Cosmetics

43 pages, 6120 KB

Open AccessReview

Exploring the Role of Antioxidants in Skin Whitening and Brightening Products: A Comprehensive Updated Review of Ingredients, Mechanisms, Benefits, and Potential Risks

by Saeid Mezail Mawazi, Nur Allyana Awadah Binti Abd Ghani and Faiz Ahmed Shaikh

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 206; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040206 - 13 Aug 2026

Abstract

There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions for skin lightening/brightening due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers’ preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial [...] Read more.

There is a rapidly rising demand for cosmeceutical solutions for skin lightening/brightening due to the growing need for dermatologic applications and consumers’ preference to enhance the brightness of skin. Traditionally, the main ingredients for developing dermatological products were the potentially harmful and controversial hydroquinone compounds; however, in recent years, the research field experienced a transition towards safer antioxidant-based agents. The present review analyzes the application and use of antioxidants in modern cosmetics as an innovative approach, and the chemical and biological mechanisms of their functions that could revolutionize the industrial applications. The most effective ones include competitive inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme, pheomelanin switch through the help of glutathione, protection from reactive oxygen species (ROS) in order to inhibit ultraviolet (UV)-stimulated production of melanin, as well as prevention of the migration of melanosomes using niacinamide. The review identifies and analyzes several components used as ingredients, such as vitamins C, Niacinamide, vitamin E, licorice root, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), or resveratrol, among many more. In spite of their high efficiency, there are numerous problems associated with the instability, dermal irritation, and absorption of pure antioxidants. Finally, the legal framework developed by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and European Union (EU), potential risks like pro-oxidation damage, and future perspectives such as personalized skincare via machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) are discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 1088 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ethanolic Extract of Caulerpa racemosa Inhibits Melanogenesis via Downregulation of Microphthalmia-Associated Transcription Factor and Activation of Extracellular Signal-Regulated Kinase

by Ratchanon Sukprasert, Kant Sangpairoj, Pornpun Vivithanaporn, Nongnuch Luangpon, Waranurin Yisarakun, Montakan Tamtin, Witoon Khawsuk and Tanapan Siangcham

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040205 - 13 Aug 2026

Abstract

The application of natural bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical products, particularly as skin-lightening agents, has received increasing interest. Caulerpa racemosa, a green macroalga of the Chlorophyta division, contains beneficial nutrients that are applicable as food and cosmeceutical ingredients. This study investigated the in [...] Read more.

The application of natural bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical products, particularly as skin-lightening agents, has received increasing interest. Caulerpa racemosa, a green macroalga of the Chlorophyta division, contains beneficial nutrients that are applicable as food and cosmeceutical ingredients. This study investigated the in vitro effect of the ethanolic extract of C. racemosa (CR) on regulation of melanogenic-related signaling and gene expression in SK-MEL-5 human melanoma-derived cells. Identification of bioactive components revealed that catechin, rutin, and quercetin as flavonoid contents were found in CR extract, analyzed using HPLC. The expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) signaling molecules, and melanogenic-related molecules were analyzed via Western blotting and qPCR. The CR extract treatment applied to SK-MEL-5 cells decreased the MITF protein expression level, which correlated with increased pERK expression, and no cytotoxic effect was observed. The subsequent treatment reduced the expression of melanogenesis-related genes (TYR, TYRP1, MC1R, and DCT) that were downstream targets of MITF. This study provides preliminary evidence that CR extract may modulate melanogenesis-related signaling. However, the specific bioactive compounds responsible for the observed effects remain to be identified, as the extract contains a complex mixture of phytochemicals. Further fractionation studies are needed to pinpoint the active constituents. The variability of extract composition due to seasonal and geographical factors should be considered for future standardization. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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13 pages, 902 KB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetic Peptides as Adjunctive Skincare in Aesthetic Medicine: From Peri-Procedural Care to Long-Term Outcome Optimization

by Yuanmeng Yang and Zhenfeng Liu

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 204; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040204 - 13 Aug 2026

Abstract

Non-surgical aesthetic procedures, including energy-based devices and injectable therapies, have become increasingly popular worldwide, creating distinct skincare needs for peri-procedural recovery and long-term post-procedure maintenance. This narrative review summarizes current evidence on cosmetic peptides as adjunctive skincare across both phases. A structured literature [...] Read more.

