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Unraveling the Molecular Mechanisms of Synthetic Acetyl Hexapeptide in E-Cadherin Activation for Tissue Rejuvenation
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A Conceptual Engineering Approach to Developing a Bio-Based Hair Mask
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Efficacy of a New Non-Invasive System Delivering Microwave Energy for the Treatment of Abdominal Adipose Tissue: Results of an Immunohistochemical Study
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Production and Characterization of Semi-Solid Formulations for the Delivery of the Cosmetic Peptide Palmitoyl-GHK
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Aesthetic Gynecology and Mental Health: What Does It Really Mean for Women?
Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: JCR - Q1 (Dermatology) / CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 22.3 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 4.5 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2024).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.2 (2024);
5-Year Impact Factor:
3.9 (2024)
Latest Articles
Natural Plant-Based Rejuvenating Compositions: Human Study on Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica Saponins for Skin Health
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 131; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040131 - 20 Jun 2025
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This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned
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This study aimed to evaluate the effects of a proprietary plant-based formulation of Astragalus membranaceus and Centella asiatica saponins (ACS) on skin health, as both a cosmetic ingredient and a functional supplement. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 150 healthy adults were assigned to groups using topical ACS cream, oral ACS capsules, combined treatments, or corresponding placebos. Skin brightness, moisture, elasticity, melanin value, pore count, texture, and collagen content were assessed over 4 to 12 weeks. After 4 weeks of topical ACS application, skin brightness improved by 2.5%, elasticity by 6.5%, melanin decreased by 5.2%, pores reduced by 10.6%, and collagen increased by 8.7% (p < 0.05). After 12 weeks of oral ACS, brightness, elasticity, texture, and collagen significantly improved (p < 0.05). The combined treatment group showed the greatest improvements, including a 4.2% increase in brightness, 12.9% increase in moisture, 9.0% elasticity increase, and a 28.5% reduction in pore count (p < 0.05). ACS, whether used topically, orally, or in combination, effectively enhances skin health and offers a natural solution for skin rejuvenation.
Full article
Open AccessArticle
Oxidative-Inflammatory Modulation of Skin Lipid Metabolism by Squalane, Oleic Acid, and Linoleic Acid
by
Wen-Rong Zhang, Qi-Rong Zhang, Zi-Yan Zhou, Yi-Fan Zhang, Xue-Wan Li, Hai-Yang Shen, Li-Feng Tang and Qi Xiang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 130; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040130 - 20 Jun 2025
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Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present
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Squalane (SQ, a saturated, sebum-mimetic hydrocarbon), oleic acid (OA, a monounsaturated fatty acid), and linoleic acid (LA, a polyunsaturated essential fatty acid) belong to the category of “lipids and fats” in cosmetic materials, and are widely employed as skin-conditioning emollients. However, they present differences in UV stress. In this study, we compared their effects on UV-induced oxidative damage, inflammation, and lipid metabolism using a mouse model and human sebaceous gland cells (SZ95). Results showed that 10% SQ did not worsen oxidative damage or inflammation after 6 weeks of UV exposure. In contrast, the 5% and 10% OA/LA groups showed increased skin wrinkling (p < 0.01), epidermal thickening (p < 0.05), and sebaceous gland atrophy. Transcriptome analysis indicated OA/LA upregulated arachidonic acid-related cytokine pathways (PTGS2/IL-1β; p < 0.001). In SZ95 cells, 0.006% OA/LA significantly increased lipid droplet formation (p < 0.001), free fatty acid (FFA) levels (p < 0.001), and pro-inflammatory gene expression (p < 0.001). Conversely, SQ neither promoted lipid droplet/FFA secretion nor induced oxidative stress. These findings suggest that high concentrations of unsaturated fatty acids in skincare may worsen lipid dysregulation and inflammation, while formulations based on saturated hydrocarbons like SQ could provide superior photoaging management by stabilizing skin barrier function.
