Development, Characterization, and Stability Evaluation of the Anti-Cellulite Emgel Containing Herbal Extracts and Essential Oils

Recently, the herbal compress was successfully developed and applied for cellulite treatment. The aim of this study was to formulate a more convenient dosage form of herbal application from the original formula. In addition, we aimed to characterize and evaluate the stability of the developed dosage form. A gelled emulsion, or an “emgel,” incorporated with 0.1 wt% tea and coffee extracts (1:1 ratio) plus 5 wt% essential oils (mixed oil) was prepared. The caffeine content in the finished product obtained from tea and coffee extracts analyzed by HPLC was 48.1 ± 2.3 µg/g. The bio-active marker monoterpenes of mixed oil characterized by headspace GCMS were camphene 50.8 ± 1.8 µg/mg, camphor 251.0 ± 3.2 µg/mg, 3-carene 46.7 ± 1.8 µg/mg, α-citral 75.0 ± 2.1 µg/mg, β-citral 65.6 ± 1.3 µg/mg, limonene 36.8 ± 6.7 µg/mg, myrcene 53.3 ± 4.5 µg/mg, α-pinene 85.2 ± 0.6 µg/mg, β-pinene 88.4 ± 1.1 µg/mg, and terpinene-4-ol 104.3 ± 2.6 µg/mg. The stability study was carried out over a period of 3 months at 4, 25, and 50 °C. The caffeine content showed no significant changes and passed the acceptance criteria of ≥80% at all tested temperatures. However, monoterpenes showed their stability for only 2 months at 50 °C. Therefore, the shelf-life of the emgel was, consequently, calculated to be 31 months using the Q10 method. Thus, the anti-cellulite emgel was successfully formulated. The characterization methods and stability evaluation for caffeine and monoterpenes in an emgel matrix were also successfully developed and validated.


Introduction
Cellulite, popularly called orange peel skin, affects mostly women and is found in more than 80% of women of post-pubertal age, which can be treated either medically or cosmetically to enhance the appearance of this issue [1]. Natural ingredients are preferable in cosmetic treatment due to their safety image [2]. Several studies have shown that various natural components are clinically effective [3][4][5][6]. These indicate that plants are a particularly rich source of providing components for cellulite treatment. Previously, anti-cellulite treatment by applying a warmed traditional herbal compress comprising aromatic herbs, i.e., ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe), black pepper (Piper nigrum L.), java Many active ingredients from medicinal plants, primarily in the form of standardized botanical extracts, can act synergistically on various biological targets and improve unwanted signs and symptoms [15]. The main ingredients of this formulation were mixed essential oils from well-documented anti-inflammatory and anti-lipogenesis or lipolysis herbs used in our herbal compress, such as ginger [16,17], black pepper [18,19], java long pepper [20,21], and lemon grass [22,23], and water extracts of tea [24,25] and coffee [26,27].
Anti-cellulite emgels were formulated by using a carbomer (Carbopol 940) combined with an emulsion to create a delivery base for hydrophobic substances. The carbomer-toemulsion ratio was optimized to accommodate the hydrophobic actives. A mixture of seven essential oils of herbal ingredients in the compress (mixed oil) and tea and coffee extracts were chosen as active ingredients of the anti-cellulite formulation. The problem of water insolubility, high volatility, and instability of the short-chain hydrocarbon molecules of the essential oils (e.g., α-pinene, camphene, myrcene, and terpinen-4-ol), being incompatible with the emulsion droplets in the formulation [28], was resolved by introducing a carrier oil with a long lipid tail into the emulsion system as a diluent for the essential oils. The carrier oil also enhanced the viscosity of the oil combination and promoted the development of the emulsion. The carrier oil for this emulsion system was virgin cold-pressed rice bran oil. This mixed oil and two extracts were successfully incorporated into the preliminary developed stable emgel base. The formulation is shown in Table 1.
Texture, color, odor, pH (at 25 • C), and viscosity (spindle no. 5, 20 rpm, 25 • C) of the formulation were observed during the stability tests. Measurements were taken before and after 24 days of storage at 4 • C, followed by six cycles of heating and cooling at 4 and 45 • C for 48 h per cycle. A formulation kept at 25 • C was used as a control.

