Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020045
Authors: Kunlathida Luangpraditkun Preeyanuch Pimjuk Preeyawass Phimnuan Wisanee Wisanwattana Chothip Wisespongpand Neti Waranuch Jarupa Viyoch
Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC50 value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020044
Authors: Maxim E. Darvin Andrew Salazar Johannes Schleusener Jürgen Lademann Jörg von Hagen
The peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) ligands modulate a variety of skin functions but are rarely used in cosmetics. The aim of this double-blind, placebo-controlled, in vivo study was to determine the effect of a topically applied 0.1% PPAR ligand on the composition and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC). By comparing verum and placebo groups post-treatment, we demonstrate (via lipidomic analysis of tape strips) an unstatistically significant trend toward an increase in long-chain triacylglycerols (C50–C56) and medium- and long-chain ceramides (C42–C50) at the superficial SC. By comparing treated and untreated skin using confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we found that the changes in lipid composition in the verum group led to a significant increase in the number of trans conformers and orthorhombic organisation of lipids at the exemplary SC depth. An increase in unfolded states in the secondary and tertiary keratin structures results in an increased ability to bind water. The concentrations of tightly and strongly bound water increase, while weakly bound and unbound water decrease in the entire SC, indicating a transformation of water mobility to a state of increased hydrogen bonding. Thus, the topical PPAR ligands improve the water-holding capacity and the barrier function of the SC.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020043
Authors: Hisae Aoshima Ruka Mizuno Yuho Iwatsu Shiori Onishi Sayuri Hyodo Rinta Ibuki Hirokazu Kawagishi Yasukazu Saitoh
A fairy chemical, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, has exhibited broad effects on skin barrier function, leading to its launch as a cosmetic ingredient. A clinical trial on a lotion containing 0.1% 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine demonstrated the ability of this chemical to increase skin lightness based on the analysis of L* values. In the present study, to elucidate the mechanism underlying the increase in skin lightness, we aimed to investigate the effect of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine on murine melanoma cell lines, focusing on its influence on tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Our findings revealed that the addition of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine inhibited tyrosinase activity by 13% compared with the untreated control. Similarly, melanin production was suppressed by 36% compared with the control. These results strongly suggest that the inhibition of tyrosinase effectively suppressed melanin production. Thus, 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine acts by inhibiting tyrosinase and melanin production to promote skin lightening. This study provides novel insights into the skin-lightening mechanism of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine, demonstrating its ability to inhibit melanin production through the suppression of pro-inflammatory factors, thereby highlighting its potential as an effective cosmetic ingredient for lightening skin tone.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020042
Authors: Gi-Woong Hong Hyewon Hu Soo-Yeon Park Jovian Wan Kyu-Ho Yi
Thread-lifting traditionally addressed aging-related skin laxity by leveraging precise thread placement and traction. However, recent advancements, notably cog threads, expanded its application to younger patients seeking facial contour refinement. These newer threads effectively lift sagging areas and refine facial contours, broadening the procedure’s appeal. Challenges arise in selecting threads due to variable physician preferences and patient needs. Clear indications for thread efficacy are vital for credibility and tailored selection. Thread choice depends on tissue laxity, necessitating lighter threads for minimal laxity and stronger ones for significant sagging. However, no single thread universally suits all cases. Combining different threads is favored for optimal outcomes and minimizing side effects. Excessive traction post-procedure may lead to prolonged discomfort and skin irregularities. Post-procedural tension adjustments through massage remain debated, potentially conflicting with minimally invasive principles. Understanding thread characteristics guides tailored selection, considering patient conditions and procedural goals. This comprehensive understanding extends beyond specific products, aiming for optimal outcomes in thread-lifting procedures. Key factors influencing outcomes encompass thread materials, thickness, cog shapes, insertion depth, lifting vectors, and absorbable thread expiration dates.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020041
Authors: Nicola d’Avanzo Antonia Mancuso Rosario Mare Antonio Silletta Samantha Maurotti Ortensia Ilaria Parisi Maria Chiara Cristiano Donatella Paolino
Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020040
Authors: Elena Dănilă Durmuș Alpaslan Kaya Valentina Anuța Lăcrămioara Popa Alina Elena Coman Ciprian Chelaru Rodica Roxana Constantinescu Cristina Dinu-Pîrvu Mădălina Georgiana Albu Kaya Mihaela Violeta Ghica
Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation acting on the dermis and stimulating the collagen production is very important for the hydration of the skin. The association of collagen with other ingredients can have a positive effect on increasing the natural production of collagen in the skin. An example of such an ingredient is niacinamide, which, having a recognized nutritional value, has been quite recently studied. Considering these aspects, this study focused on developing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, based on natural ingredients (vegetable oils, floral waters, and essential oils) and hydrolyzed collagen and niacinamide as active ingredients, and on evaluating the stability, pH, optical, superficial, rheological and textural properties, as well as microbiological tests of the emulsions, in order to investigate their potential as a cosmeceutical product. All the obtained emulsions proved to be stable at variable temperatures and had a pH value compatible with natural pH of the skin, allowing their safe application. Over goniometric analysis, a partial wetting and a hydrophilic character of the emulsions were emphasized. Following the rheological analyses, all dermatocosmetic emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and a thixotropic character, these properties being very important for their production process and their application on the skin surface to generate an optimal therapeutic effect. The textural characteristics recorded for all emulsions indicated adequate spreadability at the application site. All tested samples respected the Pharmacopoeia limits of microbiological contamination. All prepared emulsions have good stability, are safe for the skin and have appropriate physicochemical and microbiological characteristics; therefore, they can be used as a cosmeceutical product.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020039
Authors: Fabien Havas Shlomo Krispin Moshe Cohen Joan Attia-Vigneau
Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020038
Authors: K. J. Senthil Kumar M. Gokila Vani Muthusamy Chinnasamy Wan-Teng Lin Sheng-Yang Wang
The inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin essential oil (patchouli essential oil, PEO) and its primary bioactive compound, patchouli alcohol (PA), on tyrosinase and melanin were investigated in vitro and ex vivo. Treatment with PEO and PA significantly, as well as dose-dependently, reduced forskolin (FRK)-induced melanin biosynthesis, cellular tyrosinase activity, and tyrosinase (TYR) protein expression. However, the transcriptional levels of TYR and tyrosinase-related proteins (TRP-1 and TRP-2) remained unaffected. These results suggest that PEO and PA may directly interrupt tyrosinase enzyme activity, leading to a reduction in melanin biosynthesis. Further experiments supported this notion, revealing that both PEO and PA significantly and dose-dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity in both the monophenolase and diphenolase phases. Additionally, an in silico molecular docking analysis was performed, utilizing a homology model of human tyrosinase. In conclusion, these findings strongly suggest that patchouli essential oil and its primary bioactive component, patchouli alcohol, hold promise as potential treatments for hyperpigmentary skin conditions and in the development of cosmetic products designed to lighten the skin.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020037
Authors: Zorica Janjetovic Andrzej T. Slominski
Vitamin D is a natural photoproduct that has many beneficial effects on different organs, including skin. Active forms of vitamin D and its derivatives exert biological effects on skin cells, thus maintaining skin homeostasis. In keratinocytes, they inhibit proliferation and stimulate differentiation, have anti-inflammatory properties, act as antioxidants, inhibit DNA damage and stimulate DNA repair after ultraviolet (UV) exposure. In melanocytes, they also inhibit cell proliferation, inhibit apoptosis and act as antioxidants. In fibroblasts, they inhibit cell proliferation, affect fibrotic processes and collagen production, and promote wound healing and regeneration. On the other hand, skin cells have the ability to activate vitamin D directly. These activities, along with the projected topical application of vitamin D derivatives, are promising for skin care and photo protection and can be used in the prevention or possible reversal of skin aging.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020036
Authors: Leila Falcao Rachida Nachat-Kappes Edith Filaire
Knowing that biomolecules, such as β-amyrin and α-amyrin, have some pharmacological effects, the aim of this study was directed towards exploring the protective effect of Tomato Peel and Seed Extract (TPSE) for its soothing function but also for its capacity to modulate the adrenal axis, which is involved in stress response. Ex vivo tests were carried out on skin explants to evaluate the effectiveness of TPSE formulated at 0.5% on Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP) and IL-10 release, Kappa Opioid Receptor (KOR), and Caspase 14 expression. An in vivo study combined a clinical evaluation of skin homogeneity and psychological parameters as well as an analysis of salivary cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone concentrations. All measurements were carried out at the beginning and after 28 days of applying a TPSE face cream. TPSE regulated not only the release of CGRP, IL-10, and the expression of Caspase 14, reflecting anti-neurogenic and anti-inflammatory properties, but also modulated KORs. Twenty-eight days of TPSE application induced a significant decrease in intensity and extent erythrosis, a lower output of salivary cortisol, and a significant increase in pleasant emotions when compared to placebo. These results provide encouragement to continue exploring the impact of cosmetic ingredients on psychophysiological parameters to improve skin health and well-being.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020035
Authors: Seong Hyun Kim Ji-Eun Bae Na Yeon Park Joon Bum Kim Yong Hwan Kim So Hyun Kim Gyeong Seok Oh Hee Won Wang Jeong Ho Chang Dong-Hyung Cho
A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving autophagosomes and lysosomes, plays a vital role in cellular constituent degradation. In this study, the role of autophagy in melanosomal degradation was explored, employing a cell-based screening system designed to unveil key pathway regulators. We identified specific dipeptidyl peptidase-4 inhibitors, such as teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate, as novel agents inducing melanophagy through a comprehensive screening of a ubiquitination-related chemical library. We found that treatment with teneligliptin hydrobromide or retagliptin phosphate not only diminishes melanin content elevated by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) but also triggers autophagy activation within B16F1 cells. In addition, the targeted inhibition of unc-51-like kinase (ULK1) significantly attenuated both the anti-pigmentation effects and autophagy induced by teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate in α-MSH-treated cells. Collectively, our data demonstrate a new frontier in understanding melanosomal degradation, identifying teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate as promising inducers of melanophagy via autophagy activation. This study contributes essential insights into cellular degradation mechanisms and offers potential therapeutic avenues in the regulation of pigmentation.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020034
Authors: Nicole Vassallo Paul Refalo
The global packaging industry has been growing significantly, resulting in an increase in waste and emissions. Social responsibilities, regulations and targets are shifting companies’ priorities to various sustainable practices. This study comprised a life cycle assessment (LCA) to quantify and compare key initiatives influencing the sustainability of plastic cosmetic packaging. The life cycle environmental effects of dematerialisation, recycled content, energy-saving initiatives and renewable energy powering the manufacturing processes, and the end-of-life (EoL) recycling rates of various scenarios, were evaluated. Moreover, a variety of fossil-based and bio-based polymers, such as acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), wood–polymer composite (WPC) and polylactic acid (PLA), were considered. The study determined that dematerialisation and recycled content had the most beneficial impacts on packaging sustainability. When 100% recycled materials were used, an overall impact reduction of 42–60% was noted for all the materials considered. Using 100% renewable energy and applying measures to reduce the energy consumption in the manufacturing stage by 50% reduced the total impact by approximately 9–17% and 7–13%, respectively. Furthermore, it was concluded that PP had the lowest environmental impacts in the majority of the case scenarios considered, by an average of 46%.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020033
Authors: Iva Drejslarová Tomáš Ječmen Petr Hodek
Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products, which can disrupt the endocrine system by interfering with steroidogenic CYPs. CYP19, also known as aromatase, is a crucial enzyme for testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol, which is the final step in estrogen biosynthesis. Endocrine disruptors have the potential to inhibit CYP19 activity, leading to an imbalance in estrogen levels in the body. This imbalance can impair reproduction and cause osteoporosis, atherosclerosis, dementia, and some types of cancer. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of commercially available perfumes on testosterone aromatization to 17β-estradiol. For this purpose, we used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV detection and HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) to examine CYP19 activity with and without perfume. The results showed that all perfumes tested (in a 300-fold dilution) had an inhibitory effect on this enzyme-catalyzed reaction, particularly the Montale® fragrance, ‘Intense Roses Musk’, which decreased 17β-estradiol production by 88% in comparison with the control. Upon exposure to UV light, the inhibitory effect of this perfume did not decrease. But exposure to UV light significantly increased the inhibitory capacity of another perfume with a weak baseline inhibitory effect. To ascertain whether this inhibition was caused by CYP19 interactions with perfumes, we measured the catalytic activity of NADPH:cytochrome P450 oxidoreductase (CYPOR), the CYP reaction partner, with one selected perfume, ‘Intense Roses Musk’ by Montale®, and found no significant CYPOR inhibition. Accordingly, the decrease in testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol caused by this perfume derives solely from CYP19. Combined, our findings highlight the importance of testing perfumes rather than single ingredients to determine their potential for adverse effects and to ensure consumer safety because their mixtures can interfere with a key enzyme of estrogen biosynthesis.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020032
Authors: Suhyeon Park Neha Kaushik Geunjeong Lee Youngju Sohn Hyehyun Hong Krishna K. Shrestha Ren-Bo An Young Kum Park Ihseop Chang June-Hyun Kim
Although hair loss plays a vital physiological function in present society, their impact on shaping self-esteem is undeniable. Even though there are numerous synthetic drugs available, these days, there are issues with safety, efficiency, and unclear time settings for required outcomes with the current synthetic drug remedies available; therefore, there is growing attention to discovering alternative methods to fight hair loss, primarily through plant-derived formulations. While earlier reports mostly focused on screening compounds or plant extracts affecting 5α-reductase, our research takes a unique direction. We employed a biochemical and molecular biological approach by delving into the complicated biosynthetic pathways involving 17β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (17β-HSD) and 3β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase (3β-HSD) in producing testosterone derived from cholesterol. This process conceded requiring experimental results, posing insights into the control of the testosterone/dihydrotestosterone (DHT) production pathway. Our study confirms a discovery platform for finding potential candidates as hair loss inhibitors, highlighting exploring various biochemical mechanisms involving 17β-HSD and 3β-HSD in combination with medicinal plant extracts.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11020031
Authors: Greta Ferruggia Martina Contino Massimo Zimbone Maria Violetta Brundo
In the original publication [...]