Non-surgical aesthetic procedures, including energy-based devices and injectable therapies, have become increasingly popular worldwide, creating distinct skincare needs for peri-procedural recovery and long-term post-procedure maintenance. This narrative review summarizes current evidence on cosmetic peptides as adjunctive skincare across both phases. A structured literature search was conducted in PubMed, Embase, and Google Scholar, only including peptides with an International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) designation and defined amino acid sequences. Available clinical evidence suggests potential roles for cosmetic peptides in two interconnected scenarios. In peri-procedural care—spanning pre-procedure conditioning through post-procedure recovery—signal peptides, carrier peptides, and antimicrobial peptides have demonstrated benefits in accelerating healing and reducing erythema, edema, and bruising. As a long-term adjuvant strategy, signal peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, and whitening peptides may contribute to collagen remodeling, wrinkle reduction, and pigment control. Although enzyme-inhibiting peptides currently lack direct clinical evidence, their proposed mechanisms suggest potential for future investigation. However, the evidence remains limited by small sample sizes, short follow-up periods, heterogeneous peptide formulations and treatment protocols, and frequent use of proprietary multi-ingredient products. Overall, cosmetic peptides represent a potential adjunctive approach in aesthetic medicine. Larger, well-designed randomized controlled trials are needed to establish their clinical value and long-term safety. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 4538 KB

Open AccessArticle

Early Detection of Lamellar Gel Network Instability in Cosmetic Emulsions Using Rheology, Laser Diffraction, and AI-Assisted Microscopy

by Axel Viton, Raphaël Coatmeur, Béatrice Anthouard, Magalie Claeys-Bruno, Christophe Sauzet and Philippe Piccerelle

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 203; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040203 - 12 Aug 2026

Abstract

Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates [...] Read more.

Standard ISO testing of cosmetic emulsions offers limited insight into the microstructural mechanisms governing long-term stability. We hypothesize that a single weight-percent increase in emulsifier concentration is sufficient to determine, through its effect on inter-bilayer junction connectivity, whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails. To test this, we apply a two-tier strategy combining ISO/TR 18811 testing and Turbiscan turbidimetry with rheology, laser diffraction, and AI-assisted polarized light microscopy, on two oil-in-water emulsions structured by a lamellar gel network and stabilized by Cetearyl Alcohol/Cetearyl Glucoside at 2 wt% (Emulsion A) and 3 wt% (Emulsion B) over 30 days of storage. First-tier testing distinguished formulations only at Day 30; Turbiscan index values (2.64, 1.78) stayed below threshold throughout. The second-tier protocol resolved structural divergence from Day 8 to 15, two to three weeks earlier. In Emulsion A, a transient birefringent fraction (51.5% at Day 8) preceded network disruption, droplet coalescence, and a drift of the loss tangent toward more liquid-like values. In Emulsion B, birefringence expanded to 98.4% by Day 30 and the loss tangent declined to 0.325. These results indicate that a 1 wt% difference in emulsifier concentration, within a range of industrial use, is sufficient to determine whether the lamellar gel network consolidates or fails, and that combining rheology, laser diffraction and AI-assisted microscopy resolves this divergence two to three weeks before conventional ISO criteria are met. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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Graphical abstract

1 pages, 120 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Fedotcheva, T.A.; Shimanovsky, N.L. Dehydroepiandrosterone and Skin: Sex- and Age-Related Mechanisms of Action. Cosmetics 2026, 13, 129

by Tatiana A. Fedotcheva and Nikolay L. Shimanovsky

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 202; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040202 - 12 Aug 2026

Abstract

There was an error in the original publication [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Aging and Dermatosis)

30 pages, 22870 KB

Open AccessArticle

Preliminary Clinical and Mechanistic Evaluation of Traditional Thai Herbal Cream Containing Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa for Eczema and Psoriasis

by Julalak Chorachoo Ontong, Chatchai Wattanapiromsakul, Charassri Nualsri, Sudarshan Singh, Popat Mohite, Benjaporn Bourchum, Meadeena Kobmang, Pinyada Subyad, Thanyaphon Pusawiro, Supatina Khan, Nattanon Bunrodchu, Narapat Aunruean, Apiwat Artkaew, Anon Makklay and Thanyaluck Siriyong

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 201; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040201 - 11 Aug 2026

Abstract

Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa have traditionally been used for the management of skin disorders; however, scientific evidence supporting their combined topical use in eczema and psoriasis remains limited. To characterize the phytochemical composition, evaluate the biological activities, investigate potential molecular mechanisms, and [...] Read more.

