Search Results (336)

Background: The citrus processing industry generates over 40 million tons of waste annually, representing a significant environmental challenge. Citrus by-products are rich in bioactive compounds with proven health benefits. This study aims to upcycle citrus waste by developing green extracts and evaluating their biological activities for cosmeceutical applications. Methods: Three NaDES formulations—choline chloride–urea (ChCl: U), choline chloride–citric acid (ChCl: CA), and betaine–urea (Bet: U)—were optimized to extract polyphenols from orange and lemon waste using roller agitation. Extracts were characterized by HPLC–ESI–MS/MS. Biological activities were assessed in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Antioxidant activity was measured using a chemiluminescent assay that detects intracellular H₂O₂ production. The wound-healing potential was evaluated using scratch assays, and cytokine release (IL-6, IL-8, IL-1β, IL-10) was assessed by ELISA. DNA damage protection was evaluated by quantifying 53BP1 foci following genotoxic exposure (neocarzinostatin). Results: All NaDES extracts showed high polyphenol content, with hesperidin being the primary compound. Pretreatment with the extracts for 24 h significantly reduced intracellular H₂O₂ levels, confirming their antioxidant efficacy. In scratch assays, extracts enhanced wound closure; notably, the Bet: U-derived orange extract achieved complete closure within 48 h. All extracts increased IL-6 and IL-8 release, consistent with an early pro-regenerative response. Pretreatment with the Bet: U orange extract lowered the number of cells with high 53BP1 foci after genotoxic stress, indicating partial DNA damage protection. Conclusions: These findings highlight citrus by-product extracts as sustainable bioactive ingredients with great potential for skin repair and anti-aging formulations, promoting responsible cosmeceutical innovation. Full article

Arthrospira platensis (commonly known as Spirulina platensis) is a blue-green microalga increasingly used in skincare due to its antioxidant and dermo-protective properties, primarily attributed to components such as phycocyanin and carotenoids. However, the intense blue color of phycocyanin can limit its cosmetic appeal. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin lightening and photoprotective activity of Elixspir^®, a novel light-colored aqueous extract of Spirulina, using both 2D and 3D skin cell models. We demonstrated that Elixspir^® exerts strong antioxidant and cytoprotective effects by reducing intracellular ROS levels and modulating cellular thiol redox state. Its anti-pigmentation potential was supported by tyrosinase inhibition, while anti-inflammatory activity was principally due to ability to reduce PGE2 levels. Finally, we demonstrated an unprecedented photoprotective effect of Elixspir^®, highlighting its potential as a novel active ingredient for skin defense against environmental stressors. Overall, these results provide a molecular-level understanding of Elixspir^® multifunctional bioactivity and support its application as a skin-lightening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective ingredient in the formulation of innovative skin anti-aging treatments. Full article

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by ultraviolet (UV) radiation accelerate skin aging by activating matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. Therefore, antioxidants that can suppress ROS generation and downstream signaling cascades are considered promising anti-aging agents. In this study, five methoxyflavones were isolated from Kaempferia parviflora (black ginger) rhizomes—5,7,3′,4′-tetramethoxyflavone (1), 3,5,7,4′-tetramethoxyflavone (2), 5,7,4′-trimethoxyflavone (3), 3,5,7,3′,4′-pentamethoxyflavone (4), and 5,7-dimethoxyflavone (5)—using LC–MS-guided fractionation and identified via NMR and LC–MS analysis. Their biological activities were evaluated in tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α)-stimulated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). All methoxyflavones, except compound 3, significantly suppressed TNF-α-induced ROS generation, while compounds 3–5 markedly reduced MMP-1 secretion. Among them, compounds 4 and 5 exerted the strongest protective effects by modulating distinct MAPK pathways: compound 4 selectively inhibited p38 phosphorylation, whereas compound 5 selectively suppressed ERK phosphorylation. Both compounds attenuated ECM degradation and enhanced antioxidant defenses in a concentration-dependent manner. Collectively, these findings highlight the mechanistic significance of methoxyflavones 4 and 5 as dual-acting antioxidant and ECM-protective agents that counteract skin aging through selective regulation of MAPK signaling. Their potential as natural anti-photoaging ingredients warrants further validation in in vivo models and clinical studies for future skincare applications. Full article

