Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery) / CiteScore - Q1 (Dermatology)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 18 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 6.6 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2023).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.3 (2022)
Latest Articles
Contact Dermatitis Due to Hair Care Products: A Comprehensive Review
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030078 (registering DOI) - 9 May 2024
Abstract
Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider
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Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
Open AccessArticle
Effect of Fermentation and Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry
by
Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, Willian Quintero-Mendoza, Raquel Díaz, Juliana E. C. Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero and Maria Soledad Hernández
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030077 - 8 May 2024
Abstract
The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process
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The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
Open AccessReview
Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications
by
Mónica Serra, Eduardo Gudina, Cláudia Botelho, José António Teixeira and Ana Novo Barros
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030076 - 8 May 2024
Abstract
Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency,
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Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
Open AccessArticle
Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes
by
Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa and Hatsumi Takeda
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030075 - 7 May 2024
Abstract
The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation
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The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
Open AccessReview
Adult Female Acne: Recent Advances in Pathophysiology and Therapeutic Approaches
by
Andreea Amuzescu, Mircea Tampa, Clara Matei and Simona Roxana Georgescu
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 74; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030074 - 5 May 2024
Abstract
Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate
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Adult acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the pilosebaceous unit characterized by the excessive production of abnormal sebum favoring an imbalance of the skin microbiota and the hyperproliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and other virulent microbial strains, leading to an inflammatory environment, innate immunity overactivation, and keratinocyte hyperproliferation in hair follicles pores. Degraded keratinocytes plug the pores, consequently forming microcomedons, which can later evolve to papules, nodules, pustules and scars. Distinct from juvenile acne, in adult female acne (AFA) the symptomatology occurs or persists in postadolescence (after age 25). Although hyperandrogenism or the excessive sensitivity of androgen receptors are the main causes, AFA can be triggered by multiple factors, either including or not including androgen disturbances. The prevalence in adult women is 15–20%. Hyperandrogenism is present in 50% of cases; 70% of hyperandrogenism cases feature polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a complex endocrine and metabolic condition. Genetic susceptibility occurs in 80% of acne cases, often with familial inheritance. Beyond classical stepwise therapeutic protocols (topical agents, isotretinoin, antibiotics, hormonal therapy with estrogens, progestins, spironolactone), novel approaches include the highly effective topical antiandrogen clascoterone, the management of insulin resistance by diet, exercise, stress avoidance, and adjuvant therapies such as berberine. Vaccines against the pathogenic proinflammatory C. acnes hyaluronidase A are in development.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Nicotinamide Riboside Ameliorates Hyperpigmentation on Photo-Irradiated Skin
by
Yeon Jae Lee, Seul Gi Jang, Min Jeong Ryu and Seung Hee Choi
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 73; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030073 - 5 May 2024
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Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) is one of the most important and essential components within an organism. Extensive ongoing research is aimed at harnessing its potential in managing diverse diseases by supplying various forms of NAD in its oxidized state, NAD+. Ultraviolet
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Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) is one of the most important and essential components within an organism. Extensive ongoing research is aimed at harnessing its potential in managing diverse diseases by supplying various forms of NAD in its oxidized state, NAD+. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the most common environmental exposure factor, but also carries many risks. UVR affects the epidermis and contributes to sunburn, photo-allergy, DNA damage, and certain cancers, notably melanoma. Research has shown that NAD+ precursors, including nicotinamide riboside (NR), reduce melanogenesis in aged melanocytes. In this study, we used NR to determine whether melanin hyperpigmentation was suppressed after light stimulation. We found that melanogenesis was inhibited when B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone were exposed to specific doses of NR. Additionally, tyrosinase activity (a key step in melanin production) was suppressed. However, there was no difference in the expression level of melanogenic genes. Ultraviolet B light directly stimulated HaCaT cells, inducing the RNA expression of metalloproteinases. Treatment with NR suppressed the corresponding gene expression and reduced cytotoxicity. This study demonstrates the possibility of using NR as a new skin-whitening ingredient due to its inhibitory effect on hyperpigmentation and ability to maintain skin layers affected by UVR.
