urea. In cosmetic matrices, lower release levels were observed compared to aqueous systems; however, all formulations exceeded the 0.001% threshold established by European regulations. Under accelerated stability conditions, the emulsion exhibited the highest formaldehyde release, which may be associated with increased water availability promoting preservative hydrolysis. Overall, formaldehyde release was influenced by preservative structure, formulation matrix, temperature, and time. These findings highlight the importance of considering formulation composition and storage conditions in the evaluation of formaldehyde-releasing preservatives and may be relevant for safety assessment and regulatory compliance.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050229

Authors: Cristina Romera-de Blas Alba Gómez-Zubiaur Rocío Gil-Redondo Juan Francisco Mir-Bonafé Natalia Aranda-Sánchez David Vega-Díez José María Ricart-Vayá

Mechanical forces generated by hairstyling practices are recognised causes of hair and scalp disorders, particularly traction alopecia, but the effects of prolonged, localised exposure to hairstyling accessories remain poorly characterised. We conducted a multicentre retrospective study of 10 women evaluated at five centres with chronic localised alopecia anatomically corresponding to the site of repeated accessory contact, analysing clinical, trichoscopic, histopathological and outcome data. Mean age was 51.3 years and mean disease duration 5.8 years; nine patients had vertex involvement, and one had an interparietal patch. Trichoscopy showed vellus hairs, with variable broken hairs, black and yellow dots, dystrophic, bent and coiled hairs, perifollicular casts and loss of follicular openings. Histopathology, available in seven patients, showed scarring alopecia in four and non-scarring alopecia in three. Implicated exposures included hairpins, clips, buns, rollers and a hair prosthesis. After accessory removal and variable treatment, four patients showed partial regrowth, four remained stable, one worsened, and follow-up was unavailable for one. The anatomical correspondence between alopecic patches and accessory exposure, with overlapping pressure, traction and friction-related features, is consistent with a proposed mixed mechanical injury from chronic low-intensity stress. Recognising hairstyling accessories as a potential cause of localised alopecia may facilitate diagnosis and prevent progression to irreversible damage.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050228

Authors: Foong Weng Kei Shanxi Alexandra Jen Jessica Lee Ling Jing Steven Thng Tien Guan

Background: Melasma is a common pigmentary disorder, for which Kligman’s Formula is a standard topical therapy, though adverse effects limit prolonged use. Cosmeceutical alternatives with antioxidant properties may present potential benefits for long-term management. Aims: To compare the efficacy of a cosmeceutical cream containing Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) extract with Kligman’s Formula in the treatment of facial melasma. Methods: In this single-blind, split-face, pilot randomized controlled trial, patients with melasma received either Kligman’s Formula or the tomato extract-based cosmeceutical cream for 56 days. Main outcomes were changes in modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI) and Melasma Severity Scale (MSS) scores. Safety was assessed based on the incidence of adverse events. Results: Both creams significantly reduced mMASI scores after 56 days (Kligman’s Formula: −1.394, p < 0.001; cosmeceutical cream: −1.471, p < 0.001), suggestive of comparable efficacy, as this pilot study was not formally powered for non-inferiority testing, this finding should be interpreted as hypothesis-generating. MSS scores were not statistically analyzed due to the ordinal, small-range nature of the data. The proportion of patients with moderate to severe melasma (MSS ≥ 2) decreased by day 56 for both treatments. At day 56, patient-rated MSS scores ≥ 2 declined from 100% to 59.3% with Kligman’s Formula and from 96.3% to 66.7% with the cosmeceutical cream. Reported adverse events were mild and self-limiting in both groups. Conclusions: Preliminary findings suggest the cosmeceutical cream containing Solanum lycopersicum is comparable to Kligman’s Formula in improving melasma severity. Its antioxidant-rich, well-tolerated profile in this short-term pilot warrants further investigation as a potential safe option for long-term or adjunctive therapy in melasma.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050227

Authors: Wafaa Uthman Ahmed Bafreen hawez Hamadameen Dastan Abdullah Salih Shukur Wasman Smail Abubakr Mohammed Amin Mohammed Awat Ali

Background: Caesarean section is associated with postoperative pain and wound-related morbidity. Topical agents that promote early wound healing may enhance postoperative recovery. This randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial evaluated the effect of HealFast Silver Ointment on pain and early wound-healing parameters after Caesarean section. Methods: Two hundred women who underwent Caesarean section were randomly allocated into two groups: a placebo group and a HealFast Silver Ointment group, each consisting of 100 women. The intervention was applied topically three times daily for three weeks. Outcomes were assessed at baseline, week 1, and week 3, and included pain intensity using the Visual Analogue Scale, transepidermal water loss, tissue oxygenation assessment, and wound surface morphology using Visioscan. Results: Baseline characteristics were comparable between groups. At week 3, the Visual Analogue Scale score decreased from 8.13 ± 0.93 to 1.33 ± 0.71 in the treated group, compared with 8.15 ± 1.47 to 7.03 ± 1.95 in the placebo group. Transepidermal water loss decreased from 34.13 ± 6.89 to 6.84 ± 3.99 in the treated group, compared with 32.70 ± 6.67 to 30.77 ± 6.69 in the placebo group. O2C increased from 40.08 ± 6.36 to 57.48 ± 7.19 in the treated group, compared with 40.80 ± 6.70 to 45.00 ± 6.84 in the placebo group. Significant time × group interactions were observed for the main clinical and physiological outcomes. Conclusions: HealFast Silver Ointment was associated with reduced postoperative pain, improved epidermal barrier recovery, increased tissue oxygenation, and improved wound surface morphology during the first three weeks after Caesarean section. Larger registered multicenter trials with longer follow-ups are needed to confirm these findings.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050226

Authors: Haijun Zheng Yanmiao Li Kaixin Wu Ting Ouyang Nian Fu Qinfang Zheng Zhiyong Cai Yi Liu

Titanium dioxide, a traditional physical sunscreen agent, has long faced persistent challenges related to light transmission (manifesting as whitening and an unnatural white cast on the skin), high photocatalytic activity, and cytocompatibility concerns. In this work, a composite sunscreen material, mesoporous silica (MSN)@TiO2, was designed and synthesized by loading titanium dioxide (TiO2) onto dendritic mesoporous silica. Leveraging the high transparency of dendritic mesoporous silica, MSN@TiO2 exhibits 30% higher visible light transmittance than commercially available titanium dioxide. In addition, encapsulation within the silica carrier reduces the photocatalytic activity of MSN@TiO2 to one-seventh of that of commercially available titanium dioxide. Furthermore, we evaluated the cytocompatibility of MSN@TiO2. Cell Counting Kit-8 (CCK-8) assay results demonstrate that MSN@TiO2 has a less pronounced effect on L929 cells proliferation compared with commercial TiO2, indicating favorable L929 cell-based cytocompatibility. This strategy demonstrates that MSN@TiO2 combines a natural appearance with low photocatalytic activity, offering distinct advantages over conventional titanium dioxide in composite sunscreen materials.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050225

Authors: HwaJeong Ryu Ho Jae Lim Jung Eun Park

Skin pigmentation is regulated by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and is closely associated with melanogenesis and cellular homeostasis. Autophagy is a cellular self-digestion process that contributes to homeostatic regulation, but its role in melanogenesis remains to be further clarified. This study investigated whether berberine chloride (BBC), an isoquinoline alkaloid, modulates melanin production through autophagy-related signaling in B16-F1 melanoma cells. Tyrosinase activity was examined by tyrosinase zymography, extracellular melanin levels in the culture supernatant were measured after BBC treatment, and the expression of melanogenesis-, mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)-, and autophagy-related proteins was analyzed by Western blotting. BBC inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced extracellular melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. BBC also increased phosphorylated extracellular signal-regulated kinase (p-ERK) levels while decreasing melanogenesis-related protein expression. In addition, BBC modulated MAPK signaling and the expression of autophagy-associated proteins. Small interfering RNA-mediated knockdown of Atg5, Beclin1, or ERK partially restored extracellular melanin levels in BBC-treated cells. These findings suggest that BBC suppresses melanogenesis in B16-F1 melanoma cells in association with ERK and autophagy-related signaling.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050224

Authors: Oraphan Anurukvorakun Witchuda Sukjoi Jaroenporn Chokboribal

This study optimized a Thai herbal blend inhibiting tyrosinase and evaluated its delivery in niosomal serum versus a corresponding non-niosomal (free extract) serum. The physicochemical properties, antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibitory activities, stability, and clinical effects of the two serums were assessed in an 8-week study in healthy volunteers. Herbal combinations were screened using a two-level, five-factor design with tyrosinase inhibition as the response, and the optimized extract ratio (3:2:3:2:2, w/w) was incorporated into conventional, liposomal, and niosomal formulations. Vesicle characterization and in vitro performance supported the niosomal serum for clinical comparison with the corresponding non-niosomal product. The niosomal serum showed appreciable DPPH radical-scavenging activity (IC50 32 mg/mL), whereas the conventional serum exhibited the highest tyrosinase inhibition (IC50 8.3 mg/mL). Clinically, 30 of 50 randomized volunteers completed the 8-week trial and were included in the efficacy analysis. The niosomal serum produced more consistent improvements in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss, with significant benefits over the non-niosomal (free extract) serum at selected mid-to-late time points. Erythema decreased significantly with both formulations, whereas melanin reduction was modest. These findings support the use of niosomal formulations containing combined Thai herbal extracts as a practical strategy to enhance moisturization and barrier support in skincare formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050223

Authors: Yiwen Li Feng Cao Qianwen Fan Xi Yang Yulan Qu Xiangjun Gong Jian Cao Guangwen He Robert Maidhof Huanjun Zhou

Glycation and reactive carbonyl stress are protein-modifying processes associated with skin aging, but how they alter local tissue mechanics and deformation-prone behavior remains unclear. Here, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) and three-dimensional (3D) collagen gels were used as epidermal-like and collagen-rich skin surrogate compartments. Nanoindentation mapping showed that accelerated glycation and carbonyl stress increased the effective Young’s modulus and stiffness heterogeneity in both models, with 2.34–5.85-fold increases in the mean modulus and 1.09–1.31-fold increases in normalized neighbor contrast across four treatment–model combinations: glycated RHE, glycated 3D collagen gel, carbonyl-stressed RHE and carbonyl-stressed 3D collagen gel. Nanoindentation-derived stiffness profiles were incorporated into reduced-order virtual bilayer nonlinear post-buckling simulations. Under imposed end-shortening strains of 1%, 5%, and 10%, glycation- and carbonyl-stress-informed bilayers showed increased predicted peak curvature and localized folding index values. Profile-control simulations were then used to separate average stiffening from spatial stiffness variation. Uniform-mean profiles failed to reproduce the curvature localization response, whereas heterogeneity-preserving mean-matched profiles retained elevated curvature-based outputs. These findings suggest that spatial stiffness heterogeneity, rather than stiffening alone, contributes to predicted curvature localization in skin surrogate bilayers. Beyond mechanistic insight, the nanoindentation–simulation workflow may provide a mechanics-based readout for evaluating prospective cosmetic interventions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050222

Authors: Kodpaka Lueadnakrob Suttida Changprasoed Thitichaya Prakobwaitayakit Saranya Juntrapirom Watchara Kanjanakawinkul Wantida Chaiyana

Background: Chemical hair dyes provide effective and durable coloration but are frequently associated with hair damage and irritation. Therefore, this study aimed to develop herbal-based hair dye products that combine effective coloration with low irritation potential. Methods: The combination of Lawsonia inermis, Clitoria ternatea, and Indigofera tinctoria was incorporated into different formulations (solution, shampoo, and conditioner) and evaluated for physicochemical properties, accelerated stability, and hair dyeing performance. The effects of herbal mixture concentration (10, 20, and 30% w/w) were further investigated for hair dyeing, foaming properties, washing fastness, and color stability under ambient natural-light conditions. The most suitable shampoo was evaluated for irritation potential using the hen’s egg test–chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) assay, hair morphology by scanning electron microscopy, and hair chemical characteristics using Fourier-transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. Results: Herbal hair dye formulations were successfully developed. Although the solution achieved the greatest hair dyeing performance, the shampoo provided more practical convenience. Increasing the herbal mixture concentration significantly enhanced dyeing performance, with the 30% w/w formulation producing the greatest dyeing performance, with stable color maintained after five washing cycles and excellent resistance to light-induced fading. Interestingly, the herbal shampoo exhibited significantly lower irritation potential than the chemical hair dye shampoo (irritation score: 4.9 ± 0.4 vs. 14.2 ± 0.4, p < 0.05) and better-preserved hair cuticle integrity. FT-IR analysis showed retention of major keratin-associated bands, indicating no complete disruption of the fundamental keratin structure. Conclusions: The herbal hair dye shampoo offers a promising alternative to conventional hair dye, providing effective and durable hair coloration with favorable preservation of hair surface morphology and lower irritation potential.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050221

Authors: Ornella Rossi Giovanna Perrotti Massimo Del Fabbro Tiziano Testori

Background: Non-invasive energy-based technologies, including high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) and fractional radiofrequency microneedling (RF-MN), are increasingly used for facial rejuvenation due to their ability to induce dermal remodeling and neocollagenesis, although evidence on combined protocols remains limited. Objective: To evaluate the clinical outcomes and safety of a combined treatment protocol using HIFU and RF-MN delivered via the Focus Dual® device for facial skin rejuvenation in patients with moderate-to-severe photo- and chrono-aging. Methods: This observational case series included 37 patients (52–85 years) treated with a combined regimen of HIFU and RF-MN over a 6-month period, consisting of two HIFU sessions and six RF-MN sessions; clinical outcomes were assessed using the Wrinkle Assessment Scale (WAS) across 11 facial anatomical regions and the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), with evaluations performed on standardized photographs by two blinded independent assessors and safety monitored throughout. Statistical analysis was primarily descriptive and exploratory, including calculation of mean WAS scores, absolute and relative changes, inter-rater reliability assessment, and Pearson’s correlation analysis. Results: The combined treatment was associated with a measurable improvement in wrinkle severity, with median global WAS decreasing from 4.53 at baseline to 3.98 post-treatment, corresponding to a 12.1% overall improvement; the greatest improvements were observed in anatomically lax regions such as the cheeks (25.36%), periorbital lines (25.14%), nasolabial folds (23.92%), neck (23.77%), and marionette lines (21.36%) and corner of mouth lines (20.98%), while dynamic regions such as the glabellar and frontal areas showed a more limited response; a positive correlation between baseline severity and treatment response was observed (r = 0.73), with excellent inter-rater reliability (κ = 0.93–0.95) and no serious adverse events reported. Conclusions: The combined use of HIFU and RF-MN via the Focus Dual® device appears to be a safe and well-tolerated non-invasive approach for facial rejuvenation associated with clinical improvements in wrinkle severity with a region- and severity-dependent response profile; the interaction between deep structural tightening (HIFU) and superficial dermal remodeling (RF-MN) suggests a complementary mechanism of action, although further controlled studies are warranted to confirm these findings and evaluate long-term outcomes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050220

Authors: Géraldine Lemaire Malvina Olivero Virginie Rouquet Stéphanie Rivoire Amélie Thepot Morgan Dos Santos Pascal Portes Valérie Cenizo