Linearity
The range of linearity of the 10 constituents with their LOD and LOQ are shown in Table 3. The r 2 for the calibration curves for all compounds was >0.990. For all substances, the signals were linear over concentration ranges, suggesting that the method was appropriate for analyzing these compounds in the same sample.

Linearity
The range of linearity of the 10 constituents with their LOD and LOQ are shown in Table 3. The r 2 for the calibration curves for all compounds was >0.990. For all substances, the signals were linear over concentration ranges, suggesting that the method was appropriate for analyzing these compounds in the same sample.

Precision and Accuracy
Intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy at three concentrations were studied. Both precision and accuracy were within reasonable limits (%RSD was less than 15%, and percentage accuracy was between 85 and 110%) [31] (Table 4). Table 4. Intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy of the HS-GCMS method for determination of 10 monoterpenoid standards assessed at three different concentration levels (n = 3) on three consecutive days. Accuracy was expressed as the percentage recovery of 10 monoterpenoid standards in three different concentrations in the placebo emgel.

HPLC Method Validation
The HPLC method for determination of caffeine was developed and validated according to ICH guidelines.

Selectivity
Separation was done on a C18 column with isocratic elution of 40% methanol in water. The tailing factor and resolution of the caffeine standard met ICH guidelines. The identification of caffeine in the sample was confirmed with the retention time of the caffeine standard ( Figure 2).

Linearity
The calibration equations, linearity, limit of detection (LOD), and limit of quantitation (LOQ) values are presented in Table 5. The HPLC chromatograms of the caffeine standard, placebo, and anti-cellulite emgel are shown in Figure 2A-C. Separation was done on a C18 column with isocratic elution of 40% methanol in water. The tailing factor and resolution of the caffeine standard met ICH guidelines. The identification of caffeine in the sample was confirmed with the retention time of the caffeine standard (Figure 2).

Linearity
The calibration equations, linearity, limit of detection (LOD), and limit of quantitation (LOQ) values are presented in Table 5. The HPLC chromatograms of the caffeine standard, placebo, and anti-cellulite emgel are shown in Figure 2A-C.

Precision and Accuracy
Intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy at three concentrations were determined. Both precision and accuracy were within reasonable limits (% RSD was less than 15%, and percentage accuracy was between 85 and 110%) (AOAC, 2012). (Table 6. The %RSD, which reflected the intra-day and inter-day precision of the caffeine standard, was not more than 2.5%. Table 6. Intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy of the HPLC method for determination of the caffeine standard assessed at two different concentration levels (n = 3) on three consecutive days. Accuracy was expressed as the percentage recovery of the caffeine standard at two different concentrations in the coffee extract.  The accuracy was determined by spiking the two different concentrations of caffeine standard (1.8 and 7.5 ppm) at 0.1 mg/mL of coffee extract. Recovery in the range of 98-103 (%RSD ≤ 6.32%) was obtained. All data are shown in Table 6.

Quantitation of Constituents of Interest in the Anti-Cellulite Emgel Using HS-GCMS
The 10 constituents of interest were analyzed in the anti-cellulite emgel by HS-GCMS (SIM) ( Table 7). The major monoterpene in the formula was camphor (251.0 µg/mg). Table 7. The contents of 10 monoterpenoid constituents in the anti-cellulite emgel analyzed by HS-GCMS (n = 3).

Anti-Cellulite Emgel
Monoterpenoids Presented in the Formulation (µg/mg) Average ± S.D. The caffeine concentrations of coffee, tea, and anti-cellulite emgel were analyzed by HPLC. For the anti-cellulite emgel, a content of 0.05% of each tea and coffee extract in the formulation contained approximately 1% of caffeine (Table 8). Table 8. The content of caffeine in the anti-cellulite emgel was analyzed by HPLC (n = 3).