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010030
Authors: Cloé Boira Emilie Chapuis Amandine Scandolera Romain Reynaud
Background: Skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) and air pollution, and recent works have demonstrated that these factors have additive effects in the disturbance of skin homeostasis. Nuclear-factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) appear to be appropriate targets in the management of combined environmental stressors. The protective effects of silymarin (SM), an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory complex of flavonoids, were evaluated. Methods: Reactive oxygen species (ROS) and interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1a) were quantified in UV+urban-dust-stressed reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) treated with SM. A gene expression study was conducted on targets related to AHR and Nrf2. SM agonistic activity on cannabinoid receptor type 2 (CB2R) was evaluated on mast cells. The clinical study quantified the performance of SM and cannabidiol (CBD) in skin exposed to solar radiation and air pollution. Results: SM decreased morphological alterations, ROS, and IL-1a in UV+urban-dust-stressed RHE. AHR- and Nrf2-related genes were upregulated, which control the antioxidant effector and barrier function. Interleukin 8 gene expression was decreased. The clinical study confirmed SM improved the homogeneity and perceived well-being of urban skins exposed to UV, outperforming CBD. SM activated CB2R and the release of β-endorphin from mast cells. Conclusions: SM provides protection of skin from oxidative stress and inflammation caused by two major factors of exposome and appears mediated by AHR-Nrf2. SM activation of CB2R is opening a new understanding of SM’s anti-inflammatory properties.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010029
Authors: Suwaporn Chookiat Tinnakorn Theansungnoen Kanokwan Kiattisin Aekkhaluck Intharuksa
Mucuna pruriens is a medicinal plant whose seeds have various types of pharmacological activities and are used in many traditional medicines. The aim of this study was to evaluate the phytochemicals as well as the anti-aging, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of seed extracts of M. pruriens var. pruriens and M. pruriens var. utilis. In addition, the best extract was selected for the development of nanoemulsions. M. pruriens var. utilis had the highest total phenolic and total flavonoid contents. It had good antioxidant activity (the IC50 of DPPH was 4.87 µg/mL, the FRAP value was 1.63 mg of FeSO4/mg of extract, and the percentage of lipid peroxidation was 80.19%) and anti-aging activity (the percentages of inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase were 26.41%, 51.16%, and 22.78%, respectively). The occlusive factor was 46.12 ± 1.72. Therefore, M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract was selected for the preparation of nanoemulsions. The results showed that the size, PDI, and zeta potential of nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract at day 30 did not significantly differ from those at day 0. In addition, the %EE was 63.46%. A study of skin permeation showed that the retention in the membrane after six hours of skin permeation study was 44.19%. Therefore, nanoemulsions containing M. pruriens var. utilis seed extract have good potential for further use in cosmetic applications.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010028
Authors: Anastasiya S. Borisenko Valentin I. Sharobaro Alexey E. Avdeev Nigora S. Burkhonova Anastasiya O. Fisun
The pursuit of youth and attractiveness is a fundamental desire in contemporary society. For many individuals, the appearance of visible signs of aging, such as skin laxity, gravitational changes in facial and neck soft tissues, and loss of harmonious proportions, can be psychologically distressing. The choice of effective methods for addressing these changes depends on their specific characteristics, the patient’s anatomical features, and the type of facial aging. The introduction of 3D imaging to determine the hyoid bone level, the volume of soft tissue structures in the cervico-mental area, ptosis of subplatysmal structures, and the volume of submandibular glands, in addition to ultrasound study of the submental projection at the preoperative stage, are key for making the best decisions regarding preoperative planning. This case report aims to illustrate how modern imaging techniques are a fundamental part of the preoperative assessment of the mid and lower third of the face to ensure the most favorable aesthetic outcomes for each patient.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010027
Authors: Lyvia Lopes Miranda Mariáurea Matias Sarandy Luciana Schulthais Altoé Daniel Silva Sena Bastos Fabiana Cristina Silveira Alves Melo Rômulo Dias Novaes Debora Araújo Esposito Reggiani Vilela Gonçalves
Burns account for more than 265,000 deaths per year in the world, mainly associated with infections. Therefore, the shorter the healing time, the better the prognosis. Based on this, the objective of the present study was to investigate the effect of an ointment based on Brassica oleracea var. capitata extract in the third-degree healing process. Twenty-five male Wistar rats (335 ± 16 g, three months of life) were individualized in cages with food and water ad libitum. After anesthesia, two circular third-degree burn wounds (12 mm in diameter) were made on the animals, which were randomly separated into five treatments (n = 5/group), i.e., SAL: saline solution 0.9%; OV: ointment vehicle; SS: silver sulfadiazine 1%; PB1: 10% B. oleracea extract; and PB2: 20% B. oleracea extract. The animals were treated with the ointment daily for eight days. Every four days, the area and the wound contraction index were evaluated. Tissue samples were taken for histopathological analysis (cellularity, blood vessels, and extracellular matrix components) and analysis of oxidative/nitrosative status (antioxidant enzymes, lipid, and protein oxidation markers, as well as nitric oxide (NO) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)). The ointment based on B. oleracea var. capitata at 10 and 20% concentrations increased the number of cells, blood vessels, and fibrous components of the extracellular matrix and the activity of antioxidant enzymes, promoting a fast and efficient cutaneous repair in third-degree burn wounds.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010026
Authors: Weicheng Fei Masafumi Noda Narandalai Danshiitsoodol Masanori Sugiyama
We previously found that fermented extract of Dendrobium officinale using Lactobacillus plantarum GT-17F has a stronger antioxidant effect, especially in free radical scavenging. The result provided a basis for further studies to evaluate the effectiveness of fermented D. officinale in preventing UV-mediated damage and photoaging in humans. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to assess the anti-aging efficacy of D. officinale fermented with GT-17F strain in a clinical trial, which was conducted as a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized parallel-group comparative study with 99 volunteers with visible wrinkles. During the study, subjects were instructed to apply one pump of each essence, which contains fermented, unfermented, or no D. officinale extract, evenly to their face, both in the morning and evening, following their cleansing routine. At 28 days post-treatment, compared to baseline, subjects in the fermented extract group demonstrated significant improvements in stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, wrinkle area and ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio. In contrast, the unfermented extract group showed a significant difference only in improving erythema index levels in the skin. This comprehensive study has rigorously investigated the anti-aging effects of D. officinale and its fermented version on human skin, highlighting a notable contribution to dermatological research.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010025
Authors: Mario Puviani Klaus Eisendle
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some side effects of BPO, such as skin irritation and erythema. A film-forming cream product containing BPO 4% and Niac 4%, vehiculated in a mixture of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and perfluoropolyether (PFPE) has been recently developed (B-N cream). A 28-day, assessor-blinded pilot trial was conducted to evaluate the clinical efficacy, skin tolerability, sebum production, skin redness, and skin microbiome modulation of B-N cream in subjects with mild to moderate acne of the face. Twenty-two adult men and women with mild-to-moderate acne of the face participated in this trial, after their written informed consent. B-N cream was applied once daily in the evening. The use of B-N cream was associated with a statistically significant decrease in acne lesions after treatment in comparison with baseline (non-inflammatory lesions: −40%; inflammatory lesions: −43% and total lesions: −41%). The use of the cream was not associated with a skin barrier function alteration. The skin redness score (−11%) and the sebum production (−42%) were significantly reduced after treatment. The use of B-N cream determined a reduction in the relative abundance of the Actinobacteria phylum (Corynebacterium and Propionibacterium, from 56% to 47%) and a significant increase in the abundance of Bacteroidetes phylum (from 3% to 5.2%). In addition, the product was well tolerated. In conclusion, this film-forming, medical device cream was effective in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne, reducing acne lesions and sebum production without altering skin barrier function, offering good skin tolerability. Furthermore, this product exerts positive skin microbiome modulation effects.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010024
Authors: Phaijit Sritananuwat Tipada Samseethong Kusuma Jitsaeng Sureewan Duangjit Praneet Opanasopit Worranan Rangsimawong
Boesenbergia rotunda has been used as an antiobesity agent by suppressing adipogenesis. This study aimed to investigate the biological activity of B. rotunda on preadipocyte cells and to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of using B. rotunda extract in a capsaicin-loaded body-firming formulation. The antiadipogenesis of B. rotunda ethanolic extract was evaluated in 3T3-L1 preadipocyte cells. After the application of the B. rotunda extract-loaded body-firming formulation on the skin of volunteers for 28 d, thigh circumference, melanin index, and skin erythema were investigated. The results showed that the ethanolic extract of B. rotunda was not toxic toward 3T3-L1 cells at concentrations lower than 20 µg/mL, with antiadipogenesis of the B. rotunda extract occurring at a concentration of 1 µg/mL. The B. rotunda extract containing panduratin A was mixed with capsaicin body-firming products and successfully permeated into and through the skin. Applying this formulation to the thighs of the volunteers two times a day for 21 days led to a significant reduction in thigh circumference and melanin index. A slight elevation in skin erythema was observed, but there was no significant increase in redness or pain. In conclusion, the B. rotunda extract contained bioactive compounds that inhibited antiadipogenesis. The formulations containing B. rotunda extract and capsaicin showed potential as effective body-firming products.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010023
Authors: Soraya Ratnawulan Mita Patihul Husni Norisca Aliza Putriana Rani Maharani Ryan Proxy Hendrawan Dian Anggraeni Dewi
Catechins are a type of flavonoid known for their beneficial functions as antioxidants and antibacterials. Recent research indicates the antioxidant potential of catechins on the skin. Catechin and epigallocatechin are reported to have significant potential in preventing ageing. Epigallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin gallate, and epigallocatechin can inhibit hyperpigmentation processes. Additionally, catechins exhibit potential in UV protection and inflammation inhibition in acne. Consequently, catechins are now being used in the cosmetics industry, with formulations containing catechins as the active ingredient developed to produce various products such as soap, sunscreen, creams, etc. Herein, this paper reviews the antioxidant potential of catechins for use in cosmetic formulations and the current status of clinical trials of catechins in cosmetics.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010022
Authors: Inês Ferreira Carla M. Lopes Maria Helena Amaral
Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder that impacts the quality of life for millions of people around the world. The multifactorial nature of this disorder requires innovative and effective treatment strategies. Over time, there has been a growing interest regarding the use of natural topical therapies, with cannabinoids emerging as a promising group of compounds for investigation. In the context of acne treatment, cannabinoids are of particular interest due to their anti-acne properties, namely, lipostatic, anti-inflammatory, antiproliferative, and antimicrobial activities. Among these bioactive compounds, cannabidiol stands out as a notable derivative, exhibiting a promising spectrum of therapeutic actions. Pre-clinical and clinical studies have proven its ability to modulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and inhibit bacterial proliferation—all of which are critical components in the pathogenesis of this dermatosis. This review provides a comprehensive overview of cannabinoids’ potential as a novel and holistic approach to acne vulgaris treatment and summarizes recent developments in this area.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010021
Authors: Angreni Ayuhastuti Insan Syah Sandra Megantara Anis Chaerunisaa
Kojic acid (KA) has emerged as a prominent tyrosinase inhibitor with considerable potential in cosmetic applications; however, its susceptibility to instability during storage poses a challenge to its widespread use. This review explores the advancements in addressing this limitation through the development of various KA derivatives, focusing on the modification of the C-7 hydroxyl group. Strategies such as esterification, hydroxy-phenyl ether formation, glycosylation, and incorporation into amino acid or tripeptide derivatives have been employed to enhance stability and efficacy. Among these derivatives, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate (KDP), a palmitic ester derivative of KA, stands out for its notable improvements in stability, permeability, and low toxicity. Recent developments indicate a growing utilization of KDP in cosmetic formulations, with over 132 available products on the market, encompassing various formulations. Formulations based on nanotechnology, which incorporate KDP, have been provided, including nanosomes, nanocreams, multiple emulsions, liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), ethosomes, and nanoemulsions. Additionally, three patents and seven advanced system deliveries of KDP further underscore its significance. Despite its increasing prevalence, the literature on KDP remains limited. This review aims to bridge this gap by providing insights into the synthesis process, physicochemical properties, pharmaceutical preparation, diverse applications of KDP in cosmetic products, and recent nanotechnology formulations of KDP. This review paper seeks to explore the recent developments in the use of KDP in cosmetics. The goal is to enhance stability, permeability, and reduce the toxicity of KA, with the intention of promoting future research in this promising sector.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010020
Authors: Pierfrancesco Morganti Gianluca Morganti Hong-Duo Chen Maria-Beatrice Coltelli Alessandro Gagliardini
The present review was conducted to investigate the possibilities in realizing novel nanostructured tissues containing functional molecules that can be commercialized as solid products (without using emulsifiers and preservatives) for cosmeceutical and nutraceutical applications. After considering the principal concepts regarding skin and mucous features and physiologies, the possibilities in using bio-based, biodegradable and biocompatible materials was explored by investigating the correlations between their structures and morphologies with respect to the characteristics of the skin extracellular matrix (ECM). Regarding the new smart type of biodegradable tissues, their possible composition was reviewed in relation to the skin aging process and to the current contest for novel, innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals that consider the “beauty from within” concept. The barriers to the development of these new tissues were mainly identified due the necessity in defining the claim regarding green products. Moreover, the market growth data regarding these novel products were highlighted to support the idea that the diffusion of smart tissue-based cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals is an opportunity for new sustainable industrial chains in the development of bioeconomies.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010019
Authors: Dusadee Charnvanich Kamonwan Singpanna Vipaporn Panapisal
Gamma−aminobutyric acid (GABA) presents several potential skin benefits, but its water−soluble nature poses challenges for effectively penetrating the skin to produce its effects. This research aimed to improve GABA’s skin penetration and availability by employing a nanoemulsion formulation, both with and without the aid of the penetration enhancer 1,8−cineole. Using a high−pressure homogenizer, an oil−in−water nanoemulsion was created, and its size and distribution were analyzed. The stability of these nanoemulsions was tested under various conditions, revealing their resilience over six months, even at elevated temperatures of 40 °C. In vitro tests on pig skin showed that GABA−loaded nanoemulsions, particularly those without the enhancer, demonstrated a nearly 2.89−fold increase in skin permeation compared to the solution form. Moreover, the addition of the enhancer amplified this effect, resulting in over a 3.37−fold increase in skin permeation compared to the solution. These results emphasize the potential of nanoemulsion formulations as effective tools for enhancing GABA’s skin permeation and availability, potentially expanding its use in dermatological applications. Further exploration and research are necessary to fully exploit GABA’s capabilities in supporting skin health and wellness.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010018
Authors: Naveen Ashok Chand Sanjukta Duarah Blaine Ah Yuk-Winters Dhevesh Fomra
Nanofiber-based materials, due to their unique properties, are of remarkable interest across multiple fields of applications, including cosmetics. Collagen, a primary structural protein in human skin, is well-regarded for its critical role in maintaining skin health, elasticity, and enhancing skin regeneration. This study reports the characterization, safety, and efficacy evaluation of DermaLayr™, a novel collagen-based nanofiber platform, for skincare application. The collagen nanofibers were developed using a sonic electrospinning technique, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analyses indicated that the nanofibers were uniform with average fiber diameters ranging from 250 to 300 nm. The skin permeation studies on EpiDerm™ indicated that applying the test products resulted in around 5–25% higher collagen permeation into the epidermis, and 16–20% higher collagen permeation into the dermis when compared to the non-treated sample. Additionally, the safety of the developed nanofibers was assessed in vitro and in vivo and both the studies indicated their non-toxic and non-irritant properties. Moreover, clinical trials on human subjects further substantiated the clinical efficacy of DermaLayr™ by demonstrating significant improvement in several skin parameters such as hydration, elasticity, and overall skin health. In summary, the findings of this study emphasize the huge potential of DermaLayr™ nanofiber products for their safe application in cosmetics and skin therapeutics.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010017
Authors: Leslie Boudesocque-Delaye Iron Mike Ardeza Alexis Verger Roxane Grard Isabelle Théry-Koné Xavier Perse Emilie Munnier
