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Cosmetics 2017, 4(4), 50; doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040050

Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient

LAQV/REQUIMTE (Rede de Química e Tecnologia), Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, Rua de Jorge Viterbo Ferreira, 228, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
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Received: 25 October 2017 / Revised: 17 November 2017 / Accepted: 20 November 2017 / Published: 24 November 2017
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plant Extracts in Skin Care Products)
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Abstract

Castanea sativa fruit processing generates high amounts of by-products, mostly bur. Currently, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in natural extracts as antioxidant sources. In the present study, C. sativa bur extract was used as the active ingredient, in different amounts, in topical hydrogels. The formulations were characterized regarding total phenolic and flavonoid contents (TPC and TFC, respectively), antioxidant activity (DPPH radical scavenging capacity and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)) and technological and microbiological properties. The same parameters were evaluated after 30 days of storage at 4 °C (T30/4 °C) and 20 °C (T30/20 °C). At time 0 (T0), the TPC ranged between 0.79 and 9.65 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g gel, while TFC varied from 0.05 to 1.23 mg of catechin equivalents (CAE)/g gel. Antioxidant activity was high for both assays, with values at T0 ranging between 98.41 and 1013.43 µmol of ferrous sulphate equivalents (FSE)/g gel and varying between 431.96 and 990.84 µg of Trolox equivalents (TE)/g gel for FRAP and DPPH assays, respectively. No formulation exceeded the defined criteria in microbiological counts. All formulations showed similar technological profiles but particular attention should be given to pH. The gel with 50% of extract (F3) was selected as the best one for potential cosmetic applications. View Full-Text
Keywords: Castanea sativa bur; chestnut by-product; antioxidants; skin-oxidative stress; hydrogels Castanea sativa bur; chestnut by-product; antioxidants; skin-oxidative stress; hydrogels
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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. (CC BY 4.0).

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MDPI and ACS Style

Pinto, D.; Braga, N.; Rodrigues, F.; Oliveira, M.B.P.P. Castanea sativa Bur: An Undervalued By-Product but a Promising Cosmetic Ingredient. Cosmetics 2017, 4, 50.

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