Physical Stability of the Anti-Cellulite Emgel
Physical stability is important to consider while maintaining lipophilic chemicals in emulsion formulae and subsequently in cosmetic products to prevent or mitigate deterioration during storage. The anti-cellulite emgel was evaluated for qualities such as color, odor, pH, viscosity, and phase separation. The anti-cellulite emgel had a homogeneous texture with a buttermilk color and a characteristic odor of herbal essential oils. After storage for 12 weeks (Table 9), the physical properties of the anti-cellulite emgel remained similar to baseline, while after a heating-cooling stability study and after storage at 50 • C for 3 months, there was only a minor change in the appearance of the anti-cellulite emgel. Table 9. The physical stability of the anti-cellulite emgel at initiation day and after being stored at 4 • C, 25 • C, and 50 • C for 3 months and after 6 heating-cooling cycles.

Chemical Stability Evaluation Using GCMS and HPLC
The active monoterpenoids and caffeine in the anti-cellulite emgel were determined using our validated HS-GCMS and HPLC methods. The anti-cellulite emgel was stored for 12 weeks at 4 • C, room temperature, 50 • C.
After 8 weeks storage at 50 • C, the active monoterpenoids in the emgel formulation retained more than 80% of the initiation concentration (Figure 3), whereas caffeine retained more than 80% after 12 weeks (Figure 3).

Microbiological Stability Evaluation
The durability of preservatives is a critical element in ensuring microbial efficiency. To demonstrate microbiological stability, we conducted a preservation challenge test. Our

Microbiological Stability Evaluation
The durability of preservatives is a critical element in ensuring microbial efficiency. To demonstrate microbiological stability, we conducted a preservation challenge test. Our results, shown in Table 10, indicate the acceptance criteria required by the method for acceptability in each time (day 0, day 7, day 14, and day 28). The anti-cellulite emgel was resistant to microbial proliferation, which could pose a risk if used improperly.

Calculation of Monoterpenoids and Caffeine Accelerated Shelf Life by the Q10 Method
The accelerated stability test, which predicts the potential behavior of the anti-cellulite emgel, was quite informative. The shelf life of the anti-cellulite emgel was calculated using the Q10 equation [32,33], which is considered a cornerstone in estimating the storage life of monoterpenoids with heat-sensitive degradation. The storage life of the monoterpenoids in the anti-cellulite emgel was estimated to be 31 months, while that of caffeine was 46 months in the same concentration of the anti-cellulite herbal emgel.

Essential Oils and Extracts
Essential oils of ginger, black pepper, java long pepper, plai, turmeric, lemon grass, and kaffir lime were purchased from Thai-China Flavours and Fragrances Industry Co., Ltd. (Ayutthaya, Thailand). They were mixed in a ratio equivalent to the composition of the herbs used in the herbal compress formula [13] and called a "mixed oil." Tea of the Three Horses brand and roasted coffee of the Arabica 100% Coffman brand were purchased in Phitsanulok, Thailand. Ground tea leaves and coffee beans were separately extracted with boiling water for 20 min. After filtration and 5 min of centrifuging, the aqueous solutions were lyophilized to obtain tea and coffee extracts, which were then stored at −20 • C until use.

Preparation of the Anti-Cellulite Emgel
The anti-cellulite emgel was composed of 5% mixed oil, 5% camphor, 0.05% tea extract, and 0.05% coffee extract. The other ingredients and their functions are listed in Table 11. Camphor was dissolved in the mixed oil, while tea and coffee extracts were added to the carbopol gel and mixed with other ingredients, resulting in the formation of an emgel. The base sample (without the mixed oil) was prepared with similar materials and under identical conditions for formulation.

Headspace Gas Chromatography/Mass Spectrometry (HS-GCMS) and High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Analyses
The HS-GCMS and HPLC methods for determination of chemical ingredients in the anti-cellulite emgel were developed and validated in terms of the limit of detection (LOD), limit of quantitation (LOQ), linearity, accuracy, and precision [31]. A placebo emgel was used as a blank sample.