Skin aging is characterized by various changes, including epidermal thinning, barrier dysfunction, dermis alteration, and dermal–epidermal junction flattening. These changes lead to wrinkles and loss of skin radiance. This study investigates the potential of a supercritical CO2 extract derived from Helichrysum italicum distillation co-products (CO2SC extract) to serve as a botanical anti-aging product, targeting epidermal renewal, barrier reinforcement, dermal–epidermal junction organization, and engagement of retinoid-related gene networks. CO2SC extract’s effects were examined at 0.005% in aged-human-skin equivalents via histology, immunohistology, and transcriptomics. Furthermore, CO2SC extract was investigated at 0.1% in human skin explants using label-free proteomics in comparison with retinol (ROL) at 0.1% and 0.3%. The clinical effectiveness and tolerability of 0.1% CO2SC extract were determined by conducting a randomized, intra-individual comparison with a 0.1% ROL formulation. In aged-human-skin equivalents, CO2SC extract at 0.005% increased epidermal thickness, enhanced expression of differentiation- and barrier-related genes, and stimulated dermal remodeling by increasing type I and III collagens while promoting type VII collagen at the dermal–epidermal junction. Transcriptomic analysis revealed upregulation of genes involved in ROL metabolism and retinoic-acid-responsive signaling. Proteomic profiling further highlighted treatment-associated molecular signatures in comparison with ROL. Clinically, 0.1% CO2SC extract significantly improved wrinkles by day 28, with improvements of comparable magnitude to those observed with the 0.1% ROL arm under the tested conditions and good tolerability, with no signs of irritation reported, including in sensitive-skin participants. CO2SC extract displays anti-aging activity at the molecular, histological, and clinical levels under the tested conditions, modulating gene networks related to ROL metabolism and retinoid signaling while reinforcing barrier integrity and dermal regeneration. Together with its favorable tolerability profile, these findings suggest that this CO2SC extract triggers retinoid-associated programs while maintaining a molecular profile distinct from that of ROL, supporting further evaluation as a botanical anti-aging ingredient agent.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050219

Authors: Nustha Kitprathaung Pongthep Poungthong Othmane Merah

The increasing demand for natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients has stimulated interest in medicinal plants as sources of multifunctional bioactive compounds. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a low-viscosity spray-based cosmetic formulation containing Plectranthus amboinicus leaf extract through phytochemical characterization, antioxidant evaluation, formulation engineering, and physicochemical stability assessment. The novelty of this work lies in evaluating the feasibility of incorporating P. amboinicus extract into a spray-based delivery system while maintaining acceptable physicochemical formulation stability. Ethanol extracts were characterized for extraction yield, total phenolic content (TPC), and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. Four formulations containing 0%, 1%, 3%, and 5% (w/v) extract were evaluated for appearance, pH, homogeneity, and short-term stability. The extract exhibited measurable antioxidant activity and detectable phenolic content. All formulations remained homogeneous, showed no phase separation, and maintained physiological skin pH (5.5–6.0) throughout storage. Only the 5% formulation showed a slight reduction in transparency without compromising physical stability. These findings demonstrate the feasibility of incorporating P. amboinicus extract into a spray-based cosmetic formulation while maintaining acceptable short-term physicochemical stability. The study provides preliminary formulation evidence rather than biological efficacy, and further phytochemical, rheological, spray-performance, biological, and long-term stability studies are warranted. Accordingly, the present findings demonstrate formulation feasibility only and should not be interpreted as confirmation of clinical skin benefits, dermocosmetic efficacy, or spray-device performance.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050217

Authors: Woo Chiao Tay Rebecca Tian Mei Au Joyce Siong See Lee Chee Leok Goh Suzanne Wei Na Cheng

Mesotherapy and related cosmetic microinjection or microneedling procedures are increasingly used for aesthetic indications. However, their safety profile is difficult to define because injectates, devices, injection depths, and treatment protocols vary widely. We report a case of rapid-onset papular granuloma annulare (GA)-like granulomatous reaction after a mesotherapy-like cosmetic procedure. An Asian woman in her forties developed multiple 2–3 mm erythematous papules in a regular grid-like distribution corresponding to facial injection sites. Papules were limited to the left hemiface despite bilateral treatment with the same sodium hyaluronate-containing skincare serum delivered using a suction-assisted 9-pin multi-needle mesogun. Histology showed necrobiotic granulomas with palisading epithelioid histiocytes and increased dermal mucin. After nine sessions of intralesional triamcinolone acetonide, near-complete clinical resolution was documented 14 months after the first intralesional triamcinolone session. This case highlights an unusual rapid-onset, papular, grid-patterned GA-like granulomatous reaction after a mesotherapy-like cosmetic procedure. The temporal and anatomical relationship to injection supports a procedure-associated reaction. Potential contributors include injected materials, use of products not intended for injection, suction-assisted multi-needle delivery, altered injection pressure or depth, repeated passes, mechanical trauma or Koebnerisation, delayed-type hypersensitivity, foreign-body response, contamination, and host susceptibility. This case does not establish a causative agent or reproducible procedure-specific adverse reaction, but documents a distinctive rapid-onset, grid-like papular GA-like reaction after poorly characterized cosmetic interventions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050218

Authors: Dora Intagliata Raffaella Benvenuto Cristiana Saporosi Maria Luisa Garo

Background. In recent years, the use of ultrasound in the diagnosis of cellulite has grown substantially, making reproducible and validated ultrasound-based grading systems for stage III cellulite increasingly necessary to support their accurate application in both clinical practice and research. The Intagliata Echo-Cellulite (IEC) staging system identifies three morphological sub-types using high-frequency ultrasound. Objective. The study aims to evaluate the inter-rater reliability and test–retest reliability of the IEC staging system. Methods. This prospective, image-based reliability study included 150 women with stage III cellulite at a single center. Standardized ultrasound images acquired by an expert were independently rated by two non-expert raters in two sessions four weeks apart and compared with the expert’s ratings; the expert is also the developer of the IEC system. Results. For the primary outcome, IEC stage, both raters achieved almost perfect inter-rater agreement with the gold standard (Rater 1: κ = 0.926, 93.3%; Rater 2: κ = 0.985, 98.7%) and almost perfect test–retest consistency (Rater 1: κ = 0.840; Rater 2: κ = 0.817). Agreement on secondary ultrasound-based variables was more heterogeneous and consistently lower than for the composite IEC stage. Limitations. The image-based design provides an upper bound reliability estimate; additionally, the gold standard rater is the developer of the IEC system, which constrains the independence of the reference standard. Conclusions. Even when applied by untrained raters, the IEC staging system shows high inter-rater reliability and test–retest consistency. These findings further independent validation as a standardized grading tool in cellulite research and precision aesthetic medicine.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050216

Authors: Adrian Palma

Rejuvenation of the perioral region using minimally invasive aesthetic techniques is frequently used to address age-related changes. While hyaluronic acid-based dermal fillers are a frequently used treatment, limited data are available on the injectable biostimulator poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA-SCA; Sculptra®). This study described the aesthetic outcomes of PLLA-SCA injectable treatment for perioral rejuvenation using a series of patient cases collected up to 8–13 months post-first injection. This retrospective, single-center case series involved adults (age ≥ 18 years) who presented with concerns related to age-associated changes in the perioral region and were treated with PLLA-SCA as part of a full-face rejuvenation regimen. Reconstituted PLLA-SCA was injected subdermally, as superficially as technically feasible, using a 25-gauge blunt-tip cannula equally across both sides of the full face, adjusted to individual findings, at Baseline (Day 0) and at Weeks 8 and 16, with a follow-up at Week 28. This series of patient cases demonstrated positive aesthetic outcomes with PLLA-SCA that included visible softening of the vertical lip lines at rest and restoration of a more horizontal commissural axis, preserved dynamic expression, improved definition of the Cupid’s bow and the vermilion border, reduced prominence of the mentolabial crease, improved midfacial support, and improvement of peri-commissural skin texture. For all cases, the investigator-rated Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale score at Week 28 was either “very much improved” or “much improved”, and the patient-reported satisfaction was rated at 5/5. Adverse events were limited to mild, transient injection-site bruising that quickly resolved without intervention, and short-lived edema; no nodules, vascular events, or delayed-onset reactions were observed. While these preliminary clinical observations at Week 28 suggest that PLLA-SCA can be used in a safe and effective manner for rejuvenation of the perioral region, future, larger, and longer-duration studies are warranted.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13050215

Authors: Yuli Kurniawati Muhammad Akip Riyan Saputra Fifa Argentina Athuf Thaha Yulia Farida Yahya Erial Bahar Shaum Shiyan

Acne vulgaris (AV) significantly affects quality of life and is often treated with topical therapies. Gambir, a phytopharmaceutical with catechin as its primary compound, offers an alternative solution for mild-to-moderate AV, acting as an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and astringent. This study investigates the efficacy of 1% gambir extract gel in treating AV, contributing to the exploration of novel dermatological interventions. The pilot study at the General Hospital of Mohammad Hoesin, Palembang, assessed the impact of a 1% gambir extract gel on individuals with AV. A total of 22 subjects, including those with sensitive skin, were enrolled in the study. Data analysis involved comparing the severity of AV before and after treatment with the gel, as well as skin analysis and dermatological quality of life index before and after treatment. Results indicated significant clinical improvement (p < 0.001) in 77.2% of subjects by week 8. Notably, 83.3% of moderate AV cases improved to mild, and 70% of mild AV cases showed improvement. Erythema and sebum levels decreased, and life quality, assessed by the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI), improved in 72.7% of subjects (p < 0.001) by week 8. These findings suggest promising outcomes with 1% gambir extract gel and encourage further research for validation and refinement, emphasizing its potential in managing mild–moderate AV.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040214

Authors: Barbara Pagliarani Letizia Pruccoli Martina Balducci Chiara Samorì Laura Pezzolesi Andrea Tarozzi

Rising temperatures and the occurrence of heat waves due to climate change can increase the risk of various skin disorders. Moreover, elevated temperatures worsen oxidative damage and inflammation caused by other climate change stressors, such as UV exposure. Consequently, there is growing interest in innovative solutions to protect skin health from the effects of pollution and climate change stressors. Among natural cosmeceuticals, carotenoids are recognized for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study evaluated the thermoprotective effects of Hematococcus lacustris (the microalga formerly called Hematococcus pluvialis) extract (HLE), which is considered the richest natural source of carotenoid astaxanthin, against acute hyperthermia, which mimics the conditions of heat waves. In addition, we separately assessed the effects of HLE against UVA and hydrogen peroxide stress, complementing the antioxidant profile of the extract under study. The evaluation was conducted using in vitro tests on human HaCaT keratinocytes and the nematode Caenorhabditis elegans, which is a model organism sensitive to environmental stressors. The treatment of HaCaT keratinocytes with HLE counteracted the intracellular formation of reactive oxygen species and cytotoxicity induced by hyperthermia, UVA, and hydrogen peroxide exposure. Under the same experimental conditions, HLE also restored the impaired expression of stress-sensitive genes, such as matrix metalloproteinase-1, in HaCaT keratinocytes and promoted wound closure mimicking the process of re-epithelization. Lastly, experiments in C. elegans confirm that HLE reduces heat stress-induced oxidative damage and preserves motility, supporting a systemic protective effect consistent with dietary uptake of the extract. These findings suggest that HLE, rich in carotenoid astaxanthin, can protect keratinocytes against oxidative damage and cytotoxicity induced by thermal stress, indicating its potential role in mitigating thermal aging.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040213

Authors: Yuji Mochizuki Sotaro Sato Kohtaro Katayama Kenji Matsumoto Hiroki Hotta Yoshio Tsujino

This study investigated the effects of incorporating muconic acid-derived amino acid compounds (CM) into a reductive hair-straightening formulation on hair shape stability and surface characteristics. Hair tresses obtained from Brazilian donors with moderately wavy to curly hair were treated with a cysteamine-based straightening system, with or without CM, and evaluated under high-temperature, high-humidity conditions (40 °C, 75% relative humidity). CM-treated hair maintained a straighter configuration after 24 h of humidity exposure, whereas the control groups exhibited partial or complete loss of the straightening effect. The mean hair width significantly decreased in the CM-treated group, indicating improved macroscopic shape stability. Furthermore, the coefficient of friction was significantly reduced following CM treatment, and the combing resistance showed a decreasing trend, although the difference was not statistically significant. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) observations suggested a tendency toward reduced cuticle lifting after repeated thermal and mechanical stress. These findings suggest that preservation of cuticle morphology together with reduced fiber–fiber friction may contribute to enhanced humidity-resistant straightening and improved hair manageability. Overall, CM enhanced humidity-resistant straightening while improving hair surface characteristics. These findings suggest that CM is a promising additive for the development of humidity-resistant hair-straightening formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040212

Authors: Narawadee Rujanapun Kulawadee Malee Wuttichai Jaidee Subhadip Banerjee Thidarat Duangyod Pravaree Phuneerub Sorraya Champakam Geoffrey A. Cordell Rawiwan Charoensup

Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. (Apiaceae) is widely incorporated into dermatological and wound-healing formulations, where dechlorophylization is commonly used to improve extract stability, although its biological consequences are not fully understood. In this study, an ethanolic extract of C. asiatica leaves (CAE) was compared with a dechlorophylized C. asiatica extract (DCAE) in terms of cytotoxicity, wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, complemented by network pharmacology analysis. DCAE exhibited improved cytocompatibility, remaining non-cytotoxic up to 100 µg/mL, whereas CAE showed cytotoxic effects above 25 µg/mL. In contrast, CAE demonstrated superior wound-healing performance, reducing the residual wound area to 21.77% compared with 36.81% for DCAE and inducing higher Ki67 expression (1.94-fold versus 1.58-fold). These findings suggest that chlorophyll-associated constituents may contribute to keratinocyte proliferation and re-epithelialization. Although DCAE was enriched in pentacyclic triterpenes, including asiatic acid, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and madecassoside, it showed stronger anti-inflammatory effects by more effectively suppressing CXCL10, IL-6, TNF-α, and IL-8 expression. Both extracts displayed weak antibacterial activity but moderate antifungal effects against Candida albicans, likely mediated through membrane disruption. Network pharmacology further indicated that wound-healing activity is associated with the regulation of COL1A1 and VEGFA through quercetin, kaempferol, and asiatic acid by way of the PI3K-Akt and MAPK signaling pathways, whereas anti-inflammatory effects involve modulation of PTGS2 and TNF through the NF-κB and IL-17 pathways. Overall, DCAE enhances cytocompatibility and anti-inflammatory activity, while CAE retains stronger regenerative capacity. These findings support the rational design of tailored formulations for specific dermatological applications, such as promoting wound repair or alleviating chronic skin inflammation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040211

Authors: Peeriya Wongchantarawirat Pimpak Phumat Kanokwan Kiattisin

The development of effective cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid is hindered by its rapid degradation and poor skin permeation. To address these limitations, this study identified an optimal synergistic antioxidant combination to enhance L-ascorbic acid efficacy and encapsulated it within a niosomes to improve stability and skin retention. Among various ratios evaluated via DPPH assays, a 1:1:2:2 combination of L-ascorbic acid, alpha-tocopherol, ferulic acid, and ergothioneine (Mix D) exhibited the highest synergism. Subsequent FRAP, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-aging inhibition assays confirmed that Mix D contributed to skin-brightening and anti-aging efficacy. Consequently, Mix D was encapsulated into niosomes (NI3-3A), initially showing a vesicle size of 130.67 nm and a PDI of 0.11, and an entrapment efficiency of 70.63%. NI3-3A provided exceptional chemical protection, limiting L-ascorbic acid degradation to 25.06% and maintaining an entrapment efficiency of 63.93% over 90 days due to its robust bilayer structure. Furthermore, it exhibited remarkable physicochemical stability, with a vesicle size of 140.27 nm and PDI of 0.09 after 90 days, while achieving a skin retention of 56.91% significantly higher than the unencapsulated solution (11.32%). In conclusion, this niosomal formulation successfully overcomes the stability limitations of L-ascorbic acid, offering a promising active ingredient for the development of advanced skin-brightening and anti-aging topical products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040210

Authors: Ployvadee Sripadung Nadtanet Nunthaboot Catheleeya Mekjaruskul Ploenthip Puthongking Anake Kijjoa Bunleu Sungthong

