Impact of Cosmetic and Household Products and Their Ingredients on Aquatic Fauna

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics and household products are used daily and contribute to human wellbeing and health beyond beauty aspects. Their global demand has increased over the past decades due to modern lifestyle and safety requirements (e.g., protection from UV radiation, mouth hygiene, skin or hair care, cleaning and washing agents, sanitizers). Whether they are considered as leave-on or wash-off products, cosmetics cannot be recycled like plastics or metals. Very often, they end up in wastewater streams and thus may enter the aquatic environment either indirectly or directly due to various leisure activities or inadequate wastewater management, respectively. However, the increasing pollution of various freshwater and marine (coastal) habitats has become a concern of global importance, which, beyond climate change-related aspects, puts an additional threat to aquatic life. As cosmetics are a class of products where emissions into the environment cannot be avoided, there is an urgent need to better understand their impact on aquatic life. The environmental fate and aquatic toxicity data of cosmetics and their ingredients are essential for proper aquatic hazard and risk assessments. Additionally, options to improve the environmental profile of the cosmetic ingredients and measures, aiming for the reduction of the emissions of cosmetics and beyond, would certainly contribute to a better river and coastal water quality.

This Special Issue aims to publish high-quality, novel research related to the impact of cosmetic and household products and their ingredients on aquatic fauna. This issue includes research investigating the toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and formulations on various aquatic invertebrate and vertebrate organisms (both freshwater and marine water, sediment dwellers), as well as related environmental risk assessments. The information submitted may be based on laboratory and/or field data. Furthermore, studies aiming to improve hazard profiles and reduce emissions from cosmetics and household products, their ingredients, and wastes into the aquatic environment are welcome. The submissions may comprise full research articles, short communications, or reviews reflecting the state of the art in science, providing guidance for further research needs or suggesting practical measures to better manage the emissions of cosmetics into the aquatic environment.

Dr. Sascha Pawlowski
Dr. Laura H. Luetjens
Dr. Mechtild Petersen-Thiery
Guest Editors

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• cosmetic and household products
• cosmetic and household ingredients
• marine and freshwater toxicity
• aquatic risk assessment

Title: Towards the Development of Standard Toxicity Test Protocols for Identifying the Negative Effects of Stressors on the Biodiversity of Coral Ecosystems
Authors: Guido Gonsior; Sara P. Cuellar-Bermudez; Susanne Knörr; Gundula Gonsior; Maren Dill
Affiliation: GG BioTech Design GmbH, Homberg (Ohm), Germany
Abstract: It is very apparent that climate change significantly affects most ecosystems resulting in potentially dramatic changes of food webs. Further, chemical pollutants affect ecosystems in a significant way. One of the most endangered ecosystems are coral reefs. The risk assessment which is generally performed for any registration of chemical products did not cover corals in the past. Ecotoxicological research on corals is useful for assessing potential risks and simulating impacts under laboratory conditions. Building new test systems which can quantify potential risks to the environment is an important tool for avoiding biological breakdown in a multicomplex system. We are currently working on new test methods and the identification of suitable test species to assess ecotoxicological risks to coral reefs. Up to now, special focus has been given to the effects of skincare chemicals on corals. But there is still a knowledge deficit in identifying and quantifying risks. First research on the effects of UV-filters started. However, for the generation of reliable and comparable toxicity endpoints it is essential to develop a standard toxicity test protocol. For risk assessment larvae or nubbins (branch tips consisting of several polyps) can be used. Beside acute testing also long-term tests using growth parameters can be performed under lab conditions. Studies showed that in case of extended test durations up to 1-2 months endpoints could be assessed on growth rates and yields based on fresh weight, polyp number or total length of corals. However, the first approach should be the identification of acute toxicity. And in case effects on corals could be determined in acute tests a further testing strategy including growth parameters might be needed to address higher TIER questions. We present data of an acute testing with focus on toxicity on the zooxanthellae (symbiotic algae). First results indicate that toxicity seems to be higher on algae living in symbiosis with corals than on solitary living algae or macrophytes. We are working on a testing strategy in order to cover the increased sensitivity of corals compared to standard species. Beside the data of an acute short-term testing, we discuss data of a higher tier long term testing and finally end with a proposed microcosm study design. For risk assessment based on long term testing, growth rates and yield (e.g. length and biomass), necrosis (loss of tissue) and coral bleaching could be assessed. These growth parameters which are based on metric data will assist in refining risk assessments. Toxic endpoints that are based on visual observations such as necrosis, bleaching, polyp contraction, change in color, loss of tissue and mucous formation can also be determined. In a microcosm study endpoints can be combined to refine risk assessment. Further, parameter including light intensity, pH, temperature, salinity, alkalinity, calcium-, nitrate- and phosphate concentrations should be determined. We screen coral species of interest for ecotoxicological testing with a focus on doubling biomass during the test period, which is essential to evaluate effects on growth. Besides growth rates, the species needs to be relevant, widespread, and sensitive and the coefficient of variation (CV) for the control group should be as low as possible.