Search Results (131)

Collecting accurate and reliable beach morphology data is essential for informed coastal management. The beach adjacent to the seawall on North Padre Island, Texas, USA has experienced increased erosion and disrupted natural processes. City ordinance mandates the placement of bollards to restrict vehicular traffic when the beach width from the seawall toe to mean high water (MHW) is less than 45.7 m. To aid the City of Corpus Christi’s understanding of seasonal beach changes, mobile lidar scanning (MLS) surveys with a mapping-grade system were conducted in February, June, September, and November 2023, and post-nourishment in March 2024. Concurrent uncrewed aircraft system (UAS) photogrammetry surveys were performed in February and November 2023, and March 2024 to aid beach monitoring analysis and for comparative assessment to the MLS data. MLS-derived digital elevation models (DEMs) were used to evaluate seasonal geomorphology, including beach slope, width, shoreline position, and volume change. Because MHW was submerged during all surveys, highest astronomical tide (HAT) was used for shoreline analyses. HAT-based results indicated that bollards should be placed from approximately 390 to 560 m from the northern end of the seawall, varying seasonally. The March 2024 post-nourishment survey showed 102,462 m³ of sand was placed on the beach, extending the shoreline by more than 40 m in some locations. UAS photogrammetry-derived DEMs were compared to the MLS-derived DEMs, revealing mean HAT position differences of 0.02 m in February 2023 and 0.98 m in November 2023. Elevation and volume assessments showed variability between the MLS and UAS-SfM DEMs, with neither indicating consistently higher or lower values. Full article

This study addresses the longevity of beach nourishment in a high-energy coastal environment. It focuses on a site along the Northern Portuguese Atlantic coast, characterized by intense littoral drift, in the order of 1 million m³ and N–S oriented. The region undergoes an erosion process, and some localities are protected by groynes and frontal defense structures. The longevity of beach nourishment is evaluated through a coastline evolution model (previously calibrated and validated), compared for three scenarios: the absence of nourishment, i.e., the “do nothing” scenario; a (one-shot) 4 million m³ of sand nourishment intervention; and a detached breakwater combined with nourishment. The recent morphological evolution of the study site is evaluated through the results of a four-year (2018–2021) topobathymetric monitoring program implemented by the Portuguese Environment Agency. The lifespan of the nourishment ranges from 4.5 to 7.5 years. While the detached breakwater significantly increases the beach width to the north, it also exacerbates sediment loss to the south, regardless of its position. However, after 10 years, the cumulative sediment balance for the combined scenario closely mirrors that of the nourishment-only approach. The discussion of these results includes reflections on the longer-term impacts of using coarser sediments (relative to native material) on coastline evolution and on the influence of the breakwater’s layout on nourishment longevity. Full article

This study investigates the causes and consequences of shoreline erosion at Kkotji Beach, a prominent tourist destination on the west coast of South Korea, where the degradation of the coastal environment has increasingly threatened the local tourism industry and economy, by employing a mixed-methods approach that combines field observations with MIKE 21 hydrodynamic simulations and by integrating perspectives from coastal engineering and the social sciences to develop practical, site-specific strategies for mitigating erosion, enhancing public awareness, and promoting sustainable coastal planning and development that support long-term environmental resilience and economic stability. The results show that dominant ebb currents drive southward sand transport, causing persistent northern erosion despite nourishment and highlighting the need for integrated management across engineering, policy, and community engagement. Full article

This work, conducted within the framework of the international network CRESTE (Coastal Resilience Using Satellites), examines the role of resilience in monitoring coastal evolution across diverse environments in Europe (France, The Netherlands), America (Mexico), Asia (China), and Oceania (Australia). High-resolution morphological datasets, derived from in situ measurements and video monitoring systems, were analyzed for wave- and tide-dominated beaches influenced by both climatic drivers and anthropogenic pressures. Findings indicate that beach resilience is strongly linked to system resistance, which depends on the intensity of climate drivers, including storm frequency, and site-specific conditions related to the type of sediment and its availability, and the presence of anthropogenic activities including coastal structures (e.g., Normandy, Yucatán) and shoreface nourishments (Netherlands). In Batemans Bay (Australia) and Hangzhou Bay (China), assessing the resilience is particularly challenging due to the combined influence of multiple drivers, fluvial inputs, and urban development. Accurate monitoring of coastal resilience across timescales requires accounting for long-term morphological, ecological, and socio-economic processes. This can be enhanced through satellite observations, which, when integrated with in situ measurements, numerical modeling, and artificial intelligence, support a more comprehensive assessment of resilience and refine projections under future climate change and sea-level rise; representing a key focus for further works. Full article