The escalating consumer demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients poses distinct challenges, particularly concerning their stability within the final formulation. Although natural resources offer a pool of antioxidant molecules with diverse structures and polarities, achieving stabilization combined with a comprehensive antioxidant profile often proves incompatible with practical preformulation considerations. Notably, Calendula, which is rich in both polar (glycosylated flavonoids) and nonpolar (carotenoids) antioxidants, is a standout candidate. Nevertheless, the market lacks an ingredient embodying this diversity, primarily due to the limited polarity range of available usable solvents. Natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) emerge as a promising solution. This study explores NaDES technology with the goal of developing a unique Calendula extract enriched in both polarities of antioxidants, a composition that is unattainable with traditional solvents. A screening of 12 NaDESs with varying polarities highlighted a NaDES based on betaine and glycerol as particularly effective, outperforming ethanol. Leveraging response surface methodology, an optimal mechanical stirring procedure for extraction was identified. The resulting extract showed a total flavonoid content of 45.42 ± 0.85 mg eq rutin/g of biomass and a total carotenoid content of 383.54 ± 4.73 µg/g biomass. It was then incorporated into a sustainable cream (1% and 10%wt) using an innovative mixing technology. The resulting creams demonstrated stability over 90 days, with no significant deviations in pH or rheological properties compared to the control, and a droplet size that was inferior to 10 µm. This study lays the foundation for pioneering natural antioxidant cocktail-loaded ingredients that are suitable for eco-friendly cosmetic formulations, substantiating the viability of integrating environmentally friendly ingredient-based solvents.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010016
Authors: Ana Torres Isabel F. Almeida Rita Oliveira
Compounding is currently an integral part of pharmacy practice, and it is essential to the provision of healthcare. Compounding is an important therapeutic option in all areas of medicine, with relevance to dermatological treatments. Compounding topical medicines can be time-consuming and requires specialized equipment. In this regard, the use of proprietary topical liquid and semisolid vehicles/bases can be a good alternative and a more sustainable approach. This review provides an overview of existing proprietary vehicles/bases, summarizing their properties and applications and identifying existing commercial and information gaps. Creams emerge as the foremost topical base, followed by gels and ointments. Besides acting locally on the skin, almost a third of these proprietary bases/vehicles are also suitable for the transdermal application of APIs. Information regarding composition and compatibilities/incompatibilities with APIs is not always provided by the manufacturer, constraining a complete analysis of all proprietary topical bases/vehicles considered. The collection and organization of this information are important not only for pharmacy practice and physician prescription, helping to select the best vehicles/bases, but also for the industry to identify opportunities for innovation.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010015
Authors: Cloé Boira Marie Meunier Marine Bracq Amandine Scandolera Romain Reynaud
Stretch marks are far from exclusively appearing on pregnant women and appear whenever the body experiences rapid growth. Collagen fibres are altered in the dermis, which is associated with a loss of orientation, and the elastic network is disrupted, leading to a fibrotic organisation. This results in epidermal tearing that produces skin lesions. Centella asiatica (CAST) is a well-known medicinal plant rich in active triterpenic molecules and traditionally used to treat wounds and help skin repair. The aim of this study was to evaluate CAST extract as a natural way to solve stretch mark concerns and understand its mechanism of action. Fibroblast proliferation based on scratch assay model and their gene expression by RT-qPCR was first evaluated. At the ex vivo level, elastin fibres were quantified by immunofluorescence. The orientation of the collagen fibres and their occupation of the dermis were analysed after Sirius red staining and specific software analysis. We showed that CAST stimulated fibroblast proliferation and reduced extracellular matrix degradation and fibrosis. On a stretch-marked skin explant, CAST increased the occupation of collagen fibres and elastin production. Based on the mechanisms behind the formation of stretch marks, CAST restored the dermis network by optimising fibre organisation for a visible skin remodelling effect.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010014
Authors: Francesco Moro Elisa Camela Tonia Samela Lia Pirrotta Maria Beatrice Pupa Tiziano Zingoni Irene Fusco Laura Colonna
Background: Laser-assisted drug delivery is a promising strategy that enhances topical treatment by increasing cutaneous permeation and reducing side effects. In cosmetic settings, the efficacy and safety profiles of a treatment must meet the need of a painless procedure with fast recovery. In this context, Q-switched laser appears promising as it can open cutaneous pores without creating a carbonisation barrier. Methods: A split-face study on patients presenting for cosmetic procedures at IDI-IRCCS, Rome (30 September–18 October 2023), was conducted. Pan-facial Q-Switched laser was followed by a topical biostimulator applied on half of the face. Post-procedure local reactions were recorded together with patients’ perceptions. Cutaneous elasticity and hydration were assessed at baseline and three-week follow-up. The Skindex17 questionnaire evaluated the procedure’s impact on patients’ life quality. Also, participants and physicians expressed satisfaction with the treatment. Results: The procedure was well tolerated by patients; local reactions include transitory erythema, superficial bleeding, and oedema, none of which had an impact on daily life. An improvement in skin quality was documented objectively and subjectively by patients and physicians. Conclusion: Q-switched lasers emerge as promising devices for drug delivery, especially for cosmetic reasons. Indeed, the low risk of local reactions together with a remarkable increase in cutaneous permeation make this a suitable strategy for cosmetic procedures.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010013
Authors: Piotr Załęcki Karolina Rogowska Paulina Wąs Kamila Łuczak Marta Wysocka Danuta Nowicka
Measuring skin hydration is important for dermatology research, cosmetic practice, and daily skincare; it provides valuable insight into skin assessment and predicts treatment outcomes. This study investigated the level of skin hydration on various parts of the body in female university students, utilizing corneometry for measurement. Demographic, water intake, skincare, and exercise habit data were collected. The highest hydration levels were on the face (n = 40), followed by cleavage skin (n = 42), neck skin (n = 48), and leg skin (n = 42). Differences were observed between the chin and forehead (106.06 ± 21.06 vs. 91.20 ± 26.68; p = 0.001) and the chin and cheek (106.06 ± 21.06 vs. 92.00 ± 27.63; p > 0.001). The differences in the hydration measurement results on cleavage were not significant (right clavicle 55.1 ± 12.93; left clavicle 51.84 ± 10.00; sternum 53.55 ± 16.3; p = 0.379). On the neck, the middle point exhibited the highest hydration (left 41.7 ± 11.3; middle 49.2 ± 12; right 47.2 ± 8.2; p > 0.001). The skin on the thigh was significantly drier than that on the shank (31.09 ± 6.89 vs. 33.54 ± 6.28; p = 0.008). Water consumption was positively associated with skin hydration and the amount of physical activity. We conclude that every skin area is characterized by different levels of hydration. Water intake and physical activity contribute to improved skin hydration.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010012
Authors: Tania Mihaiescu Sabina Turti Marius Souca Raluca Muresan Larisa Achim Eftimia Prifti Ionel Papuc Camelia Munteanu Sorin Marian Marza
The purpose of this paper is to review the specialized literature to highlight the effects produced by energy drinks in terms of skin health. To carry out this review, we consulted previous articles with descriptive cross-sectional designs, case series, and individual case reports published between 2000 and 2023. Therefore, while caffeine acute consumption among adults can have beneficial effects, in children, it can cause health problems like overnight breaks, headaches, and dulled cognition since their organs are still developing and their endocrine system is not yet stable. Despite the antioxidant and neuroprotective effects of caffeine from energy drinks, their excessive consumption among adolescents can cause disorders like high systolic blood pressure, agitation, nausea, anxiety, osteoporosis, heart palpitations, poor sleep quality, and stomach ulcers. Among athletes, taurine supplementation has been proven to improve exercise capacity in cold weather conditions. Also, vigilance, attention, and reaction time were all improved by caffeine consumption. Caffeine administration in low doses caused a risk of cardiovascular disease. It was effective in treating migraines in children, but raised systolic blood pressure, and contributed to skin healing in adolescents. On the other side, taurine prevents obesity among children, causes positive effects on oxidative stress and inflammation in adolescents, helps shield the skin from damaging oxidative stress among students, and impacts exercise capacity in athletes. Significant increases in serum levels of uric acid, creatinine, BUN, ALT, and ALP caused by chronic intake of EDs indicated different degrees of injury to the kidneys and liver. Furthermore, the effects on the cardiovascular system could be worse if taurine and caffeine are combined. Caffeine alone does not significantly decrease sleep as much as a taurine/high caffeine ratio. On the other hand, a low ratio does.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010011
Authors: Giulia Galluccio Martina D’Onghia Dalma Malvaso Laura Lazzeri Elisa Cinotti Giovanni Rubegni Pietro Rubegni Laura Calabrese
Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin disorder that mainly affects the central face. It is primarily characterized by recurrent episodes of flushing, persistent erythema, inflammatory papules, telangiectasias, phymatous changes, and ocular symptoms. Its pathogenesis is complex and still not completely understood. It encompasses innate and adaptive immune system dysregulation, neurovascular dysfunction, and genetic and environmental factors. To date, four subtypes of rosacea have been identified, based on the predominant clinical features: erythemato-teleangiectatic, papulopustular, pyhomatous, and ocular rosacea. New insights into this condition have led to several pharmacological treatments, including topical medications, spanning from the conventional azelaic acid, metronidazole, benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, and erythromycin to new ones including not only brimonidine, oxymetazoline, ivermectine, and minocycline but also systemic drugs such as oral antibiotics, isotretinoin, non-selective β-blockers or α2-adrenergic agonists, and laser- or light-based therapies, together with new therapeutic approaches. The aim of this study was to review the current literature on the pathophysiology of rosacea and to provide an overview of therapeutic approaches that specifically address each clinical subtype.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010010
Authors: Greta Ferruggia Martina Contino Massimo Zimbone Maria Violetta Brundo
Background: People lose between 50 and 100 hairs a day and generate new ones from stem cells in hair follicles, but in those suffering from baldness, the stem cells remain inactive and are unable to regenerate new hair. Although 9% of hair follicles remain in telogen at any time, a variety of factors, including growth factors and cytokines, promote the transition from telogen to anagen and the subsequent stimulation of hair growth. Methods: We compared in vitro, on cultures of human hair follicles, the effect on hair growth and regeneration of the dermal papilla of plant-derived nanovesicles, exosomes from cord blood stem cells and bovine colostrum, a mixture of growth factors and cytokines purified from bovine colostrum, called GF20, and a new compound called HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX obtained by adding exosomes isolated from colostrum to GF20. Results: The analyses demonstrated a significant increase in the growth of the bulb and the regeneration of the dermal papilla in the samples treated with HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX compared to the other elements tested. Conclusions: In this research, we propose a possible new treatment that could help significantly slow down hair loss and encourage new hair growth: HAIR & SCALP COMPLEX.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010009
Authors: Bruna Bravo Lais Penedo Raquel Carvalho Carolina Dal Vesco Mariana Calomeni Debora Gapanowicz Elaine Kemen Raphaela Paes Guilherme Renke
Menopause marks the end of a woman’s reproductive life. It is well-known that skin aging is accelerated during this period, as declining estrogen detrimentally impacts the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) which is the provider of strength and elasticity. Menopause also affects scalp hair, reducing hair diameter and leading to shorter hair growth. Objective: To evaluate the main dermatological complaints of Brazilian women during this period, comparing the compatibility of these complaints with similar studies that evaluated skin health at menopause. Methods: This study interviewed 463 postmenopausal women between 42 and 83 years old through a public electronic questionnaire in the SurveyMonkey app about their perception of the changes noticed in their hair and skin after menopause. All statistical analyses were performed in R v. 3.6.1. Results with p-values < 0.05 were considered significant. Results: Dermatological health in menopausal women, especially the quality of the skin, nails and hair may deteriorate with estrogen deficits. As life expectancy increases and hormone replacement therapy (HRT) becomes more common, a greater understanding of their dermatological effects in menopause is needed. Conclusions: Menopause strongly impacts skin quality and worsens women’s self-esteem and quality of life. There is still a lack of knowledge about HRT and specific treatments for improving skin, hair and nails.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010008
Authors: Alexandra-Cristina Tocai (Moţoc) Adriana Ramona Memete Mariana Ganea Laura Graţiela Vicaș Octavia Dorina Gligor Simona Ioana Vicas
There has been a significant increase in the use of botanical resources for the formulation of topical products designed for medicinal and cosmetic applications. Sanguisorba minor Scop., a botanical species, exhibits a variety of properties and has significant potential for applications in the field of cosmetics. The aim of this study was to formulate topical preparations, incorporating an extract derived from the plant S. minor Scop. comprising a combination of roots, leaves, and flowers. In the initial phase, a total of seven combinations were prepared using extracts derived from the roots, leaves, and flowers of S. minor Scop. (v/v/v). These combinations were subsequently subjected to evaluation for their antioxidant capacity using four distinct methods: 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), and Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC). An extract of plant organs in a ratio of 1:2:1 (v/v/v), which had a strong antioxidant capacity and demonstrated synergistic effects according to the DPPH, TEAC, and CUPRAC assays (with values of 1.58 ± 0.1, 1.18 ± 0.09, and 1.07 ± 0.07, respectively), was selected for inclusion in three dermato-cosmetic products (hydrogel, emulgel, and cream). All the prepared preparations were evaluated in terms of topical formulation attributes and organoleptic characteristics. The testing of dermato-cosmetic products included assessments of their topical formulation properties and organoleptic characteristics. The hydrogel, emulgel, and cream exhibited varying degrees of stretchability. In addition, a study was carried out to assess the in vitro release of polyphenols from the cosmetic formulations using a Franz diffusion cell system. The results showed that the emulgel containing the extract of S. minor Scop. had the highest and most significant release of polyphenols, with a release rate of 84.39 ± 1.01%. This was followed by the hydrogel and cream, which had release percentages of 80.52 ± 0.89 and 75.88 ± 0.88, respectively, over an 8 h period. Thus, for the first time in the literature, a topical cosmetic product with high antioxidant potential containing S. minor Scop. extract was developed and optimized.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010007
Authors: Fernanda Daud Sarruf Vecxi Judith Pereda Contreras Renata Miliani Martinez Maria Valéria Robles Velasco André Rolim Baby
The use of clays in beauty care comes from ancient times, with therapeutic use since prehistory, and it is considerably relevant in the current cosmetic industry worldwide. In our review, we described types of clay and clay minerals used in cosmetics and dermocosmetics, compositions, usages as active compounds and cosmetic ingredients/starting materials, and observations about formulation techniques. From this review, we observed that although much scientific and specialized literature has reported the characterization of clays, only some involved efficacy tests when incorporated into cosmetic products, mainly concerning haircare applications. Our review could be considered and encouraged in the coming years to provide scientific and technical information for the cosmetic industry regarding the multifunctional use of clays and clay minerals.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010006
Authors: Geórgia de Assis Dias Alves Camila Helena Ferreira Cuelho Maria José Vieira Fonseca Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
The introduction of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnOn) in sunscreens solved the issue of poor spreadability of these formulations, which often left a white film on the skin. However, safety concerns have arisen regarding the topical application of ZnOn. Some studies employed commercial sunscreens to address the safety issues of the topical application of ZnOn; however, commercial formulations are often complex and contain a wide range of ingredients that could attenuate the potential damage caused by the ZnOn. Therefore, in this study we aimed to develop a simple stable formulation containing 20% of coated and uncoated ZnOn, characterize the formulations and the nanoparticles, and assess the skin penetration in a Franz diffusion cell. The Feret’s diameter for the uncoated and coated ZnOn was 137 nm and 134 nm, respectively. For the uncoated ZnOn the hydrodynamic size in water was 368 nm and for the coated ZnOn, the average hydrodynamic size in ethyl acetate was 135 nm. The incorporation of ZnOn led to formulations more consistent and easier to spread, as suggested by the lower work of shear and higher values of firmness, cohesiveness, consistency and index of viscosity compared with the vehicle. The stability assessment at 45 °C suggested that the formulations containing the ZnOn were stable for 30 days and the vehicle was stable for 90 days. The assessment of the skin penetration by reflectance confocal laser microscopy indicated that the ZnOn did not permeate into the deepest layers of the skin, but accumulated on the skin furrows, hair and hair follicles.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010005
Authors: Raquel Sanabria-de la Torre María Ceres-Muñoz Carlota Pretel-Lara Trinidad Montero-Vílchez Salvador Arias-Santiago