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Open AccessSystematic Review
Skin Aging and Type I Collagen: A Systematic Review of Interventions with Potential Collagen-Related Effects
by
Ofek Bar and Skaidra Valiukevičienė
Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040129 - 20 Jun 2025
Abstract
Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin
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Aging leads to a decline in skin function due to intrinsic factors (genetics, hormones) and extrinsic factors (sun exposure, pollutants). Type I collagen plays a vital role in maintaining skin integrity and elasticity. As aging progresses, collagen synthesis diminishes, resulting in weakened skin structure and wrinkle formation. This systematic review explores the role of type I collagen in skin aging by summarizing key clinical findings. A systematic search was conducted using PubMed and ScienceDirect as the primary databases, including studies published between 2014 and 2025 that addressed type I collagen and skin aging. Eleven clinical studies were selected following PRISMA guidelines. The results consistently show the decline of type I collagen as a central contributor to dermal thinning, loss of elasticity, and the appearance of wrinkles and sagging. Clinical trials demonstrate that collagen supplementation, particularly from hydrolyzed fish cartilage and low-molecular-weight peptides, enhances collagen production, improves skin hydration and texture, and reduces signs of photoaging. Overall, the evidence emphasizes the critical role of type I collagen in skin aging and suggests that targeted collagen supplementation may serve as an effective strategy to maintain skin structure and combat visible signs of aging.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessCommunication
Sun Protection Products Protect Against UV-Induced Mitochondrial DNA Damage and Blue Light-Induced Cell Decline in Human Dermal Fibroblast Skin Cell Viability
by
Jessica Moor, Amy Bowman, Hina Choudhary, Jonathan Brookes, Patricia Brieva and Mark Anthony Birch-Machin
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 128; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030128 - 19 Jun 2025
Abstract
The first part of the study shows that four commercial sun protection SPF 50 products provide statistically significant (all p < 0.021) protection by reducing the amount of UV-induced mitochondrial (mtDNA) damage in human dermal fibroblast skin cells (i.e., 320% protection). mtDNA damage
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The first part of the study shows that four commercial sun protection SPF 50 products provide statistically significant (all p < 0.021) protection by reducing the amount of UV-induced mitochondrial (mtDNA) damage in human dermal fibroblast skin cells (i.e., 320% protection). mtDNA damage has been shown to be an effective and reliable biomarker of skin damage and plays a key role in the ageing process. The second part of the study investigates a sub-set, namely two of the four commercial sun protection products. Both products significantly protect (both p < 0.014) against the longer wavelength blue light induced decrease in a different biomarker, namely the viability of human dermal fibroblast skin cells.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessReview
Evolution of Thread Lifting: Advancing Toward Bioactive Polymers and Sustained Hyaluronic Acid Delivery
by
Pavel Burko and Ilias Miltiadis
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030127 - 18 Jun 2025
Abstract
Facial aging is a multifactorial and stratified biological process characterized by progressive morphological and biochemical alterations affecting both cutaneous (Layer I) and subcutaneous (Layer II) tissues. These age-related changes manifest clinically as volume depletion, tissue ptosis, and a decline in overall skin quality.
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Facial aging is a multifactorial and stratified biological process characterized by progressive morphological and biochemical alterations affecting both cutaneous (Layer I) and subcutaneous (Layer II) tissues. These age-related changes manifest clinically as volume depletion, tissue ptosis, and a decline in overall skin quality. In response to these phenomena, thread lifting techniques have evolved significantly—from simple mechanical suspension methods to sophisticated bioactive platforms. Contemporary threads now incorporate biocompatible polymers and hyaluronic acid (HA), aiming not only to reposition soft tissues but also to promote dermal regeneration. This review provides a comprehensive classification and critical assessment of thread lifting materials, focusing on their chemical composition, mechanical performance, degradation kinetics, and biostimulatory potential. Particular emphasis has been given to the surface integration of HA into monofilament threads, especially with the emergence of advanced delivery systems such as NAMICA, which facilitate sustained HA release. Advanced thread materials, especially those fabricated from poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) [P(LA/CL)], demonstrate both tensile support and regenerative efficacy. Emerging HA-covered threads exhibit synergistic bioactivity, stimulating skin remodeling. NAMICA technology represents an advancement in the field, in which HA is encapsulated within biodegradable polymer fibers to enable gradual release and enhanced dermal integration. Nonetheless, well-designed human studies are still needed to substantiate its therapeutic efficacy. Consequently, the paradigm of thread lifting is shifting from purely mechanical interventions toward biologically active systems that promote comprehensive ECM regeneration. The integration of HA into resorbable threads, especially when combined with sustained-release technologies, represents a meaningful innovation in aesthetic dermatology, meriting further preclinical and clinical evaluation.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Deodorizing Activity of Hop Bitter Acids and Their Oxidation Products Against Allyl Methyl Sulfide, a Major Contributor to Unpleasant Garlic-Associated Breath and Body Odor