Coastal profile models are frequently used for the computation of storm-induced erosion at (nourished) beaches. Attention is focused on new developments and new validation exercises for the detailed process-based CROSMOR-model for the computation of storm-induced morphological changes in sand and gravel coasts. The following new model improvements are studied: (1) improved runup equations based on the available field data; (2) the inclusion of the uniformity coefficient (C_u = d₆₀/d₁₀) of the bed material affecting the settling velocity of the suspended sediment and thus the suspended sediment transport; (3) the inclusion of hard bottom layers, so that the effect of a submerged breakwater on the beach–dune morphology can be assessed; and (4) the determination of adequate model settings for the accretive and erosive conditions of coarse gravel–shingle types of coasts (sediment range of 2 to 40 mm). The improved model has been extensively validated for sand and gravel coasts using the available field data sets. Furthermore, a series of sensitivity computations have been made to study the numerical parameters (time step, grid size and bed-smoothing) and key physical parameters (sediment size, wave height, wave incidence angle, wave asymmetry and wave-induced undertow), conditions affecting the beach morphodynamic processes. Finally, the model has been used to study various alternative methods of reducing beach erosion. Full article

Coastal erosion is a growing concern in the Mediterranean region, where the combined effects of anthropogenic pressure, reduced fluvial sediment supply, and climate change-driven sea level rise and extreme storm events threaten the stability of sandy shorelines. This study examines the geomorphological impacts of the exceptional storm surge of 3 November 2023, associated with Storm Ciaran, which affected a vulnerable coastal segment north of the Morto Nuovo River in northern Tuscany (Italy). Using UAV-based photogrammetric surveys and high-resolution morphological analysis, we quantified shoreline retreat, dune toe regression, beach slope changes, and sediment volume loss. The storm induced an average shoreline retreat of over 5 m, with local peaks reaching 30 m, and a dune toe setback of up to 7 m. A net sediment budget deficit of approximately 1800 m³ was recorded, over 50% of the total volume added during soft nourishment interventions performed in the previous decade. Our findings highlight how a single high-energy event can match or exceed the annual average erosion rate, emphasizing the limitations of traditional shoreline-based monitoring and hard defense structures. This study highlights the importance of frequent, high-resolution monitoring focused on individual storm events, which is crucial to better understand their specific geomorphological impacts. Such detailed analyses help clarify whether long-term erosion trends are primarily driven by the cumulative effect of high-energy events. This knowledge is essential for identifying the most effective coastal protection strategies and for improving the design of defense structures. This approach is particularly relevant in the context of climate change, which is expected to increase the frequency and intensity of extreme events, making it imperative to base future planning on accurate, event-driven data. Full article

Posidonia oceanica seagrass, endemic to the Mediterranean Sea, provides ecological goods and ecosystem services of paramount importance. In shallow and sheltered bays, P. oceanica meadows can reach the sea surface, with leaf tips slightly emerging, forming fringing and barrier reefs. During the 20th century, P. oceanica declined conspicuously in the vicinity of large ports and urbanized areas, particularly in the north-western Mediterranean. The main causes of decline are land reclamation, anchoring, bottom trawling, turbidity and pollution. Artificial sand nourishment of beaches has also been called into question, with sand flowing into the sea, burying and destroying neighbouring meadows. A fringing reef of P. oceanica, located at Saint-Mandrier-sur-Mer, near the port of Toulon (Provence, France), is severely degraded. Analysis of aerial photos shows that, since the beginning of the 2000s, it has remained stable in some parts or continued to decline in others. This contrasts with the trend towards recovery, observed in France, thanks to e.g., the legally protected status of P. oceanica, and the reduction of pollution and coastal developments. The sand nourishment of the study beach, renewed every year, with the sand being washed or blown very quickly (within a few months) from the beach into the sea, burying the P. oceanica meadow, seems the most likely explanation. Other factors, such as pollution, trampling by beachgoers and overgrazing, may also play a role in the decline. Full article

Hydrotechnical structures reshape sandy coasts by altering hydrodynamics and sediment transport, yet their long-term effects on sediment texture remain underexplored, particularly in the Baltic Sea. This study investigates the spatial and temporal variations in sediment grain size near two ports (Šventoji and Klaipėda) on the sandy Baltic Sea coast, considering the influence of jetties, nourishment, and geological framework. A total of 246 surface sand samples were collected from beach and foredune zones between 1993 and 2018. These samples were analyzed in relation to shoreline changes, hydrodynamic data, and geological context. The results show that sediment texture is most affected within 1–2 km downdrift and up to 4–5 km updrift of port structures. Downdrift areas tend to contain coarser, poorly sorted sediments because of erosion and the exposure of deeper strata, while updrift zones accumulate finer, well-sorted sands via longshore transport. In the long term, the geological framework controls sediment characteristics. In the medium term, introduced material that differs in grain size from natural beach sediments may alter the texture of the sediment, either coarsening or refining it. The latter slowly returns to its natural texture. Short-term changes are driven by storm events. These findings highlight the importance of integrating structural interventions, nourishment practices, and geological understanding for sustainable coastal management. Full article