(1) Background: Skin barrier function resides mostly in the stratum corneum, which consists of a protein component, the corneocyte (bricks), which provides a scaffold for the second component, the extracellular matrix, consisting of multilayers of lipids (mortar). These two components closely interact and this could be the basis for the differences in the biophysical properties of the skin between anatomical regions. So, the aim of this study was to compare skin microstructural properties between body sites. (2) Methods: A comparative study was conducted that included healthy individuals without previous skin diseases. Skin barrier function parameters and microtopography parameters (smoothness, roughness, desquamation, wrinkles, surface, volume, contrast, variance, homogeneity, anisotropy, total cell count, flaking index, skin surface hardness, brightness, deformability and friction) were measured on the forearm, cheek and palm. (3) Results: 44 participants were included in this study, with a mean age of 38.8 ± 15.0 years. Significant differences were found between body sites for 14 of the 15 parameters evaluated. Smoothness was higher on the forearm than on the cheek and palm (240.02 Sems vs. 348.16 vs. 408.19 Sems, p < 0.05). Hardness was higher on the palm than on the forearm and cheek (13.22 AU vs. 9.44 AU vs. 7.94 AU, p < 0.05). Moreover, we observed that sociodemographic characteristics such as age, sex, tobacco and/or alcohol use, influenced the parameters evaluated. (4) Conclusions: The differences in skin barrier function and microtopography between anatomical regions reflects the different structure of skin in each body part and could help to understand the influence of the sociodemographic characteristics on theses parameters. This information could be useful for comparison with pathological skin characteristics and for targeting new treatments.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010004
Authors: Thuy-Tien Thi Trinh Pham Ngoc Chien Linh Thi Thuy Le Nguyen Ngan-Giang Pham Thi Nga Sun-Young Nam Chan-Yeong Heo
One of the most notable signs of an aging face is the nasolabial folds (NLFs), which often diminish emotional well-being and self-confidence. To address this concern, many people seek solutions to improve their appearance, often turning to fillers. The ULTRACOL100 device, a tissue restoration material, has been previously investigated and shown to exhibit significant efficacy in both in vitro and in vivo studies. In this research, we aim to explore the safety and effectiveness of the clinical trial of ULTRACOL100 in improving the skin in the NLF area over an 8-week observation period. Male and Female adults with nasolabial folds received two injections of ULTRACOL100, with a 4-week interval between treatments, on one side of their faces. On the other side, they received control materials (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, or HYRONT®). The assessment of skin improvement in the nasolabial fold area for each subject took place before and four weeks after each application. Various skin parameters, such as roughness, elasticity, moisture, transparency, trans-epidermal water loss, tone, radiance, skin pore size, and skin density, were measured to evaluate the outcomes. The application of the ULTRACOL100 device significantly reduced the skin roughness, the trans-epidermal water loss, and the skin pore size and increased the skin’s elasticity and internal elasticity, as well as the skin’s moisture, transparency, skin tone, radiance, and density. This study comprehensively investigates the effectiveness and safety of the ULTRACOL100 device, comparing it with three commercial products (REJURAN®, JUVELOOK®, and HYRONT®). The ULTRACOL100 device showed comparable performance in improving the appearance of the NLF area among this study subjects.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010003
Authors: Nadia Sciamarrelli François Rosset Sara Boskovic Silvia Borriello Luca Mastorino Simone Ribero Pietro Quaglino Paolo Broganelli
This original article presents the findings of a comprehensive case series, shedding light on the efficacy of diverse treatment modalities for managing precancerous and cancerous skin lesions and their remarkable rejuvenation effects on the skin. A particular focus is placed on the promising outcomes achieved through the application of a combination treatment involving 5-Fluorouracil (5-FU) and salicylic acid, which demonstrates enduring and noteworthy results. Furthermore, alternative therapeutic approaches, including 5-FU monotherapy, Methyl aminolevulinate–photodynamic therapy (MAL-PDT), and the combination of Imiquimod therapy with MAL-PDT, exhibit substantial potential for patients seeking non-surgical solutions. These treatments manifest as valuable tools in improving skin texture and mitigating the effects of photodamage. Nevertheless, the intricate interplay between the chosen treatment, the extent of photodamage, and individual patient characteristics, with a particular emphasis on age, necessitates long-term follow-up to gauge treatment outcomes and the likelihood of lesion recurrence. Notably, these treatments are associated with a significant degree of inflammation, igniting curiosity regarding enhanced skin cellular turnover and the potential for a more youthful skin appearance. Our findings accentuate the promise of topical fluorouracil (5-FU) and photodynamic therapy (PDT) in combating photoaging among patients with actinic keratoses. However, a need for further in-depth research is evident to unravel the nuanced relationships between these treatments, the severity of photodamage, and the influence of patient-specific factors. Such comprehensive investigations are instrumental in optimizing patient care and outcomes, offering a holistic approach to managing photodamage within the context of actinic keratoses. This work, when combined with existing literature, provides valuable insights and serves as a catalyst for future research to fully unlock the potential of these treatments, ultimately enhancing the quality of patient care.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010002
Authors: Shani Shecori Mafatlal M. Kher Aharon Azagury Elyashiv Drori
Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 European and 12 Israeli grapevine varieties. Our research explores the correlations between total polyphenol content (TPC), tyrosinase inhibition, sun protection factor (SPF), and half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of these extracts. Our findings reveal substantial variation in TPC among grapevine varieties’ leaves, with the Israeli varieties showing higher TPC levels than the European ones. Correlation analysis demonstrates a robust link between TPC and SPF, indicating that increased TPC contributes to enhanced sun protection properties. However, TPC alone does not strongly correlate with tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting the importance of specific polyphenols in tyrosinase inhibition. Furthermore, the study identifies specific peaks in the HPLC analysis that correlate with desired activities. In summary, our research highlights the potential of grapevine leaf extracts, especially those from Israeli indigenous varieties, in addressing hyperpigmentation. It emphasizes the importance of specific polyphenols rather than TPC alone in achieving the desired effects. These findings open doors for further investigation into identifying and isolating active compounds from grapevine leaves for skincare applications.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11010001
Authors: Felipe Rico Angela Mazabel Greciel Egurrola Juanita Pulido Nelson Barrios Ronald Marquez Johnbrynner García
The ever-evolving cosmetic industry requires advanced analytical techniques to explore, understand, and optimize product performance at nano, micro, and macroscopic levels. Nowadays, these insights are crucial for translating microstructure behavior into macroscopic properties. This knowledge is essential to formulate products with a lower carbon footprint and a higher sustainability profile, incorporating, at the same time, natural or biobased raw materials. These raw materials may present challenges for formulators and analytical scientists due to either an inferior performance when compared to their fossil-derived counterparts or higher costs. This comprehensive review covers a spectrum of analytical methodologies employed in cosmetic formulation, including chromatographic analyses, olfactometry, and electronic nose technology. The characterization of product stability involving assessing parameters such as droplet size, zeta potential, viscosity, analytical centrifugation, surface tension, and interfacial tension are also explored. The discussion in this paper extends to the role of rheology in understanding the molecular structure and behavioral dynamics of cosmetic samples. This review concludes with an overview of colorimetric analysis, a crucial aspect related to consumer perception, followed by a discussion on the challenges and opportunities associated with using meta-analysis methodologies in cosmetics. The formulation of cosmetics employing biobased feedstocks is included, highlighting the evolving landscape of cosmetic science and the integration of sustainable practices. This review stands at the interface between a meta-analysis of cosmetics and product performance, which is attained through a detailed examination of each analytical method. The know-how shared serves as a valuable resource for formulators, researchers, and industry professionals for real-world applications in the analytical field of cosmetics formulation.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060172
Authors: Marielle Moreau Tanesha Naiken Gérard Bru Clarisse Marteau Laurence Canaple Lorène Gourguillon Emmanuelle Leblanc Elodie Oger Audrey Le Mestr Joel Mantelin Isabelle Imbert Carine Nizard Anne-Laure Bulteau
Objective: This study explored the impact of a black tea extract obtained through (plant small RNA) PSRTM technology, characterized by its abundance of small molecules, particularly citric acid—an antioxidant and tricarboxylic acid (TCA) cycle contributor—on mitochondrial health. The primary focus was to assess whether this extract could counteract reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced mitochondrial alterations associated with aging, which lead to impaired mitochondrial function, reduced ATP production, and increased ROS generation. Methods: The PSRTM extraction method was employed to obtain a high content of polyphenols and small molecules, particularly citric acid. Results: In comparison with a conventional extract, the PSRTM extract demonstrated significant enhancements in aconitase activity, an ROS-sensitive enzyme in the TCA cycle, as well as basal respiration and ATP synthesis in fibroblast cells and skin biopsies. Moreover, the PSRTM extract effectively reduced ROS production by safeguarding this critical enzyme within the Krebs cycle and displayed superior capabilities in scavenging free radicals when exposed to UV-induced stress. When administered post-UV exposure, the PSRTM extract protected nuclear DNA by reducing the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and promoting DNA repair mechanisms. Furthermore, the extract exhibited beneficial effects on the extracellular matrix, characterized by a reduction in matrix metalloprotease 1 (MMP1) and an increase in fibrillin 1 expression. Conclusions: These findings collectively suggest that the PSRTM extract holds promising antiaging potential, potentially functioning as a mitochondrial nutrient/protector due to its multifaceted benefits on mitochondrial function, nuclear DNA integrity, and the extracellular matrix.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060171
Authors: Ira Maya Devani Olivia Winardi Eri Amalia Soraya Ratnawulan Mita Cahya Khairani Kusumawulan Norisca Aliza Putriana Sriwidodo Sriwidodo
Free radicals can cause damage to the structure of the dermis layer, which makes skin lose its elasticity and leads to the formation of wrinkles. A strategy to prevent this problem is by using antioxidants. A plant that has been reported to contain good antioxidant activity is sacha inchi seed (Plukenetia volubilis L.); apart from that, its oil has quite a high omega-3 content and potentially can act as an anti-aging agent stimulating the skin-cell-regeneration process, maintaining skin moisture and elasticity and stimulating collagen production. This research aims to analyze the physicochemical characteristics and determine the fatty acid profile, the levels of vitamins A, D, and E, and the antioxidant activity of sacha inchi seed oil. This research was conducted through eight main stages: sacha inchi seed extraction, quality parameters checking, phytochemical screening, determining fatty acid profiles, vitamin analysis, antioxidant activity tests, microbiological contamination tests, and heavy-metal contamination tests. In this study, quality inspection results were obtained: organoleptic form (liquid), color (yellow), odor (typical), relative density value (0.91 g/cm3), acid number (0.38 ± 0.02 mg/g), peroxide value (11.01 mEq/Kg), iodine value (179.32 g/100 g), and refractive index (1.479). The phytochemical screening results of sacha inchi seed oil were positive for containing flavonoids, triterpenoids, and steroids. The results of the fatty acid profile were omega-3 (48.5%), omega-6 (34.8%), and omega-9 (7.7%). The results of the vitamin contents analysis were vitamin A (123.42 mg/100 g), vitamin D (899.46 mg/100 g), and vitamin E (145.06 mg/100 g). The antioxidant activity test showed an IC50 value of 8.859 ppm (very strong), and the microbial and heavy-metal contamination tests were negative.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060170
Authors: Fatima Errajouani Hanane Bakrim Sohaib Hourfane Adnane Louajri João Miguel Rocha Noureddine El Aouad Amin Laglaoui
Long before its popularization as a skincare ingredient, snail slime was reported to have a variety of health-promoting attributes. Its medicinal use involved the treatment of ailments, such as anthrax, hernias, stomach pain, chest pain, as well as tuberculosis. The main aim of this study was to investigate the anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties of snail slime from Cepaea hortensis (Müller, 1774) (brown garden snail). The slime was extracted by a mild method, and the anti-inflammatory characteristics were determined by croton-oil-induced mouse-ear edema. The histological study showed that the snail slime exerts its action at the level of inflammatory mediators, explaining the drastic decrease of edema (59% in comparison to the 47% of indomethacin). The daily application of 50 µL (15 mg/kg) of snail slime on excision wounds in rabbits proved to induce an almost full tissue repair after 24 days of treatment (87.80–92.7% wound closure in width and length, respectively). Analysis of the slime’s safety aspect allowed affirming the nontoxicity of snail slime on both the skin and eyes.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060169
Authors: Adrianna Dzidek Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig Aleksandra Ziembla Karolina Matysiak Karolina Zawadzka Małgorzata Kulesa-Mrowiecka Ivan Uher Tomasz Pałka Janka Poráčová Anna Piotrowska
The skin serves protective roles for internal organs and is responsible for maintaining homeostasis between the body and the environment. The outermost and most exposed part of the skin to environmental factors is the stratum corneum (SC). SC hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values provide information about the physiological state of the skin. Plant oils, owing to their chemical structure, possess moisturizing and protective functions. This study assessed the impact of a single application of drying oil (Rubus idaeus seed oil), semi-drying oil (Sesamum indicum seed oil), and nondrying oil (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil) on specific skin characteristics in young, healthy women. Thirty-five female volunteers (age: 20.03 ± 1.69) participated in the study. Before commencing the investigation, a questionnaire survey on the subjective assessment of skin condition and a body composition test were conducted. Subsequently, each participant had three oils applied to nonoverlapping skin areas on the forearms. Skin characteristics were assessed before and 1 h after the oil application using specialized probes: a corneometer and a tewameter. An enhancement in skin hydration was evident after the application of each of the tested oils (p = 0.001). Raspberry oil demonstrated the most significant moisturizing effect, while coconut oil showed the weakest impact. Only raspberry seed oil (p = 0.012) resulted in a noteworthy decrease in TEWL. The initial skin condition did not correlate with the subjects’ body composition, and the improvement induced by the application of the oils was not dependent on body weight, body water content, or BMI (body mass index). The applied vegetable oils positively influence the level of SC hydration. Improvement in barrier function, as measured by TEWL, was observed only for raspberry seed oil.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060168
Authors: Lisa Kwin Wah Chan Kar Wai Alvin Lee Cheuk Hung Lee
Background: After significant weight loss, the abdominal skin can become permanently stretched, resulting in stretch marks, laxity, and thinning of the dermis. For many patients, surgical methods such as abdominoplasty are too risky due to the potential for complications, the lengthy recovery period, and the high cost. Objective: The purpose of this pilot study was to use microfocused ultrasound, calcium hydroxyapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A to improve the appearance of patients who were suffering from abdominal skin laxity after heavy weight loss. The combination of these treatments can provide comprehensive results with minimal downtime and lower risk compared to traditional surgical procedures. Methods: Our team treated four female Chinese patients with microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A with different combinations, respectively. The first and second cases were only treated with 810 shots of microfocused ultrasound. The third case received 850 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 50 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin, and the fourth case was treated with 900 shots of microfocused ultrasound plus 5 mL of diluted calcium hydroxylapatite and 10 units of Incobotulinum toxin A on the left abdominal skin. All four patients received a single treatment session. Clinical photographs were taken before each treatment, and two individual blinded investigators were asked to assess photographs taken after 4 weeks and compare them with the pretreatment photos. Results: All four cases showed an overall clinical improvement, with the third and fourth cases demonstrating more significant skin tightening based on photographic analysis. The data indicate that the inclusion of calcium hydroxylapatite and Incobotulinum toxin A in microfocused ultrasound treatment yields superior results for abdominal rejuvenation. Conclusions: Abdominal skin laxity can be treated with a triple therapy combining microfocused ultrasound, diluted calcium hydroxylapatite, and Incobotulinum toxin A.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060167
Authors: Mokgadi Ursula Makgobole Nomakhosi Mpofana Abdulwakeel Ayokun-nun Ajao
Skin disease is a severe health issue that affects a lot of people in Africa and is vastly underreported. Because of their availability, affordability, and safety, medicinal plants represent a major source of treatment for various skin diseases in West Africa. This review presents the medicinal plants used in treating skin diseases in West Africa and their available biological activities that have lent credence to their skin care usage. A total of 211 plant species from 56 families are implicated to be used in West Africa for several skin conditions such as aphthous ulcers, burns, eczema, scabies, sores, and wounds. Fabaceae is the most-implicated family (30 species) for the treatment of skin diseases, followed by Combretaceae (14 species) and Asteraceae (13 species). Most of the medicinal plants used are trees (93); leaves (107) were the most-used plant part, and decoction (73) was the preferred preparation method for the medicinal plants. The biological activities related to the pathology of skin diseases, such as antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties of 82 plants, have been evaluated. Based on their minimum inhibitory concentration, the most active antimicrobial plant is Brillantaisia lamium. Among the isolated phytochemicals, betulenic acid and lespedin were the most active, while plants such as Kigelia africana and Strophanthus hispidus showed significant wound-healing activities. This review highlights research gaps in the ethnobotanical studies of many West African countries, the biological activities of plants used to treat skin diseases, and the cosmetic potential of these plants.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060166