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Open AccessReview
Cosmetic Formulations from Natural Sources: Safety Considerations and Legislative Frameworks in the European Union
by
Maame Ekua Manful, Lubna Ahmed and Catherine Barry-Ryan
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 72; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030072 - 4 May 2024
Abstract
Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout
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Consumer preferences, safety, and sustainability aspects of conventional cosmetic ingredients have contributed to an increase in the demand for natural cosmetic ingredients and products. Naturally derived active cosmetic agents and excipients may come into contact with various naturally occurring and synthetic contaminants throughout the supply chain, and substantiating their safety is essential. This review examines the safety and legislative requirements applicable to natural cosmetic ingredients in the European Union (EU). Cosmetic safety requirements include technical data based on the ingredient profile, presence of hazards and the risks associated with the intended conditions of use. The hazard analysis includes screening for microbial contaminants such as aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans; chemical contaminants such as lead, cadmium, arsenic, and mercury; and naturally occurring toxins, such as allergens. The toxicological assessment considers both local effects (such as skin sensitisation, eye/skin irritation, and photo-induced effects) and systemic effects (including acute dermal toxicity, sub-acute and sub-chronic toxicity, mutagenicity and carcinogenicity, reproductive toxicity, and toxicokinetics). The EU legislative requirements prohibit the use of animal-based tests for the toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients, paving the way for alternatives termed as New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). The validation of NAMs is critical for their wider usage, and despite advancements, few have been validated, particularly for systemic toxicity testing. The use of NAMs in evaluating the safety of complex natural cosmetic ingredients is further examined.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Open AccessArticle
Efficacy and Safety of Monopolar Radiofrequency for Tightening the Skin of Aged Faces
by
JungMin Shin, Yeounkuk Sung, Soyoung Jin, Cho-Long Hwang, Hyunjung Kim, Dongkyun Hong, Kyung Eun Jung, Young-Joon Seo and Young Lee
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030071 - 3 May 2024
Abstract
Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this
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Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this therapy using various skin testing devices. Methods: Twenty women with aged faces participated in this study. After a single monopolar RF treatment, three blinded dermatologists who were not involved in the treatment evaluated its clinical efficacy and safety after 4, 12, and 24 weeks. Skin firmness, fine wrinkles, skin pores, and skin tone were also measured using an indentometer (Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) and a facial aging measurement device (Mark-Vu; PSI Plus, Suwon-si, Republic of Korea). Results: Skin laxity in the jowls and nasolabial folds showed significant improvement 12 weeks after the single monopolar RF treatment when evaluated by dermatologists, and this improvement lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Moreover, the participants reported improvement at 4 weeks compared to baseline which lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Skin firmness measured in the cheek increased 4 weeks after treatment and continued to improve during 24 weeks of follow-up (p < 0.01). Although there was a gradual increase in improvement in skin pores, fine wrinkles, and skin tones, there were no statistical differences compared to the baseline. No patients experienced pain during the treatment, and no burns, skin breakdown, or scarring occurred after treatment. Conclusions: A single monopolar RF treatment is effective for females with aged face. A significant improvement in the jowls and nasolabial folds and facial skin firmness was observed between the 4- and 24-week follow-ups without adverse effects.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Advancing Lip Augmentation: State-of-the-Art 2D and 3D Analysis for Assessing Volume Enhancement and Lip Line Redefinition
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Ritamaria Di Lorenzo, Lucia Ricci, Eleonora Vardaro, Teresa Di Serio, Elena Morelli and Sonia Laneri
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 70; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030070 - 3 May 2024
Abstract
Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume
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Over the preceding five decades, there has been a noticeable surge in the pursuit of achieving voluminous and well-defined lips. This trend has prompted an escalating number of individuals to undergo lip augmentation procedures, aiming for a natural three-dimensional enhancement of lip volume and distinct vermilion borders. Despite the proliferation of lip augmentation techniques, there remains a dearth of comprehensive investigations into their precise effects on the three-dimensional structural integrity of the lips. This research endeavors to address this gap by employing stereophotogrammetry as a quantitative tool to scrutinize lip augmentation outcomes and to appraise the efficacy of lip plumpers. The study methodology involves a comparative analysis of lip dimensions among subjects treated with a commercial lip plumper using multi-spectral imaging for lip dimension assessment, coupled with markerless tracking technology and 3D interpolating surface methodology to analyze lip volume and shape. Additionally, the study evaluated lip youth state, including moisture level, softness, firmness, and tissue density. The demand for lip augmentation procedures is driven by perceived advantages such as quick recovery and minimal risk. Therefore, it is crucial to substantiate their efficacy with robust findings. The investigation suggests that both 3D and 2D stereophotogrammetry techniques are reliable for evaluating lip size before and after augmentation, whether through cosmetic or aesthetic approaches. Overall, the study provides a comprehensive analysis of a lip treatment aimed at enhancing volume and redesigning lip lines. It demonstrates that stereophotogrammetry is effective for assessing 3D lip dimensions and their correlation with internal lip structure. This research could be particularly valuable for evaluating the efficacy and duration of various lip enhancement techniques, including dermal fillers, implants, and topical cosmetic formulations, offering quantitative and reproducible assessments over time.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Artichoke Leaf Extract Effectiveness on the Skin Aging Exposome: Efficacy and Safety Results of a Split-Face Study
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Gloria Roveda, Enza Cestone, Francesca De Gennaro, Andrea Poggi, Violetta Insolia, Vincenzo Zaccaria and Vincenzo Nobile
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 69; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030069 - 3 May 2024
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The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM).
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The skin is a barrier organ subjected to lifelong exposure to internal and external factors influencing both its biological response and appearance. A randomized split-face study was carried out on 22 adult female outdoor workers using an artichoke leaf extract (CynageTM). The product’s efficacy was measured before and after 28 days of use. The following skin parameters were measured: wrinkle depth, skin roughness, and radiance, to assess the product’s effect on the skin appearance; Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power (FRAP), to assess the total antioxidant capacity; and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, to assess the anti-inflammatory efficacy. These parameters were also integrated by the evaluation of the subjective perception of product efficacy. After 28 days of product use, the skin’s appearance improved as follows: wrinkle depth and skin roughness decreased by 5.2% and 7.0%, respectively, while the skin radiance increased by 19.0%. The total antioxidant capacity of the skin increased by 20.2%. The skin’s TNF-α levels decreased by 8.2%. The product efficacy was also perceived by the subjects participating in the study. The product was well tolerated. Our findings demonstrate the active role of the ingredient in decreasing the skin damage induced by the exposome.
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Open AccessArticle
Development of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Olive Extract and Spirulina sp.: Stability and Clinical Efficacy Studies
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Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa and Patricia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 68; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030068 - 1 May 2024
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Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP).
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Cosmetic formulations with natural antioxidants can reduce the oxidative stress caused by solar radiation and pollution. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing olive extract (OE) and Spirulina sp. (SP). For this, rheological behavior, texture, and sensory properties were evaluated. In addition, 31 healthy women with an age of 39 to 60 years, with skin phototypes II and III, and the presence of signs of photoaging on the face were recruited and divided in Group 1 (vehicle formulation) and Group 2 (vehicle with active substances) for this clinical efficacy study. Both groups applied sunscreen daily during the day. The formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviors and good sensory properties. The clinical evaluation using instrumental measurements showed an increase in skin hydration, an improvement of the skin barrier, and morphological characteristics of the epidermis after 12 weeks of application of the formulations. There was a significant increase in the brightness of the stratum corneum, which suggested a film-forming effect. In addition, both groups had an improvement in the dermis echogenicity, due to the use of sunscreens. Finally, the proposed formulation was effective in protecting the skin and reducing skin changes related to photoaging.
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Open AccessEditorial
Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry
by
Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030067 - 30 Apr 2024
Abstract
There is no doubt that chemistry has provided countless products that have improved people’s lives in almost every aspect [...]