Coastal areas are increasingly vulnerable to erosion, a process that can lead to severe consequences such as flooding and land loss. This study investigates strategies for preventing and mitigating coastal erosion, with a particular focus on nature-based solutions, notably artificial sand nourishment. Artificial nourishment has proven to be an effective method for erosion control. However, its success depends on factors such as the placement location, sediment volume, and frequency of operations. To optimize these interventions, simulations were conducted using both a numerical model (CS-Model) and a physical flume model, based on the same cross-section beach/dune profile, to compare cross-shore nourishment performance across different scenarios. The numerical modeling approach is presented first, including a description of the reference prototype-scale scenario. This is followed by an overview of the physical modeling, detailing the experimental 2D cross-section flume setup and tested scenarios. These scenarios simulate nourishment interventions with variations in beach profile, aiming to assess the influence of water level, berm width, bar volume, and bar geometry. The results from both numerical and physical simulations are presented, focusing on the cross-shore morphological response of the beach profile under wave action, particularly the effects on profile shape, water level, bar volume, and the position and depth of the bar crest. The main conclusion highlights that a wider initial berm leads to greater wave energy dissipation, thereby contributing to the mitigation of dune erosion. Full article

Reliable coastal and offshore sediment transport data is a requirement for many engineering and environmental projects including port and harbour design, dredging and beach nourishment, sea shoreline protection, inland navigation, marine pollution monitoring, benthic habitat mapping, and offshore renewable energy (ORE). Novel sediment transport numerical modelling approaches allow engineers and scientists to investigate the physical interactions involved in these projects both in the near and far field. However, a lack of confidence in simulated sediment transport results is evident in many coastal and offshore studies, mainly due to limited access to validation datasets. This study addresses the need for cost-effective sediment validation datasets by investigating the applicability of four new suspended load validation techniques to a 2D model of the south-western Irish Sea. This involves integrating an estimated spatial time series of suspended solids concentration (${SSC}_{solids}$) derived from acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) acoustic backscatter with several in situ water sample-based ${SSC}_{solids}$ datasets. Ultimately, a robust spatial time series of ADCP-based ${SSC}_{solids}$ was successfully calculated in this offshore, tidally dominated setting, where the correlation coefficient between estimated ${SSC}_{solids}$ and directly measured ${SSC}_{solids}$ is 0.87. Three out of the four assessed validation techniques are deemed advantageous in developing an accurate 2D suspended sediment transport model given the assumptions of the depth-integrated approach. These recommended techniques include (i) the validation of 2D modelled suspended sediment concentration (${SSC}_{sediment}$) using water sample-based ${SSC}_{solids}$, (ii) the validation of the flood–ebb characteristics of 2D modelled suspended load transport and ${SSC}_{sediment}$ using ADCP-based datasets, and (iii) the validation of the 2D modelled peak ${SSC}_{sediment}$ over a spring–neap cycle using the ADCP-based ${SSC}_{solids}$. Overall, the multi-disciplinary method of collecting in situ metocean and sediment dynamic data via acoustic instruments (ADCPs) is a cost-effective in situ data collection method for future ORE developments and other engineering and scientific projects. Full article

China has the world’s largest area of coastal aquaculture ponds, accounting for 39% of the total coastal aquaculture pond area worldwide. The rapid development of coastal aquaculture can significantly reduce global food shortages and support the development of marine economies on the Chinese mainland. However, coastal aquaculture ponds have been recognized as a beach hazard because they require pipes to be laid on the surface of the beach to discharge wastewater, polluting the beach and artificially dividing it into multiple segments. Based on a well-conceived remote sensing analysis, the erosion of beaches backed by densely distributed coastal aquaculture ponds was determined to be 10 m/y. A high-efficiency shoreline evolution model was verified using a satellite-derived shoreline dataset. For the present case, the Brier Skill Score (BSS) was calculated to be 0.55, indicating a moderate match between the modeled and satellite-derived shoreline datasets. The verified ShorelineS model was then used to predict the future evolution of a shoreline backed by densely distributed coastal aquacultural ponds. The retreat distance of the erosion hotspot was predicted to increase from 150 m in 2025 to 240 m in 2040. It is expected that the beach will lose the entirety of its dry part in the future. Potential strategies for beach protection include reasonable management and the ecological restoration and nourishment of the beach. Full article