Cannabis sativa and Curcuma longa have traditionally been used for the management of skin disorders; however, scientific evidence supporting their combined topical use in eczema and psoriasis remains limited. To characterize the phytochemical composition, evaluate the biological activities, investigate potential molecular mechanisms, and assess the preliminary clinical performance of a topical herbal cream containing C. sativa and C. longa extracts. Ethanolic extracts were analyzed using UHPLC and GC-MS. Antioxidant, antibacterial, cytotoxicity, and nitric oxide inhibition assays were performed. Molecular docking studies were conducted against inflammation-related protein targets. A pilot clinical study evaluated the effects of the herbal cream in patients with eczema and psoriasis over four weeks using EASI, PASI, and DLQI scores. The herbal formulation contained cannabinoids, terpenoids, and curcuminoids with measurable antioxidant activity. The extract exhibited low cytotoxicity and moderate inhibition of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated macrophages (0.0001–0.1 mg/mL). Docking analyses suggested favorable interactions between selected phytochemicals and inflammation-associated targets. Preliminary clinical observations indicated improvements in EASI (from 4.11 ± 3.14 to 1.28 ± 1.46), PASI (from 39 to 16.2), and DLQI (from 6.25 ± 5.25 to 1.00 ± 0.82) scores among study completers. The herbal cream demonstrated antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and showed preliminary clinical potential in inflammatory skin disorders. Larger controlled clinical studies are required to confirm efficacy and establish therapeutic value. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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22 pages, 4880 KB

Open AccessArticle

by Magdalena Bîrsan, Iulia-Alexandra Roman, Cătălina-Daniela Stan, Ana-Caterina Cristofor, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Adriana Ciurba and Carmen-Valerica Ripa

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040200 - 10 Aug 2026

Abstract

Objective: Commercial lip balm sticks are often selected based on brand popularity and marketing claims, which may not reflect formulation quality or mechanical reliability. This study investigated whether lipid matrix organization better predicts mechanical integrity and consumer acceptance than commercial positioning and [...] Read more.

Objective: Commercial lip balm sticks are often selected based on brand popularity and marketing claims, which may not reflect formulation quality or mechanical reliability. This study investigated whether lipid matrix organization better predicts mechanical integrity and consumer acceptance than commercial positioning and introduced the Structural Lipid Architecture (SLA) concept. Materials and Methods: Seven best-selling commercial lip balm sticks were evaluated through consumer research, instrumental texture analysis, and compositional assessment. A validated questionnaire completed by 234 participants assessed product performance, fracture perception, purchasing behaviour, and willingness to pay for improved quality. Mechanical properties were determined using a Brookfield CT3 Texture Analyzer, while INCI compositions were analysed for structural wax diversity, lipid co-structuring agents, and melting point distribution within the SLA framework. Results: Overall, 76.9% of respondents reported having previously experienced stick fracture or deformation, while 94.4% expressed willingness to pay more for products offering superior performance and safety. Product fracture was strongly associated with reduced confidence in product quality (ρ = 0.672, p < 0.0001) and lower repurchase intention (ρ = 0.725, p < 0.0001). Hardness strongly correlated with mechanical work (r = 0.950, p = 0.001). Formulations combining complementary natural, mineral, and/or synthetic waxes with lipid co-structuring agents exhibited superior structural cohesion and fracture resistance, whereas simplified wax systems showed progressive mechanical failure. Conclusions: Best-selling status did not consistently predict superior mechanical performance. Optimized combinations of complementary structural waxes were key determinants of product integrity and fracture resistance. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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26 pages, 10520 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of Microemulsion-Based Makeup Remover from Hemp Seed Oil

by Wansada Suttimas, Surapol Natakankitkul and Mathukorn Sainakham

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 199; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040199 - 7 Aug 2026

Abstract

The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. [...] Read more.