Authors: Débora Dahmer Sara Scandorieiro Briani Gisele Bigotto Thays Amélio Bergamini Jennifer Germiniani-Cardozo Isabela Mazarim da Costa Renata Katsuko Takayama Kobayashi Gerson Nakazato Dionísio Borsato Sandra Helena Prudencio Marina Leite Mitterer Daltoé Maria Antonia Pedrine Colabone Celligoi Audrey Alesandra Stinghen Garcia Lonni
The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnological ingredients. The present study reports the development of a multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOPs) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil, using a simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through the Response Surface Method, and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using the bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatibility with lips and remained stable after a centrifuge test and thermal stress. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm2, moisture retention was above 95% and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, maintained the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. For the first time, LEV and SOP were incorporated in lip moisturizers, which is an environmentally friendly product with marketing potential. Furthermore, the use of the Skin Analyzer Digital equipment, a low-cost and non-invasive technique, to evaluate the effectiveness of lip products is innovative; this methodology may help in the development of future cosmetology studies.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060165
Authors: Mihai Teodor Georgescu Oana Gabriela Trifanescu Georgia Luiza Serbanescu Radu Iulian Mitrica Dragos Eugen Georgescu Raluca Ioana Mihaila Alexandra Neagu Alexandra Gaube Cristian Botezatu Bogdan Stelian Manolescu Mastalier
Skin squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) represents a major public health concern due to its high incidence and potential for local invasion and metastasis. Compared to local recurrence, metastatic SCC represents an even greater therapeutic challenge. Once distant metastasis occurs, the disease becomes incurable, and treatment focuses on palliation and prolonging survival. The immune microenvironment of SCC is characterized by an infiltration of immune cells, including tumor-infiltrating lymphocytes. In addition to its direct cytotoxic effects, radiotherapy also induces immunomodulatory effects within the tumor microenvironment. Radiation can promote the release of tumor-associated antigens and induce immunogenic cell death, thereby enhancing the recognition of tumor cells by the immune system. Immunotherapy and radiotherapy have emerged as promising therapeutic modalities for metastatic SCC. This literature review aims to evaluate the potential synergy between these treatments and shed light on their combined efficacy. Within the manuscript, we present a compelling case report of a patient with advanced SCC who exhibited resistance to the combined regimen of immunotherapy and radiotherapy, leading to disease progression. Despite the increasing evidence supporting the synergy between these modalities, this case underscores the complex nature of treatment response and the importance of considering individual patient characteristics.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060164
Authors: Moon-Hee Choi Seung-Hwa Yang Yeo-Jin Lee Jeong Ho Sohn Ki Sun Lee Hyun-Jae Shin
Pachyrhizus erosus (L.) Urb. is a tropical perennial vine plant native to southern Mexico, Southeast Asia, Central America, and Africa. In this study, we analyzed and identified various polyphenolic compounds and isoflavones present in ethanolic P. erosus root extracts and investigated their potential anti-obesity activity as a natural health food resource. The extraction process involved drying the yam bean, followed by extraction with 70% ethanol, evaporation, and freeze-drying. Fractionation was achieved through layer separation using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol (BuOH), and water. The EtOAc fraction exhibited the highest antioxidant activity among the experimental groups, with an IC50 value of 531.77 µg/mL for ABTS radical scavenging. In α-glucosidase and lipase inhibition assays, IC50 values were determined to be 873.07 µg/mL and 915.02 µg/mL, respectively. Using HPLC and LC-MS/MS, we detected isoflavone components in P. erosus root extracts, identifying daidzein, genistein, and rotenone among them. Daidzein was the most abundant isoflavone in P. erosus root extracts. To validate the anti-obesity activity in the EtOAc fraction and daidzein, we used 3T3-L1 preadipocytes treated with MDI (3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine, dexamethasone, insulin) for 8 days. Oil Red O staining experiments demonstrated a concentration-dependent reduction in lipid content in the EtOAc fraction and daidzein treatment groups. Additionally, we examined the expression pattern of proteins related to the leptin-PPAR-FAS Pathway, revealing a concentration-dependent decrease in obesity-related proteins.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060163
Authors: Marisanna Centini Giulia Signori Fabrizio Francescon Fumi Tsuno Tomoki Oguro Cecilia Anselmi
The research was carried out on a hair conditioner containing the following rice derivatives individually: rice germ oil, rice germ oil GX-N, and riceterol esters. To evaluate the protective efficacy of the three active ingredients chosen, the following techniques were used: FT-IR, SEM, stress–strain test, and polarized light microscopy analysis. The tests were carried out on natural Caucasian hair. The methodologies were found to be suitable for the evaluation and led to interesting results: the selected ingredients showed good properties in improving the hair. The conditioners containing the active ingredients restored the properties of the hair even when subjected to stress such as irradiation. In this case, the most effective was the rice germ oil GX-N.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060162
Authors: Mila Vukašinović Ivana Pantelić Sanela Savić Nebojša Cekić Maja Vukašinović Sekulić Jelena Antić Stanković Dragana D. Božić Anđela Tošić Slobodanka Tamburić Snežana D. Savić
Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and efficacious environmentally friendly (“green”) emulsion using a milk protein hydrolysate as a model active ingredient. Potential emulsions were formulated with biodegradable emollients, stabilized with naturally derived mixed emulsifier, and prepared by cold process. They were evaluated for rheological behavior (continuous rotation and oscillation tests), physical stability (dynamic mechanical thermal analysis—DMTA test), and texture profiles, as well as cytotoxic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects. Rheological characterization revealed shear-thinning flow behavior with yield point from continuous rotation tests and predominantly elastic character from oscillation (amplitude and frequency sweep) tests, with small structural change detected in the DMTA test. These results implied satisfactory rheological properties and good stability. Texture analysis revealed acceptable spreadability and substantivity of the emulsions. The protein hydrolysate showed antioxidant activity. The developed emulsions showed low antibacterial activity against selected microorganisms, but this was due to the action of preservatives, not peptides. All potential emulsions showed a desirable safety profile. The results obtained provide the basis for the next stage of formulation development, i.e., in vivo efficacy tests.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060161
Authors: Sang-Hun Song Hyun-Sub Park Juhyun Jeon Seong Kil Son Nae-Gyu Kang
In this study, we discovered that washing hair with surfactants causes a decrease in the internal density of hair, and we propose a cuticle-sealing strategy to inhibit this phenomenon. This phenomenon was revealed based on optical analyses such as optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), drop shape analysis, atomic force microscopy (AFM), and single hair analysis. Repeated treatment with surfactants creates areas of low density within the hair. Additionally, treatment with low-molecular-weight materials resulted in replenishment of the internal density of the hair. It has been shown that the more severe the degree of cuticle lifting, the more the internal density of the hair is reduced by surfactants. In addition, the study confirmed that a decrease in internal density could be prevented by sealing the cell membrane complex (CMC), and it was suggested that this reduced internal density may reflect the pore structure of hair. This study investigates the mass transfer phenomenon that occurs in hair and proposes a strategy to maintain hair homeostasis.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060160
Authors: Paraskevi Kalofiri Foteini Biskanaki Vasiliki Kefala Niki Tertipi Eleni Sfyri Efstathios Rallis
Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are molecules capable of mimicking the natural hormones of the body and interfering with the endocrine system in both humans and wildlife. Cosmetic products are one source of EDs; these include an extensive variety of personal care and beauty products designed for the skin and hair, as well as makeup. The widespread use of such products has raised concerns about the presence of EDs within them. In this study, we highlight the issue of EDs and analyze the functioning of the EU regulatory framework for chemicals, specifically those which act as EDs in cosmetic products. We also highlight issues related to the interface between science and policy in the critical area of risk regulation within the EU. In addition, we investigate how chemical substances that act as EDs are identified based on specific criteria and conditions, a process which involves the production and adoption of particular scientific opinions. Finally, we assess the efficiency, suitability, and effectiveness of the regulatory framework in this sensitive area of human exposure to chemicals, especially those that function as EDs.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060159
Authors: Lonetá Lauro Lima Karina Bispo-dos-Santos Ingrid Mayara Cavalcante Trevisan Catarina Rapôso Paulo Eduardo Neves Ferreira Velho Ediléia Bagatin Rodrigo Alvarenga Rezende Jorge Vicente Lopes da Silva Gislaine Ricci Leonardi
Interest in clean beauty is rising due to minimalism in the formulation of cosmetics, rational use of water, and fewer chemical additives like preservatives, colorants, surfactants, and artificial fragrances. Green ingredients lead to the development of sustainable formulations with advanced performance and are less aggressive to human health and the environment. Currently, the electrospinning technique is used as a simple one-step manufacturing process to produce nanostructured cosmetics under mild temperature conditions. This study focuses on the utilization of rice bran oil (RBO) in the creation of sustainable nanostructured cosmetics for potential cosmetic and well-being applications. Four sustainable formulations were developed to optimize the creation of nanostructured cosmetics using ethyl cellulose and rice bran oil (RBO). Ethanol absolute and polyvinyl pyrrolidone have been chosen to compose the sustainable formulation due to their biocompatibility and biodegradability. We studied four different RBO concentrations regarding morphology, encapsulation efficiency, biodegradability, and cytotoxicity. Nanostructured cosmetics present biomimetic surfaces, high RBO encapsulation ability, low mass loss at simulated physiologic conditions, and non-cytotoxicity. Therefore, the minimalist sustainable formulation does not contain any toxic solvents and incompatible harmful excipients, was nanostructured using a mild manufacturing process, and obtained high RBO entrapment.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060158
Authors: Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante Maxim E. Darvin Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos
This randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical in vivo study aimed to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for non-inflammatory acne using essential oils. Fifty-three male participants were divided into four groups: a formulation containing a mixture of four essential oils (4EO), Melaleuca alternifolia (M.a.), nanoemulsion of M. alternifolia (Nanoem.), and a placebo group. The participants applied the formulation daily for 90 days and non-invasive skin imaging techniques were employed to assess the outcomes. Skin microrelief images and reflectance confocal microscopy images were captured in the malar region, and Raman spectroscopy was used to analyze the terpene composition of the essential oils, oil mixture, and nanoemulsion. The results indicated that the nanoemulsion, M.a. essential oil, and 4EO formulation effectively reduced the overall number of comedone and improved follicular hyperkeratinization. The nanoemulsion of M.a. demonstrated the most promising outcomes in reducing comedone areas, especially in the infundibular region. This effect could be attributed to the presence of terpinene-4-ol in the essential oil and the enhanced penetration provided by the nanoemulsion formulation. These findings suggest that cosmetic formulations containing essential oils, particularly in nanoemulsion form, have potential against mild acne. This study contributes to our understanding of the relationship between terpene composition and clinical activity, highlighting the importance of innovative delivery systems.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060157
Authors: Francisco José González-Minero Luis Bravo-Díaz Esteban Moreno-Toral
This paper aims to establish a current relationship between pharmaceutical sciences andthe development of perfumes and fragrances, which bring significant economic benefits. For this purpose, historical data are used as a starting point, and galenic, chemical and botanical aspects are discussed in a transversal way. Sources such as Web of Science (WOS) and databases such as Scopus, monographs and various web pages (where scientific–technical documents appear) were used. The results and discussion are based on the selection of the 50 plant species most commonly used in high-quality fragrances. Therefore, this publication should be considered an approach to this subject based on an analysis of a representative sample of data. Some characteristics of perfumes (classification according to the concentration of essential oils and combination of plant extracts) are presented beforehand. The main focus of this work is the botanical and chemical analysis of these described plants, pointing out their common name, correct botanical name, geographical place of origin, used part of the plant and main molecules. The most significant families are aromatic: Rutaceae, Lamiaceae (16.7%) and Apiaceae. The most represented genus is Citrus (with seven species or hybrids). However, it should be noted that natural extracts of good quality natural fragrances may be supplemented with chemically synthesized molecules. Of the 50 botanical species selected, 84% of the extracts have their origin in Tropical Asia, the Middle East and the Mediterranean region. This figure generally coincides with the percentage of medicinal plants (or their extracts) admitted by the European Pharmacopoeia. All parts of a plant (depending on which one it is) can be a source of molecules for the elaboration of these products. The most commonly used parts to obtain extracts are flowers and leaves, a biological circumstance that is explained in this work. In this work, 110 molecules have been found that are part of the essences of perfumes and fragrances; the most frequent are linalool, limonene, 1,8-cineole, eugenol and derivatives, geraniol, vanillin and derivatives, β-caryophyllene, p-cymene, and farnesene and derivatives. However, in order to elaborate a quality perfume, many other molecules must be taken into account, according to the creative experience of the perfumer, which is subject to confidentiality, and chemical analysis according to current legislation, which would avoid fraud, allergy and dermatitis problems.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060156
Authors: Wattana Pelyuntha Mingkwan Yingkajorn Thamonwan Narkpao Supanida Saeaui Khemapsorn Promkuljan Kitiya Vongkamjan
The emergence of multidrug-resistant (MDR) Staphylococcus spp. has resulted in the reduced use of antibiotics in many skincare cosmetic products. Alternative treatments using natural bioactive compounds and chemical agents can be replaced. However, these compounds have induced negative side effects among users and are not environmentally friendly. Phage therapy is an alternative to antibiotics for the treatment of specific pathogenic bacteria including Staphylococcus spp., without harmful effects on human skin cells and microflora. Phages can be potentially used in cosmetic products. The direct application of phage-based cosmetic products on skin can reduce the chance of skin infection caused by pathogenic Staphylococcus spp. In the present work, we isolated 17 Staphylococcus phages from sewage and soil samples. Phage A1 showed the highest lytic ability at 50% (B1 profile), covering 13 tested Staphylococcus isolates including Staphylococcus aureus (SA), methicillin-resistant S. aureus (MRSA), S. capitis (SC), and S. epidermidis (SE). Phage A1 reduced the representative S. aureus ATCC 25923 and S. capitis SC1 by 2.0 ± 0.1 and 4.1 ± 0.3 log units at a multiplicity of infection (MOI) of 104 and by 4.2 ± 0.2 and 4.4 ± 0.5 log units at a MOI of 105 after 6 h of post-phage treatment. The transmission electron microscope revealed that phage A1 was classified in the order Caudovirales of the family Myoviridae based on its appearance. Phage A1 showed optimal survival in the presence of a 0.125% (v/v) solidant DMH suspension after 3 h of post-treatment. Under a phage skincare serum formulation, the titers of phage A1 were reduced by 0.46 and 0.85 log units after storage at 4 and 25 °C, whereas a reduction of 2.96 log units was also observed after storage at 37° for 90 days. This study provides strong evidence for the effectiveness of phage application in cosmetic skincare serum for the treatment of skin diseases caused by MDR and pathogenic Staphylococcus spp. The concept of this study could be advantageous for cosmetic and/or cosmeceutical industries searching for new bioactive ingredients for cosmetic/cosmeceutical products.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060155
Authors: Andrea Cavagnino Lionel Breton Charline Ruaux Celeste Grossgold Suzy Levoy Rawad Abdayem Romain Roumiguiere Stephanie Cheilian Anne Bouchara Martin A. Baraibar Audrey Gueniche
(1) Background: Skin undergoes constant changes, providing capabilities to repair and renovate its constituents once damaged and a fundamental shield to contrast environmental stress. Nevertheless, environmental stressors may overcome the skin’s protective potential inducing premature aging and accelerating the appearance of anaesthetic age-related skin aspects. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and pollutants (particulate matters, PAHs) contribute to skin aging and functional decline inducing harmful oxidative modifications of macromolecules and stress-related skin disorders. Innovative approaches to preserve skin are needed. (2) Methods: Skin keratinocytes were treated (or not) with a combination of ingredients (Lactobacillus plantarum extract, Withania somnifera root extract and Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract; “MIX”) in the presence or absence of stress (oxidative stress or pollution). The effects of the MIX adaptogen technology on (a) cellular resilience, (b) the regulation of cellular functions and (c) regeneration of skin were disclosed through expression proteomics and bioinformatics analyses first, and then through focused evaluations of protein carbonylation as a hallmark of oxidative stress’ deleterious impact and mitochondrial activity. (3) Results: The deleterious impact of stressors was evidenced, as well as the beneficial effects of the MIX through (a) mitochondrial activity preservation, (b) the “vigilance” of the NRF2 pathway activation, (c) NADPH production and protein homeostasis improvements, (d) preserving skin regeneration function and I the contrasting stress-induced oxidation (carbonylation) of mitochondrial and nuclear proteins. (4) Conclusions: The effects of the MIX on increasing cell adaptability and resilience under stress suggested a beneficial contribution in precision cosmetics and healthy human skin by acting as an adaptogen, an innovative approach that may be employed to improve resistance to harmful stress with a potential favourable impact on skin homeostasis.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060154