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Atsushi Henmi, Tsutomu Sugino, Akira Sasaki, Kenichi Nakamura and Masakuni Okuhara
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030126 - 17 Jun 2025
Abstract
Garlic is a spice widely used worldwide, but ingestion of garlic can cause unpleasant breath odor that can be offensive in interpersonal interactions. Among several sulfur-containing components of garlic, allyl methyl sulfide is considered the primary causative agent of unpleasant garlic breath and
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Garlic is a spice widely used worldwide, but ingestion of garlic can cause unpleasant breath odor that can be offensive in interpersonal interactions. Among several sulfur-containing components of garlic, allyl methyl sulfide is considered the primary causative agent of unpleasant garlic breath and body odor. We discovered that hop cone powder exhibits potent deodorizing activity against allyl methyl sulfide. Oxidation products of the hop bitter acids humulinone and hulupone were detected in a partially purified sample of hop cone powder. Oxidation products of the α-acids cohumulinone and n-humulinone showed approximately 10- and 15-fold stronger deodorizing activity than the parent α-acids, respectively. The deodorizing activity of oxidation products of β-acids was comparable to that of n-humulinone. It is presumed that the oxidation products of hop powder play an important role in the strong deodorizing activity of hop cone powder against allyl methyl sulfide.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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The Effectiveness of a Topical Rosehip Oil Treatment on Facial Skin Characteristics: A Pilot Study on Wrinkles, UV Spots Reduction, Erythema Mitigation, and Age-Related Signs
by
Diana Patricia Oargă (Porumb), Mihaiela Cornea-Cipcigan, Silvia Amalia Nemeș and Mirela Irina Cordea
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 125; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030125 - 16 Jun 2025
Abstract
Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high
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Skin aging is a complex process influenced by several factors, including UV exposure, environmental stressors, and lifestyle choices. The demand for effective, natural skincare products has driven research into plant-based oils rich in bioactive compounds. Rosehip oil has garnered attention for its high content of carotenoids, phenolics, and antioxidants, which are known for their anti-aging, photoprotective, and skin-rejuvenating properties. Despite the growing interest in rosehip oil, limited studies have investigated its efficacy on human skin using advanced imaging technologies. This study aims to fill this gap by evaluating the efficacy of cold-pressed Rosa canina seed oil on facial skin characteristics, specifically wrinkles, ultraviolet (UV) spot reduction, and erythema mitigation, using imaging technologies (the VISIA analysis system). Seed oil pressed from R. canina collected from the Băișoara area of Cluj County has been selected for this study due to its high carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents. The oil has also been analyzed for the content of individual carotenoids (i.e., lutein, lycopene, β Carotene, and zeaxanthin) using HPLC-DAD (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography—Diode Array Detector), along with lutein and zeaxanthin esters and diesters. After the preliminary screening of multiple Rosa species for carotenoid, phenolic, and antioxidant contents, the R. canina sample with the highest therapeutic potential was selected. A cohort of 27 volunteers (aged 30–65) underwent a five-week treatment protocol, wherein three drops of the selected rosehip oil were topically applied to the face daily. The VISIA imaging was conducted before and after the treatment to evaluate changes in skin parameters, including the wrinkle depth, UV-induced spots, porphyrins, and texture. Regarding the bioactivities, rosehip oil showed a significant total carotenoids content (28.398 μg/mL), with the highest levels in the case of the β-carotene (4.49 μg/mL), lutein (4.33 μg/mL), and zexanthin (10.88 μg/mL) contents. Results indicated a significant reduction in mean wrinkle scores across several age groups, with notable improvements in individuals with deeper baseline wrinkles. UV spots also showed visible declines, suggesting ideal photoprotective and anti-pigmentary effects attributable to the oil’s high vitamin A and carotenoid content. Porphyrin levels, often correlated with bacterial activity, decreased in most subjects, hinting at an additional antimicrobial or microbiome-modulatory property. However, skin responses varied, possibly due to individual differences in skin sensitivity, environmental factors, or compliance with sun protection. Overall, the topical application of R. canina oil appeared to improve the facial skin quality, reduce the appearance of age-related markers, and support skin health. These findings reinforce the potential use of rosehip oil in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further long-term, large-scale studies are warranted to refine dosing regimens, investigate mechanisms of action, and explore synergistic effects with other bioactive compounds.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)