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. is a rich source of bioactive compounds, and has been extensively investigated for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. However, despite its broad pharmacological potential, detailed molecular-level insights into the interactions of its phenolic and flavonoid constituents with key skin-aging-related enzymes remain limited. Therefore, this study employed an integrated in silico and in vitro approach to systematically evaluate the anti-aging potential of phenolic and flavonoid compounds derived from N. nucifera. Molecular docking was performed to investigate their binding interactions with tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase. Compounds exhibiting the most promising inhibitory profiles were further subjected to molecular dynamics (MD) simulations for 100 ns and density functional theory (DFT) analyses at the B3LYP/6-31G(d,p) level of theory to elucidate their structural stability and electronic properties. The computational results revealed favorable binding affinities, stable complex formation, and electrostatic features supporting hydrogen bond interactions. In vitro enzyme inhibition assays demonstrated that hesperidin exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase, with IC50 values of 3.43 mM, 2.26 mM, and 0.55 mM, respectively. Kojic acid was used as a positive control for tyrosinase, while epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was used as a positive control for both collagenase and elastase. Additionally, hesperidin exhibited enzyme-inhibitory activity and preliminary intrinsic UV absorption. This compound warrants further investigation, specifically regarding its stability and performance within standardized cosmeceutical formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040209

Authors: Giovanni Deusebio Annalisa Visciglia Angela Amoruso Marco Pane

Background: The skin barrier plays a fundamental role in preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), regulating immune responses, and protecting against pathogen colonization. Disruption of this barrier underlies xerosis, sensitive skin, and clinical cracking. Heat-treated probiotics (postbiotics) represent a stable and biologically active approach to topical formulation. Objective: To evaluate the safety, molecular mechanisms, and clinical efficacy of heat-treated Lactiplantibacillus plantarum Skinbac™ SB14 (SB14) in improving skin barrier function, hydration, and the appearance of dry and cracked skin. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cell viability (MTT assay) and cytotoxicity (LDH release assay), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, Claudin-1 expression recovery following UV-induced damage (post-damage treatment model), cytokine modulation in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and Peripheral Blood Mononuclear Cells (PBMCs), and antipathogen activity against Staphylococcus aureus biofilm. A 30-day open-label, placebo-controlled clinical study (n = 20 healthy volunteers, both sexes, age > 18 years) evaluated an emulsion containing 1% SB14 versus placebo using instrumental measurements of superficial hydration (Corneometer® CM825) and TEWL (Tewameter® TM300), and clinical scoring of skin hydration (Kligman scale 1–4) and skin cracking (ODS Overall Dry Skin Score 1–5) via C-Cube imaging. Results: In vitro testing confirmed the safety of SB14 (full cell viability by MTT assay; no cytotoxicity by LDH release assay) and demonstrated significant AQP3 upregulation (p < 0.05), partial Claudin-1 recovery in UV-damaged cells following post-damage SB14 application (p < 0.1 vs. UV damage), significant reduction in pro-inflammatory IL-8 and IL-23 in NHEK (p < 0.01 and p < 0.05), strong innate immune activation in PBMCs (TNF-α and IL-6, p < 0.001), and 21% inhibition of S. aureus biofilm at 72 h. Clinically, the SB14 formulation significantly increased superficial skin hydration by +46.1% at T14 (p = 0.0451) and +33.6% at T30 (p = 0.0144) versus baseline, while TEWL decreased by −14.5% at T14 (p = 0.0205). Clinical hydration scores improved significantly from a median of 3.0 (moderate dry skin) at baseline to 2.0 (slightly dry skin) at T30 (p = 0.0073). Cracking scores improved significantly from a median of 3.5 at baseline to 2.0 at T30 (p = 0.0037), with 80% of subjects showing improvement at T30. All parameters remained non-significant in the placebo group. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: SB14 is safe, biologically active across multiple barrier-relevant mechanisms, and clinically effective in improving hydration and reducing visible skin cracking in subjects with dry, barrier-compromised skin.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040208

Authors: Min-Wei Lee Sheng-Chien Lin Wen-Ying Chen Chun-Jung Chen Yu-Hsiang Kuan Ming-Kun Hsieh

Melatonin, a methoxyindole synthesized by the pineal gland, is secreted in response to photoperiodic cues relayed from the retina through an endogenous circadian oscillator within the suprachiasmatic nucleus. Consequently, melatonin secretion regulates the circadian rhythm. Melatonin has been reported to have antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and wound-healing properties. It has also been reported to promote hair growth, although the underlying mechanisms remain unclear. In this study, we explored the potential molecular mechanisms of melatonin-induced hair growth by using an in vivo C57BL/6 mouse model. We observed morphological changes in the dorsal area and changes in the hair cycle and anagen induction were observed through hematoxylin–eosin staining. The molecular mechanisms were explored using Western blotting and immunofluorescence assay. Our findings indicate that topical melatonin promotes anagen entry and hair regrowth in C57BL/6 mice, accompanied by the modulation of Wnt/β-catenin-related signaling proteins. The decrease in grayscale value, increase in hair length and skin thickness and histological change in hair follicles in the melatonin-treated group indicated hair regrowth in the dorsal skin of mice. Moreover, the expression of the Wnt/β-catenin pathway was remarkably regulated. These findings further our understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying topical melatonin-induced hair growth.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040207

Authors: Yuhua Jiang Jason Wu Aline Delobelle Luyan Wang Thibaut Saguet Junjie Jiang

The telomere is one of the biological hallmarks of skin aging. Sodium acetylated hyaluronate (SAH) is an acetylated derivative of sodium hyaluronate, produced by a grafting technology that confers higher resistance to hyaluronidase. This study aimed to explore whether SAH is associated with telomere-related endpoints and with clinical signs of skin aging. Two vitro studies were performed, assessing telomerase activity in human adult keratinocytes and telomere length in human normal fibroblasts by quantitative PCR (qPCR) assay kits, with or without SAH. A randomized, split-face, double-centered, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was then conducted on 44 Caucasian and Asian female volunteers, comparing a facial cream containing 0.1% SAH with a placebo cream over 28 days; crow’s feet wrinkle depth, area, and volume, under-eye roughness (Rz), elasticity (R2), and firmness (F4) were measured by PRIMOS 3D and Cutometer® MPA 580 at baseline, day 7, and day 28. In vitro, only the highest SAH concentration (0.15%) was associated with a significant increase in telomerase activity and in telomere length versus control, whereas lower concentrations had no significant effect. Clinically, the SAH cream significantly reduced crow’s feet wrinkle volume and area, improved skin elasticity, and reduced under-eye roughness versus placebo, with non-significant trends for wrinkle depth and firmness. These exploratory findings make SAH an interesting active ingredient for anti-aging skincare cosmetics, combining a curative dimension (clinical improvement of skin-aging parameters) with a preventive dimension (telomere preservation observed in vitro for the first time), and warrant further mechanistic investigation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040206

Authors: Saeid Mezail Mawazi Nur Allyana Awadah Binti Abd Ghani Faiz Ahmed Shaikh

There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions for skin lightening/brightening due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers’ preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial hydroquinone compounds; however, in recent years, the research field experienced a transition towards safer antioxidant-based agents. The present review analyzes the application and use of antioxidants in modern cosmetics as an innovative approach, and the chemical and biological mechanisms of their functions that could revolutionize the industrial applications. The most effective ones include competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme, pheomelanin switch through the help of glutathione, protection from reactive oxygen species (ROS) in order to inhibit ultraviolet (UV)-stimulated production of melanin, as well as prevention of the migration of melanosomes using niacinamide. The review identifies and analyzes several components used as ingredients, such as vitamins C, Niacinamide, vitamin E, licorice root, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), or resveratrol, among many more. In spite of their high efficiency, there are numerous problems associated with the instability, dermal irritation, and absorption of pure antioxidants. Finally, the legal framework developed by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and European Union (EU), potential risks like pro-oxidation damage, and future perspectives such as personalized skincare via machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) are discussed.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040205

Authors: Ratchanon Sukprasert Kant Sangpairoj Pornpun Vivithanaporn Nongnuch Luangpon Waranurin Yisarakun Montakan Tamtin Witoon Khawsuk Tanapan Siangcham

The application of natural bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical products, particularly as skin-lightening agents, has received increasing interest. Caulerpa racemosa, a green macroalga of the Chlorophyta division, contains beneficial nutrients that are applicable as food and cosmeceutical ingredients. This study investigated the in vitro effect of the ethanolic extract of C. racemosa (CR) on regulation of melanogenic-related signaling and gene expression in SK-MEL-5 human melanoma-derived cells. Identification of bioactive components revealed that catechin, rutin, and quercetin as flavonoid contents were found in CR extract, analyzed using HPLC. The expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling molecules, and melanogenic-related molecules were analyzed via Western blotting and qPCR. The CR extract treatment applied to SK-MEL-5 cells decreased the MITF protein expression level, which correlated with increased pERK expression, and no cytotoxic effect was observed. The subsequent treatment reduced the expression of melanogenesis-related genes (TYR, TYRP1, MC1R, and DCT) that were downstream targets of MITF. This study provides preliminary evidence that CR extract may modulate melanogenesis-related signaling. However, the specific bioactive compounds responsible for the observed effects remain to be identified, as the extract contains a complex mixture of phytochemicals. Further fractionation studies are needed to pinpoint the active constituents. The variability of extract composition due to seasonal and geographical factors should be considered for future standardization.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040204

Authors: Yuanmeng Yang Zhenfeng Liu

Non-surgical aesthetic procedures, including energy-based devices and injectable therapies, have become increasingly popular worldwide, creating distinct skincare needs for peri-procedural recovery and long-term post-procedure maintenance. This narrative review summarizes current evidence on cosmetic peptides as adjunctive skincare across both phases. A structured literature search was conducted in PubMed, Embase, and Google Scholar, only including peptides with an International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) designation and defined amino acid sequences. Available clinical evidence suggests potential roles for cosmetic peptides in two interconnected scenarios. In peri-procedural care—spanning pre-procedure conditioning through post-procedure recovery—signal peptides, carrier peptides, and antimicrobial peptides have demonstrated benefits in accelerating healing and reducing erythema, edema, and bruising. As a long-term adjuvant strategy, signal peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, and whitening peptides may contribute to collagen remodeling, wrinkle reduction, and pigment control. Although enzyme-inhibiting peptides currently lack direct clinical evidence, their proposed mechanisms suggest potential for future investigation. However, the evidence remains limited by small sample sizes, short follow-up periods, heterogeneous peptide formulations and treatment protocols, and frequent use of proprietary multi-ingredient products. Overall, cosmetic peptides represent a potential adjunctive approach in aesthetic medicine. Larger, well-designed randomized controlled trials are needed to establish their clinical value and long-term safety.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040203

Authors: Axel Viton Raphaël Coatmeur Béatrice Anthouard Magalie Claeys-Bruno Christophe Sauzet Philippe Piccerelle

Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails. To test this, we apply a two-tier strategy combining ISO/TR 18811 testing and Turbiscan turbidimetry with rheology, laser diffraction, and AI-assisted polarized light microscopy, on two oil-in-water emulsions structured by a lamellar gel network and stabilized by Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside at 2 wt% (Emulsion A) and 3 wt% (Emulsion B) over 30 days of storage. First-tier testing distinguished formulations only at Day 30; Turbiscan index values (2.64, 1.78) stayed below threshold throughout. The second-tier protocol resolved structural divergence from Day 8 to 15, two to three weeks earlier. In Emulsion A, a transient birefringent fraction (51.5% at Day 8) preceded network disruption, droplet coalescence, and a drift of the loss tangent toward more liquid-like values. In Emulsion B, birefringence expanded to 98.4% by Day 30 and the loss tangent declined to 0.325. These results indicate that a 1 wt% difference in emulsifier concentration, within a range of industrial use, is sufficient to determine whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails, and that combining rheology, laser diffraction and AI-assisted microscopy resolves this divergence two to three weeks before conventional ISO criteria are met.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040202

Authors: Tatiana A. Fedotcheva Nikolay L. Shimanovsky

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Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040201

Authors: Julalak Chorachoo Ontong Chatchai Wattanapiromsakul Charassri Nualsri Sudarshan Singh Popat Mohite Benjaporn Bourchum Meadeena Kobmang Pinyada Subyad Thanyaphon Pusawiro Supatina Khan Nattanon Bunrodchu Narapat Aunruean Apiwat Artkaew Anon Makklay Thanyaluck Siriyong

Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa have traditionally been used for the management of skin disorders; however, scientific evidence supporting their combined topical use in eczema and psoriasis remains limited. To characterize the phytochemical composition, evaluate the biological activities, investigate potential molecular mechanisms, and assess the preliminary clinical performance of a topical herbal cream containing C. sativa and C. longa extracts. Ethanolic extracts were analyzed using UHPLC and GC-MS. Antioxidant, antibacterial, cytotoxicity, and nitric oxide inhibition assays were performed. Molecular docking studies were conducted against inflammation-related protein targets. A pilot clinical study evaluated the effects of the herbal cream in patients with eczema and psoriasis over four weeks using EASI, PASI, and DLQI scores. The herbal formulation contained cannabinoids, terpenoids, and curcuminoids with measurable antioxidant activity. The extract exhibited low cytotoxicity and moderate inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages (0.0001–0.1 mg/mL). Docking analyses suggested favorable interactions between selected phytochemicals and inflammation-associated targets. Preliminary clinical observations indicated improvements in EASI (from 4.11 ± 3.14 to 1.28 ± 1.46), PASI (from 39 to 16.2), and DLQI (from 6.25 ± 5.25 to 1.00 ± 0.82) scores among study completers. The herbal cream demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and showed preliminary clinical potential in inflammatory skin disorders. Larger controlled clinical studies are required to confirm efficacy and establish therapeutic value.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040200

Authors: Magdalena Bîrsan Iulia-Alexandra Roman Cătălina-Daniela Stan Ana-Caterina Cristofor Robert-Alexandru Vlad Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu Adriana Ciurba Carmen-Valerica Ripa

Objective: Commercial lip balm sticks are often selected based on brand popularity and marketing claims, which may not reflect formulation quality or mechanical reliability. This study investigated whether lipid matrix organization better predicts mechanical integrity and consumer acceptance than commercial positioning and introduced the Structural Lipid Architecture (SLA) concept. Materials and Methods: Seven best-selling commercial lip balm sticks were evaluated through consumer research, instrumental texture analysis, and compositional assessment. A validated questionnaire completed by 234 participants assessed product performance, fracture perception, purchasing behaviour, and willingness to pay for improved quality. Mechanical properties were determined using a Brookfield CT3 Texture Analyzer, while INCI compositions were analysed for structural wax diversity, lipid co-structuring agents, and melting point distribution within the SLA framework. Results: Overall, 76.9% of respondents reported having previously experienced stick fracture or deformation, while 94.4% expressed willingness to pay more for products offering superior performance and safety. Product fracture was strongly associated with reduced confidence in product quality (ρ = 0.672, p < 0.0001) and lower repurchase intention (ρ = 0.725, p < 0.0001). Hardness strongly correlated with mechanical work (r = 0.950, p = 0.001). Formulations combining complementary natural, mineral, and/or synthetic waxes with lipid co-structuring agents exhibited superior structural cohesion and fracture resistance, whereas simplified wax systems showed progressive mechanical failure. Conclusions: Best-selling status did not consistently predict superior mechanical performance. Optimized combinations of complementary structural waxes were key determinants of product integrity and fracture resistance.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040199

Authors: Wansada Suttimas Surapol Natakankitkul Mathukorn Sainakham

The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. Hemp seed oil showed good oxidative stability (peroxide value = 1.87 ± 0.23 mEq/kg). It contained 0.134 ± 0.01 mg gallic acid equivalents/g of oil weight of phenolic compounds. The oil was rich in linoleic and α-linolenic acids and contained α-tocopherol. Microemulsions were prepared by combining hemp seed oil with castor oil (C:H) or sunflower oil (S:H) at three oil ratios and four surfactant HLB values (4.3–12). From 72 candidate formulations, only sunflower oil:hemp seed oil systems in the ratio of 3:7 and HLB of 9.5 showed the best overall balance of stability, maintaining droplet size, low PDI, and consistent viscosity/turbidity over 2 months of storage and heating–cooling cycle testing. This formulation also exhibited cleansing efficiency (ΔE = 9.64), which was slightly lower than a commercial cleansing oil (ΔE = 9.74). These results illustrate the potential of hemp seed oil to be developed into a stable, effective W/O microemulsion cleansing system for cosmetic application.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040198

Authors: Nana Kanda Sayuri Furuno Hikaru Iwata Nozomi Suga Megumi Oya Shota Suzuki Kentaro Yamazaki Ichiro Yajima

Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm2, 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm2) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm2). At 505 nm, the residual cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) burden measured 24 h after UVB was reduced when UVB followed immediately or after 3–24 h (with residual CPDs falling to approximately 67% of the UVB-alone level—an approximately 33% reduction—at the most effective 3.0 J/cm2, 24 h condition), whereas protection was lost by 48 h. Under the 0 h interval condition, CPDs were also quantified immediately after UVB to compare the early CPD signal with the 24 h residual endpoint; all three visible wavelengths (505, 470 and 630 nm) lowered the immediate post-UVB signal, but only 505 nm preconditioning sustained the protective effect at the 24 h endpoint. Blue light (470 nm) produced a limited delayed benefit, whereas red light (630 nm) did not confer consistent protection and increased the residual CPD burden under selected conditions. Non-toxic 505 nm exposure primed an amplified NRF2/ARE response to subsequent UVB; XPC and XPD mRNAs rose at 2–6 h, while XPA and XPB declined early. Together, these findings support further evaluation of 505 nm blue–green light as a proof-of-concept, device-oriented strategy for timed photoprotection against UVB-induced photoaging; because these findings were obtained in a single dermal fibroblast model, they will require validation in keratinocytes and more complex skin systems before any practical application.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040197

Authors: Gisele Mara Silva Gonçalves

Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris and scalp disorders. Methods: A scoping search (2006–2026) covered SciELO, PubMed/PMC, Google Scholar, CAPES Portal, Scopus, Heliyon, Frontiers, Nature, Wiley, and MDPI, following PRISMA 2020 guidelines. Results: Of 1665 records, 66 were included. For acne, effective prebiotics included blackcurrant, grape seed, ginseng, trehalose, and glucomannan hydrolysate; effective probiotic strains included Streptococcus thermophilus, Bifidobacterium longum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Streptococcus salivarius. A synbiotic (B. breve BR03, Lacticaseibacillus casei LC03, Ligilactobacillus salivarius LS03) reduced inflammatory lesions by 56.67% in an 8-week RCT (n = 114). For scalp disorders, oral Lacticaseibacillus paracasei ST11 reduced dandruff by 70% vs. 23% (placebo); Lactiplantibacillus plantarum TCI999 increased hair root diameter (n = 50, 12 weeks); a Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus plus Bifidobacterium longum mixture improved alopecia areata by 56% vs. 30% (n = 26, 24 weeks). Conclusions: Biotic dermo-cosmetics can modulate the cutaneous microbiome and attenuate inflammation in acne and scalp disorders, with strongest evidence for multi-strain/synbiotic formulations. Formulation stability, strain specificity, regulatory heterogeneity, and lack of standardized microbiological endpoints remain key challenges; larger standardized RCTs with active comparators are needed.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040196

Authors: Anna Czajkowska-Kośnik Paulina Perkowska Katarzyna Winnicka

Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of this study was to develop dermatological emulsions with desirable physicochemical, rheological, mechanical, adhesive, and moisturizing properties for dry skin care. Six placebo emulsions, differing in emulsifier and oil compositions, were prepared and evaluated for stability, pH, viscosity, rheological behavior, texture, adhesion, and spreadability. Based on the results obtained, the formulation containing avocado oil and Olivem 1000 was selected as the optimal base for incorporating trehalose at concentrations of 1%, 2.5%, and 5%. The formulations were further evaluated in vivo using TEWL and corneometry measurements. All emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian shear-thinning and thixotropic properties. Regular application of the emulsions reduced TEWL by approximately 33%, while skin hydration increased up to 102%. However, discontinuation of the emulsion application resulted in decreased skin hydration and increased TEWL, suggesting the need for constant use.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040195

Authors: Žane Temova Rakuša Robert Roškar

Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed to evaluate the content-related quality and stability of a comprehensive sample of commercial cosmetics. For this purpose, a selective HPLC-UV analytical method for their simultaneous determination was developed, validated, and applied to 41 products. The analysis revealed 0–31.7% (m/m) contents and inappropriate labeling in 22% of the products, including the absence and replacement of the labeled vitamin C form. Over half (57%) of the determined contents corresponded to the labels, which was claimed for 31 products, while the remaining contents were considerably lower (<80%). The stability study, performed on selected cosmetics and standard solutions under ambient and elevated temperatures, demonstrated instability, which could account for their inadequate content. Thus, the instability was found to be temperature-dependent and most pronounced for ascorbic acid, whereas the product price did not show a clear correlation with greater content or stability. Overall, these results highlight the need for proper quality control and stricter cosmetics regulation as well as formulation design to achieve sufficient stabilization, as observed in certain products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040194

Authors: Melike Akgün Ömerül Faruk Tavlı Orçun Çınar Alevcan Kaplan Mehmet Boğa Ercan Çınar Serpil Demirci Kayıran Esra Eroğlu Özkan

Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared macerate of defined origin. The fatty acid composition, oxidative-stability indices, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, naphthodianthrone level, antioxidant capacity, and tyrosinase inhibition were determined, and the principal constituents were examined by molecular docking and in silico skin-permeation and toxicity profiling. The olive-oil matrix was oleic acid-dominated (73.9%) and oxidatively stable (iodine value 86.0; oxidizability index, COX, 1.84), while the macerate showed modest phenolic (36.84 μg pyrocatechol equivalents, PCE/mg) and naphthodianthrone (0.044 mg/mL hypericin equivalents) contents. It showed limited antioxidant activity but moderate tyrosinase inhibition (38.75% at 200 μg/mL). Docking revealed that, despite high affinity scores, the naphthodianthrones lay 7–9 Å from the catalytic copper centre (an artefact of the scoring function), whereas fatty acids accessed the active site more closely, implicating the matrix in the observed activity. In silico profiling indicated that the photoactive naphthodianthrones are largely retained at the skin surface. These findings link this centuries-old preparation to a mechanistically informed understanding of its cosmetic potential.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040192

Authors: Dominika Dąbrowska-Wisłocka Aleksandra Kalinoska Olga Zavyalova Beata Winiecka Karolina Pisanko Arkadiusz Jundziłł Karolina Szewczyk-Golec Iga Hołyńska-Iwan

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps maintain skin elasticity and hydration. Despite its broad application, the influence of collagen on epithelial ion transport remains insufficiently understood. This study evaluated the effect of a gel containing triple-helical collagen on sodium and chloride ion transport in the isolated rabbit skin. The collagen gel was applied to 25 skin specimens for 24 h and compared with 30 untreated control specimens. Electrophysiological analyses included measurements of transepithelial electrical potential (PD), electrical resistance (R), and potential changes during stimulation (PDmin and PDmax). Collagen gel significantly decreased R compared with control tissues, indicating altered tissue permeability. Collagen gel-treated tissues also exhibited a significantly more electropositive PDmin than controls, whereas PDmax values remained comparable between groups, suggesting that electrophysiological responsiveness was maintained under the experimental conditions. The observed electropositive shift in PDmin may reflect altered sodium ion transport. Whether these electrophysiological changes are associated with changes in tissue hydration requires direct investigation.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040193

Authors: Trixie Joy B. Gano Ariel M. Alcones

The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v) against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Antibacterial activity was determined using the Kirby–Bauer disk diffusion method alongside positive and negative controls. All extract-infused soap formulations exhibited distinct, measurable zones of inhibition (ZOI) ranging from 16.33 mm to 17.67 mm for S. aureus and 16.33 mm to 18.00 mm for E. coli, consistently achieving an “Active” qualitative classification. A one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) demonstrated highly significant differences across the entire dataset (p < 0.001). However, Tukey’s Honestly Significant Difference (HSD) post hoc test revealed no statistically significant differences in antibacterial performance among the 25%, 50%, and 75% concentrations (p > 0.05). This indicates a performance plateau caused by agar diffusion limits or micellar entrapment within the soap base. J. multifida maintains antibacterial integrity within a soap matrix, offering a viable plant-based antiseptic alternative against S. aureus and E. coli. Formulating at a 25% concentration represents the optimal commercial choice, maximizing antimicrobial performance while minimizing raw material costs.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040191

Authors: Thapanee Roengrit Thirapit Subongkot Thanchanok Sirirak Suwipa Intakhiao Jatuporn Phoemsapthawee Piyapong Prasertsri

This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face for 12 weeks: (1) a serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract (treatment intervention) and (2) a standard serum formulation containing 2% α-arbutin (control intervention). Skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, melanin, and erythema were assessed at baseline and after the intervention using non-invasive skin measurement techniques. At baseline, no significant differences were observed between facial sides for any outcome. After 12 weeks, the side treated with the treatment intervention demonstrated significant within-side improvements in skin hydration at the forehead, skin elasticity at the cheeks and chin, and reductions in melanin and erythema in selected facial regions (all p < 0.05). However, paired split-face comparisons revealed that the treatment intervention produced significantly greater skin hydration at the cheek (mean difference = 3.88 AU, 95% CI: 0.23–7.53 AU, p = 0.039) and significantly greater skin elasticity at the forehead (mean difference = 0.090, 95% CI: 0.011–0.169, p = 0.028) compared with the control intervention. In addition, skin oiliness at the cheek was significantly lower on the side treated with the treatment intervention (mean difference = −6.62 µg/cm2, 95% CI: −12.62 to −0.62 µg/cm2, p = 0.032). No significant between-intervention differences were observed for melanin or erythema at any facial region. These findings suggest that topical application of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract may improve skin hydration and elasticity while reducing skin oiliness in healthy middle-aged adults. However, no significant advantages over a standard 2% α-arbutin serum were observed for skin pigmentation or erythema after 12 weeks of treatment. Clinical Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov, NCT06475222.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040190

Authors: Vanessa Urrea-Victoria Valentina Aranzazu Suárez Santiago Andrés Barrero Salinas Yoshie A. Hata Daniel Cárdenas Ballesteros Leonardo Castellanos Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application is limited by poor chemical stability in aqueous environments. Objective: The present study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion-based lip balm incorporating a MAAs-rich extract from Catenella sp., addressing stability limitations while enhancing photoprotective performance. Methods: A MAAs-rich extract was obtained and characterized by UHPLC-DAD, followed by cytotoxicity evaluation in NIH-3T3 fibroblasts and stability assessment under stress conditions. A water-in-oil (w/o) nanoemulsion was rationally developed using pseudo-ternary phase diagrams and optimized through a Box–Behnken experimental design, considering aqueous phase, surfactant mixture, and sonication time as key variables. The optimized nanoemulsion was subsequently incorporated into a lip balm matrix, which was formulated and optimized using a mixture design approach to evaluate thermal, mechanical, and sensory properties. Results: The extract exhibited a high MAAs content (9.53 mg g−1 DW) and low cytotoxicity (IC50 > 100 µg/mL), but pronounced hydrolytic instability, particularly under alkaline conditions, while remaining photostable. The optimized nanoemulsion achieved a droplet size below 200 nm and low polydispersity (PDI < 0.3). Importantly, incorporation of MAAs into nanoemulsion significantly enhanced the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), increasing from 16.1 (extract) to 35.4, while maintaining broad-spectrum UV coverage (λc = 380 nm). The blank nanoemulsion also contributed to UV attenuation, indicating a synergistic effect of the colloidal system. The optimized lip balm formulation (33% beeswax, 40% nanoemulsion, 22% shea butter, 1% candelilla wax, 4% carnauba wax) demonstrated suitable melting behavior, mechanical resistance, and high sensory acceptance. Conclusions: This study demonstrates that nanoemulsion-based structuring combined with statistical formulation design provides an effective strategy to stabilize MAAs and enhance their photoprotective efficacy, supporting the development of high-performance, natural sunscreen products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040189

Authors: Han-Wen Hsieh Mo-Rong Xu Wen-Wei Hsiao Sheng-Yang Wang

Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs isolated from liquid-cultured Taiwanofungus camphoratus mycelia (TCEVs) protect keratinocytes against UVB-induced damage. TCEVs displayed nanosized vesicular features with a mean particle size of 134.6 ± 4.6 nm and a stable negative surface charge. In HaCaT cells, TCEVs showed no obvious cytotoxicity and increased wound closure. In UVB-exposed keratinocytes, TCEV pretreatment improved cell viability, increased ATP production, reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species accumulation, and improved mitochondrial membrane potential. At the highest tested concentration (10 × 1010 particles/mL), TCEVs reduced UVB-induced relative ROS levels from 118.65% to 98.2% and increased relative ATP levels from 70.47% to 86.0%. TCEVs also increased the expression of ZO-1, occludin, and Claudin-3 and were associated with increased SIRT1 and p-AMPK expression and partial improvement of PGC-1α. In contrast, Nrf2 and TFAM did not differ significantly from the UVB-irradiated group. These findings support the potential of TCEVs to prevent UVB-induced keratinocyte damage under the present in vitro conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040188

Authors: Seonhong Min Gadug Han Jaehyeon Kim

Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem®, cCaHA, PDLLA, PLLA, and PCL—with respect to particle morphology and size distribution, in vitro cytotoxicity, collagen-stimulating gene expression, and macrophage cytokine secretion profiles. Particle size and distribution were determined by laser diffraction. Cytotoxicity was assessed in L929 mouse fibroblasts using the CCK-8 assay at concentrations of 0.1–5 mg/mL. Collagen-stimulating activity was evaluated by measuring COL1A1 and COL3A2 mRNA expression in primary human fibroblasts via quantitative RT-PCR. Macrophage immune responses were profiled by a multiplexed cytokine array (40 analytes) in lipopolysaccharide/interferon-γ-polarised M1 and interleukin-4/interleukin-13-polarised M2 macrophages. Scanning electron microscopy revealed distinct morphological differences among the five products. PDLLA exhibited the smallest median particle size (d(0.5) = 24.9 μm) and highest specific surface area (701.4 m2/kg), while PLLA showed the broadest size distribution (Span = 1.617). All products maintained cell viability above 85% at all tested concentrations, indicating acceptable biocompatibility. Facetem®, PDLLA, and PLLA significantly upregulated COL1A1 expression in human fibroblasts; PDLLA and Facetem® also significantly increased COL3A2 expression. Cytokine profiling demonstrated that the products did not substantially alter pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion in M1 macrophages, whereas selected products at high concentrations modulated several mediators in M2 macrophages, suggesting a tissue-remodelling rather than inflammatory response. These findings demonstrate product-specific physicochemical and biological profiles that may guide clinician selection and formulation development of injectable dermal fillers. Facetem® exhibited a favourable combination of biocompatibility, collagen-stimulating activity, and immune-modulatory properties comparable or superior to established reference products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040187

Authors: Jeong-Hoo Lee Jia Yoo Young-Youn Kim Hye-Sung Kim

Probiotic strains with multifunctional skin-beneficial properties represent promising candidates for next-generation cosmetic ingredients. In this study, a systematic stepwise screening strategy was applied to an in-house bacterial library comprising 302 isolates to identify candidates with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wound-healing, and skin barrier-supportive activities. From this library, 33 strains were selected based on preliminary assessments and subjected to comprehensive in vitro evaluation. Cell viability and cytotoxicity assays confirmed the safety of all selected strains in RAW264.7 macrophages and HaCaT keratinocytes. Several strains exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity and significantly inhibited nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages. Among the selected candidates, Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus DM073 demonstrated the most potent anti-inflammatory activity, whereas Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM043 exhibited the greatest wound-healing capacity. All five selected strains displayed antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes. Furthermore, selected strains, particularly Lactiplantibacillus plantarum DM175 and Ligilactobacillus salivarius DM079, enhanced the expression of skin barrier-related genes, including zonula occludens-1 (ZO-1), occludin (OCLN), claudin-1 (Cla-1), and filaggrin (FLG), and partially restored their expression under TNF-α/IFN-γ-induced inflammatory conditions. Selected strains also reduced the expression of inflammatory chemokines in stimulated keratinocytes. Collectively, these findings demonstrate that the selected probiotic strains possess complementary multifunctional activities associated with skin health. In particular, DM073 exhibited superior anti-inflammatory activity, DM043 showed strong wound-healing potential, and DM175 demonstrated remarkable skin barrier-supportive effects. These strain-specific properties support their potential application in the development of probiotic-derived postbiotic cosmetic ingredients for skin soothing, barrier reinforcement, skin recovery, and microbiome-friendly skincare formulations. Further studies are warranted to evaluate their efficacy and safety in advanced skin models and clinical cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040186

