Next Article in Journal
Geovisualization of Mercury Contamination in Lake St. Clair Sediments
Next Article in Special Issue
Dynamics of Small-Scale Topographic Heterogeneity in European Sandy Salt Marshes
Previous Article in Journal
Port Simulation Modelling and Economic Assessment
Previous Article in Special Issue
Natural and Human-Induced Dynamics on Big Hickory Island, Florida
Article Menu

Export Article

Open AccessArticle
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4(1), 15; doi:10.3390/jmse4010015

On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles

1
Marine and Coastal Systems, Deltares, PO Box 177, 2600 MH, Delft, The Netherlands
2
Hydraulic Engineering Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, PO Box 5048, 2600 GA, Delft, The Netherlands
3
Department of Physical Geography, Faculty of Geosciences, Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Utrecht University, PO Box 80115, 3508 TC, Utrecht, The Netherlands
These authors contributed equally to this work.
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Academic Editor: Dong-Sheng Jeng
Received: 4 December 2015 / Revised: 31 January 2016 / Accepted: 3 February 2016 / Published: 25 February 2016
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Morphodynamics)
View Full-Text   |   Download PDF [11499 KB, uploaded 25 February 2016]   |  

Abstract

Inter-annual bar dynamics may vary considerably across sites with very similar environmental settings. In particular, the variability of the bar cycle return period (Tr) may differ by a factor of 3 to 4. To date, data studies are only partially successful in explaining differences in Tr, establishing at best weak correlations to local environmental characteristics. Here, we use a process-based forward model to investigate the non-linear interactions between the hydrodynamic forcing and the morphodynamic profile response for two sites along the Dutch coast (Noordwijk and Egmond) that despite strong similarity in environmental conditions exhibit distinctly different Tr values. Our exploratory modeling enables a consistent investigation of the role of specific parameters at a level of detail that cannot be achieved from observations alone, and provides insights into the mechanisms that govern Tr. The results reveal that the bed slope in the barred zone is the most important parameter governing Tr. As a bar migrates further offshore, a steeper slope results in a stronger relative increase in the water depth above the bar crest which reduces wave breaking and in turn reduces the offshore migration rate. The deceleration of the offshore migration rate as the bar moves to deeper water—the morphodynamic feedback loop—contrasts with the initial enhanced offshore migration behavior of the bar. The initial behavior is determined by the intense wave breaking associated with the steeper profile slope. This explains the counter-intuitive observations at Egmond where Tr is significantly longer than at Noordwijk despite Egmond having the more energetic wave climate which typically reduces Tr. View Full-Text
Keywords: morphodynamic feedback loop; Egmond; Noordwijk; inter-annual bar dynamics; process based modeling; Unibest-TC; sandbars; bar switch; morphodynamic modeling; cyclic bar behavior; Jarkus morphodynamic feedback loop; Egmond; Noordwijk; inter-annual bar dynamics; process based modeling; Unibest-TC; sandbars; bar switch; morphodynamic modeling; cyclic bar behavior; Jarkus
Figures

Figure 1

This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. (CC BY 4.0).

Scifeed alert for new publications

Never miss any articles matching your research from any publisher
  • Get alerts for new papers matching your research
  • Find out the new papers from selected authors
  • Updated daily for 49'000+ journals and 6000+ publishers
  • Define your Scifeed now

SciFeed Share & Cite This Article

MDPI and ACS Style

Walstra, D.-J.R.; Wesselman, D.A.; van der Deijl, E.C.; Ruessink, G. On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2016, 4, 15.

Show more citation formats Show less citations formats

Note that from the first issue of 2016, MDPI journals use article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Related Articles

Article Metrics

Article Access Statistics

1

Comments

[Return to top]
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. EISSN 2077-1312 Published by MDPI AG, Basel, Switzerland RSS E-Mail Table of Contents Alert
Back to Top