Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers
AbstractThe aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-µm range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the µm range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (“encapsulated water”) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. View Full-Text
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Dahl, V.; Friedrich, A.; Meyer, J.; Venzmer, J.; Belkoura, L.; Strey, R.; Mayer, C.; Michel, R.; Gradzielski, M. Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers. Colloids Interfaces 2018, 2, 3.
Dahl V, Friedrich A, Meyer J, Venzmer J, Belkoura L, Strey R, Mayer C, Michel R, Gradzielski M. Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers. Colloids and Interfaces. 2018; 2(1):3.Chicago/Turabian Style
Dahl, Verena; Friedrich, Achim; Meyer, Jürgen; Venzmer, Joachim; Belkoura, Lhoussaine; Strey, Reinhard; Mayer, Christian; Michel, Raphael; Gradzielski, Michael. 2018. "Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers." Colloids Interfaces 2, no. 1: 3.