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• Lin, C
• Yang, C
• Chang, N
• Wu, P
• Chen, Y
• Lee, S
• Chen, C
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• Yang, C
• Chang, N
• Wu, P
• Chen, Y
• Lee, S
• Chen, C
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• Yang, C
• Chang, N
• Wu, P
• Chen, Y
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• Chen, C

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Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2011, 12(9), 5946-5954; doi:10.3390/ijms12095946

Article

Study on the Stability of DeoxyArbutin in an Anhydrous Emulsion Systemy

Chih-Chien Lin ^1,* , Chao-Hsun Yang ¹ , Nai-Fang Chang ¹ , Pey-Shiuan Wu ¹ , Yi-Shyan Chen ¹ , Shu-Mei Lee ²  and Chiu-Wen Chen ¹

¹ Department of Cosmetic Science, Providence University, 200 Chung-Chi Road, Shalu, Taichung 43301, Taiwan ² Department of Cosmetic Science and Management, Mackay Medicine, Nursing and Management College, 92 Shengjing Road, Beitou, Taipei 11260, Taiwan

* Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.

Received: 3 August 2011; in revised form: 1 September 2011 / Accepted: 7 September 2011 / Published: 15 September 2011

(This article belongs to the Section Bioactives and Nutraceuticals)

Download PDF Full-Text [507 KB, uploaded 15 September 2011 13:43 CEST]

Abstract: The skin-whitening agent, deoxyArbutin, is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that is safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. However, it is thermolabile in aqueous solutions, where it decomposes to hydroquinone. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic emulsions are normally oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) systems; however, emulsions can be formulated with no aqueous phase to produce an anhydrous emulsion system. An anhydrous emulsion system could offer a stable vehicle for compounds that are sensitive to hydrolysis or oxidation. Therefore, to enhance the stability of deoxyArbutin in formulations, we chose the polyol-in-silicone, anhydrous emulsion system as the basic formulation for investigation. The quantity of deoxyArbutin and the accumulation of hydroquinone in both hydrous and anhydrous emulsions at various temperatures were analyzed through an established high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicated that water increased the decomposition of deoxyArbutin in the formulations and that the polyol-in-silicone, oil-based, anhydrous emulsion system provided a relatively stable surrounding for the deoxyArbutin that delayed its degradation at 25 °C and 45 °C. Moreover, the composition of the inner hydrophilic phase, containing different amounts of glycerin and propylene glycol, affected the stability of deoxyArbutin. Thus, these results will be beneficial when using deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines in the future.

Keywords: anhydrous emulsion system; deoxyArbutin; hydroquinone; skin whitening; stability

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