This review examines the nutritional and functional potential of Acheta domesticus, the impact of fermentation on its biochemical and microbiological properties, and its application in food ingredients and products. Relevant literature was reviewed on the composition, fermentation behavior, product development, and consumer perceptions related to cricket-based ingredients, with a focus on fermented applications and microbiota interaction. Fermentation improves the safety, digestibility, flavor, and nutritional value of cricket powder. Lactic acid bacteria (e.g., Lactiplantibacillus plantarum and Latilactobacillus curvatus) enhanced substrate acidification, reduced biogenic amines and acrylamide levels, and contributed to desirable volatile compounds production. Additionally, fermentation using yeasts like Yarrowia lipolytica and Debaryomyces hansenii resulted in the production of antimicrobial substances, reduction in chitin, and an increase in the matrix digestibility. Fermented cricket-based ingredients have been successfully applied to bread, biscuits, yogurt, and beverages. Protein hydrolysates produced by fermentation exhibited antioxidant, anti-aging, and preservative properties, expanding potential beyond food. Consumer acceptance was highest when insects were integrated into familiar and visually unobtrusive food formats. To conclude, A. domesticus shows great promise as a sustainable and functional food ingredient. Fermentation offers a key strategy to overcome safety, sensory, and acceptability barriers. Full article

Actinidia arguta, also known as mini kiwi (due to its small size) or hardy kiwi (due to its frost resistance), is becoming an increasingly popular fruit alongside its commercially older siblings, i.e., A. deliciosa (green kiwi fruit) and A. chinensis (golden kiwifruit), from the Actinidiaceae family. This review paper discusses the biological and pharmacological properties of A. arguta fruits, with a special focus on methods of the bioactive component analysis. Mini kiwi is a valuable source of bioactive compounds, which contribute to its health-promoting properties, among others: antioxidant, neuroprotective, anticholinergic, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, antiobesity as well as antiatherosclerotic ones. They are briefly discussed, illustrating the action of bioactive ingredients and the methods of analysis, which are presented in the tables. This review includes a concise characterization of A. arguta and updates the current field of knowledge about its diverse biological activities, which are undoubtedly related to the content of bioactive components and the methods used for their isolation and analysis. The information included in this review paper will be helpful in perceiving mini kiwi not only as a tasty fruit but also as a source of bioactive ingredients with beneficial, health-promoting effects on the body. Effective isolation of these components can contribute to the future development of antiaging and anticancer drugs, which undoubtedly will lead to further research and promote this species. Full article

Cannabidiol (CBD) has garnered interest in its potential antioxidant properties in skin care. This review synthesizes the current literature exploring CBD’s role as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory cosmetic ingredient and its impact on skin health. CBD exhibits antioxidant effects by scavenging free radicals, reducing oxidative stress, and mitigating inflammation, all of which contribute to aging and skin conditions like acne and dermatitis. CBD interacts with the endocannabinoid system and other cellular pathways to bolster antioxidant defenses in skin cells. The search engines were Google Scholar, Scopus, and PubMed. The search was performed using the main keywords “liposomal CBD and keratinocytes”, “antioxidant properties of CBD and keratinocytes”, “anti-inflammatory activity of CBD and keratinocytes”, “CBD and cosmetics”, “CBD and skin care products”, and “CBD and cosmetic products regulation” for the period 2018–2025. The period for the search of the literature was chosen based on the legalization of medical cannabis. Its non-psychoactive nature and favorable safety profile make CBD a compelling candidate for inclusion in skin care formulations seeking natural and effective antioxidant solutions. As consumer demand for botanical-based skin care rises, CBD stands out for its promising therapeutic benefits and potential applications in anti-aging and dermatological treatments. Despite its benefits, using CBD in cosmetics is not without its challenges. The varying legal status of CBD in various jurisdictions is confusing to both the cosmetic industry and consumers. Some jurisdictions allow CBD to be derived from hemp, while others may prohibit its use. The legal and regulatory status of CBD is a constantly changing matter. The purpose of the article is to review the liposomal forms of encapsulated CBD to increase its percutaneous absorption and therefore its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effect on keratinocytes. Liposomal CBD firstly bypasses the problems of insolubility of free radicals and secondly protects it from various exogenous oxidizing agents, while maintaining its activity. CBD is a valuable antioxidant agent in skin care science, suggesting avenues for further research and product development. Full article

