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Cosmetics 2014, 1(1), 14-28; doi:10.3390/cosmetics1010014

Bio-Guided Targeting for Preservative and Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Ingredient Development

ICOA, Université d'Orléans, CNRS, UMR 7311, Orléans F-45067, France
LVMH Recherche Parfums et Cosmétiques, Saint Jean de Braye 45800, France
GLYcoDIAG, Université d'Orléans, Orléans Cedex 2 45067, France
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Received: 25 September 2013 / Revised: 16 December 2013 / Accepted: 23 December 2013 / Published: 2 January 2014
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Analytical Methods for Quality Control of Cosmetics)
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To develop a new antioxidant, antibacterial and natural cosmetic ingredient without cytotoxicity to skin cells, bioactive molecules contained in Kalanchoe pinnata leaf methanolic extract were targeted using semi-preparative HPLC fractionation linked to biological activity tests. Chromatographic effluent was collected at the column outlet into a 96 deep-well microplate, filling successively all the wells. After freeze-drying, the microplate was ready to use for different biological tests such as antimicrobial activity on microorganisms, skin cell viability and antioxidant activity on human keratinocyte cells. The injection of only 2.64 mg of crude extract into the HPLC system reveals a good correlation between the chromatographic peaks and the different biological activities. One fraction is mainly of interest since good antibacterial and antioxidant activities without cytotoxicity are observed. The analysis of this fraction using mass spectrometry allows the identification of glycoside derivatives of quercetin, isorhamnetin and kaempferol. Thus, a correlation between biological activity and the presence of these flavonoids is obtained. This screening method allows a rapid fractionation associated with a biological activity evaluation and a first molecular identification, saving time by limiting sample treatments and solvent consumption. View Full-Text
Keywords: Bryophyllum pinnatum; semi-preparative HPLC fractionation; microorganisms; human keratinocytes; cytotoxicity; mass spectrometry Bryophyllum pinnatum; semi-preparative HPLC fractionation; microorganisms; human keratinocytes; cytotoxicity; mass spectrometry

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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY 3.0).

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MDPI and ACS Style

Destandau, E.; Krolikiewicz-Renimel, I.; El Abdellaoui, S.; Cancellieri, P.; Fougère, L.; Toribio, A.; Landemarre, L.; André, P.; Elfakir, C. Bio-Guided Targeting for Preservative and Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Ingredient Development. Cosmetics 2014, 1, 14-28.

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