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Open AccessArticle
Multi-Target Anti-Aging Mechanisms of Multani Mitti (Fuller’s Earth): Integrating Enzyme Inhibition and Molecular Docking for Cosmeceuticals
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Muhammad Javid Iqbal, Pía Loren, Viviana Burgos and Luis A. Salazar
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030124 - 13 Jun 2025
Abstract
The growing demand for natural anti-aging ingredients necessitates scientific validation of traditional cosmetic materials. Multani Mitti (MM), a clay widely used in South Asian traditional skincare, lacks comprehensive chemical and biological characterization. This study employed a multi-analytical approach to investigate MM’s anti-aging potential
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The growing demand for natural anti-aging ingredients necessitates scientific validation of traditional cosmetic materials. Multani Mitti (MM), a clay widely used in South Asian traditional skincare, lacks comprehensive chemical and biological characterization. This study employed a multi-analytical approach to investigate MM’s anti-aging potential through chemical analysis, enzyme inhibition studies, and in silico evaluations. Five commercial MM samples were pooled and analyzed using instrumental neutron activation analysis (INAA) and Gas Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). INAA revealed silicon as the predominant inorganic constituent (169.3742 mg/g), while GC-MS identified 13 bioactive compounds, with Beta-sitosterol (15.45% area), Docosanamide (12.36% area), and Cyclohexasiloxane (9.80% area) being the most abundant. MM demonstrated significant enzyme inhibition against key aging-related enzymes, with notably strong effects on hyaluronidase (IC50: 18 μg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC50: 27 μg/mL), outperforming standard inhibitors. The antioxidant activity showed moderate effectiveness (IC50: 31.938 μg/mL) compared to ascorbic acid (IC50: 8.5 μg/mL). Molecular docking studies of identified compounds against hyaluronidase (PDB: 1FCV) and tyrosinase (PDB: 3NQ1) revealed Beta-sitosterol and Benzyl-piperazine-carboxamide as the most promising candidates, showing strong binding affinities (−8.5 and −8.6 kcal/mol, respectively) and favorable ADMET profiles. This comprehensive characterization provides the first scientific evidence supporting MM’s traditional use in skincare and identifies specific compounds that may contribute to its anti-aging properties, warranting further investigation for modern cosmetic applications.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)
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Chamomile Matters: Species- and Producer-Dependent Variation in Bulgarian Matricaria recutita L. and Chamaemelum nobile L. Essential Oils and Their Cosmetic Potential
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Daniela Batovska, Natalina Panova, Anelia Gerasimova, Yulian Tumbarski, Ivan Ivanov, Ivayla Dincheva, Ina Yotkovska, Galia Gentscheva and Krastena Nikolova
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 123; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030123 - 13 Jun 2025
Abstract
Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares
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Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares the chemical composition and biological activity of EOs from German chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile L.), sourced from two major Bulgarian producers—Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. and Kateko Ltd. (Plovdiv, Bulgaria). Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) profiling revealed species- and producer-dependent differences. German chamomile EOs were rich in β-farnesene, chamazulene, and bisabolol oxides, whereas Roman chamomile EOs were dominated by isobutyl angelate and related esters. Antioxidant activity, assessed via the ABTS assay, was higher in German chamomile EOs, especially from Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. The oils also showed photoprotective potential, with SPF values of 26–27 for German and 9–16 for Roman chamomile. Anti-inflammatory activity, evaluated by inhibition of albumin denaturation, was highest in Roman chamomile oils and comparable to that of prednisolone, while German chamomile also showed strong effects. Antimicrobial activity was generally low, with moderate effects observed only against Penicillium chrysogenum and Aspergillus flavus. These findings support the targeted use of chamomile EOs in cosmetics—German chamomile for antioxidant-rich, UV-protective, and microbiome-supportive care, and Roman chamomile for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and fragrance-enhancing applications.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Exploration of Salak Peel Extract Activities for Cosmeceutical Applications and Its Encapsulation in Ethosomes Using Green Method
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Supreeda Tambunlertchai, Raweewan Thiramanas, Yodsathorn Wongngam, Pimnipa Yodkrahom, Sornsawan Batthong, Kunat Suktham, Suvimol Surassmo, Udom Asawapirom and Duangporn Polpanich
