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J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(1), 1; doi:10.3390/jmse4010001

An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach

1
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering Science, University College London, Gower Street, London WC1E 6BT, UK
2
Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Ottawa, 161, Louis Pasteur St., A609, Ottawa, ON K1N 6N5, Canada
3
Franzius-Institute for Hydraulic, Estuarine and Coastal Engineering, Leibniz Universität Hannover, Nienburger Str. 4, Hannover 30167, Germany
4
CEN—Center for Earth System Research and Sustainability, Universität Hamburg, Grindelberg 5, Hamburg, Germany
5
Department of Mathematics, Universität Hamburg, Bundesstraße 55, Hamburg 20146, Germany
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editors: Valentin Heller and Billy Edge
Received: 31 July 2015 / Revised: 2 December 2015 / Accepted: 9 December 2015 / Published: 25 December 2015
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Tsunami Science and Engineering)
View Full-Text   |   Download PDF [3761 KB, uploaded 25 December 2015]   |  

Abstract

This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions. View Full-Text
Keywords: long wave; tsunami run-up; pump-driven wave generator; discontinuous Galerkin model; shallow water equations long wave; tsunami run-up; pump-driven wave generator; discontinuous Galerkin model; shallow water equations
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. (CC BY 4.0).

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Drähne, U.; Goseberg, N.; Vater, S.; Beisiegel, N.; Behrens, J. An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4, 1.

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