Meiofauna are frequently overlooked in biodiversity assessments, resulting in a lack of understanding regarding their current status, the potential impact of anthropogenic activities, and climate change. This study on the intertidal zone of the Small Beach of Ostend marks a new effort to characterize meiofaunal communities along the Belgian coast. Sampling was carried out on five separate occasions throughout the year, with abiotic data collected during each event. Collected specimens were sorted according to their taxonomic group, resulting in a retrieval of 1742 organisms. Among these, Platyhelminthes and Nematoda were most abundant. Through metabarcoding of the 18S ribosomal region, a biodiversity assessment was conducted, yielding a total of 106 Amplicon Sequence Variants (ASVs). After filtering out rare reads, 65 metazoan ASVs were retained: 18 representing Platyhelminthes, 16 Nematoda, 15 Copepoda, 12 Polychaeta, and 4 Acoela. Identification of the ASVs through blasting generated 23 unique species-level identifications. The highest species richness was observed among Proseriata and Nematoda, each comprising six different species. Additionally, four different species of Polychaeta and Copepoda, two species of Acoela, and one species of Rhabdocoela were identified. Compared to findings on similar beaches along the Belgian coast from about 40 years ago, the meiofaunal communities on this beach exhibit an overall low species richness. Finding fewer and other species might be linked to the potential impact of beach nourishments, human trampling, and climate change. However, confirming this hypothesis requires future research. Full article

This work reports the findings of an investigation aimed at assessing, for the first time, the natural and anthropogenic radioactivity content of marine sediments collected from selected areas of Sicily, Southern Italy. In particular, it focused on evaluating the average activity concentration of detected radionuclides and the radiological hazard for humans, above all considering the use of this material for nourishing actual eroded beaches. To this aim, the quantification of the average specific activity of ²²⁶Ra, ²³²Th, and ⁴⁰K natural and ¹³⁷Cs anthropogenic radioisotopes was addressed through the employment of High-Purity Germanium (HPGe) gamma-ray spectrometry. Furthermore, the absorbed gamma dose rate (D), the annual effective dose equivalent outdoor (AEDE_out), the external hazard index (H_ex), and the excess lifetime cancer risk (ELCR) were also calculated to evaluate the radiological hazard for humans related to external exposure to ionizing radiations. Furthermore, the average specific activity of ¹³⁷Cs was found to be less than the lowest detectable activity in all cases, excluding anthropogenic radioactive contamination of the investigated samples. Finally, Pearson correlation, principal component analysis (PCA) and hierarchical cluster analysis (HCA), i.e., multivariate statistics, were carried out by analyzing detected radioactivity and radiological characteristics to evaluate their relationship with the sampling locations. Full article

This study introduces a novel methodology for the automated co-registration and georeferencing of satellite imagery to enhance the accuracy of shoreline detection and coastal monitoring. The approach utilizes feature-based methods, cross-correlation, and RANSAC (RANdom SAmple Consensus) algorithms to accurately align images while avoiding outliers. By collectively analyzing the entire set of images and clustering them based on their pixel-pair connections, the method ensures robust transformations across the dataset. The methodology is applied to Sentinel-2 and Landsat images across four coastal sites (Duck, Narrabeen, Torrey Pines, and Truc Vert) from January 2020 to December 2023. The results show that the proposed approach effectively reduces the errors from ∼1 to at least $0.4$ px (although they are likely below $0.2$ px). This approach can enhance the precision of existing algorithms for coastal feature tracking, such as shoreline detection, and aids in differentiating georeferencing errors from the actual impacts of storms or beach nourishment activities. The tool can also handle complex cases of significant image rotation due to varied projections. The findings emphasize the importance of co-registration for reliable shoreline monitoring, with potential applications in coastal management and climate change impact studies. Full article

Coastal erosion hotspots frequently emerge in the downdrift zones of ports situated along open littoral drift seashores, often necessitating coastal protection measures. This study aims to evaluate the effectiveness of nearshore nourishment in mitigating coastal erosion using the downdrift zone of the Klaipėda Port (Baltic Sea) as a case study. In 2022, 79,390 m³ of sand was discharged at 2.0–3.5 depths at this site, forming an artificial sandbar parallel to the shoreline. The dynamics of the nourishment deposits were monitored for two years through beach and nearshore morphometric measurements and beach sand lithological composition sampling. Monitoring data indicated that the majority of the sand from the artificial sandbar migrated towards the subaerial coast, with minor depth variations also observed at depths of 4.0–5.6 m. Minor accretion in the nearshore was observed in regions beyond the designated nourishment area. The nearshore nourishment has successfully stabilised the subaerial coast at the discharge site for over two years, with 21.1% of the nourished sand accumulating on the subaerial coast and the shoreline position advancing seaward by an average of 10 metres. About 69.4% of the nourished sand remained at the nourishment site between the shoreline and the offshore boundary of the artificial sandbar, while approximately 9.5% was transported to the adjacent coast beyond the nourishment area. Full article