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 122; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030122 - 12 Jun 2025
Abstract
Salak peel extract has various biological properties befitting cosmeceutical applications; however, their practical uses are still limited due to their low water solubility and stability. Encapsulation technology was employed to alleviate these issues. In this work, we presented a simple method to prepare
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Salak peel extract has various biological properties befitting cosmeceutical applications; however, their practical uses are still limited due to their low water solubility and stability. Encapsulation technology was employed to alleviate these issues. In this work, we presented a simple method to prepare ethosome-encapsulated salak peel extract using green solvents (ethanol and water). For this purpose, we used 95% ethanol to extract salak peel and explored its activities. Results showed that, in addition to anti-oxidant, the extract also showed anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial (against S. aureus) activities. These activities indicate its potential uses in cosmeceutical applications. We further encapsulated the extract in ethosomes using a stirrer and green solvents for the preparation methods. The yielded ethosomes exhibited a size range of 120 to 205 nm, polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.15 to 0.25, and zeta potential of −35 to −60 mV depending on the amount of L-α-phosphatidylcholine used. The highest encapsulation efficiency was approximately 30%. The antiradical capacity and anti-inflammatory activities of salak peel extract were also found to be maintained after the encapsulation process. An in vitro biocompatibility study of the extract after encapsulation was also performed. The results not only indicated good biocompatibility, but also the potential skin-rejuvenating ability of salak peel ethosomes. A stability study was also performed, and the results suggested that these ethosomes were stable at different conditions. With further investigation, salak peel ethosomes, as presented here, can be suitable for cosmeceutical applications.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)
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Open AccessArticle
Heat-Treated Probiotics’ Role in Counteraction of Skin UVs-Induced Damage In Vitro
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Giorgia Mondadori, Angela Amoruso, Annalisa Visciglia, Giovanni Deusebio, Daniela Pinto, Marco Pane and Fabio Rinaldi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030121 - 11 Jun 2025
Abstract
Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiations represents a significant risk factor and may lead to various skin disorders, premature aging, and an increased susceptibility to skin cancers. Recently, probiotics have emerged as promising candidates for fortifying the skin’s natural defences through their diverse
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Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiations represents a significant risk factor and may lead to various skin disorders, premature aging, and an increased susceptibility to skin cancers. Recently, probiotics have emerged as promising candidates for fortifying the skin’s natural defences through their diverse mechanisms. The aim of the present work was exploring the potential of five heat-treated probiotics (SkinbacTM, Probiotical Research S.r.l., Novara, Italy), as protective agents against UVA and UVB damages on human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) and human skin 3D model (Phenion® Full-Thickness Skin Model, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Dusseldorf, Germany). The protective role toward artificially induced oxidative stress was evaluated by determining the residual viability after UV exposure and analyzing gene expression of markers involved in apoptosis (Tumor protein 53), inflammation/immunosuppression (Interleukin 6), oxidative stress (oxidative stress response enzyme heme oxygenase 1), investigated using quantitative real-time PCR. Additionally, we examined the protective effects of these strains, testing them on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) irradiated with UVC, specifically, evaluating the expression of tight junction proteins, including claudin 1, claudin 4, and occludin, by ELISA. The tested heat-treated probiotics effectively protected from UVA, UVB, and UVC damage on all end points analyzed, revealing their capacity to enhance barrier protection in cases of damage and their potential for innovative skincare strategies centered around probiotic-based formulations for enhanced protection against UV-induced skin damage.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
The Evaluating Skin Acid–Base Balance After Application of Cold-Processed and Hot-Processed Natural Soaps: A Double-Blind pH Monitoring Study
by
Julita Zdrada-Nowak, Sandra Aniołkowska and Małgorzata Deska
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030120 - 11 Jun 2025
Abstract
Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled
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Maintaining the physiological acid–base balance of the skin is critical to preserving the integrity of the epidermal barrier and preventing irritation. This study investigates the short-term effects of natural soaps, prepared using cold and hot processes, on skin surface pH. A double-blind, controlled design was applied to assess changes in pH following application of soap formulations. pH levels were measured in vivo using non-invasive instrumentation at baseline and 2, 15 and 30 min post-application in 41 adult volunteers. The results demonstrated a significant increase in skin pH immediately after exposure to both types of natural soap, with elevated values persisting for up to 30 min. These changes were associated with potential disruption of the skin’s acid mantle and reduced buffering capacity. The findings highlight the importance of pH considerations in the formulation and routine use of natural cleansers. Although natural soaps are often perceived as gentle alternatives, their alkalinity may transiently disturb the skin’s acid–base homeostasis, potentially leading to increased transepidermal water loss and barrier impairment. This study supports the need for reformulation strategies and consumer awareness regarding the physicochemical impact of cleansing agents on skin health.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Study of the Repair Action and Mechanisms of a Moisturizing Cream on an SLS-Damaged Skin Model Using Two-Photon Microscopy
by
Yixin Shen, Ying Ye, Lina Wang, Huiping Hu, Caixia Wang, Yuxuan Wu, Dingqiao Lin, Jiaqi Shen, Hong Zhang, Yanan Li and Peiwen Sun
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030119 - 10 Jun 2025
Abstract
This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The
[...] Read more.
This study evaluates the efficacy of a novel moisturizing cream using a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin damage model, supported by advanced imaging with two-photon microscopy (TPM). TPM’s capabilities allow for in-depth, non-invasive visualization of skin repair processes, surpassing traditional imaging methods. The innovative formulation of the cream includes ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide AP, lactobacillus/soybean ferment extract, and bacillus ferment, targeting the enhancement of skin hydration, barrier function, and structural integrity. In SLS-stimulated 3D skin models and clinical settings, the cream significantly improved the expression of key barrier proteins such as filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), while reducing inflammatory markers like IL-1α, TNF-α, and PGE2. Notably, the cream facilitated a significant increase in epidermal thickness and improved the dermal–epidermal junction index (DEJI), as observed through TPM, indicating profound skin repair and enhanced barrier functionality. Clinical trials further demonstrated the cream’s reparative effects, significantly reducing symptoms in participants with sensitive skin and post-intense pulsed light (IPL) treatment scenarios. This study highlights the utility of TPM as a groundbreaking tool in cosmetic dermatology, offering real-time analysis of the effects of skincare products on skin structure and function.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
Role of Emulsifiers and SPF Booster in Sunscreen Performance: Assessing SPF, Rheological Behavior, Texture, and Stability
by
Miroslava Špaglová, Paula Čermáková, Patrícia Jackuliaková and Juraj Piešťanský
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030118 - 5 Jun 2025
Abstract
This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate® 80 with Beautyderm® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along
[...] Read more.
This study investigates the impact of emulsifier substitution and booster concentration on sunscreen characteristics, including physical properties, the sun protection factor (SPF), and sensory attributes. The impact of substituting Polysorbate® 80 with Beautyderm® K10 as an emulsifier in sunscreen formulations, along with the effect of increasing concentrations of the Sunhancer™ Eco SPF Booster, was thoroughly evaluated. Spectrophotometric methods were used to determine SPF, while texture analysis and rheological measurements assessed physical characteristics. Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge stress test, and sensory analysis was conducted on the top-performing formulation. The results indicated that the choice of emulsifier and booster concentration significantly influenced SPF values and stability. The influence of booster concentration on textural properties was most significant in formulations containing Beautyderm®. Centrifuge testing revealed phase separation in certain formulations. Notably, the formulations that exhibited the greatest stability were those in which Beautyderm® was combined with either Polysorbate® or Span®. Following the stability test results, the cream formulation containing Beautyderm® and Polysorbate® as emulsifiers was further evaluated through sensory analysis. Independent assessors determined that the sensory attributes of the cream did not undergo significant changes even when zinc oxide was added at a concentration of 1% (w/w) to the formulation. These findings underscore the importance of carefully selecting emulsifiers and boosters to achieve high sun protection efficacy, stability, and desirable sensory properties in sunscreen formulations.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Nephelium lappaceum Peel Extract and Geraniin on External Skin Stimulation
by
Eun-Jeong Lee, Soo-Mi Ahn, Youn-Hee Nam, Myo-Deok Kim, Chan-Song Jo, Bin-Na Hong, Youn-Ki Cho and Jae-Sung Hwang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030117 - 4 Jun 2025
Abstract
Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced
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Geraniin is the major compound in Nephelium lappaceum peel and exhibits significant immunomodulatory effects. So, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin through in vitro experiments and clinical trials. In vitro, inflammatory responses were induced using UV, IR, SDS, LPS, and RA, followed by treatment with the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract and geraniin. The results demonstrated significant reductions in inflammatory cytokines, indicating potent anti-inflammatory properties. Based on these promising results, clinical trials were conducted to assess the effects of the Nephelium lappaceum peel extract on skin barrier function using various irritants, including IR, UV, SDS, Retinol, and tape stripping. Measurements of transepidermal water loss and erythema were performed to evaluate the extract’s protective effects. The results indicated that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract effectively mitigated skin barrier damage and reduced erythema, confirming its potential as a skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory agent. This study suggests that Nephelium lappaceum peel extract, rich in bioactive compounds such as geraniin, can be utilized in the development of cosmetic products aimed at reducing skin inflammation and protecting against environmental irritants.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessArticle
An Analytical Framework for the Selective Extraction and Determination of Nine Multiclass Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals from Haircare Products
by
Ilaria Neri, Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Giacomo Russo, Teresa Di Serio, Lucia Grumetto and Sonia Laneri
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030116 - 3 Jun 2025
Abstract
Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care
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Humans are exposed to pollutants daily through various routes, including skin contact. A key concern is the presence of endocrine-disrupting chemicals, which means they can mimic, block or interfere with the body’s natural hormones, in many everyday items, among which are personal care products. We set up a chromatographic method to simultaneously assess the occurrence of nine endocrine disruptors and to verify the compliance with mandatory regulations concerning the potential fraudulent additions of preservatives. A total of twenty-six haircare products were collected and analyzed. The limits of detection ranged from 0.052 μg mL−1 to 1.744 μg mL−1, while the limits of quantification ranged from 0.175 μg mL−1 to 5.815 μg mL−1, respectively. Analyte recovery was between 66% and 87%, demonstrating the accuracy of the method in these target formulations. Even if the recovered quantity of parabens did not exceed the legal limits, the analysis detected bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in 2 real samples and dibutyl phthalate (DBP) in all 26 samples, with concentrations ranging from 151.01 μg/100 g to 1042.58 μg/100 g. Although the European Union regulates the quantity of potentially harmful compounds in consumer goods, repeated use of certain products, such as haircare formulations, could result in chronic exposure to several endocrine disruptors.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)
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Open AccessArticle
Design of a Novel DNA-FISH Probe for the Rapid Identification of Candida albicans in Cosmetic Products
by
Patrícia Branco, Margarida Nunes, Paula Pereira and Elisabete Muchagato Mauricio
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030115 - 3 Jun 2025
Abstract
Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise
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Microbiological quality control in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is crucial for consumer safety. Traditional culture-based detection methods, such as plating on selective media, are time-consuming and may lack sensitivity. Fluorescence In Situ Hybridisation (FISH), a molecular and culture-independent technique, enables rapid and precise microbial identification by targeting specific RNA or DNA sequences with fluorescent probes. In this study, a novel DNA-FISH probe was developed for the detection of Candida albicans in cosmetic formulations. The probe’s specificity was assessed in silico and experimentally using flow cytometry (flow-FISH) on C. albicans and non-target microorganisms, including Pichia kudriavzevii, commonly known as Candida krusei, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Wickerhamomyces anomalus, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The probe exhibited 98.9% hybridization efficiency with C. albicans, yielding a fluorescence intensity (FI) of 25,000 (a.u.), while non-target yeasts demonstrated minimal hybridization (4.7%, 2.3%, and 1.9% for C. krusei, S. cerevisiae, and W. anomalus, respectively) and bacteria showed negligible FI. Additionally, the probe’s applicability was evaluated in a tonic formulation, where C. albicans’ hybridization efficiency was slightly reduced to 88.4%, suggesting that formulation components may influence probe performance. Nevertheless, the probe maintained high specificity and efficiency without formamide, a toxic reagent commonly used in FISH. These findings highlight the potential of FISH probes for rapid, accurate, and safe microbial detection, offering a valuable tool for microbiological quality control in the cosmetics industry.