Authors: Boumbéwendin Gérard Josias Yaméogo Lydiane Sandra B. A. Ilboudo Nomtondo Amina Ouédraogo Mohamed Belem Ouéogo Nikiema Bertrand W. Goumbri Bavouma Charles Sombié Hermine Zimé-Diawara Elie Kabré Rasmané Semdé
The practice of voluntary depigmentation is still prevalent in Africa, with a wide range of lightening cosmetics used. Our objective was to research and quantify three regulated and/or prohibited depigmenting ingredients present in lightening cosmetics sold in Ouagadougou. Twenty-nine lightening cosmetic samples were collected from vendors and HPLC analysis was subsequently conducted to identify and measure the concentrations of hydroquinone, clobetasol propionate, and kojic acid. The presence of hydroquinone was indicated on the label of 13.79% of the products, while 51.72% contained it after analysis. Furthermore, none of the products mentioned a concentration of hydroquinone exceeding 2.00%, even though 27.58% of them contained high concentrations. For clobetasol propionate, its presence was stated on the labels of 13.79% of the products, while 31.03% contained it. One sample had a clobetasol content exceeding 0.05%, although none mentioned a concentration higher than this value. Finally, while 24.13% of the samples claimed to contain kojic acid, only 17.24% did. We also observed that 41.38% of the samples contained combinations of two depigmenting ingredients investigated, with a predominance of the hydroquinone + clobetasol propionate (27.38%). These results demonstrate that manufacturers’ declarations regarding the compositions of active ingredients in lightening cosmetics can sometimes be deceptive.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060153
Authors: Michela Ortoncelli Nicole Macagno Luca Mastorino Federica Gelato Irene Richiardi Giovanni Cavaliere Pietro Quaglino Simone Ribero
Introduction: There are few long-term effectiveness and safety data for dupilumab in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD). The aim of this study was to evaluate efficacy and safety of dupilumab for up to three years after treatment initiation. Materials and Methods: We collected data from patients ≥ 12 years with severe AD who started dupilumab at the Dermatology Clinic of the Turin University Hospital between December 2018 and October 2022. Clinic and patient reported outcomes were evaluated from baseline, up to 3 years (T9), every 4 months. Results: A total of 418 patients were observed. A progressive decrease in the meanEASI was observed: from 23.64 at baseline to 2.31 at T9. Similar trends were observed in patients’ reported outcomes. The achievement of EASI75 and EASI90 was observed in 75.58% of patients and 53.49%, respectively, at T1 (4 months), and in 92.55% and 80.85% at T9; DLQI 0/1 was achieved at T9 in 61.7%. Mean NRSpp ≤ 4 was achieved at T9 in 91.5% (86 out of 94 patients). The most common adverse event was conjunctivitis occurring in 13% of patients on average at each timepoint analyzed. Conclusions: Dupilumab proved to be effective and safe for the treatment of AD in clinical practice, up to 3 years.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060152
Authors: Julia Coco Luiza Silvério Érica Santos Ana Sueiro Janaína Ataide Ana Paiva-Santos Priscila Mazzola
Black pepper, a commonly utilized culinary condiment, holds significant importance in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicinal practices due to its various biological benefits, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. To amplify these attributes and enhance their efficacy in formulations, the utilization of nanocarriers presents a promising approach. Thus, the objective of this study was to obtain a pepper extract, evaluate its constituents, and encapsulate it in polymeric nanoparticles. The ethanol extract of the grains powder had a higher concentration of piperine and better antioxidant activity when compared to whole grains. Pepper extract encapsulation efficiency in terms of piperine concentration was 84.8 ± 3.5%, and a sustained and prolonged release profile was observed, as well as other studies in the literature using polycaprolactone (PCL). The presence of the extract did not change the instability index and the sedimentation velocity of the nanoparticles, as well as the polydispersity index and the zeta potential of nanoparticles. However, there was a difference in the mean size and concentration of particles. This study highlights the potential of PCL nanoparticles as a promising delivery system for black pepper extract, which could have various applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, maximizing the benefits of black pepper extract.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060151
Authors: Babatunji Emmanuel Oyinloye Emmanuel Ayodeji Agbebi Oluwaseun Emmanuel Agboola Chukwudi Sunday Ubah Olutunmise Victoria Owolabi Raphael Taiwo Aruleba Sunday Amos Onikanni Jerius Nkwuda Ejeje Basiru Olaitan Ajiboye Olaposi Idowu Omotuyi
Skin aging and wrinkle formation are processes that are largely influenced by the overexpression of enzymes like tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase. This study aimed to validate the skin anti-aging properties of phytochemicals from Peperomia pellucida (PP) as well as its attendant mechanism of action. Compounds previously characterized from PP were retrieved from the PubChem database and docked to the active sites of tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase using Schrödinger’s Maestro 11.5 and AutoDock tools to predict compounds with the best inhibitory potential to block these enzymes in preventing skin aging. It was observed that our hit compounds had favorable affinity and displayed key interactions at the active sites of these enzymes similar to those of the standards. With elastase, we observed key interactions with the amino acids in the S1 sub-pocket (especially ALA-181), Zn chelation, and histidine residues, which are key for inhibitory activity and ligand stability. The hit compounds showed H-bonds with the key amino acids of collagenase, including LEU-185 and ALA-186; phlobaphene and patuloside B were found to have better docking scores and inhibition constants (Ki) (−12.36 Kcal/mol, 0.87 nM and −12.06 Kcal/mol, 1.45 nM, respectively) when compared with those of the synthetic reference compound (−12.00 Kcal/mol, 1.67 nM). For tyrosinase, our hit compounds had both better docking scores and Ki values than kojic acid, with patuloside B and procyanidin having the best values of −9.43 Kcal/mol, 121.40 nM and −9.32 Kcal/mol, 193.48 nM, respectively (kojic acid = −8.19 Kcal/mol, 898.03 nM). Based on this study, we propose that acacetin, procyanidin, phlobaphene, patulosides A and B, palmitic acid, and hexahydroxydiphenic acid are responsible for the anti-aging effects of PP on the skin, and that they work synergistically through a multi-target inhibition of these enzymes.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060150
Authors: Linh Doan Nhu K. H. Vo Hanh T. M. Tran
Silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) produced by biological methods are safer for biomedical applications. Melanins were initially reported to facilitate AgNPs synthesis. Our research found that the stromata of some Xylaria species contained significant amounts of melanins, which had strong antioxidant and anti-ultraviolet activities without toxicity toward human skin cells. This study reported the characteristics and antibacterial activities against skin-infecting bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes) of AgNPs synthesized using crude melanin extracted from stromata of Xylaria sp. AgNPs were successfully synthesized by mixing the crude melanin solution with 0.1 M AgNO3 (25:1, v/v) and incubating for 3 h at 100 °C. The SEM found that the average size of the synthesized AgNPs was 18.85 ± 3.75 nm. The melanin-mediated AgNPs displayed significantly higher antibacterial activities against the tested acne-causing bacteria compared to the positive control (Erythromycin). Specifically, the melanin-mediated AgNPs inhibited 90% of S. aureus and C. acnes at 62.5 (µg/mL) and 15.625 (µg/mL), respectively, whereas it required erythromycin up to 4000 (µg/mL) to achieve the same activities. This research illustrated the feasibility of using crude melanin of Xylaria sp. for the direct synthesis of AgNPs and the potential use of the synthesized AgNPs for treating acne-causing bacteria (with further investigation needed).
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060149
Authors: Mutakin Nyi Mekar Saptarini Riezki Amalia Sri Adi Sumiwi Sandra Megantara Febrina Amelia Saputri Jutti Levita
In Indonesia, plants have been indigenously used to treat various diseases and as cosmetics. It is always challenging to explore the molecular interactions of phenolic compounds towards the levels of constituents that contribute to the biological activities of plants. This study aimed to select a plant of the Zingiberaceae family with the highest phenolics and flavonoids, the strongest radical scavenging activity, and the best interaction towards tyrosinase in terms of docking score and binding mode. Initially, the total phenolics and radical scavenging capacity of Zingiberaceae plants, namely, Hedychium coronarium, Curcuma zedoaria, Curcuma heyneana, and Alpinia galanga, were determined using the Folin–Ciocâlteu method and the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. The main phytoconstituents of plants with the highest phenolic levels were docked to the binding site of tyrosinase. Three anti-melanogenesis agents commonly used in cosmetics, namely, arbutin, hydroquinone, and kojic acid, were used as the standard. Our study revealed that all the tested plants contain polyphenolic compounds in the range of 17.92 (C. zedoaria rhizome extract) to 252.36 (A. galanga rhizome extract) mg GAE/g and have radical scavenging capacity, with IC50 values in the range of 66.67 (A. galanga rhizome extract) to 320.0 (C. heyneana rhizome extract) μg/mL. A molecular docking simulation demonstrated that four constituents, i.e., kaempferol, galangin, ethyl p-methoxycinnamate, and 6-gingerol, could occupy the binding site of tyrosinase with prominent affinity and interact with essential residues of the enzyme. This study confirms that Alpinia galanga possesses the potential to be further developed as a cosmetic with a radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. However, it may be interesting to carry out further studies of how the plant extract affects the melanogenesis signaling pathway.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060148
Authors: Lucy Mang Sung Thluai Varin Titapiwatanakun Warintorn Ruksiriwanich Korawinwich Boonpisuttinant Romchat Chutoprapat
The objective of this study was to develop effervescent cleansing tablets that can be dissolved and turned into liquid soap, which can be used for bathing or soaking the body. The asiatic-acid-loaded solid lipid microparticles (AASLMs) were prepared via the hot emulsification method followed by cold re-solidification and then freeze-dried to obtained dry powder. The physicochemical properties such as morphology and % entrapment efficiency (%EE) were evaluated. The results revealed that AASLMs have an irregular shape, and the %EE for the resulting AASLMs was 92.04 ± 3.43%. The tablets were manufactured via the direct compression technique. The compatibility test was conducted to ensure that the excipients are compatible with the active ingredient. The angle of repose, Carr’s index, and Hausner’s ratio were studied to evaluate the flowability of the powder blend before compression. The weight of each tablet was set to 1000 mg, and physicochemical characteristics, in vitro dissolution, ex vivo cleansing efficacy, and stability were evaluated. The results showed that the active ingredient was compatible with other excipients, as the results obtained from FTIR spectra indicated the absence of potential chemical interaction between the active ingredient and excipients used in this study. Additionally, all formulations had good flow properties. The effervescence times of selected formulations, F2 and F3, were <5 min, with favorable pH and hardness values. The friability values of all formulations exceeded 1% because the excipients used in effervescent tablets are very fragile. The release of asiatic acid (AA) from the tablets was dependent on the concentration of SLS. In an ex vivo test, it was discovered that the developed products F2 and F3 showed much more effective cleansing efficacy than water. Nevertheless, brown spots appeared in the tablets and the AA content was significantly decreased in both tested formulations after 3 months’ storage at 40 ± 2 °C/75% RH ± 5% RH. The stability study revealed that the developed products were not stable at high temperature and humidity. Therefore, it is recommended that the developed effervescent tablets are not stored at a high temperature.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060147
Authors: Kristine Heidemeyer S. Morteza Seyed Jafari Maurice A. Adatto Laurence Feldmeyer Nikhil Yawalkar Simon Bossart
The correction of leg telangiectasias is one of the most frequently performed interventions in the Western world. While sclerotherapy remains the gold standard of treatment, several studies have shown comparable efficacy and, in some situations, an even more favorable use of lasers as an alternative treatment option. The most frequent side effect of both treatment options is hyperpigmentation, which usually clears spontaneously in most cases but can be challenging to treat if it persists. The origin of this hyperpigmentation is not fully understood; small studies point to hemosiderin as the causative pigment, at least in post-sclerotherapy hyperpigmentation. More rare side effects of the treatment include ulcerations and scarring. Quality-switched (QS) Nd:YAG lasers have demonstrated good efficacy in treating hemosiderin depositions in the skin, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and atrophic scars. We present a case of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring after laser treatment of leg telangiectasia with a long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser that was successfully treated using a QS Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser. This case suggests the QS Nd:YAG laser as a possible treatment option in cases of hyperpigmentation with various origins, including hemosiderin and melanin, and scarring after laser treatment of leg telangiectasias.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10060146
Authors: Marta Grimaldi Giuseppe Micali Vincenzo Bettoli Giulia Odorici Concetta Potenza Maria Letizia Musumeci Sara Cacciapuoti Giulia Giovanardi Benedetta Agrifoglio Cristina Guerriero
Acne vulgaris was one of several diseases whose progression was significantly influenced psychologically by the rapid and protracted alteration of daily routines that occurred during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially for specific populations like adolescents. In order to assess their psychological impact and the relationship with the progression of acne vulgaris, this study aims to examine the quality of life, stress, anxiety, and depression of acne patients during the COVID-19 pandemic and their care. This observational, multicenter investigation was carried out in five dermatology clinics in Italy. Data were obtained via a remote telephone interview using questionnaires that were approved by a group of dermatologists and psychiatrists. Evaluations included demographic information, treatment status, disease progression, dietary habits, and employment activities. Some 178 acne vulgaris patients in various stages of systemic or topical medication were included in the study: 47 of 178 (26.4%) patients showed high scores on the HADS anxiety subscale, and 41 of 178 (23%) patients showed high scores on the HADS depression subscale. The Brief Resilience Scale (BRS) was used to measure resilience; 70 patients out of 178 (or 39.3%) showed low resilience (range: 1.00–2.99). In 32 out of 178 patients with PSS, high levels of stress were discovered (18%). Some 50 out of 178 patients experienced alterations in their way of life, including increased acne-related symptoms of relationship humiliation and constraints on everyday activities. Some 52 out of 178 patients (29.2%) said that they felt their condition had gotten worse over the study period. Our findings revealed a potential link between the exacerbation of acne and high levels of anxiety and depressive symptoms, as well as an elevated sense of stress and low or moderate levels of adaptability and resilience.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050145
Authors: Nichcha Nitthikan Pimporn Leelapornpisid Ornchuma Naksuriya Nutjeera Intasai Kanokwan Kiattisin
Mushrooms are edible fungi containing valuable nutrients. They provide attractive bio-active properties, which have confirmed anti-oxidants, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory properties. Mushrooms possess abundant natural polymers affecting skin hydration and acting as moisturizers supporting skin barrier function. In this study, cloud ear mushroom (Auricularia polytricha) water extract (CW) was produced as a natural polymer to evaluate a new film-forming spray (FFS) containing CW to increase skin hydration and protect transepidermal water loss. CW contained polysaccharides as 748.2 ± 0.02 mg glucose/g extract. CW significantly inhibited the secretion of IL-6 and TNF-α and enhanced skin hydration by increasing aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and filaggrin (FLG) in HaCaT cells. The FFS was formulated using CW, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, and glycerin. The selected formulation contained brown Agaricus bisporus (BE-FFS) evaluated physical appearance, spray angle, spray pattern, and in vitro skin permeation. The BE-FFS has a transparent thin film with suitable occlusive properties, drying time, and physical appearance. Afterward, in vitro skin permeation and human hydration property studies presented the long-lasting effects and provided safety and hydration potential after 4 weeks of use. Overall, all results indicate that the BE-FFS is a natural film-forming spray for skin hydration improvement.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050144
Authors: Massimo Milani Francesca Colombo
Topical retinoid treatment is considered a standard therapeutic approach for chrono and photo skin aging. Retinol (vitamin A) is the precursor of endogenous retinoids. A prospective, 12-week, randomized, parallel-group trial comparing the combination of vitamins’ oral supplementation (one capsule daily, 50.000 UI vitamin A and 50 mg vitamin E) and a 0.02% retinoic acid topical gel formulation (RG) applied in the evening (Group B) in comparison with the topical RG treatment alone (Group A) was conducted. A total of 60 subjects (men and women, aged >50 years, mean age 60 ± 8 years) with moderate-severe facial skin aging (Glogau score > 2) were enrolled after their written informed consent. Thirty participants were randomly assigned to Group A and 30 to Group B. The primary endpoint was the clinical evaluation of a Skin Aging Global Score (SAGS), at baseline, and after 6 and 12 weeks. A VISIA® (Canfield Scientific, Parsippany, NJ, USA)face sculptor analysis was performed in a subgroup of 20 subjects. Skin tolerability was evaluated in both groups at weeks 6 and 12. In comparison with the baseline, SAGS scores in both groups were reduced by 13% (Group A) and by 14% (Group B) after 6 weeks and by 22% (Group A) and by 27% (Group B) at week 12. At the end of the study, SAGS score absolute reduction in Group B was significantly greater (p < 0.01) in comparison with the absolute reduction in Group A. Both treatment regimens were well tolerated. The combination of medium-high doses of oral retinol supplementation (Vitamin A) and topical retinoic acid gel showed superior efficacy in terms of clinical improvement in comparison with the topical treatment alone in subjects with moderate/severe skin aging.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050143
Authors: Camille Pouchieu Line Pourtau David Gaudout Ilona Gille Kunyanatt Chalothorn Fabrice Perin