Authors: Dávid Laššák Patrícia Jackuliaková Daniel Krchňák Mária Čuchorová Miroslava Špaglová

The stability of sunscreen formulations is a key factor influencing their protective efficacy and safety, particularly under UV exposure, which can induce photodegradation of UV filters. (1) Background: This study aimed to evaluate the effect of selected antioxidants (stabilized vitamin C, carrot macerate, and ferulic acid) on the sun protection factor (SPF) and photostability of sunscreen formulations. (2) Methods: Four oil-in-water creams with identical compositions, except for the antioxidant type, were prepared and characterized in terms of SPF, rheological behavior, pH, conductivity, stability, and sensory properties. SPF was determined using an in vitro spectrophotometric method before and after UV irradiation (30 and 120 min). (3) Results: Antioxidant incorporation increased initial SPF, with ferulic acid providing the most significant enhancement. After UV exposure, all formulations exhibited a decrease in SPF. However, the formulation containing ferulic acid maintained the highest absolute SPF value, indicating superior photostability. In contrast, vitamin C showed the greatest reduction in SPF, suggesting lower stability under irradiation. Physical characterization confirmed appropriate properties of the formulations, and sensory analysis identified the ferulic acid formulation as the most acceptable. (4) Conclusions: Ferulic acid demonstrated the most favorable impact on sunscreen performance, suggesting its potential as an effective multifunctional ingredient in sunscreens.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040185

Authors: Anthony Groso Paul Jabet Yue Zhang Yanshan Xie Ping Wang Zejian Wang Richard Daniellou Guillaume Collet

Background and objective: A huge part of cosmetics research is devoted to the identification of new molecules and new ingredients which could prevent skin aging. Crithmum maritimum has attracted interest in the cosmetic field because it has been used since antiquity in traditional medicine and is traditionally consumed in Mediterranean regions. However, data about demonstrated efficacy on living cells remain sparse. To better understand the potential of this plant for the cosmetics industry, we aimed to investigate in vitro some key properties in line with anti-aging skin care. Methods and results: Molecular results demonstrated an impressive antioxidant effect which was confirmed in vitro on living keratinocytes with a decrease of 50% of oxidative stress measured with the fluorescent CM-H2DCFDA probe. Additionally, an inhibitory effect around 20% was observed on isolated collagenase and elastase, highlighting the ability of C. maritimum to preserve the skin matrix. Lastly, anti-inflammatory properties were explored at protein levels by ELISA method, indicating a clear decrease of six inflammatory mediators, IL-6, IL-8, IL-18, CXCL9, CXCL10, and CCL5, on stressed keratinocytes. These observed decreases span from 20% up to 75% in the case of the IL-18. Conclusions: All together, these results reveal how efficient C. maritimum extract could be to alleviate signs of aging.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040184

Authors: Yury Shkryl Elena Vasyutkina Yulia Yugay

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs), also referred to as plant exosomes or exosome-like nanovesicles, have emerged as promising natural bioactive nanoparticles for cosmetic and regenerative applications. Owing to their biocompatibility, intrinsic bioactive cargo, and ability to interact with mammalian cells, PDEVs are increasingly investigated as agents for skin rejuvenation, wound healing, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and skin barrier enhancement. However, the available evidence remains fragmented across different plant sources and experimental models. This review aimed to summarize and critically evaluate the current evidence regarding the cosmetic and regenerative properties of PDEVs. Experimental studies investigating the effects of PDEVs on skin cells, reconstructed skin models, animals, or human subjects were systematically identified and analyzed. The available evidence consistently demonstrated that PDEVs promote skin regeneration and tissue repair. The most frequently reported effects included enhanced keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation and migration, accelerated wound closure, increased collagen synthesis, reduced oxidative stress, activation of antioxidant defense pathways, and suppression of inflammatory responses. Additional studies reported improvements in skin barrier function, hydration, photoprotection, pigmentation control, and cellular senescence. Collectively, the available studies demonstrate consistent regenerative, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective effects of PDEVs. Overall, PDEVs represent multifunctional bioactive nanomaterials with substantial potential for cosmetic applications. While clinical translation remains limited by regulatory and standardization challenges, cosmetic use appears to offer a more immediate route toward commercialization. Further standardization, mechanistic studies, and clinical investigations are required to support the broader implementation of PDEV-based technologies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040183

Authors: Francesca De Gennaro Enza Cestone Vincenzo Nobile

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and growing evidence suggests that nutritional interventions, particularly probiotics, may modulate key biological pathways involved in skin barrier function, hydration, and oxidative stress through the gut–skin axis. Methods: In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, 66 adults received a probiotic formulation containing Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus LRH020, Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PBS067, and Limosilactobacillus reuteri PBS072 for 56 days, followed by a 28-day follow-up. Skin structure, function, and oxidative status were assessed using 3D profilometry, high-frequency ultrasound, corneometry, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), FRAP assay, and expert clinical scoring. Results: Compared with placebo, the probiotic group showed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−15.0% at T56), and roughness (−6.1% at T56). Moreover, other skin parameters were significantly enhanced by the end of treatment, including greater skin density, hydration, and antioxidant capacity, alongside a reduction in TEWL. Improvements persisted at follow-up, suggesting a durable, lasting benefit of the probiotic formulation beyond the treatment period. Conclusions: These findings support the role of targeted probiotic supplementation as a promising strategy to improve structural, functional, and oxidative markers of skin aging.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040182

Authors: Amanda Rubia de Figueiredo Trindade Samanta Shiraishi Kagueyama Isadora de Brito Hilario Luís Felipe Oliva dos Santos José Rivaldo dos Santos Filho Rúbia Carvalho Gomes Corrêa Cristina Giatti Marques de Souza Adelar Bracht Rosane Marina Peralta

Agro-industrial residues have emerged as promising sources of bioactive compounds for dermo-cosmetic applications, particularly as inhibitors of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase. However, the interpretation of reported inhibitory activities is frequently complicated by variations in extraction strategies, matrix composition, assay design, and methodological rigor. This critical narrative review examines how these factors collectively influence the reliability, comparability, and translational relevance of enzyme inhibition data obtained from residue-derived extracts. The literature was analyzed using a framework-oriented approach based on representative peer-reviewed studies selected according to their methodological quality, experimental design, and mechanistic relevance. The analysis integrates three complementary dimensions: extraction and processing strategies, compositional complexity of the recovered matrices, and evidence quality supporting the reported bioactivities. The reviewed literature demonstrates that enzyme inhibition is rarely an intrinsic property of isolated compounds but rather an emergent behavior arising from complex physicochemical systems in which synergistic interactions, matrix effects, and assay-dependent artefacts frequently influence the observed responses. The widespread reliance on simplified in vitro screening methods, often without dose–response evaluation, kinetic characterization, or adequate control of assay interference, remains a major obstacle to reproducibility and cross-study comparison. Based on this analysis, an integrative framework is proposed to guide the interpretation of enzyme inhibition in complex botanical extracts by explicitly linking process design, matrix composition, and methodological evidence. This perspective provides a more robust basis for the identification, validation, and industrial translation of sustainable bioactive ingredients obtained from agro-industrial residues for next-generation dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040181

Authors: Basanta Bhujel Kyu Sang Eah Soon Suk Kang Ho Seok Chung Hun Lee Jae-Yong Kim

Eye cosmetics, including eyeliners, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyebrow products, are widely used to enhance the aesthetic appearance of the eyes. While generally considered safe, their application to the delicate periocular region can pose significant risks to ocular surface health. Growing clinical and experimental evidence links the use of eye cosmetics to ocular surface disorders, including blepharitis, conjunctivitis, dry eye syndrome, and meibomian gland dysfunction. These adverse effects may result from mechanical irritation, chemical exposure, microbial contamination, or allergic reactions associated with cosmetic ingredients such as pigments, preservatives, emulsifiers, and fragrances. In addition, emerging periocular aesthetic procedures and novel formulations containing nanoparticles and complex additives may further contribute to ocular surface instability and inflammation. The growing popularity of eye cosmetics, influenced by social media, cultural trends, and the global beauty industry, underscores the importance of understanding their impact on ocular health. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the composition, types, ocular migration, and potential adverse effects of eye cosmetics and periocular aesthetic practices. By highlighting the clinical implications of cosmetic use on the ocular surface, this study emphasizes the need for evidence-based guidance, safe cosmetic practices, and further research to mitigate lifestyle-related ocular risks.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040180

Authors: Keran Jia Xiao Ning Liya Song Jin Cao

The skin surface is a dynamic biochemical interface where proteins, polysaccharides, lipids, and microbial or environmental molecules are continuously exposed to ultraviolet(UV) radiation, oxidative stress, mechanical stimulation, pH variation, host-derived enzymes, and microbial enzymes. These factors can generate heterogeneous macromolecular fragments on the skin surface through cleavage, oxidation, structural modification, or enzymatic degradation. However, current evidence does not support interpreting these fragments uniformly as active regulatory molecules. Instead, they should be considered a mixed molecular population that may include passive degradation products, stress-associated markers, host- or microbiome-derived cleavage products and, in some contexts, molecules with potential biological activity. This review summarizes current knowledge on the formation mechanisms, analytical detection, and possible biological relevance of skin surface macromolecular fragments, with emphasis on hyaluronic acid, collagen, keratin, lipids, and microbiome-associated fragments. Evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies is distinguished to clarify the strengths and limitations of current interpretations. Particular attention is given to contradictory findings, concentration-dependent effects, source attribution, contamination, matrix interference, lack of reference standards, and insufficient functional validation. Overall, skin surface macromolecular fragmentation is better viewed as an emerging analytical and biological framework rather than as a proven regulatory mechanism. Future studies should combine standardized sampling, validated mass spectrometry(MS) workflows, multi-omics integration, reconstructed skin models, microbiota-related models, and controlled human studies to determine whether specific fragments are degradation products, biomarkers, or context-dependent functional molecules.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040179

Authors: Zheng Wang Yumei Fan Luxian Zhou Dandan Jiang Jiajun Qian Peixue Ling

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is widely used in skincare, but its efficacy varies with molecular weight (MW), affecting its skin penetration and activity. This study examined whether HA20, a broad-MW HA complex (weight-average MW: 188 kDa, 10–1000 kDa), improves skin absorption and shields human skin models from environmental stress. HA transepidermal bioavailability, extracellular-matrix responses, glyoxal-induced Nε-(carboxymethyl)lysine (CML), UVA-induced mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) loss, Th2 cytokine-induced markers, and dryness-induced barrier changes were assessed in reconstructed human epidermis, dermal fibroblasts, and epidermal keratinocytes. HA20 exhibited greater apparent permeation detectable by ELISA at all time points during the 24 h RHE assay compared to high-MW HA. In fibroblasts, 0.05% HA20 increased type I collagen secretion from 535.20 to 585.47 pg/mL and elastin from 8.68 to 9.24 pg/mL, reduced CML fluorescence to 70.13% of the glyoxal control, and increased MMP-associated fluorescence from 58.76% in the UVA model group to 298.86%. In keratinocytes, 0.1% HA20 reduced IL-4/IL-13-induced NELL2 and CAII expression. Under acute dryness, HA20 maintained stratum corneum morphology and altered transcriptomic signatures related to epidermal differentiation, extracellular matrix organization, and barrier-associated genes, including KRT37, COL7A1, ACER2, and SPRR1A. These findings suggest that HA20 supports barrier resilience mainly through improved transepidermal delivery and ECM or barrier-repair responses.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040178

Authors: Giovanni Deusebio Annalisa Visciglia Angela Amoruso Marco Pane

Background: The axillary microbiome is a major contributor to body malodor generation through bacterial metabolism of apocrine and eccrine secretions. Dysbiosis of this microbial community, particularly through overgrowth of odorigenic species such as Staphylococcus aureus, is associated with increased volatile compound production and local skin inflammation. Heat-treated postbiotics represent a promising class of cosmetic ingredients combining microbiological safety with retained bioactive properties. Objective: We aimed to evaluate the in vitro safety, molecular mechanisms, antipathogen and anti-inflammatory properties of heat-treated Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus Skinbac™ SB06, and to assess the antiperspirant and deodorant efficacy of a deodorant spray formulation containing 1% SB06 in a controlled clinical study. Methods: In vitro studies assessed cytotoxicity (MTT/LDH assays), Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, antipathogen activity against Staphylococcus aureus (AlamarBlue assay), cytokine modulation (TNF-α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-23) in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and Peripheral Blood Mononuclear Cells (PBMCs), and axillary microbiome compatibility against Corynebacterium striatum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Staphylococcus hominis by viable plate count (CFU/mL). Clinically, a randomized split-body study (n = 20) evaluated antiperspirant effectiveness by gravimetric sweat collection and deodorant efficacy by expert olfactory panel (Likert 1–5) at 24 and 48 h. Results: In vitro testing confirmed the safety of SB06 (MTT and LDH, both non-significant vs. control). SB06 significantly increased AQP3 expression (+20%, p < 0.001) and significantly reduced ROS production (−48%, p < 0.05). Antipathogen testing showed significant reduction in S. aureus planktonic viability (−7%, p < 0.05). Microbiome compatibility testing on selected axillary-associated strains showed a differential compatibility profile, with the strongest inhibitory effect observed for C. striatum (13% residual viability at T24h, corresponding to 87% inhibition), near-complete preservation of S. epidermidis (92% residual viability at T48h), and a mild reduction in S. hominis (−15% at T48h). Cytokine modulation showed significant IL-8 and IL-23 reduction in NHEK (both p ≤ 0.05) and immunostimulatory activity in PBMCs. Clinically, SB06 reduced sweat production vs. placebo by −21.8% at T24 (p = 0.0009) and −10.0% at T48 (p = 0.0495), with significantly lower odor intensity at both timepoints (median score 3 vs. 4, p < 0.0001). Conclusions: Heat-treated L. rhamnosus SB06 showed a multimodal in vitro profile including antipathogen, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and AQP3-upregulating activities, and was associated with statistically significant antiperspirant and deodorant effects in a randomized controlled split-body study. These findings are consistent with SB06 being a functional postbiotic ingredient with potential for deodorant and antiperspirant applications, pending confirmation in larger controlled studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040177

Authors: Gabriel Siquier-Dameto Pere Boadas-Vaello Enrique Verdú

Background: Cutaneous microcirculation is crucial for skin appearance and rejuvenation, influencing color, luminosity and texture. Aging reduces microcirculation and alters skin color parameters. This study investigated the long-term effects of intradermal CellBooster® Lift (CBL), a mechanically stabilized hyaluronic acid complex enriched with amino acids and vitamins, on skin microcirculation, color, and aesthetics in healthy adults. This study was registered at clinicaltrial.gov (NCT06000839). Methods: 36 women and 4 men aged 35–55 received three intradermal injections of 3 mL CBL across the face at two-week intervals. Cutaneous microcirculation was assessed using a PeriFlux 5000® laser Doppler system at 7 and 84 days post-treatment. Skin color parameters, including lightness (L*), redness (a*), yellow-blue component (b*), individual typology angle (ITA°), individual whitening angle (IWA°), color homogeneity (H76), saturation, and luminance-saturation ratio, were analyzed using Visia® CR 2D imaging. Aesthetic improvement was evaluated by both participants and medical practitioners using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Results: At 84 days post-treatment, CBL significantly enhanced cutaneous microcirculation and induced favorable changes in all measured skin color parameters: L*, ITA°, IWA°, and luminance-saturation ratio increased, while a*, b*, H76, and saturation decreased in women, but no changes were seen in men. No significant differences were observed between female age groups. On the GAIS, approximately 70–73% of participants reported improvement or significant improvement, while medical practitioners rated improvement in up to 93% of cases. Conclusions: Intradermal CBL administration improves cutaneous microcirculation and skin color characteristics, contributing to a more youthful appearance in adults aged 35–55, with consistent effects across age groups and high subjective and clinical aesthetic ratings.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040176