The growing demand for natural, skin-compatible cosmetic cleansers has driven interest in oil-based systems that can effectively remove waterproof cosmetics while remaining physicochemically stable. This study characterized hemp seed oil and evaluated it as a component of a water-in-oil (W/O) microemulsion makeup remover. Hemp seed oil showed good oxidative stability (peroxide value = 1.87 ± 0.23 mEq/kg). It contained 0.134 ± 0.01 mg gallic acid equivalents/g of oil weight of phenolic compounds. The oil was rich in linoleic and α-linolenic acids and contained α-tocopherol. Microemulsions were prepared by combining hemp seed oil with castor oil (C:H) or sunflower oil (S:H) at three oil ratios and four surfactant HLB values (4.3–12). From 72 candidate formulations, only sunflower oil:hemp seed oil systems in the ratio of 3:7 and HLB of 9.5 showed the best overall balance of stability, maintaining droplet size, low PDI, and consistent viscosity/turbidity over 2 months of storage and heating–cooling cycle testing. This formulation also exhibited cleansing efficiency (ΔE = 9.64), which was slightly lower than a commercial cleansing oil (ΔE = 9.74). These results illustrate the potential of hemp seed oil to be developed into a stable, effective W/O microemulsion cleansing system for cosmetic application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)

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18 pages, 2015 KB

Open AccessArticle

Preconditioning Human Skin Fibroblasts with 505 nm Blue–Green Light Reduces UVB-Induced Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimers

by Nana Kanda, Sayuri Furuno, Hikaru Iwata, Nozomi Suga, Megumi Oya, Shota Suzuki, Kentaro Yamazaki and Ichiro Yajima

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 198; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040198 - 4 Aug 2026

Abstract

Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm², 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm²) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm²). At 505 nm, [...] Read more.

Visible-light preconditioning may complement sunscreen use by enhancing intrinsic DNA damage responses. We pre-irradiated Hs27 human dermal fibroblasts with 505 nm blue–green light (5.0 mW/cm², 3–10 min; 0.9–3.0 J/cm²) before UVB irradiation (20 mJ/cm²). At 505 nm, the residual cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) burden measured 24 h after UVB was reduced when UVB followed immediately or after 3–24 h (with residual CPDs falling to approximately 67% of the UVB-alone level—an approximately 33% reduction—at the most effective 3.0 J/cm², 24 h condition), whereas protection was lost by 48 h. Under the 0 h interval condition, CPDs were also quantified immediately after UVB to compare the early CPD signal with the 24 h residual endpoint; all three visible wavelengths (505, 470 and 630 nm) lowered the immediate post-UVB signal, but only 505 nm preconditioning sustained the protective effect at the 24 h endpoint. Blue light (470 nm) produced a limited delayed benefit, whereas red light (630 nm) did not confer consistent protection and increased the residual CPD burden under selected conditions. Non-toxic 505 nm exposure primed an amplified NRF2/ARE response to subsequent UVB; XPC and XPD mRNAs rose at 2–6 h, while XPA and XPB declined early. Together, these findings support further evaluation of 505 nm blue–green light as a proof-of-concept, device-oriented strategy for timed photoprotection against UVB-induced photoaging; because these findings were obtained in a single dermal fibroblast model, they will require validation in keratinocytes and more complex skin systems before any practical application. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 2345 KB

Open AccessReview

Biotics for Acne-Prone Skin and Scalp Disorders: A Scoping Review

by Gisele Mara Silva Gonçalves

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 197; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040197 - 4 Aug 2026

Abstract

Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris [...] Read more.

Background/Objectives: The skin microbiome maintains barrier integrity, immune homeostasis, and pathogen defense; dysbiosis contributes to acne vulgaris, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and alopecia. This scoping review critically appraised evidence on prebiotics, probiotics, synbiotics, postbiotics, and paraprobiotics in dermo-cosmetics for acne vulgaris and scalp disorders. Methods: A scoping search (2006–2026) covered SciELO, PubMed/PMC, Google Scholar, CAPES Portal, Scopus, Heliyon, Frontiers, Nature, Wiley, and MDPI, following PRISMA 2020 guidelines. Results: Of 1665 records, 66 were included. For acne, effective prebiotics included blackcurrant, grape seed, ginseng, trehalose, and glucomannan hydrolysate; effective probiotic strains included Streptococcus thermophilus, Bifidobacterium longum, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Streptococcus salivarius. A synbiotic (B. breve BR03, Lacticaseibacillus casei LC03, Ligilactobacillus salivarius LS03) reduced inflammatory lesions by 56.67% in an 8-week RCT (n = 114). For scalp disorders, oral Lacticaseibacillus paracasei ST11 reduced dandruff by 70% vs. 23% (placebo); Lactiplantibacillus plantarum TCI999 increased hair root diameter (n = 50, 12 weeks); a Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus plus Bifidobacterium longum mixture improved alopecia areata by 56% vs. 30% (n = 26, 24 weeks). Conclusions: Biotic dermo-cosmetics can modulate the cutaneous microbiome and attenuate inflammation in acne and scalp disorders, with strongest evidence for multi-strain/synbiotic formulations. Formulation stability, strain specificity, regulatory heterogeneity, and lack of standardized microbiological endpoints remain key challenges; larger standardized RCTs with active comparators are needed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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16 pages, 10097 KB