Peptides are recognized as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in cosmetic science, as they offer diverse beneficial effects such as skin rejuvenation, anti-aging, and skin barrier enhancement. In this study, we applied a cheminformatics-assisted peptidomimetic design platform to design novel peptides targeting heat shock protein 47 (Hsp47), a collagen-specific molecular chaperone that is downregulated during skin aging. Using molecular fingerprint similarity-based peptide design and protein–peptide docking simulations, five candidate peptides were screened, among which ICP-1225 (TY) emerged as a potent stimulator of Hsp47 and collagen (COL1A1 and COL3A1) expression in dermal fibroblasts. To improve stability and skin penetration, fatty acid-conjugated derivatives of ICP-1225 were synthesized, and acetyl-TY (ICP-1236) demonstrated the most consistent upregulation of Hsp47 and collagen in vitro. Restoration of Hsp47 protein expression and dermal collagen levels in UVB-damaged ex vivo human skin explants was also observed. These findings highlight the potential of cheminformatics-assisted peptide design in the development of next-generation cosmetic actives. ICP-1236 represents a promising anti-wrinkle candidate through the modulation of Hsp47 and collagen pathways, warranting further clinical evaluation. Full article

Fibronectin (FN) is a key mechanoresponsive glycoprotein within the extracellular matrix (ECM) that contributes to the assembly of a dynamic fibrillar network that is important for maintaining tissue structure and mediating cellular signaling. In this review, we delineate the molecular mechanisms underlying FN’s role in barrier restoration, ECM remodeling, and stem cell niche regulation, functions that inform its applications in both regenerative medicine and cosmetic science. In biomedical contexts, FN is recognized as a valuable biomarker for numerous diseases, a promising therapeutic target, and a functional component of biomedical material matrices. FN is involved throughout the skin repair process, making it a physiologically active ingredient for cosmetic anti-aging treatments, alleviating sensitive skin conditions, and enhancing cutaneous immunity. This review also addresses significant translational challenges associated with FN research, including recombinant protein production and rational peptide design, and suggests avenues for future work. Ultimately, studies on FN highlight the complexity of ECM biology and lay the groundwork for innovative approaches to advancing human health and developing new cosmetic treatments. Full article

Plant-derived extracellular vesicles (PDEVs) are rapidly gaining popularity in cosmetics and regenerative medicine due to their biocompatibility, natural origin and promising bioactive properties. Nevertheless, the absence of standardized guidelines for their characterization has resulted in an inconsistent, unregulated landscape. This compromises product reproducibility, consumer safety, and scientific credibility. Here, a comprehensive set of minimal characterization guidelines for PDEVs is proposed to include physical and chemical profiling, molecular marker identification, cargo analysis, and stability assessment under storage and formulation conditions. Functional validation through cellular uptake assays, activity tests, and advanced in vitro or ex vivo models that replicate realistic skin exposure scenarios is pivotal. Requirements for transparent labelling, reproducible sourcing, batch-to-batch consistency, and biological activity substantiation to support claims related to skin regeneration, anti-aging, and microbiome modulation are also required. By establishing a harmonized baseline for quality and efficacy evaluation, these guidelines aim to elevate the scientific standards and promote the safe, ethical, and effective use of PDEV-based ingredients in cosmetic and biomedical applications. Full article