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry)
Open AccessCorrection
Correction: Sritananuwat et al. Effectiveness and Safety of Boesenbergia rotunda Extract on 3T3-L1 Preadipocytes and Its Use in Capsaicin-Loaded Body-Firming Formulation: In Vitro Biological Study and In Vivo Human Study. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 24
by
Phaijit Sritananuwat, Tipada Samseethong, Kusuma Jitsaeng, Sureewan Duangjit, Praneet Opanasopit and Worranan Rangsimawong
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030066 - 25 Apr 2024
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In the original publication [...]
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Open AccessArticle
Stability and Retention of Nanoemulsion Formulations Incorporating Lavender Essential Oil
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Konstantina Flekka, Virginia D. Dimaki, Elena Mourelatou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis, Fotini N. Lamari and Sophia Hatziantoniou
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030065 - 23 Apr 2024
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential skincare applications. The LEO carrier impact on skin hydration and barrier function was also evaluated. Conventional emulsions (CEs) and nanoemulsions (NEs) with (CELs and NELs, respectively) and without LEO incorporation were analyzed for physicochemical properties, stability, and release mechanisms. The droplet size distribution and ζ-potential remained consistent in both CE and CEL, showing the minimal influence of LEO on those parameters. NE and NEL exhibited enhanced stability and higher LEO retention compared to CE and CEL (37.38 mg/mL ± 0.48 mg/mL and 50.96 mg/mL ± 2.00 mg/mL, respectively, p < 0.05), suggesting NE as a superior carrier system for LEO delivery. NEL retained LEO over 60 days at 4 °C without a significant reduction while CEL showed a notable reduction of 94.93% ± 0.08%. Release kinetics analysis showed zero-order release kinetics of LEO from both CEL and NEL (R2: 0.973 and 0.952, respectively), revealing a diffusion-based mechanism, particularly evident in NE formulations, supporting the controlled and sustained release of LEO constituents. NEL also promoted quicker skin barrier repair and enhanced skin hydration, sustaining effects for up to 120 min post application, surpassing CEL’s performance. These findings contribute to understanding the carrier system effects on LEO delivery and underscore NE as a promising vehicle for skincare applications. Further research should explore underlying mechanisms and conduct long-term safety and efficacy studies to fully exploit the therapeutic potential of NE in dermatological applications.
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Open AccessArticle
Impact of Hair Damage on the Penetration Profile of Coconut, Avocado, and Argan Oils into Caucasian Hair Fibers
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Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Gustavo Carlos da Silva, Airton Abrahao Martin, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020064 - 21 Apr 2024
Abstract
The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers,
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The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers, given the associated benefits for hair fibers. While coconut oil is highly popular in the hair care market and extensively studied for its ability to diffuse through the hair cortex, the effects of avocado and argan oil on the internal structure of hair and their potential benefits remain underexplored. Tensile and fatigue tests, as well as Raman spectroscopy, were carried out to investigate the interaction of these three oils with virgin and bleached Caucasian hair. The oils were applied in sufficient amounts directly to hair tresses and maintained for 24 h at 25 °C. Our results show that the three oils successfully diffused and interacted with the cortical region of the hairs. Their impact on hair mechanical properties depends on the level of damage and humidity conditions. In virgin hair, coconut and avocado oil reinforce the hydrophobic barrier of the cellular membrane complex, preventing water from causing intense perturbation of the mechanical properties, leading to increased stiffness and break stress. Meanwhile, due to the high degree of unsaturation of its fatty acid chains, argan oil increases water absorption, resulting in losses in hair resistance. When bleached, the hydrophilicity of the hair fiber increases, determining more affinity for argan oil. Consequently, the affinity with water is also elevated, causing increased fragility to mechanical stress. The analyzed vegetable oils are not always beneficial for hair care. Their specific chemical characteristics and hair conditions will influence the final results and should be taken into consideration in hair care product development.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
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Open AccessArticle
Preparation and Characterization of a Topical Delivery System for Nanoemulsions Using a Composite Film of Pectin and Tapioca
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Luciana Agostinho and Pedro Rocha-Filho
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020063 - 18 Apr 2024
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients and the skin. This can be achieved through various mechanisms, two of which are occlusion and extended contact of the formulation with the skin. Cosmetic masks can be used to improve the skin’s hydration by creating a barrier that minimizes transepidermal water loss while acting as a repository of the active ingredient, increasing the skin’s absorption of the formulation’s active ingredients. In order to diminish the environmental impact, natural-polymeric-material masks are being used, as an alternative to synthetic materials, for its biocompatibility and biodegradability. In this work pectin and tapioca starch were used to develop a polymeric mask to deliver a rice bran oil nanoemulsion and study some characteristics of the final product. The results show that the association of pectin and tapioca starch can be used to produce a film that can be molded and shows occlusive effects, besides being flexible and compatible with the skin.