HS-GCMS Instruments and Chromatographic Conditions
HS analysis was performed using the Agilent G4556-64000 network. The HS auto sampler Agilent PN 7697A was used to directly introduce samples automatically into the Agilent 7890B Gas Chromatography System-5977B MSD model mass spectrometer. After the vials were pressurized with carrier gas, the emgel HS samples were injected into an HP-5 capillary column (5% phenyl methyl silox) (30 m × 250 µm × 0.25 µm; Agilent 19091S-433). The carrier gas was helium (He) with a constant flow rate of 1.3 mL/min. The GC oven temperature was initially set at 70 • C for 3 min, then increased to 100 • C at a rate of 3 • C/min and held for 3 min, and then increased to 250 • C at a rate of 20 • C/min and held for 1 min, with a total run time of 22 min. Mass spectrometry analysis was carried out using an Agilent mass selective detector model 5977B MSD coupled with the gas chromatograph in selected ion mode (SIM) of specific m/z ratios for each of the 10 compounds and one internal standard. The mass spectrometer was operated in electron impact ionization mode (70 eV) with a scan range of 50 to 550 amu.

HS-GCMS Method Validation
The method was validated according to ICH guidelines by determining linearity, LOD, LOQ, precision, and accuracy. The calibration curves were obtained with the average of peak area ratios of three replicates. To find the correlation coefficient (r 2 ) value, six concentration levels of standard solutions were analyzed. Precision was determined using the repeatability between 6 replicate samples of the placebo emgel and spiked with the concentrations of QC1, QC2, and QC3 of the calibration curve and reported as a coefficient of variation (percentage). The accuracy was calculated as the percentage recovery from three replicates of samples spiked with the same concentration that was used for the determination of precision. Intra-day and inter-day precision and accuracy were performed at three concentrations.
For preparing the validation samples, 1 mg of a blank matrix (placebo emgel) and a blank sample (blank vial) were spiked with the internal standard and prepared in a headspace vial of 20 mL and then injected into each batch of samples to demonstrate that there was no cross-contamination and interference during the analysis.

Qualitative Analyses of Constituents in the Anti-Cellulite Emgel Using the HS-GCMS Method
Volatile compounds of the anti-cellulite emgel were analyzed by using the HS-GCMS method, stated above, and identified by comparing their spectra and retention times to those of the standard compounds or to those of the NIST MS search 2.2 library, in addition to comparison with their GC Kováts retention indices (RIs) from the literature. The linear RIs for all components were determined by co-injecting the samples with a solution containing the homologous series of n-alkanes (C8-C20). Caffeine was identified by the retention time of the standard compound.

HPLC Instruments and Chromatographic Conditions
Chromatographic analysis was performed using a Shimadzu SCL-10A HPLC system equipped with a Shimadzu SPD-10A UV/Vis detector, an LC-10AT pump, SIL-20AC HT auto-samplers, and a CTO-10ASVP column oven. Chromatographic separation was performed on a Phenomenex Synergi 4u Hydro-RP 80A column (150 × 4.60 mm, 4 µm particle size) connected to a Phenomenex C18 (10 × 4.6 mm, 5 µm) guard column that maintained the temperature at 35 • C. The isocratic mobile phase was methanol and water (40:60 v/v) at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. The injection volume was 10 µL, and the eluates were monitored at 275 nm. The total run time was 8 min.