Open AccessArticle

Trehalose in an Emulsion-Based Carrier: Effects on Skin Hydration and Transepidermal Water Loss

by Anna Czajkowska-Kośnik, Paulina Perkowska and Katarzyna Winnicka

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040196 - 4 Aug 2026

Abstract

Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of [...] Read more.

Dry skin and skin barrier dysfunction are common dermatological problems associated with increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced stratum corneum hydration. Among moisturizing agents, trehalose—a naturally occurring disaccharide—has attracted considerable attention due to its moisturizing, protective, and stabilizing properties. The aim of this study was to develop dermatological emulsions with desirable physicochemical, rheological, mechanical, adhesive, and moisturizing properties for dry skin care. Six placebo emulsions, differing in emulsifier and oil compositions, were prepared and evaluated for stability, pH, viscosity, rheological behavior, texture, adhesion, and spreadability. Based on the results obtained, the formulation containing avocado oil and Olivem 1000 was selected as the optimal base for incorporating trehalose at concentrations of 1%, 2.5%, and 5%. The formulations were further evaluated in vivo using TEWL and corneometry measurements. All emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian shear-thinning and thixotropic properties. Regular application of the emulsions reduced TEWL by approximately 33%, while skin hydration increased up to 102%. However, discontinuation of the emulsion application resulted in decreased skin hydration and increased TEWL, suggesting the need for constant use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

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23 pages, 1833 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ascorbic Acid and Its Hydrophilic Derivatives in Commercial Cosmetics: A Cross-Sectional Study of Their Quality Control and Stability

by Žane Temova Rakuša and Robert Roškar

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 195; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040195 - 2 Aug 2026

Abstract

Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed [...] Read more.

Ascorbic acid and its hydrophilic derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, are wide used active ingredients in cosmetics, with concentrations increasingly declared on product labels. Since such products are not subject to routine quality control, this study aimed to evaluate the content-related quality and stability of a comprehensive sample of commercial cosmetics. For this purpose, a selective HPLC-UV analytical method for their simultaneous determination was developed, validated, and applied to 41 products. The analysis revealed 0–31.7% (m/m) contents and inappropriate labeling in 22% of the products, including the absence and replacement of the labeled vitamin C form. Over half (57%) of the determined contents corresponded to the labels, which was claimed for 31 products, while the remaining contents were considerably lower (<80%). The stability study, performed on selected cosmetics and standard solutions under ambient and elevated temperatures, demonstrated instability, which could account for their inadequate content. Thus, the instability was found to be temperature-dependent and most pronounced for ascorbic acid, whereas the product price did not show a clear correlation with greater content or stability. Overall, these results highlight the need for proper quality control and stricter cosmetics regulation as well as formulation design to achieve sufficient stabilization, as observed in certain products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2054 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Characterization and In Vitro Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of a Traditional Hypericum perforatum L. Olive Oil Macerate for Cosmetic Applications

by Melike Akgün, Ömerül Faruk Tavlı, Orçun Çınar, Alevcan Kaplan, Mehmet Boğa, Ercan Çınar, Serpil Demirci Kayıran and Esra Eroğlu Özkan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 194; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040194 - 31 Jul 2026

Abstract

Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared [...] Read more.

