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Keywords = Bailard’s formula

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23 pages, 8893 KiB  
Article
Numerical Simulation of Hydrodynamics and Sediment Transport in the Surf and Swash Zone Using OpenFOAM®
by Ioannis Kazakis and Theophanis V. Karambas
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2023, 11(2), 446; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11020446 - 17 Feb 2023
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 4111
Abstract
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source CFD numerical tool). The numerical scheme is suitably [...] Read more.
This study focuses on the numerical investigation of the 3D hydrodynamic processes of coastal zones such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and sediment transport, using the multiphase, interFoam solver of OpenFOAM® (a state-of-the-art, open-source CFD numerical tool). The numerical scheme is suitably framed by initial conditions of wave propagation and absorption using waves2Foam wave library. The turbulence closure problem is handled using a buoyancy modified kω SST model. In order to predict the sediment transport rate due to waves and currents (bed load, sheet flow, and suspended load over ripples), a transport-rate formula involving unsteady aspects of the sand transport phenomenon is implemented. For the suspended load in the surf zone, the Bailard formula is adopted after considering that the dissipation mechanism is the wave breaking. Results concerning wave height, longshore current, turbulence kinetic energy, and sediment transport are compared against experimental data and semi-empirical expressions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Hydrodynamic Circulation Modelling in the Marine Environment)
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14 pages, 2241 KiB  
Article
The Influence of Wave Nonlinearity on Cross-Shore Sediment Transport in Coastal Zone: Experimental Investigations
by Yana Saprykina
Appl. Sci. 2020, 10(12), 4087; https://doi.org/10.3390/app10124087 - 13 Jun 2020
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 2597
Abstract
On the basis of field experiment data, the main features of influence of non-linear wave transformation scenarios on cross-shore sediment transport in coastal zones were investigated. The bottom deformations due to the non-linear wave transformation follow the specific scenario. The increase in the [...] Read more.
On the basis of field experiment data, the main features of influence of non-linear wave transformation scenarios on cross-shore sediment transport in coastal zones were investigated. The bottom deformations due to the non-linear wave transformation follow the specific scenario. The increase in the second non-linear harmonic amplitude leads to the erosion of the underwater slope at the distances corresponding to this process, with the subsequent accumulation of sandy material closer to the shore at distances where the amplitude decreases during the backward energy transfer to the first harmonic. This can be explained by the change in the phase shift between harmonics during non-linear wave transformation. The second harmonic maximum provides the point near which the bottom deformations occur in different directions. Scenarios of non-linear wave transformation in which backward energy transfer from the second non-linear harmonic to the first is close to the shoreline will contribute to the transport and accumulation of the sediment on the coast. These scenarios are more characteristic of “small waves”. The scenario without a periodical exchange of wave energy between non-linear harmonics (with an increase in the second harmonic only) that is characteristic of large storm waves and plunging breaking waves will lead to the erosion of the underwater bottom profile. Full article
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