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are multifunctional, UV-absorbing and antioxidant metabolites produced by marine algae, offering promising applications in biotechnology and dermocosmetic sciences. In this study, MAAs were sustainably extracted from nori seaweed (Porphyra spp.) using an ultrasound-assisted aqueous method, an eco-friendly approach that ensures efficiency and industrial scalability. Chromatographic enrichment followed by MALDI-TOF mass spectrometry confirmed the presence of bioactive compounds, including porphyra-334, palythine, and myc-ornithine. The enriched fraction exhibited potent antioxidant activity (low IC₅₀ in DPPH and ABTS assays) and significant anti-elastase effects, highlighting its potential as a natural anti-aging agent. To optimize delivery, MAAs were incorporated into a stable water-in-oil nanoemulsion, which maintained droplet sizes below 400 nm and a low polydispersity index (PDI < 0.2) for up to four months. A randomized, double-blind clinical study in 20 volunteers further demonstrated that the MAA-based nanoemulsion significantly improved skin hydration (+53.6%) and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), confirming its humectant and barrier-strengthening efficacy. These findings position Porphyra spp. as a sustainable marine resource for producing MAAs, and demonstrate their practical potential as natural, multifunctional ingredients in eco-conscious cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Full article

Background: Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic factors such as genetics and cellular decline, and extrinsic factors including UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle. Cosmetic or over-the-counter retinoids, particularly retinal (retinaldehyde), have shown strong efficacy in reducing photoaging signs—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation—while offering improved tolerability compared to prescription-based retinoids like all-trans retinoic acid. However, their instability in formulations and limited bioavailability when applied topically remain major challenges. Objective: This exploratory study aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of a novel mix-activated anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate formulated also with hydrophilic active ingredients—N-acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide, ascorbic acid, and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide—in improving signs of skin aging over six weeks. Methods: A prospective, single-center study was conducted with 27 healthy adults (24 female and 3 male, aged 40–69 years, 21 with skin phototype III and 6 with phototype II) exhibiting visible signs of photoaging. Participants applied the retinal concentrate once daily, mixed in a 1:2 ratio with a moisturizer before application. Objective skin parameters, including pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, texture, volume, and pore visibility, were assessed using the Antera 3D imaging system at baseline and after six weeks. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed at week six. Statistical significance was determined using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test (p < 0.05) and was corrected for multiple analyses. Results: Significant improvements were observed across all parameters: pigmentation (−12%, p < 0.0001), fine lines (−14%, p < 0.0001), wrinkle depth (−5%, p = 0.0045), skin texture (+12%, p < 0.0001), volume irregularities (−15%, p < 0.0001), and pore visibility (−24%, p < 0.0001). No significant change in redness was detected (p = 0.6664), indicating a good tolerability to the test product. Self-assessments reflected high user satisfaction: 81% reported improved skin appearance, 43% noted reduced need for makeup use, and 40% observed visible improvements already within two weeks. Conclusions: The anhydrous 0.1% retinal concentrate with hydrophilic actives significantly improved clinical signs of photoaging without causing irritation. The innovative mix-activated formulation stabilizes sensitive ingredients and enhances their efficacy, offering a novel, active, and well-tolerated approach to anti-aging skincare. Full article

Microbial fermentation diversely modulates the bioactivity of green tea extracts (GTE), but its effects on anti-aging potential remain under-explored. This study investigated the effects of liquid-state fermentation by Aspergillus niger RAF106 on the anti-aging properties of GTE from Biluochun and identified its longevity-promoting metabolites. The unfermented GTE used herein showed no or limited effects, but the four-day fermented tea extracts (GTE-A4) significantly extended the mean lifespan in Caenorhabditis elegans, enhanced motility and stress resistance, and improved mitochondrial function and antioxidant properties, while reducing lipid accumulation and oxidative damage. The pro-longevity effect depended on insulin/IGF-1, MAPK, and p53 pathways and required transcription factors DAF-16 and HSF-1. Fermentation periods shorter or longer than 4 days led to reduced efficacy. Fermentation with RAF106 dynamically altered chemical composition and induced the enrichment of various longevity-promoting metabolites in GTE-A4, including proanthocyanidin A2, aromadendrin, and dalbergioidin—all newly identified as anti-aging agents. These findings demonstrate that RAF106 fermentation improves the anti-aging potential of green tea and provides a scientific basis for using precision fermentation to develop advanced anti-aging functional ingredients from tea extracts. Full article

