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J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(1), 12; doi:10.3390/jmse4010012

Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations

Deltares, Boussinesqweg 1, 2628 HD Delft, The Netherlands
Royal HaskoningDHV, George Hintzenweg 85, 3009 AM Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Charitha Pattiaratchi
Received: 2 November 2015 / Revised: 17 December 2015 / Accepted: 22 January 2016 / Published: 22 February 2016
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Infra-Gravity Waves and Vessel Response)
View Full-Text   |   Download PDF [2312 KB, uploaded 22 February 2016]   |  


This paper reviews the dynamics of infragravity (long-period) waves over reef systems and the consequences of these waves for operations in ports located behind reefs with particular attention to Western Australia. Swells which originate in the Southern Ocean generate long (infragravity) waves, which propagate to the coast. On the reef edge, the swell waves are largely dissipated, transferring energy to turbulence and heat but also in that process generating long wave energy. The remaining swell waves are dominated by the infragravity waves and propagate towards the mainland and into port basins where they cause moored ship motions with consequences for the operational downtime of the port’s operations. When contemplating solutions to mitigate the impact of the long wave problems, these may be addressed from two sides: from the load side (waves) and the strength side (mooring). The former will be discussed in this paper. View Full-Text
Keywords: long waves; infragravity waves; ports; wave penetration; wave modeling; XBeach long waves; infragravity waves; ports; wave penetration; wave modeling; XBeach

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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. (CC BY 4.0).

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van Dongeren, A.; de Jong, M.; van der Lem, C.; van Deyzen, A.; den Bieman, J. Review of Long Wave Dynamics over Reefs and into Ports with Implication for Port Operations. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4, 12.

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