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Cosmetics

Cosmetics is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI. 

Quartile Ranking JCR - Q1 (Dermatology)

All Articles (1,383)

Naturally derived cosmetic enzymes from food-grade plant sources are increasingly sought after as sustainable and skin-compatible alternatives to conventional exfoliating agents; however, many existing plant proteases exhibit poor thermal stability, limiting their practical use in cosmetic formulations. In this study, a thermostable keratinolytic protease extracted from Momordica charantia (bitter melon), a widely consumed edible and medicinal plant, was characterized to overcome these limitations and evaluated for its cosmetic applicability. The enzyme demonstrated strong keratin-degrading activity and retained over 80% of its activity at 70 °C, indicating superior thermal stability compared with commonly used cosmetic enzymes. In vitro assays using RAW264.7 murine macrophages confirmed low cytotoxicity and revealed significant inhibition of lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production, along with moderate elastase inhibitory activity, suggesting additional skin-beneficial properties. To assess practical exfoliating efficacy and skin compatibility, a four-week in-use test was conducted with 11 healthy adult volunteers using a formulation containing the M. charantia-derived enzyme. Significant reductions in desquamation index and improvements in skin smoothness (SEsm), measured using a Visioscan® VC20 Plus, and hydration, assessed with a Corneometer® CM825, were observed (p < 0.001), with no adverse effects reported. Collectively, these findings indicate that this naturally sourced, plant-derived keratinase offers a thermally stable and effective enzymatic exfoliation strategy, supporting its potential use as a sustainable cosmetic bioactive ingredient.

11 February 2026

Biochemical characterization of bitter melon–derived keratinase in comparison with plant-derived comparators. (A) Protein concentrations of crude enzyme extracts obtained from bitter melon (BM), papaya (CP), and date palm (PD). (B) Keratinolytic activity of each extract, determined by absorbance at 595 nm following a 5-day incubation with keratin azure (pH 7.0, 37 °C), using equal protein amounts. (C) Thermal stability of enzyme solutions derived from BM and CP after incubation at varying temperatures for 5 days. (D) pH stability of BM and CP enzymes following 5-day incubation under a range of pH conditions. (E) Inhibitory effects of selected protease inhibitors (10 µM EDTA, 1 µM pepstatin A, and 3.7 µM E-64) on the keratin-degrading activity of BM and CP enzymes. All activity values were normalized to the control (no inhibitor), set at 100%. (F) Short-term thermal stability of BM-derived enzyme and papain after 1 h heat treatment. Activities were normalized to untreated controls (set to 100%). Data are presented as mean ± SD (n = 3). Statistical significance was evaluated using Student’s t-test (p &lt; 0.001).

Essential oils are widely used in cosmetic products and are valued for their antimicrobial properties. In this study, the in vitro antimicrobial activity of five pure essential oils (EOs) and five commercially available EO blends was comparatively evaluated against six skin-associated pathogens: Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida lusitaniae and Candida guilliermondii. Chemical profiling of volatile constituents was performed using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry; antimicrobial activity was assessed by broth microdilution to determine minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), as well as spot-inoculation to determine minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC). Results revealed microorganism-dependent inhibitory and bactericidal activity of the tested essential oils. Candida spp. and E. coli were the most susceptible microorganisms, whereas P. aeruginosa exhibited the lowest susceptibility to essential oils. Pinus sylvestris showed comparatively lower MIC and MBC values across most tested microorganisms. Commercial EO blends showed comparable antimicrobial activity to individual essential oils. Overall, this study provides a comparative in vitro screening of selected essential oils and commercial blends relevant to cosmetic applications, indicating that EO blends do not exhibit superior antimicrobial activity over pure oils under the tested conditions.

10 February 2026

Principal component analysis of predominant compounds in tested essential oils and their blends.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and telogen effluvium (TE) are common hair loss disorders characterized by dysregulated hair follicle cycling and impaired dermal papilla cell function. Emerging evidence indicates that exosomes are key mediators of intercellular communication, largely through their microRNA (miRNA) cargo. Milk-derived exosomes (Mi-Exos) represent an accessible and biologically active source of regulatory miRNAs with potential relevance for hair disorders. This study evaluated the in vitro effects of bovine milk-derived exosomes (MEV-miRNAs) on human hair follicles. MEV-miRNAs were enriched in miRNA families (Let-7, miR-21, miR-30, miR-200, and miR-148/152) previously implicated in hair follicle regulation. Viability/metabolic activity of hair follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells was assessed, and human hair follicles were cultured ex vivo to measure shaft elongation and modulation of the WNT signaling pathway by qRT-PCR. MEV-miRNAs significantly increased HFDP cell viability after 24 h compared with controls. Human hair follicles showed a non-significant trend toward increased elongation following treatment. Gene expression analysis revealed significant up-regulation of key WNT pathway components, including WNT2, WNT5B, WNT10A, WNT11, MMP7, WISP1, and NKD1, indicating modulation of WNT-associated pathways implicated in hair follicle growth and cycling. Overall, MEV-miRNAs exhibit positive modulatory effects on signaling pathways, supporting their potential as a novel therapeutic strategy for AGA and TE.

10 February 2026

Milk exosomes versus conventional nanocarriers as advanced dermal delivery systems.

Oily skin is a prevalent dermatological condition characterized by excessive sebum production, due to hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands. In this study, a randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted on 22 subjects with combination to oily skin to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic cream containing a standardized amount of isorhamnetin extract from prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica), applied twice daily over a 28-day period. Efficacy assessments included instrumental measurements of skin sebum content, Sebum Excretion Rate (SER), pore size, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, skin microbiome composition, and lipid profile. Additionally, the study included an assessment of participants’ subjective perception. After 14 and 28 days of product use, respectively, a significant reduction in skin sebum content was observed, with decreases of 13.1% and 21.1% on the forehead, and 10.4% and 15.8% in the alar groove. This reduction in sebum levels was associated with a mattifying effect lasting up to 7.1 h, a 37.2% decrease in the sebum excretion rate (SER), and a 9.6% reduction in pore size. The TNF- α levels decreased by 7.4%. The extract was well tolerated by the skin microbiome, which remained stable. Additionally, analysis of the skin lipid profile revealed an increase in both ceramide and triacylglycerol levels. Overall, our findings demonstrate the role of the extract in modulating sebaceous gland activity, improving skin appearance, reducing inflammation, and supporting barrier integrity and hydration in individuals with oily skin.

9 February 2026

Schematic representation of the oily-skin loop and its modulation by PURYFLOWER™. Extrinsic factors (cosmetics, pollution, diet) and intrinsic factors (hormonal and genetic) converge to promote oxidative stress and inflammation (ROS, TNF-α), as well as increased 5α-reductase activity and sebocyte overproliferation. These processes enhance sebum production, leading to lipid alteration and microbial imbalance, which in turn further amplify oxidative and inflammatory signaling, establishing a self-reinforcing “oily-skin loop”.

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Cosmetics - ISSN 2079-9284