Oral formulations with natural plant-based extracts represent a safe and promising strategy for skin lightening and anti-dark-spot effects, especially in Asia. This study evaluated the effect of an oral formulation including polyphenol-rich extracts and vitamin C (Belight3TM) on in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity and investigated its skin lightening and anti-dark-spot effects in vivo. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the formulation was measured with spectrophotometry. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 58 healthy Asian males and females, aged 45–65. Skin color was measured at baseline, 6 weeks and 12 weeks with digital photographs. Color of dark spots was assessed with spectrophotometry. In vitro, the formulation showed a significant synergistic tyrosinase inhibitory activity of 85% compared to the control. In vivo, 12-week oral administration of the formulation significantly lightened the skin and was significantly better than the placebo. In addition, this formulation induced a slight and significant lightening effect of the dark spots after 6 and 12 weeks. Our findings suggest that the daily oral administration of Belight3TM during 12 weeks appears as an efficient and safe nutricosmetic to lighten the color of the facial skin and dark spots in Asian subjects.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050142
Authors: Helen Knaggs Edwin D. Lephart
Lifestyle health has been recognized as an evidence-based innovation that defines how everyday behaviors and routines influence the avoidance and therapy of illness and provides an important adjunctive component to overall health. Specifically, an approach with small changes over time can have a dramatic impact on the health and well-being of individuals not only, in general, but also can be applied to skin health. However, lifestyle health factors to improve skin well-being have not been discussed extensively and/or well promulgated. The narrative for this overview focuses on providing a summary for topic background information, but more importantly, presents four lifestyle factors that can improve dermal health [i.e., factor 1: nutrition—diet; factor 2: rest (sleep); factor 3: movement/physical exercise, and factor 4: social and community associations]. This was accomplished by identifying preceding journal reports/reviews covering especially the last five years (January 2018 to July 2023; 164 out of 205 references cited or 80%) using scientific search databases. The main conclusions of this overview encourage the concept that lifestyle health factors such as nutrition/diet, rest/sleep, movement/physical exercise, and community/social interactions support enhanced skin health and well-being with aging. Plus, social media interventions that aim to promote dietary, sleep and physical activity changes might be an application to improve skin health in the future.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050141
Authors: Patricia Fels Dirk W. Lachenmeier Pascal Hindelang Stephan G. Walch Birgit Gutsche
Tattooing has been an enduring form of body art since ancient times, but it carries inherent health risks, primarily due to the complex composition of tattoo inks. These inks consist of complex mixtures of various ingredients, including pigments, solvents, impurities and contaminants. This literature review aims to shed light on the organic and inorganic contaminants present in tattoo inks prior to the implementation of the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) regulation in 2022. This review shows that the most common contaminants are polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), with a concentration range of 0.005–201 mg/kg, mainly detected in black tattoo inks, and primary aromatic amines (PAAs), with a concentration range of 0.5–1100 mg/kg, and heavy metals such as lead (0.01–14.0 mg/kg) and chromium(VI) (0.16–4.09 mg/kg) which are detected in almost all tattoo inks. When compared to the new concentration limits outlined in REACH, it is clear that a significant part of these contaminants would be considered non-compliant. However, the results of the review are limited due to the lack of quantitative data on contaminants in tattoo inks. In addition, the future implementation of REACH is expected to lead to changes in the composition of tattoo inks, which will affect the presence of contaminants.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050140
Authors: Inês Brito Sara M. Ferreira Lúcia Santos
The excessive use of water and plastic packaging in the cosmetic industry imposes the need to develop sustainable alternatives. Moreover, agricultural by-products are reported in the literature to be rich in bioactive properties, namely high antioxidant capacity, suggesting their potential use in cosmetic formulations as substitutes for commercial additives. The aim of this work was the development of a sustainable formulation of solid shampoo, incorporating extracts from mango peel as antioxidants. The characterization of the extracts revealed the presence of several phenolic compounds and a strong antioxidant capacity. Six formulations of solid shampoo were produced by varying the quantity of the additives: tocopherol and butylated hydroxytoluene, used as positive controls, and mango peel (MP) extract. The antioxidant capacity assays demonstrated that the MP extract increased the antioxidant activity of the shampoos, in comparison to the positive controls and the stability tests revealed that the MP extract is a stable ingredient. Hence, it was concluded that the MP extract is a strong source of antioxidants with the potential to replace commercial antioxidants in cosmetics. Thus, it was possible to develop a value-added formulation of solid shampoo, eliminating the use of water and plastic for the packaging, and reusing waste from the food sector.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050139
Authors: Manu Dube Sema Dube
In spite of the significant progress towards sustainable cosmetics, mass-produced sustainable packaging has proven to be a challenge. The complexity of environmental, economic, social, technological, and policy considerations in conjunction with varying consumer behaviors and corporate goals can make it difficult to select an optimal strategy across heterogeneous supply chain components spread over the globe, and the cost and effort of developing, testing, and validating alternative strategies discourages empirical exploration of potential alternatives. This review discusses the challenges that can be expected in the context of broader sustainability efforts, as well as the experience gained in related fields, such as sustainable cosmetics and sustainable packaging, to identify potential pitfalls as well as promising trends towards the development of sustainable color cosmetics packaging. The findings suggest there may be little to be gained from attempting to induce customers to change their behavior, waiting for a significant increase in global recycling infrastructure, or expecting regulatory constraints to substitute for the lack of technological and business solutions. A research strategy is delineated towards the development of sustainable packaging that, with appropriate policy support, could minimize externalities and provide mass-produced packaging that is acceptable to both consumers and producers.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050137
Authors: Chaymae Bouchama Abdellah Zinedine João Miguel Rocha Noureddine Chadli Lahsen El Ghadraoui Rachida Chabir Sidi Mohammed Raoui Faouzi Errachidi
Turmeric and ginger, widely used rhizomes in culinary arts, have several beneficial biological activities, such as hypoglycemic, hepato-protective, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. This work investigated the effects of three phenolic extracts isolated from turmeric and ginger rhizomes on anti-inflammatory and healing properties using the solid–liquid extraction method. Wistar rats were used as a biological model. The anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated on induced edema in the rat’s hind paw using carrageenan (1%). Paw volume was measured at 0 min, 45 min, 3 h, and 5 h. Treatment with turmeric and ginger extracts, administered at a dose of 100 mg/kg, revealed a reduction in edema volume by 98.8%, 94.8%, and 98.3% using an aqueous extract of turmeric, ethanolic extract of turmeric, and methanolic extract of ginger, respectively. The healing activity parameters of induced burns on the rat’s dorsal region in nine groups (7 rats each) were monitored daily throughout the experiment’s duration. Results showed that the application of creams composed of petroleum jelly dispersing turmeric and ginger extracts to wounds at a dose of 100 mg/kg g induced complete healing after 19 days while the negative control was only 60% cured. On day 14, the aqueous, ethanolic, and methanolic turmeric extracts nearly resulted in complete tissue repair by 95.26%, 98.34%, and 87.39%, respectively. According to the chromatographic analysis (Sephadex G50 column), there is a variation in the molecular weight distribution of phenolic compounds (polymers, oligomers, and monomers) in the three studied extracts, which has a differential effect on the anti-inflammatory and wound healing activities of the extracts.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050138
Authors: Kyle S. Landry Elizabeth Young Timothy S. Avery Julia Gropman
The use of sunscreen is the most effective way to minimize sun damage to the skin. Excessive UV exposure is linked to an increased risk of melanoma and accelerated skin aging. Currently, approved UV filters fall into two categories: chemical- or mineral-based filters. Besides approved filters, there are numerous SPF-boosting additives that can be added to sunscreen products to enhance their efficacy. This manuscript shows the potential application of the novel SPF booster, Bacillus Lysate, developed from Bacillus pumilus PTA-126909, which was derived from research aboard the International Space Station. The addition of the 3.5%, 7%, or 10% Bacillus Lysate resulted in a 33%, 29%, and 22% boost in the SPF values of an SPF 30 sunscreen, respectively. The potential use of extremophiles and their byproducts, like the Bacillus Lysate presented here, may be a promising alternative SPF booster for the sunscreen industry.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050136
Authors: Janette Ivone Espinoza-Silva Ernesto Macias-Nevarez Christian Quintus Scheckhuber Mario Adrián Tienda-Vázquez
Eyelashes, in addition to fulfilling eye-protective functions, generate an aesthetic impact. Latanoprost is a prostaglandin analog, commonly used for the treatment of glaucoma and intraocular hypertension. The side effect reported most often is the stimulation of eyelash growth. The aim of this study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of latanoprost in inducing eyelash growth and darkening. Thirty healthy volunteers were recruited in a 3-month, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled pilot study. A transparent eyelash mascara was used as a vehicle. The placebo group (n = 15) received only the vehicle, and the latanoprost group (n = 15) received the vehicle + 0.005% latanoprost. The participants were asked to apply the latanoprost topically to the eyelashes while avoiding entry into the eye, daily at night. The latanoprost group showed a significant increase in eyelash length and color change, while the placebo group maintained eyelash length and color throughout the study. The intraocular pressures of all the participants were maintained in normal ranges (10–20 mmHg). Topical application of both the placebo and the latanoprost medications was well tolerated; none of the participants withdrew, generated side effects, or developed any ophthalmic pathology. In conclusion, latanoprost is effective and safe to stimulate the growth of eyelashes.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050135
Authors: Naoki Igari Ryo Ninomiya Satoshi Kawakami
The dietary bacillus natto productive protein (BNPP) is a functional food ingredient that contains Bacillopeptidase F. BNPP is reported to improve blood flow. Based on previous research, we investigated the effect of BNPP on the skin. In vitro tests were performed to evaluate BNPP for its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, elastase, and active oxygen (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)) radical scavenging activities. In addition, a small-scale, single-armed trial of 15 female participants aged 40–65 years were conducted to assess the effects on human skin of BNPP, administered 250 mg/day orally, for 6 weeks. The beneficial effects of BNPP on the skin were shown by the evaluation of the tyrosinase inhibitory (0.01% and 0.1%), elastase inhibitory (0.00001% to 0.001%), and DPPH radical scavenging (1% and 10%) activities. In addition, the results suggested that the oral administration of BNPP may significantly enhance skin rosiness and also achieve significant improvement in skin conditions, defined as complexion, skin elasticity and resilience, moist feeling, skin texture, cosmetic adhesion, fine lines, under-eye darkness, eye bags, sagging cheeks, and sagging mouth. Furthermore, to investigate the use of BNPP as cosmetics, a skin irritation study was conducted using a cultured human skin model. The results showed that BNPP is non-irritant. In addition, to confirm the stability of BNPP, the quality of BNPP at the time of manufacture and three years and six months after manufacture was examined. The results showed no quality problems. These results suggest that the BNPP could be used as cosmetic purposes.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050134
Authors: Iva Japundžić Massimo Bembić Bruno Špiljak Ena Parać Jelena Macan Liborija Lugović-Mihić
Work-related skin conditions, including work-related irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, rank as the second most prevalent among work-related diseases. The most commonly reported manifestation of these conditions is hand eczema, which develops due to exposure to various substances in the workplace. Understanding the origins and triggers of eczema and contact dermatitis enables healthcare professionals to educate themselves and their patients about effective preventive measures, such as avoiding specific irritants and allergens, using protective equipment, and maintaining proper skincare hygiene. Additionally, this knowledge facilitates the development of new recommendations to enhance skin protection in work-related settings, regulate the use of substances known to cause work-related skin diseases, and provide healthcare practitioners with the necessary training to recognize and manage these conditions. Given that approximately one in every five healthcare workers is considered to have hand eczema, the objective of this study was to review the existing literature regarding the characteristics of eczema in healthcare workers. Furthermore, this study aimed to comprehensively investigate environmental and constitutional factors (including years of work experience involving exposure to skin hazards, frequent glove use, regular handwashing and water contact, frequent use of disinfectants and detergents, and a history of previous allergies and atopic dermatitis) that influence the occurrence and progression of eczema.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050133
Authors: Oraphan Anurukvorakun Sarunpat Numnim
The goal of this research was to develop a reliable oil-controlling toner for facial skin with a natural product, Houttuynia cordata Thunb extract (HCE). The developed HCE facial toner showed high stability and had a high satisfaction level. Clinical studies revealed that the sebum value of the skin after using the developed HCE toner for eight weeks decreased (4.6-times lower), which was statistically significant (p-value < 0.05) when compared to the HCE-free toner. The sebum amount on the facial skin after using the HCE toner decreased by approximately two-times compared to the HCE-free toner. In addition, the skin moisture content increased statistically significantly (p-value < 0.05) from the eighth week of treatment compared to the HCE-free toner and was 1.5- and 1.4-times higher for the left and right cheeks, respectively. The average moisture content of the facial skin treated with the HCE toner increased by 2- and 1.4-times compared to the treatment with the HCE-free toner for the left and right cheeks, respectively. Consequently, the HCE toner had anti-sebum and moisturizing efficacy, and the increased reliability of the natural product meant that it could soon be a premium commercial product.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050132
Authors: Slobodanka Tamburic Jana Fröhlich Shivani Mistry Ludger Josef Fischer Tim Barbary Sylvie Bunyan Elisabeth Dufton
Energy input in emulsion manufacturing comprises thermal and mechanical energy, with thermal energy being predominant. In terms of raw material selection, there is a widely accepted belief that natural formulations are more “eco-friendly” than their standard (not natural) counterparts. The aim of this study was to compare the energy consumption and subsequent carbon footprint resulting from the production of two main emulsion types, each represented by its standard and natural variant and made by using different manufacturing processes (hot, hot-cold and cold). This resulted in six samples of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion types, respectively. Scale-down calculations were used to establish the required homogenisation time and speed of the laboratory homogeniser, necessary to achieve the same shear rates as the chosen industrial vessel. The resulting emulsions were characterised using rheological and textural analysis. The six emulsions within each emulsion type have exhibited sufficiently similar characteristics for the purpose of carbon footprint comparisons. Calculations were conducted to quantify the energy input of hot and hot-cold procedures, followed by cradle-to-gate life cycle analysis (LCA). Energy calculations demonstrated that the hot-cold manufacturing process saved approximately 82% (for O/W) and 86% (for W/O) of thermal energy in comparison to the hot process. LCA has shown that the effects of using natural instead of standard ingredients were negative, i.e., it led to a higher carbon footprint. However, it was dwarfed by the effect of the energy used, specifically thermal energy during manufacturing. This strongly indicates that the most efficient way for companies to reduce their carbon footprint is to use the hot-cold emulsification process.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050131
Authors: Kanwarpreet Karwal Ilya Mukovozov
The utilization of topical formulations containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) has garnered considerable attention. This review summarizes the effectiveness of the most common topical AHA formulations, including mechanisms of action and future research directions. AHAs have a dramatic impact on diverse skin conditions, enhancing texture and stimulating collagen synthesis. Uncertainties persist regarding optimal concentration, pH, and vehicle for maximum efficacy. Advancements in formulation technologies offer opportunities for AHA penetration and stability. Understanding mechanisms is vital for skincare optimization. The review covers AHAs, their concentrations, formulation considerations, safety measures, and future directions.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050130
Authors: Marie Meunier Emilie Chapuis Cyrille Jarrin Julia Brooks Heather Carolan Jean Tiguemounine Carole Lambert Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet Catherine Zanchetta Amandine Scandolera Romain Reynaud
Microbiome supplementation initially targeted the gut microbiota but has since been extended to the skin. A new category, psychobiotics, defined beneficial compounds with a positive action on microbiota, providing benefits to the host’s mental health. Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, proven to alleviate scalp dryness, was clinically evaluated on volunteers presenting dry scalp with flakes. A metagenomics study and sebum production analysis were performed, coupled to flakes scoring. The benefits of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on emotions were assessed through three neuroscientific methods. Through this study, we proved that the skin microbiota of dry scalp was imbalanced, with increased alpha diversity and decreased Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to oilier skin. After applying our ingredient for one month, microbiota was rebalanced with a decrease in alpha diversity and increase in Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to the initial profile. Microbiota rebalancing led to an increase in scalp sebum and decrease in dry flakes compared to the start of the study. This global rebalancing improved the emotional state of people with scalp dryness who expressed more positive emotions after treatment.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050129