HPLC Method Validation
The method was validated according to ICH guidelines by determining linearity, LOD, LOQ, precision, and accuracy. The linearity range of the standards was determined on seven concentration levels that ranged from 0.3125 to 20 µg/mL. Calibration curves were measured on every analysis day, and each sample was determined in triplicate. The standard curves were plotted by areas under the curve of the caffeine standard. The linearity of the calibration curve was assessed by calculating the coefficient of determination (r 2 ). The LOD and LOQ under the present chromatographic conditions were determined by injecting the standard solutions until the signal-to-noise ratio of each compound was 3 for LOD and 10 for LOQ. The intra-day precision of the method was analyzed from the measurement of two concentration levels of caffeine for six times within 1 day. Precision is represented by the relative standard deviation (%RSD) calculated by standard deviation/mean × 100. Inter-day precision was validated by measuring the %RSD for three consecutive days at two concentration levels, 1.875 and 7.5 µg/mL (n = 3, each level). The accuracy and recovery were determined by spiking the known concentration of the standard solution with the coffee extract to obtain two different concentrations (1.875 and 7.5 µg/mL). These experiments were done in triplicate. The accuracy is presented as percentage recovery of the spiked concentration, which was calculated as [(measured standard concentrationstandard concentration in the non-spiked sample)/standard concentration spiked] × 100.

Caffeine Standard Solutions for the HPLC Method
The stock solution of the caffeine standard was freshly prepared by dissolving it in methanol to obtain a concentration of 10 mg/mL. This solution was further diluted with water to create standard calibration curves, LOD, and LOQ. The solutions were then filtered through nylon syringe filters with a 0.45 µm pore size.

Determination of Marker Compounds in the Anti-Cellulite Emgel by HS-GCMS and HPLC
Ten monoterpenoids in the anti-cellulite emgel were quantitatively determined by HS-GCMS, and caffeine was analyzed by HPLC analysis.

Sample Preparation for HS-GCMS
A 1 mg sample of the anti-cellulite emgel was weighed in an HS vial of 20 mL and covered with an aluminum crimp cap with a silicon septum. Next, 10 µL of the internal standard was added to each sample vial.

Sample Preparation for HPLC
A 20 mg sample of the anti-cellulite emgel was weighed in a vial of 1.5 mL, dissolved in methanol, and then vortexed for 1 min. The sample solution was filtered through nylon syringe filters with a 0.45 µm pore size.

Accelerated Stability Study of the Anti-Cellulite Emgel
The anti-cellulite emgel was stored at ambient temperature, 4 • C (±2 • C), and 50 • C (±2 • C). The physical properties, including color, odor, pH, viscosity, and phase separation, as well as chemical markers were determined every 2 weeks for 12 weeks. The heatingcooling cycle test was performed by alternating conditions between 4 • C (±2 • C) for 48 h and 45 • C (±2 • C) for 48 h of each cycle for 6 cycles. The studies were conducted in triplicate.

Shelf Life Prediction by the Q10 Method
The Q10 approach is a tool for forecasting the product shelf life. It is assumed that the ratio of times to equal harm at two temperatures, which are usually 10 • C apart, is constant [32][33][34]. The shelf life of the anti-cellulite emgel at 25 • C was calculated using the following equation: where t 80 (T2) denotes the shelf life at 25 • C and t 80 (T1) denotes the shelf life at 50 • C.

Microbial Stability Studies
Microbial testing of the anti-cellulite emgel was carried out using a preservation test with the plate method. Five types of microorganisms, i.e., Staphylococcus aureus TISTR 1466, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 25783, Escherichia coli ATCC 25922, Candida albicans ATCC 10231, and Aspergillus niger, were added to the anti-cellulite emgel formulation. The criteria of acceptance and the consideration of preservative stability were measured according to USP 29 Chapter 51 Antimicrobial Effectiveness [35].

Statistical Analysis for Quality Control Studies
Data were expressed as the average ± standard deviation (SD). Statistical analysis was conducted using analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Student's t-test using GraphPad.

Conclusions
An anti-cellulite herbal emgel of smooth texture with pH 6.89 ± 0.02 was successfully formulated. HS-GCMS and HPLC methods were developed and validated to quantitatively determine the monoterpenoid and caffeine constituents in the formulation, respectively. The emgel was physically stable up to 3-month storage at 4 • C, room temperature, and 50 • C. The caffeine content showed no significant changes and passed the acceptance criteria of ≥80% at all temperature tests, while monoterpenes showed some degree of degradation at