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Open AccessArticle
Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract
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Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale and Ana López Sánchez
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020062 - 17 Apr 2024
Abstract
The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here
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The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessCommunication
Blending Hyaluronic Acid and Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Injectable Facial Dermal Fillers: A Clinical and Ultrasonography Assessment
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Bruna Bravo, Raquel Carvalho, Leonardo Bravo, Laís Penedo and Mariana Elias
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020061 - 17 Apr 2024
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic improvement of facial skin laxity using a blending technique that admixes HA and CaHA. Fifteen regular patients, including three men, between 25 and 71 years of age were reported. The participants were subjects who came regularly to the dermatologic office seeking a lifting effect without surgery. They were submitted to injection of an admixture of HA and CaHA and followed for 180 days. The clinical assessment consisted of photographic evaluation by two blind investigators, and a consensual subjective evaluation was performed by the physicians (PGAIS) using the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale. Dermal thickness was analyzed in jaw areas using high-frequency ultrasound. Subjects completed a satisfaction questionnaire with responses scored according to the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) to evaluate patient satisfaction. After 180 days of follow-up, clinical assessments by blinded physicians found that all patients improved. All the participants were highly satisfied with the results and reported exceptional improvement. Dermal thickness increased by 9.4% (8.2–10.8%), 14.0% (12.2–15.9%), and 18.8% (16.2–21.9%) at D90, D120, and D180, respectively, by ultrasonography. In conclusion, an injection technique using an admixture of CaHA and HA fillers was well tolerated, offering high satisfaction and long-lasting progressive benefits. The authors believe that this procedure optimizes the treatment time and results because HA promotes early volume restoration and CaHA stimulates long-term dermal remodeling through the synthesis of collagen and elastin.
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Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach toward Sustainable Formulations
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Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto and Alessandra Semenzato
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020060 - 15 Apr 2024
Abstract
Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable
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Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Formulation and Characterization of Non-Toxic, Antimicrobial, and Alcohol-Free Hand Sanitizer Nanoemulgel Based on Lemon Peel Extract
by
Faten Mohamed Ibrahim, Eman Samy Shalaby, Mohamed Azab El-Liethy, Sherif Abd-Elmaksoud, Reda Sayed Mohammed, Said I. Shalaby, Cristina V. Rodrigues, Manuela Pintado and El Sayed El Habbasha
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020059 - 12 Apr 2024
Abstract
Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan
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Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan gum as a gelling agent and stabilizer, were developed and characterized as a novel alternative. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear-thinning flow behavior, particle size values below 200 nm, and increasing zeta potential with higher xanthan gum concentrations. All nanoemulgel formulations exhibited greater in vitro phenolic compound release than free LE. LN-F2 (1.0% LE, 20.0% mineral oil, 20.0% Span 80, 4.0% Cremophor RH 40, 4.0% PEG 400, 0.5% xanthan gum, 50.5% dH2O) was selected as the optimal formulation due to improved characteristics. LE and LN-F2 potential cytotoxicity was assessed on MA-104, showing no significant cellular morphological alterations up to 10 mg/mL for both samples. LN-F2 showed in vitro antimicrobial activity against E. coli, S. Typhimurium, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, L. monocytogenes, and C. albicans, as well as antiviral activity against phiX 174, but no effect against rotavirus (SA-11). In vivo, LN-F2 presented a removal capacity of 83% to 100% for bacteria and 89% to 100% for fungi. These findings suggest that the formulated nanoemulgel holds potential as a safe and effective antiseptic, providing a viable alternative to commercial alcohol-based formulations.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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