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Improvement in Wrinkles by a Fairy Chemical, 2-Aza-8-oxohypoxanthine
by
Hisae Aoshima, Rinta Ibuki and Hirokazu Kawagishi
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030114 - 3 Jun 2025
Abstract
2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44
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2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) has been shown to improve skin barrier function according to DNA microarray studies of normal human epidermal keratinocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of AOH in wrinkle improvement. A 12-week clinical trial involved 23 women (mean age 44 ± 8 years), who applied 0.01% or 0.05% AOH lotion to each half of their face twice daily. Skin assessments were conducted before and after application at 4, 8, and 12 weeks by measuring stratum corneum water content using a Corneometer and evaluating wrinkles through image analysis of replicas. Application of the lotion enhanced stratum corneum water content. Use of 0.01% AOH reduced the wrinkle area percentage and maximum wrinkle depth at 8 and 12 weeks post-application, respectively. The 0.05% lotion showed a significant reduction in the wrinkle area percentage and mean maximum wrinkle depth at 12 weeks and a significant decrease in maximum wrinkle depth at 4 weeks. A between-group comparison revealed that the 0.05% AOH lotion significantly reduced mean maximum wrinkle depth compared to the 0.01% AOH lotion at 8 and 12 weeks, indicating a concentration-dependent effect of AOH. Overall, AOH improves wrinkles in a concentration-dependent manner, confirming its efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for wrinkle improvement.
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(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Natural Mineral Water–Plant Extract Combinations as Potential Anti-Aging Ingredients: An In Vitro Evaluation
by
Carolina P. Gomes, Ana S. Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Tayse F. F. da Silveira, Rita Palmeira de Oliveira, Maria José Alves, Paula Plasencia and Ana Palmeira de Oliveira
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030113 - 28 May 2025
Abstract
Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus
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Natural mineral waters (NMWs) and plant extracts have long been valued for their therapeutic properties and skin benefits. This study investigated, in vitro, the role of five Portuguese NMWs (A-E), combined with plant extracts from five species (Ficus carica L., Rubus idaeus L., Vaccinium myrtillus, Cistus ladanifer and Thymus x citriodorus) as bioactive ingredients. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method. Cellular biocompatibility was evaluated in fibroblasts (L929) and macrophages (RAW 264.7). Skin-repairing and anti-senescence properties were evaluated in L929 cells through the scratch-wound method and β-galactosidase assay. Superoxide dismutase (SOD) was quantified using a commercial kit, and lipopolysaccharide-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) were quantified using a fluorescent probe (H2DCFDA) in RAW 264.7. The results highlighted the beneficial impact of extracts combined with NMWs. An increase in antioxidant capacity of up to 90% was observed in mixtures comprising Ficus carica L., compared with NMWs alone. In contrast, mixtures with Cistus ladanifer showed promising anti-aging potential, with a 40% decrease in senescent cells and a 33% ROS reduction. Rubus idaeus L. extract produced an increase in cell migration capacity (up to 50%), depending on the NMW. This study highlights the potential synergism of natural ingredients with plant extracts for anti-aging.
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Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles, and Rheology of Two Photoprotective Formulations with Natural Extracts: A Commercial Product Versus a Vegan Test Formulation
by
Karine Campos Nunes, Bruna Lendzion Alves, Rafaela Said dos Santos, Lennon Alonso de Araújo, Rosângela Bergamasco, Marcos Luciano Bruschi, Tânia Ueda-Nakamura, Sueli de Oliveira Silva Lautenschlager and Celso Vataru Nakamura
Cosmetics 2025, 12(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030112 - 27 May 2025
Abstract
Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological,
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Cumulative exposure to UV radiation can lead to harmful effects such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, thus highlighting the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Many sunscreens are vegan and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. We evaluated biophysical, rheological, and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. The SPF values of P1 and P2 obtained by in vitro tests were 25.21 and 12.10, respectively. They also exhibited pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, which could contribute to better spreadability and form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The comparison of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market.
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