Authors: Zoran Golušin Bojana Spasić Nemanja Maletin Nikola Denda Marija Ranđelović Maša Golubović Iva Binić Ivana Binić

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that alter skin texture and microrelief. Non-invasive imaging techniques enable objective longitudinal assessment of these characteristics. This study aimed to instrumentally and subjectively evaluate skin surface changes during a standardized 90-day dermocosmetic regimen containing multiple active ingredients. Methods: This prospective, single-arm observational study included 47 women aged 30–60 years with visible signs of facial skin aging. Participants applied a standardized anti-age serum and cream regimen twice daily for 90 days. Skin surface morphology was assessed at baseline and after 30, 60, and 90 days using Visioscan® VC 20plus imaging with SELS® software. Subjective outcomes were evaluated using a structured product questionnaire and the validated Skindex-16 instrument. Results: Significant temporal changes were observed across objective skin surface parameters. From baseline to day 90, mean skin roughness decreased from 4.99 ± 2.29 to 1.66 ± 0.67, while the wrinkle-related parameter decreased from 191.08 ± 87.26 to 74.27 ± 15.25. Reductions were also observed in scaliness, contrast, entropy, variance, and anisotropy, whereas smoothness, homogeneity, and energy increased over time. Skindex-16 scores decreased across Symptoms, Emotions, and Functioning domains, indicating lower participant-reported dermatology-related burden. The regimen was well tolerated, with no serious adverse events reported. Conclusions: In this exploratory single-arm observational study, the standardized dermocosmetic regimen was associated with measurable longitudinal changes in Visioscan-derived skin surface parameters and patient-reported outcomes over 90 days. Because the study included no control group, the findings cannot establish causality or isolate the contribution of individual regimen components.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040175

Authors: Cristina-Ionela Stănciulescu Andreea-Roxana Ungureanu Virgil Pătrașcu Cornelia Bejenaru Marilena-Viorica Hovaneţ Gabi Topor

Intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging alter skin structure and function, while hydrating products and regenerative therapies such as platelet-rich plasma (PRP) support the restoration of skin homeostasis and clinical appearance. This in vivo study aimed to evaluate whether a combination of a hydrating cream and PRP improves skin texture. Three groups of participants were treated over 90 days with hydrating cream, intradermal PRP, and hydrating cream enriched with PRP (HC-PRP). The evaluation was conducted by dermoanalysis at each 30 days with two main indices, moisture and texture, and six complementary indices, oil, complexion, 3D, pigment, phlogosis, and pores. The best texture outcomes were observed in the HC-PRP group, which showed a significant improvement over time and better results than the cream alone (significant after Bonferroni correction). For the moisture index, the hydrating cream alone gave the largest increase, consistent with its primary action, although HC-PRP was also associated with a moderate increase. These exploratory results point to a potential benefit of the HC-PRP combination for skin texture and offer a starting point for future research. Further randomized studies on larger samples are required to validate these observations and to establish the contribution of PRP.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040174

Authors: Mihaela Afrodita Dan Emma Adriana Ozon Denisa Margina Marina Ionela Nedea Claudia Maria Guțu Anca Ungurianu George Mihai Nițulescu Violeta Popovici Adina Magdalena Musuc Veronica Bratan Mihai Anastasescu Ioana Cristina Marinas Daniela Luiza Baconi Andreea Letitia Arsene Dumitru Lupuliasa Eugen Tarta

Plant extracts in vegetable oils are foundational and eco-responsible for skin care, combining their emollient properties with other additional benefits, derived from their antioxidant, antimicrobial and UV-absorbing activity. The present research conducted a complex investigation of Usnea barbata extract in Karanja oil (KO), aiming for its further incorporation into various cosmetic formulations. The lichen extract (UBKO) was obtained through cold maceration. Phytochemical screening was performed using the Folin–Ciocalteu method and Graphite Furnace Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry (GFAAS). Physicochemical properties were evaluated via Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM). The rheological behavior and oxidative stability of the oil samples, UBKO and KO, were also investigated. UBKO had a slightly lower density (0.827 vs. 0.955) and pH (4.22 vs. 4.86) than KO, and a slightly higher oxidative resistance, quantified as the induction period (IP) value (6.45 vs. 6.00). The total phenolic-equivalent content (TPC, µg GAE/mL oil sample) was significantly greater in UBKO than in KO (567.16 ± 14.96 vs. 433.26 ± 22.96, p = 0.001). The values of minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC, mg/mL) indicated significantly higher antibacterial effect against S. aureus and antifungal effect against C. albicans for UBKO than KO (9.62 ± 2.87 vs. 31.25 ± 18.75, p = 0.049, and, respectively, 5.06 ± 1.68 vs. 37.50 ± 12.50, p = 0.01). Finally, our results showed that UBKO had an estimated sun-protective factor (SPF) of 30.9, slightly higher than 29.8 for the base oil formulation, KO; these findings represent baseline in vitro UV-absorbing trends. All of these results suggest that U. barbata extract in Karanja oil may exhibit complementary bioactive properties with potential applications in skincare.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040173

Authors: Anna Iacovou Chrysi Chaikali Sophia Letsiou Εvangelos Papaspyros Michael Kornaros Fotini N. Lamari Konstantinos Avgoustakis Sophia Hatziantoniou

Cod liver oil is a rich source of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) but is highly susceptible to oxidative degradation, limiting its use in topical formulations. This study aimed to develop stable cod liver oil nanoemulsions for topical application and to evaluated the influence of surfactant ratio (lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate: 2.5:1 and 1:1, w/w), emulsification method (ultrasonication or high-pressure homogenization), and vitamin E acetate supplementation on their physicochemical properties and oxidative stability. Eight nanoemulsions were characterized in terms of droplet size, polydispersity, ζ-potential, vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency, oxidative stability, film-forming capacity and cytocompatibility. Among the investigated formulations, F4 (2.5:1 lecithin/PEG-15 hydroxystearate, high-pressure homogenization, with vitamin E acetate) exhibited the most favorable characteristics, including a mean droplet size of 67.95 nm, ζ-potential of −63.12 mV and vitamin E acetate encapsulation efficiency of 32.59%. The formulation demonstrated good physicochemical stability under thermal, mechanical and photostability testing, improved oxidative stability, transient film-forming behavior with an initial occlusive effect, and no cytotoxicity toward human dermal fibroblasts. These findings indicate that nanoemulsion performance depends on the combined influence of formulation composition and processing conditions, with F4 representing a promising topical carrier for cod liver oil intended for interaction with the stratum corneum.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040172

Authors: Wonkyu Hong Jaewoo Kim Seongmin Noh Joonho Shim Seok-Kwang Park Mihwa Kim

This study aimed to evaluate whether the Synerjet system can maximize the transdermal delivery and skin rejuvenation of nano-NMN. In a 4-week split-face trial (n = 21), this combination demonstrated marked clinical superiority over topical nano-NMN alone (p < 0.001), yielding enhanced improvements in wrinkles (with 170.56% relative improvement in periorbital and 154.45% in nasolabial region compared to the control group), pore volume (176.62%), and deep hydration (188.02%). Regarding dermal integrity, the test group showed a 111.56% superior increment in skin elasticity and a 149.75% more effective optimization of melanin intensity relative to the control. Notably, deep-tissue hydration at a 2.5 mm depth demonstrated a 188.02% higher gain, suggesting that the modality significantly fortifies the skin’s physiological moisture reservoir. The test group exhibited a marked improvement over the control across all cutaneous parameters (p < 0.001). Our findings demonstrate that a new combinatorial approach using EP-assisted microjet of a Synerjet system after cold plasma pretreatment and a nano-NMN 10% ampoule resulted in significantly greater improvements in wrinkles, pores, elasticity, pigmentation, and deep skin hydration compared to topical application alone. Consequently, these results demonstrated that the Synerjet system effectively overcame the inherent limitations of nano-delivery technologies, offering a promising modality for advanced cutaneous rejuvenation and a robust framework for future professional dermatological treatments.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040171

Authors: Mi-Jin Lee Hari Jang Woo-Yong Song Eunjandi Go Kyong Jin Lee Boo-Sik Jang

Natural materials derived from plants have attracted considerable attention as sustainable ingredients for skin-related applications. In this study, we evaluated the antioxidant and skin-related biological activities of a plant-derived peptide preparation obtained from Sesamum indicum L. by enzymatic hydrolysis (Vegan Sesamcoll, SCP). The antioxidant activity of SCP was assessed using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays. SCP inhibited collagenase activity and increased type I collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. In addition, SCP increased hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) protein production in human epidermal keratinocytes. These findings indicate that SCP exhibited concentration dependent radical scavenging activity, collagenase inhibitory activity, increased type I collagen production, and enhanced HAS2/HAS3 protein production in vitro in human skin cells. The results suggest that SCP may have potential as a plant-derived cosmetic ingredient for skin-related applications. However, additional studies, including further characterization of the peptide preparation, mechanistic investigations, bioavailability evaluation, and human clinical studies, are required to further validate its biological activities and potential cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040170

Authors: Han Tao Qian Wang Qiansong Yu Xiaosheng Liu Sue Chang Yun Li

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires objective, non-invasive endpoints alongside standardized clinical grading. Aim: This study aimed to evaluate the clinical and instrumental efficacy of a multi-active topical cream on static and dynamic wrinkles over 8 weeks of twice-a-day use. Methods: After a 2-week washout, we conducted a monocentric, open-label study on 62 Chinese women (25–55) who used the topical cream twice daily for 8 weeks (per-protocol n = 49; dynamic-wrinkle subset n = 41; dermatologist 0–9 grading at T0/Timm/W4/W8). The instrumental endpoints were PRIMOS-CR wrinkle morphometry (forehead, crow’s feet) and periocular high-frequency ultrasound (UC22). Dynamic wrinkles were assessed via high-speed smile imaging (max P10; mean P1–P10). Statistics comprised Wilcoxon’s tests for dermatologist-graded (ordinal) endpoints and repeated-measures ANOVA with Dunnett’s tests for continuous instrumental endpoints (α = 0.05). Results: Improvements were evident at Timm (periorbital elasticity −17.70%, global-face elasticity −15.23%, firmness −19.47%, smoothness −20.16%, radiance −25.75%; all p < 0.001). By Week 8, dermatologist-graded wrinkles generally decreased: crow’s feet −26.89%, under-eye −33.74%, glabellar −35.30%, forehead −34.69% (all p < 0.001). PRIMOS showed reductions in wrinkle area/length (forehead area −8.69%, length −12.05%; crow’s feet area −8.70%, length −16.03%; all p < 0.001). Ultrasound indicated increased periocular epidermal thickness (+26.57%) and density (+12.69%) (both p = 0.005). Dynamic-wrinkle grades improved during smiling (under-eye: max −12.64%, mean −15.74%; crow’s feet: max −15.97%, mean −16.89%; all p < 0.001), with reductions across P1–P10. Conclusions: In real-life, with twice-daily use, the multi-active cream demonstrated significant within-subject improvements in both static and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles, as supported by dermatologist grading, PRIMOS 3D wrinkle morphometry, and periocular high-frequency ultrasound.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040169

Authors: Thanyaluck Siriyong Julalak Chorachoo Ontong Sudarshan Singh Popat Mohite Sakawrat Pannara Wanphen Buakong Waraporn Pechkeo Lapasrada Inchan Chuda Chittasupho

This study investigates the optimization of extraction conditions, phytochemical contents, biological activities, and cosmeceutical potential of Eurycoma longifolia Jack extracts obtained from wild and cultivated plant roots, stems, and leaves. HPLC analysis revealed that eurycomanone was predominantly accumulated in the root extracts. Among the extraction solvents, 70% ethanol exhibited the most effective extraction of bioactive compounds. Leaf extracts showed the highest total flavonoid content (255.71–269.67 mg quercetin/g sample) and total phenolic content (20.34–20.80 mg gallic acid/g sample). Furthermore, 70% ethanol leaf extracts demonstrated strong antioxidant activity with DPPH IC50 values of 6.37 ± 0.74 and 7.95 ± 0.86 µg/mL for wild and cultivated samples, respectively, and potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity with IC50 values of 50.71 ± 3.92 and 55.80 ± 4.75 µg/mL. The extracts also exhibited selective antibacterial activity against Gram-positive bacteria. Moreover, the in silico molecular docking of biflorin against the 2QVD protein exhibited the highest binding affinity (−7.4 kcal/moL). Anti-inflammatory activity was evidenced by nitric oxide inhibition in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages without significant cytotoxicity. Overall, 70% ethanol extracts, particularly from leaves and roots, exhibited promising biological activities and may serve as potential natural ingredients for future cosmeceutical applications. However, further studies are required to confirm their efficacy and safety before practical applications can be considered.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040168

Authors: Binal Dobariya Ghazaleh Fazlikhani Marian E. Delsing Robert Beinio Dirk P. Bockmühl

Cosmetic formulations containing natural or minimally processed raw materials are prone to microbial contamination, which can compromise product safety and quality. The standard ISO 11930 preservation challenge test employs a predefined set of test microorganisms, which may not adequately represent product-associated contaminants. In the present study, an adapted ISO 11930 preservation challenge test was applied to compare the antimicrobial performance of four preservative systems in an oil-in-water cosmetic formulation. In addition to the five standard reference strains, seven environmental and raw-material-associated microorganisms associated with walnut and apricot kernel shells were included. All preservative-containing formulations fulfilled the required acceptance criteria; however, marked differences in time-dependent antimicrobial activity were observed between preservative systems. Among the tested systems, the formulation containing 0.4% potassium sorbate demonstrated the most rapid and broad-spectrum antimicrobial performance across the expanded microbial panel. In contrast, combinations of potassium sorbate with sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol showed slower antimicrobial efficacy. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that reliance solely on standard reference microorganisms may underestimate preservation risks in cosmetics that use naturally derived raw materials. The adaptive preservation challenge test is a risk assessment approach for evaluating the microbiological stability of cosmetic formulations with reduced-preservative systems.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040167

Authors: Naoki Doi Sayaka Eiyama Kazuichi Araki Kyosuke Miyagawa Ayaka Koike Yukinori Yamauchi Shin-ichi Kondo Masayuki Kuzuya

Skin cells exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation may experience reduced elasticity in skin tissue due to the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the overexpression of collagen type I-degrading enzymes (MMP-1). Beyond preventing UV exposure with sunscreen, components that protect the inner surface of skin tissue may suppress the expression of ROS and their subsequent effects. In this study, the suppression of ROS production from UV-A-irradiated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) using Chaga-derived polyphenol decoction (CPD) was examined with confocal laser scanning microscopy. Pretreatment with CPD reduced ROS expression to less than 5% compared to the blank. The evaluation of MMP-1 expression levels induced by ROS production from UV-A-irradiated NHDFs using an ELISA showed that MMP-1 expression in CPD-pretreated NHDFs was suppressed by more than 30% compared to untreated NHDFs. Furthermore, three-dimensional collagen gels containing NHDFs were prepared, and a dynamic mechanical analysis of the elasticity of UV-A-irradiated gels revealed that pretreatment with CPD maintained elasticity at more than five times that of the CPD-untreated gel. These findings suggest that CPD may be promising as a functional food for protecting skin tissue.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040166

Authors: Taradon Khonsiri Woottichai Nachaiwieng Anon Paichitrojjana Pattaramon Vuttipittayamongkol