This study examined the cosmetic potential of extracts from the peel and pulp of fermented pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo L.). Fermentation was carried out using Lactobacillus strains (L. plantarum, L. rhamnosus, L. fermentum, and L. paracasei) and kombucha (SCOBY). Fermentation was carried out for 3 days (for lactic acid bacteria) and 10 and 20 days (for kombucha). The obtained products were analyzed by LC-MS for phytochemical composition and assessed for their antioxidant capacity (DPPH and ABTS assays) and ROS reduction in keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (HDF). The obtained ferments demonstrated cytoprotective effects (using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red assays). Both kombucha ferments and certain strains of Lactobacillus ferments demonstrated anti-aging effects (by inhibiting collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase) and anti-inflammatory effects (by significantly affecting IL-6 and IL-1β cytokine levels). A moisturizing skin toner containing the extracts and ferments was developed and tested for cytoprotective effects on HaCaT keratinocytes. The results confirm that fermented pumpkin peel and pulp extracts can be used as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients with the potential to provide antioxidant protection, anti-aging, and skin regeneration. Full article

Background: currently, there is a growing trend toward multifunctional cosmetics, which combine several active ingredients in a single product to enhance efficacy and user convenience. As ingredients may influence one another, it is important to study the behavior of mixing multiple compounds in complex formulations, especially regarding their interaction with the skin. Piceatannol, for instance, is a naturally occurring stilbene recognized for its in vitro potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging activities, making it a promising candidate for dermocosmetic use in suncare. But despite its beneficial biological activities, its cutaneous permeation remains poorly understood, particularly when delivered from complex formulations containing multiple ingredients. Objectives: in this sense, this study aimed to evaluate the in vitro skin diffusion profile of piceatannol from a passion fruit seed extract (P_ext) incorporated into a topical base (B_em) or an organic sunscreen emulsion (O_em), with or without a spilanthol-rich Acmella oleracea extract (J_ext) used as a natural permeation enhancer. Methods: due to ethical and variability issues with human and animal skins, the Strat-M™ synthetic membrane was chosen as a standardized model for the in vitro skin permeation assays. Piceatannol localization within membrane layers was examined by confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), while compound identification in donor and receptor compartments was performed via UHPLC-DAD. Results: piceatannol from B_em was detected up to 140 µm from the Strat-M™ surface and exceeded 180 µm in depth when J_ext and organic sunscreens were included in the formulation. Notably, formulations containing J_ext and those based on O_em promoted enhanced accumulation in both the stratum corneum and deeper skin layers, suggesting an improved delivery potential in lipid-rich vehicles. Conclusions: even though some instability issues were observed, piceatannol penetration into Strat-M™ from the proposed formulations was confirmed, and the results provide a foundation for further research on its topical delivery, supporting the rational development of formulations capable of harnessing its demonstrated biological properties. Full article

In this study, the cosmeceutical potential of a 70% ethanol extract of Rosa lucieae was investigated as a multifunctional bioactive ingredient. The extract was systematically evaluated for its antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-aging properties, and was comprehensively phytochemically profiled using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The analysis tentatively identified 21 metabolites, including phenolic acids (gallic acid, ellagic acid, and corilagin), flavonoids (catechin, rutin, quercetin, hyperoside, and quercitrin), and glycosidic derivatives (e.g., phlorizin), several of which are well-documented for their skin-protective effects. Quantitative measurements confirmed high polyphenol and flavonoid contents, correlating with strong radical-scavenging and reducing capacities in α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl, 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid, as well as ferric ion reducing antioxidant power assays. Moreover, the extract inhibited tyrosinase activity and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine oxidation, thereby suppressing melanin biosynthesis. In addition, marked inhibitory effects against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were observed; these enzymes are critically involved in extracellular matrix degradation and skin aging. Taken together, these results indicate that the biological activities of R. lucieae are supported by a diverse polyphenol- and flavonoid-rich chemical profile, highlighting the potential of this plant as a natural multifunctional ingredient for cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, functional food, and preventive healthcare applications. Full article