Hypericum perforatum L. olive-oil macerate is a traditional topical remedy whose wound-healing efficacy is well documented, yet the phytochemical and mechanistic basis of its cosmetic-relevant activity remains poorly defined. This study provides an integrated experimental and in silico characterization of a traditionally prepared macerate of defined origin. The fatty acid composition, oxidative-stability indices, total phenolic and flavonoid contents, naphthodianthrone level, antioxidant capacity, and tyrosinase inhibition were determined, and the principal constituents were examined by molecular docking and in silico skin-permeation and toxicity profiling. The olive-oil matrix was oleic acid-dominated (73.9%) and oxidatively stable (iodine value 86.0; oxidizability index, COX, 1.84), while the macerate showed modest phenolic (

36.84 μ

g pyrocatechol equivalents, PCE/mg) and naphthodianthrone (0.044 mg/mL hypericin equivalents) contents. It showed limited antioxidant activity but moderate tyrosinase inhibition (38.75% at

200 μ

g/mL). Docking revealed that, despite high affinity scores, the naphthodianthrones lay 7–9 Å from the catalytic copper centre (an artefact of the scoring function), whereas fatty acids accessed the active site more closely, implicating the matrix in the observed activity. In silico profiling indicated that the photoactive naphthodianthrones are largely retained at the skin surface. These findings link this centuries-old preparation to a mechanistically informed understanding of its cosmetic potential. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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15 pages, 659 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Screening and Antibacterial Activity of Jatropha multifida L. (Coral Bush) Leaf Extract-Based Soap Against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli

by Trixie Joy B. Gano and Ariel M. Alcones

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 193; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040193 - 29 Jul 2026

Abstract

The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v [...] Read more.

The development of bio-based hygiene products offers a sustainable approach to managing infectious topical pathogens while reducing dependence on synthetic antimicrobials. This study evaluated the antibacterial efficacy of soap formulated with Jatropha multifida leaf ethanolic extract (25%, 50%, and 75% v/v) against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Antibacterial activity was determined using the Kirby–Bauer disk diffusion method alongside positive and negative controls. All extract-infused soap formulations exhibited distinct, measurable zones of inhibition (ZOI) ranging from 16.33 mm to 17.67 mm for S. aureus and 16.33 mm to 18.00 mm for E. coli, consistently achieving an “Active” qualitative classification. A one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) demonstrated highly significant differences across the entire dataset (p < 0.001). However, Tukey’s Honestly Significant Difference (HSD) post hoc test revealed no statistically significant differences in antibacterial performance among the 25%, 50%, and 75% concentrations (p > 0.05). This indicates a performance plateau caused by agar diffusion limits or micellar entrapment within the soap base. J. multifida maintains antibacterial integrity within a soap matrix, offering a viable plant-based antiseptic alternative against S. aureus and E. coli. Formulating at a 25% concentration represents the optimal commercial choice, maximizing antimicrobial performance while minimizing raw material costs. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 2033 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Triple-Helical Collagen Gel Modulates Electrophysiological Parameters in Isolated Rabbit Skin

by Dominika Dąbrowska-Wisłocka, Aleksandra Kalinoska, Olga Zavyalova, Beata Winiecka, Karolina Pisanko, Arkadiusz Jundziłł, Karolina Szewczyk-Golec and Iga Hołyńska-Iwan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 192; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040192 - 29 Jul 2026

Abstract

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps [...] Read more.

Collagen is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an active ingredient in skin-care formulations due to its biocompatibility, biodegradability, low antigenicity, and high biological activity. As a natural humectant, collagen binds water molecules within the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss, and helps maintain skin elasticity and hydration. Despite its broad application, the influence of collagen on epithelial ion transport remains insufficiently understood. This study evaluated the effect of a gel containing triple-helical collagen on sodium and chloride ion transport in the isolated rabbit skin. The collagen gel was applied to 25 skin specimens for 24 h and compared with 30 untreated control specimens. Electrophysiological analyses included measurements of transepithelial electrical potential (PD), electrical resistance (R), and potential changes during stimulation (PDmin and PDmax). Collagen gel significantly decreased R compared with control tissues, indicating altered tissue permeability. Collagen gel-treated tissues also exhibited a significantly more electropositive PDmin than controls, whereas PDmax values remained comparable between groups, suggesting that electrophysiological responsiveness was maintained under the experimental conditions. The observed electropositive shift in PDmin may reflect altered sodium ion transport. Whether these electrophysiological changes are associated with changes in tissue hydration requires direct investigation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

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21 pages, 1657 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of a Tubtim Chumphae Rice Extract Facial Serum on Skin Biophysical Properties in Healthy Middle-Aged Adults: A Split-Face Controlled Clinical Trial

by Thapanee Roengrit, Thirapit Subongkot, Thanchanok Sirirak, Suwipa Intakhiao, Jatuporn Phoemsapthawee and Piyapong Prasertsri

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 191; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040191 - 25 Jul 2026

Abstract

This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face [...] Read more.