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory skin condition that requires accurate severity assessment for effective management. As a step toward more objective and reproducible severity assessment, this study developed an optimized transfer learning-based convolutional neural network (CNN) framework for facial acne severity classification using a restricted, imbalanced, non-public facial image dataset. A total of 442 frontal facial images were collected under natural lighting conditions. Acne severity was graded by a board-certified dermatologist using the Investigator’s Global Assessment (IGA) scale and categorized into three levels. The study systematically investigated model architecture selection, hyperparameter tuning, optimizer comparison, cross-validation, and class-imbalance handling through random oversampling, Synthetic Minority Over-sampling Technique (SMOTE), and Generative Adversarial Networks (GANs). The 5-fold cross-validation experiment supported the reliability of model performance across different data partitions, achieving an accuracy of 0.51. Resampling methods showed limited overall benefit, although some methods altered class-wise prediction patterns. To further examine model behavior, Gradient-weighted Class Activation Mapping (Grad-CAM) visualization was used to provide qualitative insight into the facial regions contributing to model predictions. Although the findings are limited by dataset size and diversity, the proposed framework suggests exploratory feasibility for automated acne severity assessment. Rather than serving as an immediately deployable clinical tool, this pipeline provides a preliminary baseline framework that requires further validation using larger, more diverse datasets, particularly to address subtle visual differences between acne severity classes.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040165

Authors: Peerawas Kopongpanich Kittima Lekmanee Kittipong Sanookpan Vipaporn Panapisal Chavee Laomeephol Sornkanok Vimolmangkang Visarut Buranasudja Jittima Amie Luckanagul

Acne is a common inflammatory skin condition that significantly impacts quality of life. Standard treatments often cause skin irritation or contribute to antibiotic resistance. Cannabidiol (CBD) has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties; however, its application is limited by poor solubility and stability. This study investigated the physicochemical properties of a CBD-loaded hyaluronic acid–graft-poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) nanogel (Hy-CBD). The biological activities of Hy-CBD, including its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, were also evaluated. In addition, an exploratory clinical study was conducted to assess the safety and efficacy of the formulation in 22 Asian participants with inflammatory acne. In this open-label, non-randomized study, participants applied the gel twice daily for seven days. Assessments of skin tolerance, lesion size, redness, and pigmentation were performed at baseline, Day 2, and Day 7 using clinical examination and imaging analysis. The Hy-CBD gel was clinically tolerated, with no evidence of comedogenic or acnegenic potential. By Day 7, inflammatory lesion size was reduced by 46%, with significant improvements in redness and post-inflammatory pigmentation. All participants reported a subjective reduction in acne severity and expressed satisfaction with the treatment outcomes. These findings suggest that the Hy-CBD gel is a safe and promising delivery system for acne management. Nevertheless, larger randomized controlled studies are required to validate these preliminary findings.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040164

Authors: Bernard Cambier Diana Barragan Ferrer Luc Huysmans Florence Cambier Jesus Manuel Barragan Ferrer

Glycolic acid is the most widely used alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), largely because of its small molecular size (76 Da), which allows more efficient skin penetration than larger AHAs such as lactic acid (90 Da) or mandelic acid (152 Da). Its efficacy depends on concentration and formulation pH relative to its pKa (~3.8), which determines the amount of free acid available for skin interaction. At pH 3.8, approximately 50% of glycolic acid is present as free acid; at pH 4.5, this fraction falls to approximately 18%. In an 8% formulation, about 4% is free acid at pH 3.8, compared with about 1.4% at pH 4.5. This review examines how formulation design influences the penetration, irritation, and therapeutic outcomes of glycolic acid in professional peels and daily use products. Low-pH, high-concentration professional peels (20–70%, pH approximately 1.0–2.5) promote rapid penetration, calcium chelation-mediated corneodesmosome disruption, and controlled exfoliation, but they also increase irritation and transient transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In contrast, buffered daily use formulations (5–15%, pH 3.5–4.5) provide gradual exfoliation, improved tolerability, and longer-term benefits in skin texture, pigmentation, collagen, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Overall, the safety and efficacy of glycolic acid are highly formulation-dependent, so different design strategies are needed for daily products and professional peels.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040163

Authors: Ziyi Yang Bingchen Han Ying Chen Youqing Wang Yuzhen Huang Jiali Ran Xiaobo Zeng Haiying Wang

This study investigated the protective effect of an optimized naturally derived formulation extract against ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging and its preliminary potential for topical formulation development. A mouse model was established by combined UVA + UVB irradiation and D-galactose administration. Skin phenotype, histopathology, oxidative stress, and inflammation-related indicators were evaluated, and representative constituents were identified by HPLC. The loading level of the active extract was screened using a DPPH radical-scavenging assay, and lotion and cream formulations were optimized through emulsification-condition screening and response surface methodology. The final products were further evaluated for appearance, pH, short-term physical stability, moisture-retention performance, and DPPH radical-scavenging capacity. The extract significantly alleviated skin roughness, wrinkle deepening, epidermal thickening, and collagen fiber disorganization in mice, increased SOD, GSH-Px, and CAT activities, and reduced MDA, ROS, 8-oxoG, TNF-α, IL-6, and MMP-3 levels. HPLC identified representative constituents including 6-gingerol, ferulic acid, senkyunolide, ligustilide, atractylenolide, cinnamaldehyde, quercetin, amygdalin, and sarsasapogenin. The optimal loading level was 1.6 μg/mL. The optimized lotion and cream exhibited acceptable appearance, suitable pH, and short-term physical stability under the tested conditions, while retaining measurable DPPH radical-scavenging capacity. These findings indicate that the naturally derived formulation extract exerts anti-photoaging effects by alleviating oxidative damage, suppressing inflammatory responses, and improving extracellular matrix abnormalities, and that it has preliminary potential for topical formulation development.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040162

Authors: Mohamed Addi Amine Elbouzidi Ahmed Marhri Laurine Garros Duangjai Tungmunnithum Malika Abid Christophe Hano

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three matrices. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) coupled with response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of total flavonoid content (TFC) from press cake using a natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES: fructose–glycerol–sorbitol–water and FGSH), selected through an initial screening of fifteen solvent systems. The quadratic polynomial model showed excellent fit (R2 = 0.9852; R2adj = 0.9687; MAPE = 1.31%; Durbin–Watson = 1.857), and optimal extraction conditions were established at 37.6 min extraction time, 35.6% ultrasonic power, and 29.4 °C, yielding a maximum predicted TFC of 54.78 ± 0.49 mg quercetin equivalents (QE)/mL. HPLC-DAD analysis of the press cake extract revealed five isorhamnetin derivatives as the dominant flavonoids, with isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside (23.18 ± 0.12 mg/g DW) and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (13.80 ± 0.28 mg/g DW) as the most abundant. Comprehensive bioactivity assessment demonstrated significant antioxidant capacities (CUPRAC: 191.35 ± 3.22 µM AAE; ORAC: 184.44 ± 3.44 µM TE; DPPH: 103.47 ± 9.98 µM TE for press cake extract), potent in cellulo ROS/RNS suppression in a yeast UV-stress model (85.9 ± 1.0% inhibition for press cake), and differential tyrosinase inhibition across fractions (press cake: 32.8%; seed: 57.5%; oil: 83.8%), highlighting the oil as a potent anti-melanogenic ingredient. In silico safety prediction (ProTox-II/pkCSM) confirmed the favorable toxicity profiles of all identified isorhamnetin derivatives (LD50 > 5000 mg/kg; Toxicity Class V). These results collectively position Opuntia ficus-indica by-products as high-value natural sources of bioactive flavonoids with applications in cosmetic, nutraceutical, and dermatological formulations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13040161

Authors: Yun Haeng Lee Eun Young Jeong Ye Hyang Kim Sekyung Oh Jee Hee Yoon Ji Ho Park Yoo Jin Lee Duyeol Kim Byeonghyeon So Minseon Kim So Yeon Kim Hyung Wook Kwon Youngjoo Byun Song Seok Shin Joon Tae Park

In the original publication [...]

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030160

Authors: Youngrin Kwag Huijeong Jeong Yoori Kang Min Sook Jung Wonkyu Hong Hongseok Kim

This study validated a controlled in vivo test protocol using a patented particulate exposure chamber (Korean Patent No. 10-2020-0068941) to evaluate the anti-particulate adhesion efficacy of a cosmetic sunscreen formulation (SPF 50+, PA++++). The primary aim was methodological—to demonstrate that the chamber system can reliably detect differences in carbon black adhesion under standardised conditions. A split-site paired design was applied to 22 healthy adult females (mean age 60.3 ± 5.2 years; range 46–68 years). Carbon black particles (≤10 μm) were dispersed via a precision dual-stage pneumatic nozzle within a sealed chamber (22 ± 2 °C; 50 ± 5% RH). Between-group comparison was assessed by the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (primary) and the generalised estimating equation (GEE) model (complementary between-group comparison per institutional SOP). The treated site showed a 55.0% reduction in carbon black adhesion (treated: 4243 ± 2225 pixels; control: 9430 ± 4769 pixels, SE = 4.82, 95% CI: −64.4 to −45.6, Wald Z = −11.41, p < 0.001; Cohen’s d = 2.43). The Wilcoxon test confirmed the result independently (Z = −4.11, p < 0.001). All 22 subjects (100%) showed consistent reduction directionality (individual rates: 22.6–74.2%; mean 51.8%; median 52.3%). Bootstrap resampling (n = 10,000), outlier-exclusion, and exact sign test sensitivity analyses all confirmed robustness. These findings represent proof-of-concept methodological validation applied to a single product under accelerated exposure conditions.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030159

Authors: Sandrine Bergera Virassamnaik Helena Polena Noëlle Remoué Benoît Cadars Elodie Prestat-Marquis Elodie Valin

Background: Epidemiological data link hard and chlorinated water to atopic dermatitis (AD), but experimental evidence on their effect and on dermocosmetic benefit remains limited. Objectives: We aimed to compare the effects of soft, hard, and chlorinated water on atopic skin and assess whether a dermocosmetic routine mitigates these effects. Methods: In a 3-day, open-label, intra-individual study, 66 adults with atopic skin underwent repeated forearm immersions (five cycles/day) in soft, hard, or chlorinated water. One forearm received a cleansing-oil and moisturising-balm routine after each cycle; the contralateral forearm served as untreated control. TEWL, hydration, and global discomfort were assessed. In a 21-day real-life study, adults with AD regularly exposed to hard domestic or swimming-pool water used the routine daily. Discomfort and quality of life were recorded. Results: Water immersion induced modest, inconsistent TEWL changes, increased hydration and slightly reduced discomfort, without differences between water types. The routine reduced TEWL, increased hydration, and decreased discomfort for all water types. In real life, it produced immediate and sustained improvements in discomfort and quality of life. Conclusions: Under controlled exposure, soft, hard, and chlorinated water exert comparable, limited effects on atopic skin. The dermocosmetic routine consistently improves barrier-related parameters and comfort, independently of water type.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030158

Authors: Theeraphan Chumroenphat Nattapong Wongchum Surapon Saensouk Kusawadee Plekratoke Panupong Mahalapbutr Khin Soe Win Saran Chaweerak Subramani Paranthaman Balasubramani Ananya Dechakhamphu

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC50 values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC50 = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC50 = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC50 = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC50 = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030157

Authors: Francesco Marchetti Matteo Basso Giuseppe Colombo Dissapong Panithaporn Maurizio Cavallini

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030156

Authors: Yoana Dimitrova Cleiton Kunzler Kristina Riegel Daniela Schäfer Christina Wollenburg Thomas Hengl Christian Hartmann

Calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA)-based dermal fillers have been shown to help counteract and potentially reverse certain aspects of skin aging. By applying isolated CaHA microspheres, we investigated the importance of the direct contact of dermal cells to microspheres and their role for the expression of extracellular matrix (ECM) components. To this end, human dermal fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of CaHA microspheres. Cell migration, cell–microsphere interaction, and CaHA dose-dependent effects on the expression of ECM proteins were examined using microscopy, mRNA and protein expression analysis. Our results indicated that fibroblasts established direct and close contact to CaHA microspheres. This interaction was associated with a time- and dose-dependent increase in ECM protein expression, including collagen-1, emilin-1, elastin, fibulin-5, fibronectin, and the proteoglycans—lumican and versican. These observations indicate that direct contact between fibroblasts and CaHA microspheres promotes ECM protein expression, suggesting a role for this interaction in supporting skin regeneration and counteracting age-related changes, potentially augmented in vivo by immunomodulatory effects.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030155

Authors: Abdulaziz Balwi Tamer Koldas

Background: Follicular unit extraction (FUE) has become the dominant donor site harvesting technique in modern hair transplantation due to its ability to avoid linear scar formation and its procedural flexibility. However, the donor site is a limited non-regenerative source. Excessive or poorly planned extraction can lead to visible thinning, hypopigmented scarring, and reduced reserve for future procedures. Objective: This study aimed to synthesize current evidence on donor biology, preoperative assessment, extraction strategy, and complication prevention in FUE, and to propose a reproducible clinical framework for donor preservation. Methods: A structured narrative review was conducted using PubMed/MEDLINE, Scopus, and Google Scholar to identify English-language publications related to donor site biology, donor evaluation, extraction density thresholds, complication prevention, repeat session planning, and emerging FUE technologies. Priority was given to recent reviews, clinical trials, consensus statements, and practice-oriented surgical literature. Articles were selected not for formal meta-analytic pooling, but because of their relevance to donor conservation and long-term donor management. Results: The literature reviewed consistently identifies excessive local extraction density, harvesting beyond conservative limits, donor miniaturization, and inadequate reassessment before repeated procedures as the primary drivers of donor morbidity. Evidence from reviews, clinical trials, and expert guidelines supports conservative extraction thresholds, widespread spatial distribution, individualized donor mapping, and phased long-term planning as key strategies for preserving donor aesthetics and reserve. Conclusions: Donor preservation is central to ethical and sustainable FUE surgery. Integration of biologically informed assessment, disciplined extraction control, and mandatory reassessment protocols can reduce morbidity while preserving long-term graft flexibility in patients with progressive androgenetic alopecia.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030154

Authors: Elise Le Roux Mateja Senicar Emmanuelle Villedieu-Percheron Cyril Colas Mialy Randriantsoa Michel Pobeda Emilie Destandau

This study assessed the potential of Oleaster leaves as a valuable cosmetic ingredient by comparing aqueous and hydroalcoholic ultrasound-assisted extracts of Oleaster leaves to those of the Olive tree. The hydroalcoholic Oleaster leaf extract showed a higher content in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, with an oleuropein and verbascoside content of 58 mg/g of dry leaves and 3.2 mg/g of dry leaves, respectively. To refine the comparison of their molecular composition, the extracts were analyzed using UHPLC-HRMS/MS. About twenty compounds, including secoiridoids, flavonoids and triterpenic acid derivatives, were annotated in both extracts, demonstrating their similarity. DPPH, CUPRAC and enzymatic SOD assays showed a good antioxidant activity with high inhibition (60–90%) for both Oleaster and Olive tree leaf extracts. The hydroalcoholic extracts at 62.5 µg/mL also exhibited 60–80% of protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) in H2O2-stressed HaCaT cells, confirming this antioxidant capacity without demonstrating a severe cytotoxicity, which remained below 40%. The anti-inflammatory potential of the extracts was also demonstrated using COX-2 inhibition, which was around 70%, and by measuring the concentration of IL-8 in HaCaT cells under pro-inflammatory conditions, which decreased in the presence of extracts at a concentration of 50 pg/mL, similar to that observed for the positive control. Thus, the hydroalcoholic ultrasound extract of Oleaster leaves demonstrated its high potential to develop sustainable and active cosmetic ingredients.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030153

Authors: Jiahuan Hu Yumei Fan Zirui He Chunhua Wei Yu Xie Shuo Shan Jinhua Li Yuan Yuan

Skin aging is a central focus of skin health. Supramolecular chemistry has emerged as a powerful strategy for enhancing the performance of cosmetic active ingredients. Adenosine is a promising anti-aging ingredient in skincare products, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor water solubility and low skin penetration. This study developed a supramolecular complex combining adenosine with ectoine through cocrystallization. The supramolecular assembly was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed extensive hydrogen-bonding networks between the components. The optimal supramolecular composition (1:1.5 molar ratio) achieved a 5.5-fold increase in water solubility. The supramolecular organization enhanced skin permeability by 3.1-fold in ex vivo porcine skin models. In fibroblast cell models, the supramolecular system exhibited superior antioxidant activity with 30.3% greater reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and restored cellular adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels by 2.1-fold under H2O2-induced oxidative stress compared to individual components. These findings demonstrate that the adenosine–ectoine supramolecular complex represents an innovative multifunctional ingredient for basic anti-aging cosmetics, offering enhanced delivery, improved safety, and superior biological efficacy through supramolecular engineering.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030152