Authors: Meagan Popp Steven Latta Betty Nguyen Colombina Vincenzi Antonella Tosti
Cannabinoid products have been studied in the treatment of various dermatologic conditions. We searched PubMed/MEDLINE for articles published before 1 February 2023 that described the use of cannabinoids in the management of hair, scalp, and skin conditions, identifying 18 original articles that encompassed 1090 patients who used various forms of cannabinoid products. Where specified, topical cannabidiol (CBD) was the most commonly utilized treatment (64.3%, 173/269), followed by oral dronabinol (14.4%, 39/269), oral lenabasum (14.1%, 38/269), and oral hempseed oil (5.9%, 16/269). Using the GRADE approach, we found moderate-quality evidence supporting the efficacy of cannabinoid products in managing atopic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, psoriasis, and systemic sclerosis and moderate-quality evidence supporting a lack of efficacy in treating trichotillomania. There was low to very low quality evidence supporting the efficacy of cannabinoid products in managing alopecia areata, epidermolysis bullosa, hyperhidrosis, seborrheic dermatitis, and pruritus. Our findings suggest that cannabinoids may have efficacy in managing symptoms of certain inflammatory dermatologic conditions. However, the evidence is still limited, and there is no standardized dosage or route of administration for these products. Large randomized controlled trials and further studies with standardized treatment regimens are necessary to better understand the safety and efficacy of cannabinoids.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050128
Authors: Anna Grodecka Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig Adrianna Dzidek Wiktoria Lis Dorota Cwalińska Weronika Kozioł Aneta Teległów Tomasz Pałka Anna Piotrowska
Obesity is a disease of civilization. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused an increase in its incidence; therefore, there is an increasing emphasis on programs aimed at improving body composition, often through physical activity. Various modifications to training interventions are being introduced, including the modification of the thermo-climatic conditions of the training. However, to date, whether such a modification is safe for the skin has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of a series of workouts in a hypoxic chamber on skin characteristics such as elasticity, hydration, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Women who were overweight or obese were invited to participate in the project. The workouts took place in a hypoxic chamber where conditions were mimicked at 2500 m, three times a week for a period of four weeks, for 60 min each. Finally, the results from 11 women in the study group and 9 in the control group were included in the analysis. Body composition analysis was performed, and venous blood was drawn (morphology and lipidogram). No statistically significant changes in skin firmness or the amount of TEWL were observed in the subjects. An increase in skin hydration on the hand was observed only after the first workout (p = 0.046), while skin hydration on the mandible did not change. A significant reduction in body weight (p = 0.042), BMI (p = 0.045), and TBW (p = 0.017) was indicated in the study group. The control group showed an increase in BMI (p = 0.045) and VFA (p = 0.042). There was no correlation between measured skin characteristics and body composition indices or the results of blood indices. A correlation was observed between TEWL and lipidogram results. Training under hypoxic conditions does not affect skin features in overweight and obese women. Even a significant reduction in TBW did not result in a decrease in hydration. It was also shown that the proper barrier function of the skin is closely dependent on the serum lipid profile.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050127
Authors: Simona Martinotti Gregorio Bonsignore Elia Ranzato
There is a long and interesting history between honeybees and humans. From the beginning, honey has been utilized not only as a sweetener, but also as an ointment and a drug to treat several diseases. Until the discovery of antibiotics, honey was a very popular product used to protect and preserve skin and promote wound healing, to counteract gastrointestinal pains and disorders of the oral cavity, and for other diseases. After the development of antibiotic resistance, honey again gained interest for its use in wound management. Subsequently, more recently, in vitro and in vivo studies have displayed antimicrobial, antioxidant, and other effects of honey and honeybee products, as well as protection of cardiovascular, respiratory, nervous, and gastrointestinal systems. Moreover, recent studies have demonstrated that beehive products are also able to influence the phenotype of skin cells, such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells, involved in correct wound healing. This review will characterize the great potential of honeybee products in the field of health and skin care, considering that honey is a virtually inexhaustible natural resource which people, as bees have been domesticated over the centuries, can freely access.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050126
Authors: Simone Amato Steven Paul Nisticò Giovanni Pellacani Stefania Guida Anthony Rossi Caterina Longo Enzo Berardesca Giovanni Cannarozzo
Auricular keloids pose significant aesthetic and functional challenges, and traditional treatments often fall short in addressing these issues. Our study presents an innovative combined approach of ablative CO2 and dye laser therapy for improved keloid management. This treatment protocol was applied to 15 patients with auricular keloids after an initial multispectral analysis to assess keloid composition. The laser sequence was tailored per patient based on this analysis. Evaluations using the Vancouver Scar Scale and Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale were carried out at baseline and at 3-week intervals post-treatment. The results showed a significant reduction in these scores at the final follow-up (p < 0.05), suggesting improvements in keloid color, texture, and pliability, with minimal adverse events. Additionally, no recurrence of keloids was observed. Our findings indicate that this novel methodology of multispectral analysis followed by tailored laser therapy may offer a safe and effective solution for auricular keloids, promising enhanced keloid treatment and prevention of recurrence. However, further investigations, including randomized controlled trials, are needed to confirm and optimize this treatment protocol.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050125
Authors: Kasemsan Atisakul Nisakorn Saewan
Oral malodor, often known as halitosis, is an irritating breath odor that originates in the mouth and can cause significant psychological and social distress. Chlorhexidine, a powerful antimicrobial agent effective against bacteria and fungi, has become the standard treatment for halitosis. However, it has drawbacks including altered taste perception, dry mouth, and more noticeable dental staining. The use of natural essential oils to avoid these unwanted effects has proven to be an attractive strategy. This study aims to evaluate the potential of four essential oils consisting of Ma-kwean fruit (Zanthoxylum limonella, MK), clove bud (Syzygium aromaticum, CV), star anise fruit (Illicium verum, SA) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum aromaticum, CM) for the purpose of combating bad breath by assessing their antibacterial efficacy against halitosis-associated bacteria (Streptococcus mutans and Solobacterium moorei). The hydro-distillation process was used to prepare the essential oils, which were obtained as yellowish to colorless liquids with yields of 6.58 ± 0.81, 12.21 ± 2.98, 4.29 ± 0.15 and 1.26 ± 0.09% for MK, CV, SA and CM, respectively. The terpenoid compounds terpinene-4-ol (47.04%), limonene (17.19%), sabinene (13.27%) and alpha-terpineol (6.05%) were found as the main components in MK essential oil, while phenylpropanoids were identified as the primary components of other essential oils, namely trans-cinnamaldehyde (83.60%), eugenol (83.59%) and anethol (90.58%) were identified as the primary components of CM, CV and SA essential oils, respectively. For the antibacterial properties, the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC) values were investigated. CM essential oil exhibited the greatest capacity to inhibit growth and eradicate S. mutans, with MIC and MBC values of 0.039%, followed by CV (MIC of 0.078% and MBC of 0.156%) and MK (MIC and MBC of 0.156%), whereas the MIC of SA was 1.250% without eradication. Both CM and CV essential oils demonstrated exceptional efficacy against S. moorei, with MIC and MBC values of 0.019% and 0.033%, respectively. Furthermore, the inhibition of S. moorei biofilm formation was investigated and we discovered that the lowest effective concentration necessary to eliminate the S. moorei biofilm was one quarter of the MIC for MK, CM and CV, while that for SA essential oil was half of the MIC. These encouraging results suggest that the incorporation of MK, CM and CV essential oils into oral care products could potentially enhance their efficacy in halitosis treatment.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050124
Authors: Sophia Letsiou Maria Trapali Despina Vougiouklaki Aliki Tsakni Dionysis Antonopoulos Dimitra Houhoula
Skin aging mainly occurs due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Extrinsic aging is a consequence of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Meanwhile, natural products exhibit protective properties against skin aging as well as photoaging. In this context, the research on natural anti-aging agents is greatly advanced, and in recent years, numerous plant-based products have been investigated. The aim of this study was to assess the antioxidant profile of Origanum dictamnus L. extract as well as its antiaging effects on 2D cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes under UVA irradiation to unravel the potential role of Origanum dictamnus L. in cosmetology. In an attempt to explore the antioxidant profile of the extract, we employed well-established enzymatic assays (DPPH, FRAP, ABTS, and TPC) and a phytochemical screening by LC/MS. According to our findings, the Origanum dictamnus L. extract possesses high scavenging activity (DPPH, ABTS), high phenolic content (TPC), and high Fe(III)-reduction activity (FRAP). Moreover, the LC/MS analysis revealed that the extract was rich in flavonoids, holding a high content of curcumin, kampferol, silymarin, cyanidin-3-glucoside, deosmin, rutin, and quercetin. To gain insight into the bioactivity of Origanum dictamnus L. extract in cell aging, the expression of various genes that are implicated in the skin aging process in keratinocytes and fibroblasts was studied. The gene expression analysis revealed that the extract increases cell proliferation in the cells exposed to UVA irradiation and concomitantly modulates the expression of genes related to the aging process in keratinocytes (KLK7, OCLN, GBA1) and fibroblasts (SIRT2, FOXO3, COL3A1) under the same conditions.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050123
Authors: Laura Aguilar Jonathan Hernández Luis Javier López-Giraldo Ronald Mercado
Most waxes used as cosmetic ingredients are derived from the petrochemical industry. A modern alternative to this complex synthesis approach is the hydrotreatment of palm oil; thus, the aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of incorporating a biowax derived from hydroprocessing of crude palm oil as a new natural cosmetic ingredient in facial cream and BB cream. Therefore, two water in oil (W/O) emulsions, one including pigments, with five different weight percentages were developed and subjected to further sensory evaluation by a trained panel to estimate the level of acceptance. Moreover, resistance to centrifugation, pH, spreadability, phase separation, viscosity and storage modulus were the parameters evaluated in a preliminary stability study using thermal stress. Sensory analysis showed that the highest level of acceptance was obtained between 3% and 9 wt% biowax. For both prototypes, increasing biowax percentage led to a greater effect on stickiness, the viscosity increased, and extensibility decreased. The formulations were able to maintain their pH. The best stability for BB cream was observed at 9%, since the changes in the properties were slight. For facial cream, the emulsion was more stable at intermediate biowax content. It was observed that biowax exhibits favorable characteristics as an emollient or thickening agent. Finally, the formulations with the best stability and sensory characteristics were obtained at 9 wt% biowax.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050122
Authors: Konstantinos Seretis Konstantina Papaioannou
Laser-assisted drug delivery (LADD) has gained prominence as a promising technique with the potential to enhance topical drug skin penetration and absorption. However, the effectiveness of various laser-assisted facial procedures remains unclear. This systematic review aimed to explore and summarize the evidence regarding the indications, clinical outcomes, and adverse effects of LADD performed on the face. Based on a predetermined protocol, an electronic search in MEDLINE, Scopus, the Cochrane Library, and CENTRAL electronic databases was conducted. Eligible studies comprised prospective controlled trials that explored the utility of laser-assisted techniques for topical medication facial application and reported on efficacy and/or safety. Secondary outcomes encompassed patient satisfaction. This review included 12 prospective controlled studies involving a total of 271 participants. LADD, through various laser types, topical medications, clinical protocols, and follow-up assessments, showed enhanced melasma, facial rejuvenation, scar, and periprocedural laser outcomes without increased risk of adverse effects. This review provides evidence that LADD is an effective and safe adjunct for various facial procedures. It also highlights the necessity for further high-quality studies with larger sample sizes, standardized treatment protocols, and evaluation of long-term outcomes and adverse effects in order to elucidate the potential of laser-assisted drug delivery.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050121
Authors: Kanyanat Theeraraksakul Kittitat Jaengwang Kiattawee Choowongkomon Lueacha Tabtimmai
Phallus indusiatus, or bamboo mushroom, has been reported for its nutraceutical properties, while its cosmeceutical properties remain unclear. In this study, we conducted extractions of whole, fresh P. indusiatus using both aqueous and ethanolic methods. Among the extracts, ultrasonic-assisted extraction method with DI showed the highest antioxidant activity compared to the others. For cosmeceutical assessment, we evaluated the extracts’ inhibitory effects against ECM-degrading enzymes and found that they exhibited a modest inhibitory effect of approximately 50%. Remarkably, ultrasonic-assisted extraction with DI demonstrated promising cosmeceutical properties. Additionally, pressure-assisted extraction with DI showed a potentially protective effect against H2O2-induced DNA damage. To investigate the anti-melanogenic effect on MNT-1 cells, we treated them with the extracts and observed a significant decrease in cellular tyrosinase activity under α-MSH stimulation. This resulted in a relative reduction in melanin content. Notably, autoclaving extraction exhibited a significantly greater anti-melanogenic effect than the other extracts at the lowest concentration tested. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated a reduction in NO production under LPS-induced inflammation. Hot water extraction with DI and ethanol exhibited a stronger anti-inflammatory effect compared to diclofenac, without any cytotoxicity. These findings highlight the hidden cosmeceutical properties of P. indusiatus and suggest its potential use as a bioactive ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050120
Authors: Foteini Biskanaki Paraskevi Kalofiri Niki Tertipi Eleni Sfyri Eleni Andreou Vasiliki Kefala Efstathios Rallis
Food technology, health, nutrition, dermatology, and aesthetics have focused on colorless carotenoids. Carotenoids are readily bioavailable and have demonstrated various health-promoting actions. This article reviews the recent literature concerning carotenoids with the aim to systematize the scattered knowledge on carotenoids and aesthetics. The applications of carotenoids in health-promoting and nutrient products and their potential health effects are discussed. The carotenoids, particularly phytoene and phytofluene, have the unique ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation. Their distinct structures and properties, oxidation sensitivity, stiffness, aggregation tendency, and even fluorescence in the case of phytofluene, contribute to their potential benefits. A diet rich in carotenoid-containing products can positively impact skin health, overall well-being, and the prevention of various diseases. Future studies should focus on generating more data about phytoene and phytofluene levels in the skin to accurately assess skin carotenoid status. This expanding area of research holds promise for the development of novel applications in the fields of health and cosmetics.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050119
Authors: Ante Sucic Ana Seselja Perisin Tomislav Zuvela Dario Leskur Doris Rusic Darko Modun Josipa Bukic
Botulinum toxin use has become the most commonly performed aesthetic procedure among individuals of all age groups, encompassing both women and men. Randomized controlled trials (RCTs) provide the highest level of evidence and quality reporting of their abstracts plays a significant role for health professionals, influencing their decision-making in patient management. Therefore, our study aimed to assess the reporting quality of published RCT abstracts for botulinum toxin aesthetic use in the head area. The CONSORT-A checklist with 17 items was used to assess the quality of reporting. All available RCT abstracts (N = 191) found by searching the Medline database that were published up until June 2023 were included in this study. The average reporting rate was 52.9%. General items were inadequately reported (30.9%), with few abstracts describing the trial design. The methods section was better reported (62.0%), with interventions, objectives, and outcomes properly reported in over 97.5% abstracts. The results section (56.9%) demonstrated good reporting of randomized participant numbers but limited reporting of primary outcomes and harms. None of the abstracts reported funding sources or randomization information. To enhance the transparency and reliability of RCT results, abstracts should adhere more rigorously to the CONSORT-A guidelines. Improved reporting in abstracts can facilitate evidence-based decision-making in everyday practice of medical professionals in the field of aesthetic medicine.
]]>Cosmetics doi: 10.3390/cosmetics10050118
Authors: Adela Manea Delia Perju Andra Tămaș
This paper reviews research on some cosmetic creams considered “distributed parameters systems” and on the experimental-computational mathematical models that have been determined for them. The determined models characterize the cosmetic creams in all stages of the manufacturing process, starting with the development of recipes, the description of raw materials, manufacturing technologies, and the determination of the physico-chemical and microbiological indicators that most strongly influence their quality. This approach suggests the possibility of performing optimization operations, specifically sensitivity analyses, which may lead to the identification of best quality indicators and to the amelioration of negative effects related to disturbance sizes (temperature, pressure, humidity etc.). Five emulsions with different compositions, prepared in vitro according to our own recipes, using raw materials and preparation methods approved for cosmetic products, were studied. Through specific physico-chemical and microbiological analyses, we obtained databases that were processed computationally. The resulting mathematical models, in the form of both graphs and equations, led to important conclusions regarding obtaining high quality in the studied creams and to the confirmation of the usefulness of applying the principles of Systems Theory to the study of cosmetic products.
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