This study aimed to investigate the effects of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract on skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, pigmentation, and erythema in healthy adults aged 30–50 years. Thirty participants applied two facial serums daily to opposite sides of the face for 12 weeks: (1) a serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract (treatment intervention) and (2) a standard serum formulation containing 2% α-arbutin (control intervention). Skin hydration, elasticity, oiliness, melanin, and erythema were assessed at baseline and after the intervention using non-invasive skin measurement techniques. At baseline, no significant differences were observed between facial sides for any outcome. After 12 weeks, the side treated with the treatment intervention demonstrated significant within-side improvements in skin hydration at the forehead, skin elasticity at the cheeks and chin, and reductions in melanin and erythema in selected facial regions (all p < 0.05). However, paired split-face comparisons revealed that the treatment intervention produced significantly greater skin hydration at the cheek (mean difference = 3.88 AU, 95% CI: 0.23–7.53 AU, p = 0.039) and significantly greater skin elasticity at the forehead (mean difference = 0.090, 95% CI: 0.011–0.169, p = 0.028) compared with the control intervention. In addition, skin oiliness at the cheek was significantly lower on the side treated with the treatment intervention (mean difference = −6.62 µg/cm², 95% CI: −12.62 to −0.62 µg/cm², p = 0.032). No significant between-intervention differences were observed for melanin or erythema at any facial region. These findings suggest that topical application of a facial serum containing Tubtim Chumphae rice extract may improve skin hydration and elasticity while reducing skin oiliness in healthy middle-aged adults. However, no significant advantages over a standard 2% α-arbutin serum were observed for skin pigmentation or erythema after 12 weeks of treatment. Clinical Trial Registration: ClinicalTrials.gov, NCT06475222. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic The Use of Natural Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetic Products: Advantages and Challenges)

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24 pages, 6950 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimization of a Nanoemulsion-Based Lip Balm Incorporating Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Catenella sp. for Enhanced Photoprotection

by Vanessa Urrea-Victoria, Valentina Aranzazu Suárez, Santiago Andrés Barrero Salinas, Yoshie A. Hata, Daniel Cárdenas Ballesteros, Leonardo Castellanos and Diana Marcela Aragón Novoa

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 190; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040190 - 24 Jul 2026

Abstract

Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application [...] Read more.

Background: Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin damage, driving the demand for safer and more sustainable photoprotective systems. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have emerged as promising natural UV filters due to their strong absorption and photostability; however, their application is limited by poor chemical stability in aqueous environments. Objective: The present study aimed to develop and optimize a nanoemulsion-based lip balm incorporating a MAAs-rich extract from Catenella sp., addressing stability limitations while enhancing photoprotective performance. Methods: A MAAs-rich extract was obtained and characterized by UHPLC-DAD, followed by cytotoxicity evaluation in NIH-3T3 fibroblasts and stability assessment under stress conditions. A water-in-oil (w/o) nanoemulsion was rationally developed using pseudo-ternary phase diagrams and optimized through a Box–Behnken experimental design, considering aqueous phase, surfactant mixture, and sonication time as key variables. The optimized nanoemulsion was subsequently incorporated into a lip balm matrix, which was formulated and optimized using a mixture design approach to evaluate thermal, mechanical, and sensory properties. Results: The extract exhibited a high MAAs content (9.53 mg g⁻¹ DW) and low cytotoxicity (IC₅₀ > 100 µg/mL), but pronounced hydrolytic instability, particularly under alkaline conditions, while remaining photostable. The optimized nanoemulsion achieved a droplet size below 200 nm and low polydispersity (PDI < 0.3). Importantly, incorporation of MAAs into nanoemulsion significantly enhanced the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), increasing from 16.1 (extract) to 35.4, while maintaining broad-spectrum UV coverage (λc = 380 nm). The blank nanoemulsion also contributed to UV attenuation, indicating a synergistic effect of the colloidal system. The optimized lip balm formulation (33% beeswax, 40% nanoemulsion, 22% shea butter, 1% candelilla wax, 4% carnauba wax) demonstrated suitable melting behavior, mechanical resistance, and high sensory acceptance. Conclusions: This study demonstrates that nanoemulsion-based structuring combined with statistical formulation design provides an effective strategy to stabilize MAAs and enhance their photoprotective efficacy, supporting the development of high-performance, natural sunscreen products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, 2nd Edition)

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14 pages, 22584 KB

Open AccessArticle

Taiwanofungus camphoratus-Derived Extracellular Vesicles as a Potential Cosmetic Bioactive Candidate for Protecting Keratinocytes from UVB-Induced Photoaging

by Han-Wen Hsieh, Mo-Rong Xu, Wen-Wei Hsiao and Sheng-Yang Wang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040189 - 24 Jul 2026

Abstract

Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs [...] Read more.

Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced photoaging is characterized by oxidative stress, mitochondrial dysfunction, and epidermal barrier impairment. Although extracellular vesicles (EVs) have emerged as bioactive mediators of intercellular signaling, the dermatological relevance of fungal-derived EVs remains poorly understood. In this study, we investigated whether EVs isolated from liquid-cultured Taiwanofungus camphoratus mycelia (TCEVs) protect keratinocytes against UVB-induced damage. TCEVs displayed nanosized vesicular features with a mean particle size of 134.6 ± 4.6 nm and a stable negative surface charge. In HaCaT cells, TCEVs showed no obvious cytotoxicity and increased wound closure. In UVB-exposed keratinocytes, TCEV pretreatment improved cell viability, increased ATP production, reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species accumulation, and improved mitochondrial membrane potential. At the highest tested concentration (10 × 10¹⁰ particles/mL), TCEVs reduced UVB-induced relative ROS levels from 118.65% to 98.2% and increased relative ATP levels from 70.47% to 86.0%. TCEVs also increased the expression of ZO-1, occludin, and Claudin-3 and were associated with increased SIRT1 and p-AMPK expression and partial improvement of PGC-1α. In contrast, Nrf2 and TFAM did not differ significantly from the UVB-irradiated group. These findings support the potential of TCEVs to prevent UVB-induced keratinocyte damage under the present in vitro conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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14 pages, 2878 KB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Characterization of Injectable Dermal Fillers: Physicochemical Properties, Cytotoxicity, Collagen-Stimulating Activity, and Macrophage Cytokine Profiles

by Seonhong Min, Gadug Han and Jaehyeon Kim

Cosmetics 2026, 13(4), 188; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13040188 - 23 Jul 2026

Abstract

Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem^®, cCaHA, PDLLA, [...] Read more.

Injectable dermal fillers are widely used in aesthetic medicine for soft-tissue augmentation and facial rejuvenation; however, systematic comparative data on their physicochemical properties and biological activities remain limited. This study aimed to characterise five commercially available dermal filler products—Facetem^®, cCaHA, PDLLA, PLLA, and PCL—with respect to particle morphology and size distribution, in vitro cytotoxicity, collagen-stimulating gene expression, and macrophage cytokine secretion profiles. Particle size and distribution were determined by laser diffraction. Cytotoxicity was assessed in L929 mouse fibroblasts using the CCK-8 assay at concentrations of 0.1–5 mg/mL. Collagen-stimulating activity was evaluated by measuring COL1A1 and COL3A2 mRNA expression in primary human fibroblasts via quantitative RT-PCR. Macrophage immune responses were profiled by a multiplexed cytokine array (40 analytes) in lipopolysaccharide/interferon-γ-polarised M1 and interleukin-4/interleukin-13-polarised M2 macrophages. Scanning electron microscopy revealed distinct morphological differences among the five products. PDLLA exhibited the smallest median particle size (d(0.5) = 24.9 μm) and highest specific surface area (701.4 m²/kg), while PLLA showed the broadest size distribution (Span = 1.617). All products maintained cell viability above 85% at all tested concentrations, indicating acceptable biocompatibility. Facetem^®, PDLLA, and PLLA significantly upregulated COL1A1 expression in human fibroblasts; PDLLA and Facetem^® also significantly increased COL3A2 expression. Cytokine profiling demonstrated that the products did not substantially alter pro-inflammatory cytokine secretion in M1 macrophages, whereas selected products at high concentrations modulated several mediators in M2 macrophages, suggesting a tissue-remodelling rather than inflammatory response. These findings demonstrate product-specific physicochemical and biological profiles that may guide clinician selection and formulation development of injectable dermal fillers. Facetem^® exhibited a favourable combination of biocompatibility, collagen-stimulating activity, and immune-modulatory properties comparable or superior to established reference products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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