Authors: Zicun Lin Min Xiao Na Li Libin Tu Hao Shi Menghui Li Lixia Yuan Xiangyu Li

Background: N-Acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac), the predominant form of sialic acid, exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycation properties in preclinical studies, suggesting potential dermatological benefits. However, robust clinical evidence supporting the efficacy of oral Neu5Ac supplementation on human skin conditions remains lacking. Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted with 55 Chinese women (40–65 years) who received 120 mg/day Neu5Ac (n = 27) or a matching placebo (n = 28) for 84 days. Skin pigmentation, hydration, biomechanical properties, and dermis echogenicity were evaluated at baseline, D28, D56, and D84 using standardized clinical and instrumental assessments. Results: Both clinical (Pantone color card) and instrumental (photographic) assessments showed that oral Neu5Ac supplementation significantly improved skin lightness on both pigmentary spots and surrounding normal skin compared with placebo at day 84. In addition, stratum corneum hydration and skin biologic extensibility were significantly increased in the Neu5Ac group. Dermal echogenicity showed numerical improvement but did not reach statistical significance. Self-assessment indicated that 100% of the Neu5Ac participants reported improvements in skin whiteness, radiance, elasticity, firmness, and hydration, with mean satisfaction scores of 9.1/10 versus 7.9/10 for placebo. Conclusions: Daily oral supplementation with 120 mg Neu5Ac for 84 days significantly promoted localized spot brightening, enhanced skin hydration, and improved skin elasticity, providing the first clinical evidence supporting Neu5Ac as a safe and effective oral cosmetic ingredient for skin anti-aging.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030151

Authors: Alexandra M. Maldonado López Ivan Domicio da Silva Souza

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation disorder that significantly impacts quality of life. Given the persistent challenges in melasma management, there is a need to evaluate therapies that may offer long-term treatment. This descriptive review analyzes interventional clinical studies involving melasma patients and placebo or hydroquinone (HQ) comparators published between 2014 and 2024. Two human authors screened studies and extracted data, with artificial intelligence used as a human-supervised support tool for screening assistance, data extraction, and discussion synthesis. Study limitations were evaluated descriptively. Treatments were grouped into five categories: HQ-based Standard Treatments, Isolated Molecules as Depigmenting Therapies, Botanical and Antioxidant-Based Therapies, Regenerative and Microenvironment-Modulating Therapies, and Procedure-Assisted and Combination Treatments. HQ remained a key benchmark, although recurrence and tolerability limitations were frequently observed. Several non-HQ or adjunctive approaches demonstrated benefit when administered orally, topically, intradermally, or via iontophoresis. Botanical antioxidants, synbiotics, epidermal growth factor, and platelet-rich plasma also showed promising efficacy. Nevertheless, the evidence base was constrained by small sample sizes, heterogeneous comparators, inconsistent endpoints, mixed objective and subjective assessments, and variable follow-up durations, which prevented meta-analysis. Research on melasma treatment is growing worldwide, with several promising non-HQ and adjunctive strategies emerging. However, standardization of outcomes, comparator selection, and longer follow-up periods is needed to clarify efficacy, tolerability, and relapse prevention throughout diverse skin tones.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030150

Authors: Min-Seo Kim Jang-Hee Hahn

The vitamin D receptor (VDR) plays a pivotal role in maintaining epidermal barrier homeostasis and regulating cutaneous inflammatory responses. However, the cosmetic application of vitamin D and its active metabolites is limited by photoinstability, formulation challenges, and regulatory considerations. In this study, we evaluated a synthetic VDR-activating peptide (VDR-Pep) as a potential functional cosmetic ingredient capable of modulating VDR-associated signaling pathways in human keratinocytes. In situ proximity ligation assays (PLAs) demonstrated that VDR-Pep enhanced the heterodimerization of VDR and retinoid X receptor (RXR), indicating activation of canonical VDR signaling. Treatment with VDR-Pep significantly increased the expression of S100A3 and key terminal differentiation markers, including filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, VDR-Pep stimulated intracellular calcium mobilization at levels comparable to or exceeding those induced by 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3. Under UVB-induced stress conditions, the peptide attenuated the expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine interleukin-6 (IL-6) and enhanced NRF2-associated transcriptional engagement, as evidenced by increased interaction between NRF2 and RNA polymerase II. Collectively, these findings suggest that VDR-Pep supports epidermal homeostasis through coordinated modulation of VDR/RXR signaling, calcium-mediated differentiation, barrier-related protein expression, inflammatory responses, and antioxidant-associated pathways. The results indicate that VDR-targeting peptides may represent a promising non-hormonal strategy for cosmetic formulations aimed at reinforcing skin barrier function and improving resilience to environmental stress. Future studies should focus on validating these effects in in vivo human skin models, assessing long-term safety and efficacy, and optimizing formulation stability for practical cosmetic applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030149

Authors: Nikolaos Bikiaris Nikoleta Kioleoglou Nikolaos Nikolaidis

In the present work, oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsions containing nanolignin (NL) at 0.35, 1, and 2% w/w were developed using a single multifunctional nanoadditive concept, whereby NL simultaneously acts as an antioxidant, rheology modifier, and color/sunscreen booster. Nanolignin was characterized by FTIR, DLS, and SEM, confirming its chemical structure and nanoscale particle size. The emulsions were evaluated in terms of pH and viscosity stability, rheological behavior, colorimetric CIELAB parameters, DPPH radical scavenging activity, and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). Incorporation of NL led to a slight pH decrease relative to the blank formulation, while maintaining values within the acceptable cosmetic range (pH 4–6), and yielded emulsions with excellent pH and viscosity stability over 28 days of storage. Increasing the NL concentration modified the rheological profile and viscosity, as well as the L*, a*, and b* color coordinates, enabling tunable visual appearance and texture. All formulations exhibited high antioxidant capacity; notably, the NL_1% emulsion displayed higher radical scavenging activity than the NL_2% system, underscoring a non-linear structure–property relationship. SPF values ranged between 14.09 ± 0.875 and 22.29 ± 1.719, demonstrating that nanolignin can enhance photoprotective performance. Overall, this study highlights the potential of nanolignin as a single multifunctional nanoadditive for designing stable, antioxidant, and photoprotective cosmetic O/W emulsions with adjustable rheology and color.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030148

Authors: Arielle Springer Claudia Gras Willi Moor

Background: Squalene is a key sebum lipid that plays an important role in skin barrier function, suppleness, and antioxidant protection. Age-related or disease-associated reductions in squalene levels—for example, in atopic dermatitis—reduce skin resilience and increase susceptibility to environmental stressors. However, its oxidation products can have inflammatory, comedogenic, and pro-aging effects on the skin, which is why adequate stabilization is essential when used in topical formulations. Objective: Therefore, identifying sustainable sources of stable squalene with beneficial skin-care properties is of considerable interest. Methods: This review employed an application-focused literature search and comparative analysis of established and new squalene sources, evaluating chemical composition, manufacturing processes, stability, and biological effects following topical applications based on predefined analytical criteria across peer-reviewed studies. Results: Silphium oil appears to be a promising novel source of highly concentrated, sustainable, and stable squalene with potential skin-conditioning properties at concentrations typically used in cosmetic products (2.1–12.6%) while preliminary formulation tests indicate emulsifiability even at concentrations up to 15%. It contains over 3% squalene, a fatty acid profile with over 66% PUFA, and negligible levels of oxidation byproducts (hexanal < 3 ppm) even after years of storage in various types of packaging. Although independent validation and broader comparative studies are limited, these results reveal new possibilities for the use of previously underutilized plant sources in skin care applications.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030147

Authors: Nonhlanhla Mhlongo S’busiso Nkosi Nokukhanya Thembane Julian Mthombeni

Indigenous clays are widely used for facial skincare in South Africa, yet their suitability for cosmetic incorporation remains poorly characterised, particularly with respect to elemental safety. This study assessed two traditionally applied clays for acne-prone skin (Umcako and Ibomvu) using a multi-analytical workflow encompassing colorimetry, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), pH measurement, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) estimation, X-ray fluorescence (XRF), and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) of clay leachates. XRD showed both materials to be kaolinite-dominated, with higher kaolinite content in Umcako (92.5 wt%) than in Ibomvu (77.3 wt%); SEM revealed characteristic overlapping pseudo-hexagonal platelets, and FT-IR did not indicate prominent organic functional groups under the conditions tested. The clays were mildly acidic (pH 4.23–4.48), aligning with physiological skin pH, but exhibited low photoprotective performance when assessed alone (SPF ≈ 2.5–2.6). Elemental screening identified nutritionally relevant trace minerals but also detected regulated or sensitising metals, with Ibomvu showing elevated bulk Pb (53 ± 12 ppm), Ni (126 ± 71 ppm) and Zn (72 ± 26 ppm), while Umcako contained elevated bulk Cr (460 ± 140 ppm) and Pb (18 ± 6 ppm). Overall, although Umcako and Ibomvu display physicochemical properties compatible with clay-based cosmetic products, their heavy metal burden, together with the potential for dermal exposure highlighted by leachate analysis, indicates that purification, batch-to-batch monitoring and regulatory risk assessment are essential before safe cosmetic use.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030146

Authors: Rungsima Wanitphakdeedecha Noldtawat Viriyaskultorn Stephanie De Leon Thrit Hutachoke Thanyaporn Leesanguankul Panyapat Buranaporn Teerapat Wannawittayapa

Background: A novel day–night facial serum regimen combining antioxidants, hydration-enhancing agents, and bioactive compounds has been developed to address skin aging. Objective: The aim is to explore changes in skin aging parameters and assess the safety and tolerability of a day-and-night facial serum combination. Methods: In this single-arm, non-randomized, prospective, open-label study, 30 participants aged 35–55 years applied a day facial serum (DFS) and a night facial serum (NFS) for 8 weeks. Objective assessments included skin texture and depression (Antera 3D®), elasticity and firmness (Cutometer®), hydration (Corneometer®), TEWL (Tewameter®), melanin index (Mexameter®), and brightness (Colorimeter®). Evaluations were performed at baseline, at 1 month and 2 months after treatment start, and at 1 month post-treatment. Results: Thirty participants (Fitzpatrick III–IV) completed the study. Significant improvements in skin texture (p = 0.002) and reduction in skin depression (−22.7%, p < 0.001) were observed after 2 months. Skin firmness increased significantly at 1 month (p < 0.001) and remained elevated post-treatment (p = 0.008). The melanin index decreased at 1 month (p = 0.048), while hydration declined after discontinuation (p = 0.016). TEWL showed a significant overall time effect; however, no Bonferroni-adjusted pairwise comparison versus baseline was significant. No significant changes were observed in elasticity or brightness. Mild transient burning was the most common adverse event. Other reported adverse events included acne, miliaria rubra, oiliness, and mild itching; all were non-serious and did not result in treatment discontinuation. Conclusions: The combined DFS and NFS regimen was well tolerated and was associated with favorable changes in skin texture and firmness. Transient local reactions, particularly mild burning sensation, were commonly reported but did not result in treatment discontinuation. Further controlled studies are warranted to confirm these observations.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030145

Authors: Mireya Suárez-Pérez Octavio Dublán-García Ana Gabriela Morachis-Valdez Karinne Saucedo-Vence Manuel Reinhart Kirchmayr Francisco Antonio López-Medina Guadalupe López-García Ángel Santillán-Álvarez Gerardo Heredia-García Daniel Díaz-Bandera Roxana Valdés-Ramos

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit involving follicular hyperkeratinization, altered sebum production, Cutibacterium acnes proliferation, microbiome imbalance, and immune activation. Although antibiotics, retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and keratolytic agents remain central to clinical management, their long-term use may be limited by irritation, recurrence, adherence issues, and increasing antimicrobial resistance. This narrative review critically evaluates the dermatological relevance of Melaleuca alternifolia tea tree essential oil (TTEO), Mentha piperita peppermint essential oil (PPEO), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), as well as their incorporation into biopolymeric delivery systems for acne-oriented topical applications. Following SANRA principles, evidence from clinical, preclinical, ex vivo, and in vitro studies was synthesized, with emphasis on antimicrobial activity, inflammatory modulation, keratolytic and barrier-supportive effects, formulation stability, and release behavior. TTEO shows the strongest clinical support among the reviewed natural bioactives, including reductions in lesion counts and acne severity when applied as conventional or nanoemulsion-based formulations. PPEO is mainly supported by experimental evidence, particularly antimicrobial activity against acne-associated microorganisms, anti-inflammatory potential, and menthol-related neurocutaneous effects, whereas acne-specific clinical validation remains limited. PHAs, particularly gluconolactone, are better supported for barrier improvement, hydration, tolerability, and seboregulation than for direct acne lesion reduction. Hydrogels, electrospun nanofibers, polymeric films, nanoencapsulation systems, and controlled-release platforms may improve local retention, protect volatile or irritation-prone compounds, and modulate active release at the skin surface. However, most biopolymeric platforms still rely on early-stage or indirect dermatological evidence. Overall, biopolymeric delivery systems offer a rational formulation strategy to improve the stability, tolerability, and localized action of selected acne-relevant bioactives, but their clinical translation requires standardized composition, reproducible fabrication, skin-relevant release assays, safety assessment, and controlled human studies.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030144

Authors: Michelle Maria Gonçalves Barão de Aguiar Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto Maria Valéria Robles Velasco André Rolim Baby

Brazil is characterized by high levels of solar exposure, which may compromise skin health due to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), particularly among individuals with darker skin tones who often underuse photoprotective measures. Although darker skin has been hypothesized to exhibit greater resistance to UVR, robust evidence remains limited. This study aimed to investigate the susceptibility of the stratum corneum (SC) of Black individuals to UV-induced lipid peroxidation using the HPLC–TBARS–EVSC protocol. SC samples were collected from the forearms of nine participants by tape stripping and subsequently exposed to an artificial UV radiation source. Lipid peroxidation was quantified through the detection of the malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid (MDA-TBA2) adduct using high-performance liquid chromatography. Following UV exposure, a statistically significant increase in lipid peroxidation was observed, corresponding to an approximate 297% elevation in MDA-TBA2 levels (p < 0.05). These findings demonstrate that the SC of Black skin is susceptible to UV-induced oxidative damage under the tested conditions. The results support the use of phototype-independent biochemical markers to assess photodamage and reinforce the need for effective photoprotection strategies in individuals with darker skin tones.

Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics13030143

Authors: Ralf Jäger Martin Purpura Sebastian T. Balcombe Daniel Molina Lucía Fernández David González Alejandro Pérez-Fernández

Polyphenol-rich botanical extracts have emerged as promising nutricosmetic interventions against signs of skin aging. Fruit polyphenols improve skin appearance, while biotin plays a recognized role in keratin synthesis and hair follicle metabolism, yet their combined effects have not been evaluated. This study assessed the effects of a red- and blackcurrant polyphenol with biotin supplement (RiboBeauty®) in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Fifty-four women were randomized, and fifty-two were eligible for the efficacy analyses (Placebo, n = 27; Supplement, n = 25). Over 12 weeks, wrinkle morphology and skin roughness were quantified by 3D imaging and hair shedding by a combing test. For skin roughness, mean local peak-to-peak amplitude (Stm) showed significant within-group reductions in the supplement group at D56 (−4.897%; p = 0.0489) and D84 (−6.558%; p = 0.0491), without significant between-group differences. Hair shedding was significantly lower in the Supplement group versus Placebo at D28 (−30.90%; p = 0.0203) and D56 (−41.58%; p = 0.0158), although the treatment × time interaction was not significant. The crow’s feet wrinkle area showed numerically (but non-statistically significant) lower values in the supplement group than in the placebo group at all post-baseline visits. Overall, these findings indicate a favorable efficacy signal, while the limited demonstration of statistically significant placebo superiority across the main skin outcomes warrants cautious interpretation.